Cooperative Camping

Many years ago, I was the laughingstock of my family when I bought a new coat (however divine) in a New York City department store at retail! There I was, paying full price, smack in the middle of the garment capital of the world, where people with an ounce of sense bought only at wholesale (from the hundreds of small apparel factories which then existed in midtown Manhattan). It was a major fashion faux pas that you don't have to make. Although those factories have long since decamped to North and South Carolina (and from there to Asia), their showrooms - there are still hundreds of them - have scads of samples, closeouts, discontinued lines, leftovers, and seconds that they sell periodically, at drastic cuts, to the nation's sharpest shoppers. Let me assure you that the "wholesale" tradition is alive and well in New York, and waiting for you. The semipermanent showrooms The garment industry/fashion district is mainly found on the west side of midtown Manhattan from Fifth to Tenth Avenues between 32nd and 42nd Streets, where entire buildings house one showroom after another. On a daily basis, these are not open to the public, but on a good weekday (most are closed on weekends) you can walk up Broadway or Seventh Avenue and be handed at least ten fliers inviting you to "showroom sales." Recently, I followed the paper trail to a warren of rooms in the basement of 1410 Broadway and found a pair of Easy Spirit shoes in just my size for $19.99 (they are usually priced around $60). Better than this hit-or-miss approach is a knowledge of the permanent and always-open venues (displaying manufacturers' discontinued lines and seconds) that almost always have high-quality fashions at rock-bottom prices. One such warehouse/showroom is A Nice Price/SSS Sample Sale (261 W. 36th Street, 2nd floor, fax 212/947-8748, clothingline.com), a quirky loft that's been running stock and sample sales for over ten years and can be a genuine gold mine if you're lucky. Its most recent highlights: Betsey Johnson's latest dresses and skirts, plus remainders from the rest of her line, all 60 percent off retail; White + Warren cashmere sweaters for $50; the hot Essendi line greatly reduced, with tanks that retail at $130 now $27 and turtlenecks that retail for as much as $160 now just $40; and Maxou velvet skirts retailing at $170 and up, now $5. They also occasionally have some bargains for men. Staley/Gretzinger (270 West 38th Street, 5th floor, tel. 212/764-3982) is another permanent showroom that's open on the first Friday of every month and by appointment at all other times. Funky, hand-painted, appliqu,, and one-of-a-kind items suited for the bohemians among us are available at 50 percent off retail; samples are discounted up to 70 percent. This entire line, from sportswear to relaxed evening wear, is manufactured in the United States at factories on 38th Street and in Wappingers Falls, New York. Labels include Bread, MadLab, and Staley/Gretzinger. The Find Outlet, a little off the beaten track at 361 West 17th Street at Ninth Avenue (212/243-3177), is the crown jewel of discount outlets, offering perfect gems of this season's special items including Martine Sitbon, Anna Sui, Daryl K, Tocca, and Stephane Kelian shoes, all 50 to 80 percent less than retail. Recently, I nabbed a cashmere sweater at 60 percent off its price at Barneys where I had seen it that same day. It's true that Find features top-quality items that start out on the expensive side and are not cheap even at half off. But if you are fashion conscious and into elegant things, this refined version of a warehouse is the place for you. It's open Thursday through Sunday, from noon to 7 p.m. For guys and brides The gents will be interested in places like Prato (28 West 34th Street, 212/629-4730), packed to the rafters with heavily discounted designer shirts, suits, coats, and casual wear. Yves Saint Laurent shirts, once $48, are now $19.99, while $38 Pierre Cardin shirts are $15. You can find a Bill Blass sweater for as little as $19. Perry Ellis sweats were $50, now $19. And I once saw a Bill Blass microfiber trench coat originally marked $300 for $129 and leather jackets for as low as $49. Considering a trip down the aisle? Check out the rather overwhelming Bridal Building at 1385 Broadway (between 37th and 38th Streets, 212/764-5769); it houses showroom after showroom of wedding gowns plus mother-of-the-bride and bridesmaid dresses; some places also have shoes and accessories. However, unless you're just browsing for ideas, it is important to know what you want and what the items are worth: prices are usually about 30 percent off retail but aren't absolutely guaranteed to be lower than in traditional bridal shops. The Bridal Building is open to the public only on Saturday mornings. One more thing: skip the people in the lobby who ask for your name and address for a "drawing" - they're not officials, and they'll only inundate you with junk mail and phone calls. Samples and a giant samples showroom Another top option for the committed shopper is to go to those exciting Manhattan sample sales, where you rub shoulders with New York's best-informed skinflints. Customarily, sample sales are a rock-bottom sell-off of whatever inventory the manufacturer has left after all the ordered merchandise has been shipped to the stores for the season. Big designers will usually have a sale dedicated to their line alone, while some smaller names will do a group show. One of Manhattan's largest sale showrooms is at 560 Seventh Avenue. You can get on a mailing list for their events if you e-mail debra209@aol.com or write to Collective Elite, P.O. Box 1631, New York, NY 10150. During the course of a year there are between 30 and 40 sales at this location, and for the most part the goods are still packed in big brown boxes or jammed on freestanding metal clothing racks. Get down on your hands and knees and rummage with the best of them. Keep in mind that if the sale is running for three days, the prices will be lowest on the third day, as the aim is to clear the house. In any event, you're sure to save at least 60 percent off retail. And the shopping is fierce. Blink, and that vivid blue je ne sais quoi is most likely gone forever. But if you buy it, it's yours forever. I once bought a $380 Johnny Farrah backpack for $45 and nearly expired from the joy of it. Getting on a mailing list But 560 Seventh Avenue is merely one sale location; there are many others (none, however, so consistent a venue). Sometimes sales take place in the designer's showroom; often they are in a rented loft instead. You can easily find out what is happening in the way of sample sales when you are in town if you have access to the Internet. On a weekly basis, simply check: newyorkpost.com (click on "savvy shopper"); lazarshopping.com; or newyorkmag.com (click on "Sales and Bargains"). The webless can purchase current issues of New York magazine or TimeOut, or phone Sarah Gardner's "Fashion Update Hotline" every Monday for late breaking sales (888/44SAVINGS). A typical scene in the fashion district - let the shopping begin.

