FEATURE

25 Reasons We Love Fort Worth

The city is mighty cosmopolitan for a "Cowtown." The cattle drives are just for show--but the avant-garde theater, floating museum, and white-water rapids are the genuine article.

Hats off at the White Elephant

1. Hungry, pardner?
Fort Worth has long defined itself as the opposite of its flashy neighbor, Dallas. Walk into Railhead Smokehouse BBQ, and you'll have no doubt where owner—and state rep—Charlie Geren stands on the matter: Everything reflects Cowtown's down-home roots, including the beer served in goblets and the platters of pork ribs and barbecued chicken. In case diners need reminding, staff T-shirts say "Life is too short to live in Dallas." 2900 Montgomery St., 817/738-9808, railheadonline.com, two-meat platter $10.

2. Blazing saddles
While the daily cattle drives (see no. 7) are just for show, rodeos at the Cowtown Coliseum are serious business. Contenders, some nationally ranked, face off in open rodeos held every weekend (121 E. Exchange Ave., 817/625-1025, cowtowncoliseum.com, $15). The action spills over into the bull-riding ring and dance floor at Billy Bob's Texas, where there are 32 drink stations and a mirrored saddle in place of a disco ball (2520 Rodeo Plaza, 817/624-7117, billybobstexas.com, cover up to $10).

3. The buck starts here
All U.S. paper currency comes from just two sources: Washington, D.C., and Fort Worth. The latter's Bureau of Engraving and Printing produces billions of notes annually, each with a tiny FW on the front. On 45-minute weekday tours, you can check out the production floor and learn about anti-counterfeiting features—like watermarks and color-shifting ink—being used on bills. 9000 Blue Mound Rd., 817/231-4000, moneyfactory.gov, free.

4. Stage coaches
In 2000, a group of Texas Christian University alums formed Amphibian Stage Productions, naming it after the mascot of their alma mater, the horned frog. "I worried that our aesthetic might be too much for people," says artistic director Kathleen Culebro. (One play, by Shaun Prendergast, was performed in the dark.) Evidence proves otherwise: Ever-growing audiences attend the readings and fully staged productions. 817/923-3012, amphibianproductions.org, readings by donation, plays $20.

5. Swim at your own risk
Created by a dam on the West Fork of the Trinity River in 1914, the 3,500-acre Lake Worth was once a pleasant retreat for a swim, but in recent decades it's become a murky, shallow pool. Quirky tales have grown up around it, including sightings of a goat man—a monster with a human body and the head of a goat—in 1969.

6. Billionaire benefactors
Once riddled with gambling joints and brothels, Sundance Square takes its name from the Sundance Kid, who hid out there between robberies. In the '70s, the billionaire Bass family began buying up blocks of property and turning them into a lively neighborhood. The area is now home to the Sid Richardson Museum (309 Main St., 817/332-6554, sidrichardsonmuseum.org, free); the Fort Worth Water Garden, designed by Philip Johnson (1502 Commerce St.); and Bass Performance Hall, remarkable for its superb acoustics and the giant angels on its façade (4th and Calhoun Sts., 877/212-4280, basshall.com).

7. Herd mentality
Fort Worth was nicknamed Cowtown when it was a major stop along the Chisholm Trail, a cattle-drive route from southern Texas to Kansas. Today, the Stockyards district still has brick streets, saloons, and two daily (albeit symbolic) cattle drives. At 11:30 a.m. and 4 p.m., tourists line up to watch 15 Texas longhorns amble down East Exchange Avenue. fortworthstockyards.org, free.

8. Light touch
Even in the Cultural District, with four other world-class museums nearby, architect Tadao Ando's gorgeous Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth exists in a world of its own. The five glass pavilions appear to float on a shallow reflecting pool; inside, skylights illuminate works by the likes of Roy Lichtenstein, Jackson Pollock, and Cindy Sherman. 3200 Darnell St., 817/738-9215, mamfw.org, $10.


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Whenever I'm in a country where drinking or brushing my teeth with the tap water is a risk, I cover the faucet handles in my hotel bathroom with a towel. As a result, I never accidentally turn on the faucet when I'm half asleep.

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Going to a place where you don't speak the language? Take along a picture booklet filled with examples of common food items (chicken, cow, rice, bottled water, coffee, wine, etc.) and use it to find dishes you like—you only have to point to the picture of what you want. We did this during a recent trip to Asia and always had wonderful meals.

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Be certain to have enough blank pages in your passport. Someone I know had a terrible time getting per- mission to board a flight from Zambia to South Africa because she didn't have the two blank passport pages required to enter South Africa. Thank goodness my husband had read about the requirement. Before the trip, we sent our passports to the center in Charleston and had extra pages added at no charge.

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My husband and I travel to out-of-the-way towns where rural roads can be hard to navigate. We use a handheld GPS (Global Positioning System) to mark the spot where we're staying, the main highway turnoffs, and, most important, the turns to unmarked side roads. When we're back-tracking and arrive again at confusing intersections, we whip out our GPS and immediately know which route to take home.

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If your vacation spot is a major port of call for cruise ships, plan excursions for the days that the ships aren't docked. Tours will be less crowded, and you'll get to see and do a lot more.

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Finding the bathroom in the middle of the night in a strange hotel room or cruise-ship cabin can be a challenge. Leaving the bathroom light on seems wasteful and makes the room too bright for sleeping. My husband and I used to travel with a night-light, but we couldn't always find a convenient place to plug it in. We've recently discovered a better solution: plastic light sticks. They come in several glow-in-the- dark colors and are activated by bending the tube into a circle and connecting the ends. Each evening, we hook one of the loops over the bathroom-door handle, where it provides a gentle glow through the night.

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Put your perfume and cologne bottles inside pairs of rolled-up socks to keep them cushioned during your journey.

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— Connie Crusha
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Use the shoeshine mitt often found in hotel bath- rooms to store your sunglasses. They fit nicely inside the pouch, and when you take them out, you have a soft material to clean them with. For extra protection while traveling, I store my sunglasses inside the shoe-shine mitt, fold the end closed, and then place it in my glasses case.

— Dan Coviello
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Anyone traveling with multiple electronic devices (laptops, PDAs, cell phones, digital cameras, MP3 players) can easily confuse all the accessories that come with them. To keep all battery chargers, USB cables, media cards, and owner's manuals safe, dry, and organized, place them in individual Ziploc bags. You can put a label inside the bag to identify the contents, and one label wrapped around each cable to identify it.

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Before you book a room over the phone, peruse the hotel's site for its "Web only" rate. It's often cheaper than the best quote you'll get by calling. Recently, over the phone, I was quoted a daily rate of $129. I booked the same room online for $89.

— Ying Wang
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Instead of dropping my laundry off at the front desk, I take a walk around the block and look for the nearest dry cleaner--probably the same one the hotel would've taken it to. By cutting out the middle man, I pay a quarter of what they charge at the hotel!

— Amy Paks
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My husband and I create personal cards (like business cards) before we leave home. We put our name, address, phone, and email address on them, as well as a picture of us. How many people have gotten home from a trip, looked at a slip of paper with a name and address, and wondered, Who is this? The picture helps link a name to a face.

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Before I visit poorer countries, I pop into a thrift store and pick up some toys, stuffed animals, and an old suitcase or carryall. I try to avoid toys like Easter bunnies or Santas, which could be offensive, and expensive things that might embarrass parents. The contents of my extra bag bring joy to countless kids who have never had a thing.

— Ingrid Newkirk
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When carrying around my small umbrella, I put it in a Ziploc bag. After using it, I can store the umbrella, back inside the Ziploc, in my shoulder bag without getting everything else soaked.

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