EAT LIKE A LOCAL
Montreal & Quebec
For less than ten U.S. dollars-that's right, US$10--you can eat well in French Canada at delightful sit-down restaurants, enjoying two courses and more
To live like a royal. To shop without care, to wander in and out of museums and theaters at will, to dine in chichi restaurants without breaking a sweat-or a 20-dollar bill. That fantasy (or something like it) is broadly available today in Canada.
Yes, Canada, where the average American becomes fabulously wealthy just by stepping across the border.
I do exaggerate, but only slightly. With the Canadian dollar continuing to limp along at $1.53 to the U.S. dollar, American tourists increase their worth by more than 50 percent the minute they step into Maple Leaf Land. Restaurants in the province of Quebec are so affordable that for the first time in the history of this series of "Little Wonder" articles, we're lowering the price we're willing to accept for a meal from $12 to $10. At every one of the following eateries, it's possible to get a handsome repast (entr?e and either appetizer or dessert, but sometimes both) for under that US$10 limit, based on the above exchange rate.
And what you get is often exquisite (and certainly unique to this part of the world). Quebecois cuisine, with its roots in French cooking, has become increasingly eclectic of late. As more and more ethnic groups come to Montreal (and to a lesser extent Quebec City), local chefs are expanding their palettes, incorporating the spices and techniques of Asia, Africa, and Europe. Add to that Canada's traditional fondness for game meats and home-tapped maple syrup, and you have one of the most interesting food scenes in North America, a cuisine at once homespun and hearty yet tremendously sophisticated. I've compiled a list of some of the best eats in both cities and translated their prices into U.S. dollars. Bon appetit!
Montreal Au Bistro Gourmet 2 4007 rue Sain t-Denis, 514/844-0555. Metro: Sherbrooke. This comely newcomer, less than a year old, is taking Montreal's premier shopping street by storm with an entr?e (from a choice of eight) and either soup or salad for just CAD$14.95 (US$9.80). With its creamy white walls, elegant yellow banquettes, towering vases of fresh cut flowers, and crisp linens, this manicured eatery would be just as much at home on Paris's Left Bank as it is on this cosmopolitan stretch of Saint-Denis. Even the chef, Gabriel Ohana, is imported from France, and he brings a Gallic theatricality to every plate that emerges from his kitchen. Mr. Ohana is of the taller-is-better school of cooking, creating elaborate sculptures of food as perfectly balanced as a yoga master. The fare goes beyond mere theatrics, however. The calf's liver in balsamic vinegar is heaven as an organ meat; silky and tart, it hovers inches above the plate on a stack of chanterelle mushrooms and potatoes. The sole comes out swimming-in a lo vely white-wine sauce, that is-enlivened by crisp diced vegetables. The humble salad could be designed by Dior, the plate streaked with inky, sweet balsamic vinegar, the greens drizzled with a sinful mayonnaise dressing. And in the realm of food imitating life, the lamb shank stands straight up on its haunch, the meat so tender you simply flake it off the bone with a fork to dip it in the delicate rosemary sauce swirled at its base. It's accompanied by two mini "silos" of sweet roasted onion, zucchini, and potato. The real "chez" McCoy, and our top choice in Montreal.
Restaurant le Bourlingueur 363 rue Saint-Fran?ois-Xavier, 514/845-3646. Metro: Place d'Armes. All items are served table d'h(tm)te, meaning every meal includes soup, salad, dessert, and coffee. From CAD$9.95 (US$6.50). Pheasant. Wild Boar. Lobster. No, you haven't accidentally switched to an article in Travel + Leisure. These exotic (and in the United States, pricey) treats are often on the specials list at this V ieux-Montreal charmer, never for more than CAD$18 (US$11.80), including starter and dessert. Choose from the regular menu and you'll drop even fewer loonies: A savory plate of sausage and sauerkraut, ^ l'Alsace (called the "Express" meal) comes in at just CAD$9.95 (US$6.50); scrumptious roast pork with roasted apples is a mere CAD$12.55 (US$8.20); poached salmon ^ la cr?me CAD$14.55 (US$9.50). The preparations for these dishes are straightforward and tr?s French-heavy on the cream sauces, light on the grease. And your surroundings are just as nice as those in any of the snootier eateries in this tourist-trapping neighborhood. True, the floors are linoleum (could that be the reason for the low prices?), but other than that, the restaurant retains the ambience of the area with rough-hewn stone walls, pretty stenciled ceilings, and arrangements of dried flowers on each table.
Boris Bistro 465 rue McGill, 514/848-9575, www.borisbistro.com. Metro: Square-Victoria. A cool, industri ally chic eatery where the crowd is mixed, the music soothing, and the fab food affordable, starting at CAD$12.50 (US$8.20) per meal. Sitting on the border between classic Old Montreal and the bustling Cit? Multim?dia, Boris Bistro looks like one of those open white spaces that only models inhabit, such as in ads for tony vodkas. It draws an eclectic crowd-shoulder-to-shoulder suits and ties at lunch, camera-and-maple-syrup-toting tourists in the warmer months-who come for cooking that takes classic bistro and traditional Quebecois cuisines and subtly updates them. The tourti?re, the region's famed pork-and-beef pie, is done here with caribou and duck and sided by a scrumptious fruit coulis instead of the usual ketchup (CAD$14.25/US$9.30). The sausage plate (CAD$12.50/US$8.20) also uses delicately spiced caribou, accompanied by the crispest of fries. A veal blanquette (CAD$13.50/US$8.80) boasts a sauce less creamy than herbful, a delightful dill covering that tastes as green a s a freshly mowed lawn. The soup, too, trumpets its herbs, and if it's on the menu (which changes weekly), then the cream of red pepper (CAD$3/US$2) is not to be missed. There is one downside to Boris Bistro (which will be an upside for some): Because there is no barrier between the bar and the restaurant, by law children cannot be served. They can, however, eat on the linden-shaded outdoor terrace in the summer months.