Taverns and pubs in the 1800's used to carry signs warning patrons--"No Politics, No Religion"--the two topics of conversation so contentious that it was considered best to avoid them altogether. A current-day version of those signs might be expanded to include timeshares. Ask ten different travelers about timeshares and you will very likely get ten different responses; some love them, some hate them, some have been too scared by timeshare horror stories to even give them any thought. But timeshares have changed a great deal since their introduction in the 1960's, so they at least deserve a second look before we outlaw any further discussion of them. The basic premise behind timeshares is simple enough--travelers make a one-time purchase in advance for the rights to use a property for a certain amount of time each year, usually in weekly intervals. Prices vary according to the size, location, season and amenities of the property, but the average cost for a new one-week interval timeshare is around $15,000. In addition to the purchase price, owners pay annual maintenance fees which can range anywhere from $450 to $750. The sticker price for a new timeshare is a lot for most people to swallow, but stretch that cost out over a lifetime and--in theory, at least--owners pay a fraction of what a lifetime's worth of week's stays at a hotel would cost. Of course, that is Timeshares 101. Things get more complicated when you get down to the fine print. There are fixed weeks, floating weeks, swaps, peak seasons, point systems, deeded properties, color codes and so on. Bill Rogers has been a timeshare owner for over ten years, he runs a website devoted to solving fellow timeshare users' problems, and yet even he admits that he doesn't have all the answers. "There's no such thing as a timeshare expert," he says, "the rules are always changing and there is always something new to learn." The number one piece of advice Rogers gives to potential timeshare buyers is to do their homework. "There are countless stories of people who have had bad experiences with timeshares, but most likely, those are the people who didn't take the time to educate themselves before they bought," says Rogers. Jim Cummings has been a timeshare owner for over twenty years. "Overall, I think timeshares are generally a bad idea," says Cummings. "Having said that, I own four," he adds with a laugh. Cummings' sentiment is typical among timeshare owners. Even the most ringing endorsement of timeshares usually comes with a caveat. "Timeshares have allowed me to stay at some really great resorts at prices a lot lower than I would have spent on an equivalent hotel," Cummings says, "but they are a lot of work. You really have to work the system to make timeshares pay off." Before signing on the dotted line The most important thing to consider before buying a timeshare is whether or not they fit the way you travel. A person who prefers exploring a region and staying in a different hotel every night is probably not the best timeshare candidate. Someone who takes a more laid-back approach and enjoys having a "home base" while traveling might do well with the more residential feel of a timeshare. Rogers says the best way to get acquainted with timeshare properties is to actually go and visit them, sitting in on a few timeshare presentations. Usually packaged as part of a discount vacation--travelers receive a free stay at a hotel if they agree to listen to a "property demonstration,"--these sales pitches are notorious for their hard sell techniques and have probably added more to the negative stigma of timeshares than anything else. "They have actually been toned down a lot," says Rogers. "I've heard of presentations where you would have to sacrifice your first born just to get out of there, but there are not many of those around any more." Jim Cummings disagrees. "They are worse than you can imagine," he says. "Having to sit through three hours of a presentation that was only supposed to last a half hour is about the worst torture I can think of." They may be a necessary evil, however, as some properties can only be viewed as part of a presentation package. As long as buyers go into presentations with a firm resolve not to buy that day, Rogers says presentations can provide important information. Though presenters try to entice potential buyers with promises of special deals it's always best to research the options first. Big bargains on the resale market One option for "would-be time sharers" is to investigate the resale market before plunking down good money on a new property. Resales are timeshares sold by individual owners rather than a management company. "People who have bought resales have been making out like gangbusters," says Rogers. "A lot of resales sell for less then fifty cents on the dollar of the original purchase price." Of course, the resale market is flooded because people have had bad experiences with timeshares, but Rogers believes that the people looking to unload their timeshares are the people who didn't do enough initial research before they bought. Jim Cummings bought two of his four timeshares on eBay, both in Cozumel. He paid $800 for the pair. "I only buy from sellers with a high rating and I either e-mail or phone them before I bid. Both people I bought from were people whose situations changed and they could no longer use their properties. I have friends who pay $4,000 for one week in the summer at the New Jersey shore, but I'm able to spend two weeks a year sitting on the beach in Mexico for a quarter of that." A sentiment echoed by everyone involved with timeshares is that travelers should not think of them as moneymaking ventures. Cash cows they are not. Ed Kinney, vice president of corporate affairs, Marriott Vacation Club says,"Try to keep it in the right perspective. If you think of a timeshare as a commitment to a vacation lifestyle rather than a money-making proposition, you will be a lot happier." The ins-and-outs of swapping No matter how great the destination, visiting the same place year after year can start to lose its appeal. One of the nice aspects of a timeshare is that owners have the ability to swap a week at their home property for equal time at a different location. Of course, like everything else, there are fees involved and you will need to do your homework. Swapping timeshares relies on the use of a timeshare exchange company. The two major players in this field are Interval International and Resort Condominiums International. For an annual membership fee, (RCI, $89 per year, $149 two-year special; II, $79 per year, $133 annual gold membership), these companies will do their best to match owners with available timeshares throughout the world. The catch is that your options are limited to properties on par with the value of your home timeshare. In other words, your off-season week in Orlando probably won't land you a week in Vail during the peak ski season. Timeshare exchange companies have been working to make the swapping process easier to navigate. Many now employ a points system which quantifies the trading value of a given timeshare. Owners can bank their points by sacrificing their timeshare one year for greater trading opportunities the next. Timeshares get a corporate makeover The biggest change to occur in the world of timeshares has been the entry of major hotel chains into the market. Companies such as Marriott, Starwood, Westgate, Disney and Hilton have all made major investments into developing timeshare properties. Known as "branded properties," the competition between these chains has served to make the timeshare experience more customer friendly. "Companies are applying the lessons they learned in the hotel business to the timeshare industry, making them more willing to cater to the needs of the customer," says Ed Kinney of Marriott. Many branded timeshares now offer floating time systems that allow users to choose a week within a certain season, rather than being handcuffed to a specific week. And whereas traditional stays had to be from Sunday to Sunday, some properties are now more lenient with their check-in days. With branded properties, swapping has become a simpler proposition since the chains now have numerous timeshare locations under the same banner. Although most still require members to use an exchange company to facilitate swaps, either II or RCI, consistent point values makes trading within chains more convenient. Unfortunately, going with a chain won't eliminate the annual exchange company membership fees. One of the other perks of choosing a branded property is that many are now allowing their timeshare owners to participate in the rewards programs typically reserved for their hotel customers. Owners at Marriott Vacation Clubs have the option every other year to exchange their timeshare week for Marriott Rewards points, which can be then be redeemed for hotel stays and discounts. Despite all their frills, Bill Rogers still emphasizes caution in buying any timeshare, branded or not. "Think of branded properties as just another option," he says. "Just make sure they mesh with what you are trying to accomplish with your vacation destination." The bottom line A timeshare, either new or used, is a long-term financial commitment that requires some due diligence on the part of the buyer. New York State Attorney General Eliot Spitzer released a guide to timeshares entitled "Before You Buy A Timeshare" which canvasses all the potential pitfalls that go along with timeshare ownership. He suggests consulting a financial advisor before purchasing a timeshare. The guide also points out that if a buyer borrows the money needed for a down payment, they must consider the financing costs will be in addition to annual maintenance fees required by the timeshare company. Timeshare owners might also be liable for any special assessments that the management company deems necessary for future operations. According to the guide, "these assessments are hard to predict and might arise when you least expect them." Travelers should also remember that they are still responsible for paying typical vacation costs as well, such as transportation, meals and miscellaneous expenses. In spite of the improvements timeshares have undergone, there is still a great divide between supporters and detractors. Fans of timeshares say they enjoy having a week's vacation waiting for them every year. Naysayers insist that timeshares are too expensive, too confining and too much work. So who's right? Perhaps we better change the subject.

Pack up the car and let's hit the road. In the pages ahead, I'll clue you in on 10 of America's best--and most affordable--drives. Choose your favorite place: the mountains, the beach, big-sky prairie country, the luxuriant gardens of the South. Road trips surely rank as one of the most convenient, rewarding, and least expensive ways to vacation. Great for families, they don't take much planning, and you can go anytime. And you get to see the country's most spectacular scenery, while learning about its history firsthand. I like to break up the time behind the wheel with a hike, a swim, or another outdoor activity. Read on, and I'll tell you where to soak in a giant hot-springs pool, slide down a steep sand dune on an improvised sled, or simply sip (for free) the latest vintages at a quality vineyard. These 10 drives represent the amazing variety of America's road trips. For breathtaking views, head for Colorado's sky-high San Juan Mountains. For pioneer history, it's Nebraska's Pony Express country. Explore Native American life on Arizona's Navajo and Hopi reservations. All but one of these drives can be covered in three days. At each overnight stop, I've recommended good, inexpensive places to stay and eat. Or camp out to really save vacation bucks. Nebraska's pioneer paths More than any other prairie state, Nebraska epitomizes the pioneer spirit; America's westward expansion marched wholly across its wide river valleys and rolling hills. This 425-mile drive also introduces you to Nebraska's wide-open spaces and its beautiful green landscape. Countless streams wander the countryside, which is splashed liberally with lakes and ponds. Their cool water and shady banks are a respite from the summer sun. Getting there Fly into Omaha, which is served by several low-cost airlines: America West, Frontier, and Southwest. Day one Take I-80 west to Lincoln, connecting to U.S. 77 south to the Homestead National Monument of America in Beatrice. The park marks one of the first 160-acre plots granted free to settlers under the Homestead Act of 1862. Settlers fought drought, grass fires, locusts, harsh winters, and loneliness to survive. The museum tells their story. Stroll a replica of the tall-grass prairie the newcomers found. Stay/dine Beatrice at the 64-room Beatrice Inn (800/232-8742), $47. Also, the 44-room Victorian Inn (402/228-5955), $47. Day two Just west on U.S. 136, join up briefly with the Oregon Trail at Rock Creek Station State Historical Park. Once the site of a Pony Express station, the park preserves the deep ruts of wagon trains. Hurry on to Red Cloud, a sleepy farm town renowned as the childhood home of Willa Cather. Tour the tiny gabled house where she enjoyed the privacy of an attic room. West of Red Cloud, turn north on Nebraska Route 10. Learn how to build a sod house at Fort Kearny State Historical Park, which preserves a replica of the 1848 fort built to protect the Oregon Trail. (Yes, Fort Kearny--without an e--is located in Kearney, with the e.) Stay Kearney at the 59-room Motel 6 (308/338-0705), $41. Also, the 34-room Midtown Western Inn (800/333-1401), $50. Dine USA Steak Buffet. Day three Follow U.S. 30/U.S. 26 past Ogallala. Swim at 35,700-acre Lake C.W. McConaughy, a state recreation area. See more wagon ruts at Ash Hollow State Historical Park. At Scotts Bluff, an Oregon Trail National Monument, climb to the top. Visit the Oregon Trail Museum. Stay Scottsbluff at the 55-room Super 8 (308/635-1600), $55. Also, the 49-room Comfort Inn (308/632-7510), $62. Dine Shari's Restaurant. Info: 800/228-4307, visitnebraska.org/. California's redwood coast In its northern half, this 400-mile drive north from San Francisco to Crescent City tunnels through mist-shrouded groves of coastal redwoods. Towering 300 feet, these ancient giants are earth's tallest living things. In the south, California Route 1 snakes high alongside sheer ocean cliffs, then plunges back down in tight curves to rock-filled coves that invite exploring. Getting there Fly into Oakland or San Jose; both are served by America West and Southwest, among others. Day one Take California Route 1 across the Golden Gate Bridge, a worthy gateway. Up the road, stroll three-mile-long Stinson Beach, a local favorite. Save half the day for Point Reyes National Seashore, a sprawling park encompassing forests of wind-sculpted pines and miles of empty beach. Hike easy Bear Valley Trail, an eight-mile path (round trip) meandering through eucalyptus woods to an arched rock by the sea. Stay In the park at the 44-bed Point Reyes Hostel (415/663-8811), $16 per bed, or nearby in Inverness at the 26-room Golden Hinde Inn (415/669-1389), $90. Dine Station House Café in Point Reyes Station. Day two Beyond Bodega Bay, California Route 1 edges Sonoma Coast State Beach for 16 miles, offering plenty of beach play. Stop next at Fort Ross State Historic Park, a rebuilt fort on the site of an 1812 Russian outpost. The art colony of Mendocino is a picture-book Victorian village with the prettiest front yard in America. A grass-covered bluff, it's laced with Pacific-view paths. Stay Nearby in Fort Bragg at the 50-room Fort Bragg Motel (707/964-4787), $49 weekdays/$69 weekends. Also, the 48-room Chelsea Inn & Suites (707/964-4787), $59 except Saturday, when rates can be much higher. Dine Mendo Bistro. Day three Pick up U.S. 101 and enter Redwood Country. At Humboldt Redwoods State Park, detour onto the Avenue of the Giants, a majestic stand. At Redwood National Park, hike the mile-long loop in Lady Bird Johnson Grove--more stately redwoods. Stay Crescent City at the 65-room BayView Inn (800/446-0583), $64. Also, the 48-room Gardenia Motel (707/464-2181), $50. Dine Harbor View Grotto. Info: 800/462-2543, gocalif.ca.gov/. Oregon coast White-tipped waves, heavy with muscle, crash ashore in antic frenzy on Oregon's rugged coast. With a clap of thunder, they splash high against rocky cliffs like geysers and then, a moment later, slip away, spent, to gather strength again. A grand spectacle of nature, it's endlessly repeated along the state's 360-mile shoreline. Countless public beaches dot the way. Go beachcombing, crabbing, agate hunting. Explore tidal pools. Getting there Fly into Portland, which is served by a quartet of discount airlines--Southwest, America West, Frontier, and Sun Country. Day one From Portland, take U.S. 30 northwest along the Columbia River to Astoria. Visit the Columbia River Maritime Museum, an introduction to coastal seafaring life. On U.S. 101 south, stop at Fort Clatsop National Memorial, a re-creation of the hewn-log outpost where the Lewis and Clark Expedition wintered in 1805-06. Stay In the funky beach resort of Seaside at the 53-room Motel 6 (503/738-6269), $65 weekdays/$70 weekends. Also, the 26-room Royal Motel (888/345-1012), $65 weekdays/$75 weekends, or the 56-bed Hostelling International Seaside (503/738-7911), $20 per bunk for nonmembers, $17 for members. Dine Rob's Family Restaurant. Day two Continue south on U.S. 101. At Ecola State Park, check out the "sea stacks," giant offshore rocks scattered down the coast. In Tillamook, stop at the Tillamook Cheese plant for free samples. Detour west onto Three Capes Scenic Drive to keep the sea in view. Catch some rays on the beach. Heading on south, learn about (and perhaps see) gray whales at the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area. Stay Beachfront in Newport at the 62-room Waves Motel (800/282-6993), $63 weekdays/$73 weekends. Also, the 43-room Econo Lodge (541/265-7723), $52/$67 with ocean view. Dine clam fritters with fries, Chowder Bowl at Nye Beach. Day three Ahead on U.S. 101 are the best behind-the-wheel sea views yet. Pause at Cape Perpetua to watch crashing waves up close in the Devil's Churn. The massive sand dunes at Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area are a beach gone wild. Sled the dunes (on a cardboard box) at Jessie M. Honeyman Memorial State Park; swim in the park's Cleawox Lake, which is ringed by evergreens. More seascapes dazzle the eye en route to your last night's stay in Brookings at the 37-room Bonn Motel (541/469-2161), $52 weekdays/$56 weekends. Also, the 35-room Spindrift Motor Inn (800/292-1171), $69 weekdays/$72 weekends. Dine Fish-and-chips at the Flying Gull Restaurant & Lounge. Info: 888/628-2101, visittheoregoncoast.com/ Colorado high country Sprawling across 10,000 square miles, more than a dozen peaks in Colorado's San Juan Mountains tower above 14,000 feet. Grasp the steering wheel, because you're headed into this sky-high land on a 233-mile loop called the San Juan Skyway. Mile after mile, it soars, plunges, and twists in tight, cliff-hanging curves. Getting there Fly into Montrose, Colorado. Or look for cheaper fares into Denver, some 260 miles distant. Day one Explore sun-splashed Montrose. Nearby Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is named for the deep, narrow gorge cut by the Gunnison River. Peer into its depths on the rim's edge road. Take a riverboat tour at Curecanti National Recreation Area. At the Ute Indian Museum, intricate beadwork and other artifacts illustrate tribal history and culture. Stay Montrose at the 51-room San Juan Inn (888/681-4159), $69. Also, the 42-room Super 8 (970/249-9294), $67. Dine Feast on steak at Starvin' Arvin's. Day two The San Juans rise like an impenetrable wall as you approach Ridgway on U.S. 550 south. Head for the ski resort of Telluride via Colorado Route 62 west/145 south. Board Telluride's free gondola, which hoists you up the mountain for a glorious view. Hike to Bridal Veil Falls. From Telluride, Colorado Route 145 climbs 10,222-foot Lizard Head Pass before dropping into Dolores, where you can view ancient Pueblo culture at the Anasazi Heritage Center. At Mesa Verde National Park (east of Cortez off U.S. 160) join a tour of Cliff Palace, the largest cliff dwelling in America. Stay Mesa Verde at the 115-room Far View Lodge (800/449-2288), $102 to $134. Or stay nearby in Cortez at the 85-room Days Inn (970/565-8577), $51. Dine Far View Terrace Food Court. Day three East on U.S. 160, you can watch Durango's historic narrow-gauge train puff out of town. Trace its route north on U.S. 550 to Silverton, a former boomtown that still retains a rough frontier look. On north, zigzag up 11,008-foot Red Mountain Pass. Soak in Ouray's hot-springs pool before returning to Montrose. Stay Montrose, again (see Day One). Info: 800/265-6723, colorado.com/. Lake Superior loop Massive Lake Superior is the largest body of clean, fresh water in the world. Circle it counterclockwise on this winding, 1,400-mile loop and the water on your left seems as wide and forbidding as the ocean. Look to your right, and the thick, evergreen forests, both awesome and intimidating, march in unbroken ranks to the distant horizon. Getting there Although it's about 150 miles from the lake, fly into Minneapolis, which is served by low-costs American Trans Air, America West, AirTran, and Frontier. Day one Take I-35 north from Minneapolis to Duluth, the leading Great Lakes port. Study up on shipping lore at the Lake Superior Maritime Visitor Center, a free U.S. Army Corps of Engineers facility, and then trek over to the Great Lakes Aquarium & Freshwater Discovery Center. Here you'll learn that Superior is about 350 miles long, 160 miles wide, and holds three quadrillion gallons of water. Stay Duluth at the 99-room Motel 6 (218/723-1123), $45 weekdays/$53 weekends. Also, the 59-room Super 8 (218/628-2241), $82 weekdays/$91 weekends. Dine Snag a lake-view table and a roasted-chicken enchilada plate at Little Angie's Cantina & Grill. Day two In Wisconsin, edge Superior to Apostle Islands National Lakeshore--21 islands off Bayfield. Catch the ferry to Madeline Island. Move on to Michigan on U.S. 2/Michigan Route 28 and Marquette's Maritime Museum to learn about legendary shipwrecks. Stay Marquette at the 80-room Super 8 (906/228-8100), $67. Also, the 52-room Value Host Motor Inn (800/929-5996), $55. Dine Portside Inn. Day three Stop in Sault Ste. Marie to watch freighters ease through the Soo Locks. In Canada, take Ontario Highway 17 west. At Lake Superior Provincial Park, hike to Agawa Rock--an ancient Ojibwa canvas of rock paintings. Stay Wawa at the 14-room Mystic Isle Motel (800/667-5895), CAD$62/US$42. Also, the 32-room Big Bird Inn (705/856-2342), CAD$54/US$37. Dine Cedar Hof Dining Lounge. Day four On to Thunder Bay for one of the world's finest water-view drives. Stretch your legs at Aguasabon Falls, Rainbow Falls Provincial Park, and Ouimet Canyon Provincial Park. Stay Thunder Bay at the 50-room Super 8 (807/344-2612), CAD$75/US$51. Also, the 60-room Best Western Crossroads Motor Inn (807/577-4241), CAD$95/US$65. Dine Timbers Restaurant at Valhalla Inn. Day five More waterfalls and Great Lakes lore en route back to Minneapolis via Minnesota Route 61/I-35. Grand Portage National Monument recalls eighteenth-century fur-trading voyageurs. At Judge C.R. Magney State Park, a mighty waterfall disappears into the mouth of Devil's Kettle, a pot-like rock formation. At Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, climb the stairs of a restored lighthouse. Scramble on the rocks at Gooseberry Falls State Park for a final Superior view. Info: visitduluth.com/; marquettecountry.org/; wawa.cc; visitthunderbay.com/. Utah's canyon county Etched by deep, sinuous slick-rock canyons, southern Utah is as awesomely beautiful as it is geologically chaotic. For 400 miles, you'll wind past lofty cliffs, graceful arches, and soaring spires. Take a break to hike, raft, climb, bicycle, fish, and swim. Getting there Fly into , served by low-costs AirTran, America West, American Trans Air, Frontier, JetBlue, Southwest, Spirit, and Sun Country. Day one First stop is Zion National Park, reached via I-15 north and Utah Route 9 east. Carved by the rippling Virgin River, Zion Canyon is a deep, narrow gorge of vividly colored sandstone walls rising 3,000 feet. A shuttle takes you into its heart, but explore on foot to see it best. Recommended the short climb to Emerald Pools. Stay/dine Springdale at the 41-room Pioneer Lodge and Restaurant (435/772-3233), $61 weekdays/$71 weekends. Prime rib is a specialty. Or stay/dine in nearby Kanab at the 89-room Parry Lodge (435/644-2601), $56, which the Hollywood crowd used when filming Westerns nearby. Day two Utah Route 9 makes a heart-stopping climb out of Zion Canyon en route, via U.S. 89 north and Utah Route 12 east, to Bryce Canyon National Park. Formed by erosion, pink-stone pillars in bizarre shapes called hoodoos soar like castle towers. Peer from the canyon rim into a red-rock fantasyland; better yet, descend into its maze of hidden passageways. Stay/dine 52-room Bryce Canyon Pines (800/892-7923), $65. Or stay nearby in Panguitch at the 55-room Best Western New Western (435/676-8876), $65. Day three Perhaps America's most scenic highway, Utah Route 12 traces the northern edge of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Slender canyons slice an immense ocean of shiny, sun-glazed rock. Hike in aptly named Kodachrome Basin State Park; admire petrified logs at Escalante State Park; trek (six miles round trip) alongside Calf Creek for a swim beneath its splashing waterfall. At Capitol Reef National Park, Grand Wash Canyon's polished walls narrow perceptibly every step you take. Stay Torrey at the 34-room Super 8 (435/425-3688), $47 weekdays/$49 weekends. Also, the 39-room Days Inn (435/425-3111), $55 weekdays/$65 weekends. Dine Rib-eye steak at the Capitol Reef Café. Info: 800/200-1160, utah.com/. Arizona's Navajo nation The Navajo and Hopi reservations are like two different foreign countries. This 450-mile loop out of Holbrook rewards with an up-close look at the cultures and lives of these intriguing peoples, struggling to retain their historic identity in a beautiful but harsh land. Catch a ceremonial dance. Examine exquisite handmade rugs, pottery, and kachina dolls. Getting there Fly into Phoenix, which is served by American Trans Air, America West, Frontier, Southwest, and Sun Country. Holbrook is 230 miles northeast of Phoenix via the scenic route, Arizona Routes 87, 260, and 377. Day one Take U.S. 180 south from Holbrook to Petrified Forest National Park, an arid badlands scattered with fallen forests turned to colorful rock. Paved pathways lead to fascinating specimens. Exit onto I-40 east, connecting to U.S. 191 north onto the Navajo Reservation (or Navajo Nation). Look for hogans, ancient-style dwellings still used by traditionalists. Outside Ganado you'll find Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site. Opened in 1878, it is the oldest continually operated trading post on the reservation. Browse its stack of rugs, noting the variety of traditional styles. Canyon de Chelly, a maze of red-rock passageways, once was a Navajo stronghold. Peer into its depth on a rim drive. Stay Chinle at the 99-room Best Western Canyon de Chelly Inn (928/674-5874), $99. Also, the 73-room Thunderbird Lodge (928/674-5841), $101. Dine Thunderbird Cafeteria. Day two Follow U.S. 191 north/U.S. 160 west to Kayenta. Nearby Monument Valley, a landscape of massive wind-sculpted rocks, provided dramatic settings for John Ford/John Wayne Westerns. Stay/dine Tuba City at the 80-room Quality Inn (928/283-4545), $98. Or stay/dine 10 miles west in Tsegi at the 57-room Anasazi Inn (928/697-3793), $60. Day three Cross the Hopi Indian Reservation--which is surrounded by the Navajo Nation--on Arizona Route 264. Most Hopis live on or near First, Second, or Third Mesas, huge rocks shooting from the desert valley. Atop Second Mesa, the Hopi Cultural Center details tribal history. Atop First Mesa, explore the seventeenth-century adobe village of Walpi. Kachina artisans populate both. Return to Holbrook on Arizona Route 77. Stay 70-room Best Western Arizonian Inn (928/524-2611), $73. Also, the 63-room Econo Lodge (928/524-1448), $45. Dine Jerry's Restaurant. Info: 866/275-5816, arizonaguide.com/. Blue Ridge Parkway An unusual road that offers nonstop panoramas, the Blue Ridge Parkway winds for 469 miles through the mountains of Virginia and North Carolina without a stop sign or stoplight. Most of the way, you weave among the forested peaks of the Blue Ridge Mountains--some climb over 4,000 feet. They tower above quilted farmland spread out in valleys below. Getting there Fly into Washington Dulles, served by AirTran, America West, and JetBlue. Waynesboro, Virginia, gateway to the drive, is about 100 miles southwest. Day one The parkway quickly lifts you from a lowland gap in the Blue Ridge Mountains to a lofty slope. The first of countless overlooks yields a view of rumpled hills dotted with lakes and ponds. At Milepost 5, tour the Mountain Farm, an outdoor museum of historic Appalachian farm buildings. At Milepost 34, a waterfall splashes beneath the remnants of a logging railroad. Stay/dine Milepost 86 at the lakeside, 63-room Peaks of Otter Lodge (800/542-5927), $95. Or stay off the parkway in Bedford at the 75-room Days Inn (540/586-8286), $53 weekdays/$58 weekends. Day two Mosey on down the parkway. At Milepost 115, tour Virginia's Explore Park, a more comprehensive outdoor museum of early settler life. On summer Sundays catch local musicians in a bluegrass jam session at Mabry Mill, Milepost 176. Browse the shops in Blowing Rock, North Carolina, but stay 10 minutes away in Boone at the 100-room Fairfield Inn & Suites (828/268-0677), $89 weekdays/$109 weekends. In Blowing Rock, try the 24-room Blowing Rock Inn (828/295-7921), $85 weekdays/$104 weekends. Dine Knights on Main in Blowing Rock. Day three Leave the parkway briefly in Asheville to tour Biltmore Estate; Biltmore House is a 250-room castle patterned after the châteaux of France. Beyond Asheville, the parkway climbs to 6,047 feet, its highest point. At road's end in Cherokee, the Museum of the Cherokee Indian tells the tragic Trail of Tears story of 1838, when 15,000 tribal members were forced to leave their homes and march more than a thousand miles to Indian Territory (Oklahoma). At least 4,000 Cherokees died on the journey. Stay Cherokee at the 72-room Newfound Lodge (828/497-2746), $78/$88. For cheaper rates, stay 16 miles east in Maggie Valley at the 57-room Microtel Inn & Suites (828/926-8554), $60 weekdays/$75 weekends. Dine Teepee Restaurant. Info: 828/299-3507, blueridgeparkway.org/ Plantations of the South Fresh, southern-fried catfish and hush puppies are menu staples on this 250-mile drive up the Mississippi River from Louisiana's Cajun-spiced capital of Baton Rouge, to the old river ports of Natchez and Vicksburg, Mississippi. Along the way, you will visit many of the South's finest pre-Civil War plantation homes and their beautiful formal gardens. Getting there Fly into New Orleans, served by AirTran, America West, Frontier, JetBlue, and Southwest. Day one Plunge into Plantation Country at Houmas House, just north of the airport via I-10 and Louisiana Route 44. An elegant 1840 Greek Revival mansion, it overlooks the Mississippi. (Though the building is under renovation until November, it is still open to the public for touring.) See a different aspect of plantation life at Baton Rouge's LSU Rural Life Museum. Neck irons, shackles, and branding irons recall the slave trade. Stay Baton Rouge at the 110-room Corporate Inn (225/925-2451), $45. Also, the 79-room Fairfield Inn Baton Rouge South (225/766-9493), $74 weekdays/$64 weekends. Dine any of six Piccadilly Cafeterias in the area. Day two From Baton Rouge, U.S. 61 climbs from lowland bayous through a lush countryside of mixed fields and forests. Stroll nineteenth-century Royal Street in St. Francisville, a river port, and then visit two important plantations and gardens nearby. Oakley is Caribbean in style, more suitable for the local heat and humidity. Furnishings are lavish, yet the story is grim. Fever and dysentery struck frequently. More upbeat, Rosedown delights with its grand avenue of oaks and formal gardens. Stay Natchez at the 160-room Ramada Inn Hilltop (601/446-6311), $86. Also, the 121-room Days Inn (601/445-8291), $54. Dine the grilled catfish plate at Biscuits & Blues. Day three Begin the day exploring Natchez's public homes. Melrose, the most intriguing, stands at the end of a long, oak-lined drive. From Natchez, follow the Natchez Trace Parkway, a historic route. At Milepost 10, climb Emerald Mound, a Native American ceremonial platform dating from a.d. 1250. At Milepost 66, take Mississippi Route 27 into Vicksburg, where more mansions await. Vicksburg National Military Park commemorates a major Union victory. Stay Vicksburg at the 63-room Best Western (601/636-5800), $75. Also, the 49-room Econo Lodge (601/634-8766), $49. Dine Rowdy's Family Restaurant. Info: 800/527-6843, visitbatonrouge.com/; 800/647-672natchez.ms.us/; 800/221-vicksburgcvb.org. Civil War trails Washington, D.C., and Richmond are separated by a scant 100 miles. Their proximity as enemy capitals turned the landscape blood red in a series of horrendous battles marked by courageous charges and catastrophic blunders. This 350-mile itinerary provides an intimate glimpse of the four-year conflict. Getting there Fly into one of three area airports: Baltimore, served by America West, AirTran, Frontier, and Southwest; Reagan National (Washington), served by America West, American Trans Air, and Frontier; or Washington Dulles, served by AirTran, America West, and JetBlue. Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, the start of the drive, is less than two hours away from each. Day one The Battle of Gettysburg, July 1-3, 1863, marked the Civil War's turning point. The Union victory put the South on the defensive until the fighting's end two years later. Relive the battle on the 18-mile auto tour at Gettysburg National Military Park. To see it as the soldiers did, walk at least partway. Stay Gettysburg at the 30-room Three Crowns Motor Lodge (800/729-6564), $62. Also, the 25-room Perfect Rest Motel (800/336-1345), $59 weekdays/$69 to $89 weekends. Dine Gingerbread Man, a Victorian-style charmer. Day two Antietam National Battlefield in Sharpsburg, Maryland, was the scene of the war's bloodiest day. To reach Antietam, take U.S. 15 south to Frederick, U.S. 40 north to Maryland Route 34 south. Study the battle on the nine-mile drive, and then follow signs to nearby Harpers Ferry National Historical Park in West Virginia. The mountain village was the target of abolitionist John Brown's raid. Stop and sip along the way to wine country and Fredericksburg, Virginia (U.S. 340/U.S. 17 south), site of four battles--described at Fredericksburg & Spotsylvania National Military Park. Stay Fredericksburg at the 59-room Travelodge (800/578-7878), $54 weekdays/$64 weekends. Also, the 119-room Motel 6 (540/371-5443), $46 weekdays/$54 weekends. Dine Ponderosa Steakhouse. Day three In June 1864, Union forces trapped Confederates in Petersburg, Virginia (I-95 south). At Petersburg National Battlefield, walk the earthworks built during the long siege. Then trace Confederate flight to Appomattox Court House National Historical Park (U.S. 460), where Lee surrendered to Grant on Apr. 9, 1865. The hilltop village looks much as it did that day. Stay Appomattox at the 45-room Super 8 (434/352-2339), $62, or in nearby Lynchburg at the 59-room Super 8 (434/846-1668), $65. Dine Granny Bee's. Info: 717/334-6274, gettysburgcvb.org/; fredricksburgvirginia.net; 434/352-8987, nps.gov/apco.

For a year and a half in the early 1960s, Bob Guynup, of Atlanta, served in the U.S. Navy at a small communications base in the Philippines. Whenever his supervisors allotted him some free time, he and his mates would head 30 miles south to Subic Bay, where the U.S. maintained a huge naval base. "I really loved those liberty days," he says. "Our bus would take us into Subic Navy Yard, and from there we'd walk into town to find a place to drink San Miguel beer." Other times, Guynup and his buddies hired a driver to lead them on various adventures. "One night we wound up in an illegal casino. You had to rap on the door like a speakeasy from the 1930s. It was exciting and high-class, with a good band and wonderful meals." Like many veterans, Guynup has grown curious about what's become of his old stomping grounds. "We've been looking at a trip to the Far East for a few years now but haven't been able to go until this fall," says Susan Franklin, his wife. "My husband wants to return to Subic Bay, and we'd also like to see Bangkok, Hong Kong, and Cambodia over the course of two weeks or so. We know many people who are knowledgeable about Europe, but we haven't been able to find anyone reliable to advise us about Asia." At your service! First on the agenda: transportation. Bob and Susan were perfect candidates for a special offer from Cathay Pacific called the All Asia Pass. For $1,199, it includes a flight from the U.S. to Hong Kong, Cathay's hub, and allows connections to 18 Asian cities over 21 days. If they signed up for the airline's free CyberTraveler program online, they'd get a discount of $200 per person. So each pass ended up costing $999 plus taxes (about $50 to leave the United States, and between $10 and $50 for every departure abroad). As for putting together an actual itinerary with the pass, Cathay Pacific is of little help. The airline doesn't even sell the pass directly. Instead, it insists that clients book all their connections through a travel agent. Being flexible with dates and reserving well in advance are essential. Cathay's American gateways are Los Angeles, San Francisco, and New York. We told Bob and Susan to start their pass with a nonstop flight from L.A. to Hong Kong (some of the other connections involve long layovers). AirTran Airways had flights to L.A. for roughly $200 round trip. Unfortunately, the Cathay pass doesn't cover travel to Cambodia. Bangkok Airways had the best deal on round-trip airfare from Bangkok to Siem Reap, near the amazing temple ruins of Angkor Wat: around $250 each. "Back in the '60s, a good hotel in the Philippines was about $5 per night," says Bob. That's pretty cheap, but they're doing even better on this trip. The couple has saved up 225,000 American Express Membership Rewards points, which they're trading in for rooms at chains such as Hilton and Holiday Inn in Bangkok, Hong Kong, and the Philippines. They had enough points for free nights everywhere except in Cambodia, so we suggested the Angkoriana Hotel. The Angkoriana is decorated in the ancient Khmer style but features modern amenities and a location right in Siem Reap, just a five-minute drive to Angkor Wat. Doubles start at $65, or a package with airport transfers, breakfast, dinner, and a driver/guide to the temples is available for $59 per person. (We recommended the full package for one night and a room without meals or tours for two more.) Susan asked us about renting a car -- we said not to. Hong Kong and Bangkok are thoroughly modern, and public transportation is cheap, efficient, and fairly easy to figure out. Dealing with chaotic traffic, aggressive drivers, and road signs that aren't always in Roman letters, on the other hand, can be a nightmare. In Cambodia and the Philippines, where the infrastructure isn't always up to snuff, we told them to hire a car and driver for excursions (just like old times). One of those trips has to be to Subic Bay. Bob and Susan chose to stay at the Holiday Inn at Clark Field, on a private parkland estate with 7,000 trees and a 27-hole golf course. Subic Bay is a two-hour ride away, and hiring a car and driver for the day costs about $70. Bob probably won't recognize Subic Bay. The military compound was handed from the U.S. to the Philippine government in 1992. What was the base is now called Subic Bay Freeport, a commercial area filled with businesses and shops that employ approximately 45,000 people. There's a golf course, a yacht club, bowling alleys, discos, and a performing arts center, and it's all surrounded by virgin forest with easy walking trails. Things in Subic Bay are scheduled to change even more in the near future -- plans are under way to convert it into a commercial port that will bring in big cruise ships. We told Bob to contact Winstar Taxi Services for a custom tour of his old haunts in the area -- and to drink a couple of cold San Miguels for us! Asia Lodging Angkoriana Hotel No. 297 Phum Boeng Daun Pa Khum Slakram, Siem Reap-Angkor, Cambodia, 011-855/63-760-274, angkorianahotel.com, doubles from $65 Holiday Inn at Clark Field Mimosa Dr., Mimosa Leisure Estate, Pampanga, Clark Field 2009, Philippines, 011-63/2-845-1888, holiday-inn.com, doubles from $60 Bangkok Airways 011-66/2265-5555, bangkokair.com Cathay Pacific 800/233-2742, cathay-usa.com AirTran Airways 800/247-8726, airtran.com Winstar Taxi Services 011-63/47-252-7409, tours $5.50 per hour Subic Bay Freeport Luzon, Philippines, 011-63/47-252-7262, sbma.com