The Secret Hotels of New Orleans

In the Big Easy, a little peace and quiet is not too much to ask

You might not go to bed until dawn, but do it at the most inviting inns in this perennial party town.

Finding affordable rooms in New Orleans between January and early May is as hard as finding clean politicians here: They exist, but, boy, are they hidden. The Sugar Bowl/Mardi Gras/St. Pat's/French Quarter Fest/Jazz Fest megaseason all but guarantees a constant influx of bons vivants who snarf up every hotel, motel, and B&B cubbyhole around. It is not unheard-of for basic digs at, say, the Hilton to go for north of $300. But if you book early at one of the spots below (which we priced on a high-season weekend outside of the super- expensive festival periods), you may be able to have your King Cake and eat it, too.

The McKendrick-Breaux House is really two houses, both beautifully restored 1865 Greek Revivals in the Lower Garden District, connected by a shady courtyard. The nine rooms bear extravagant touches, like floor-to-ceiling silk dupioni drapes and fresh flowers, and each has a spacious bathroom--most are resplendent with pedestal sinks, claw-foot bathtubs, and luxuriously thick robes with slippers.

An incarnation of the city's grand (yet sometimes seedy) past, The Columns Hotel is a Garden District mansion that played a brothel in the 1978 Brooke Shields movie Pretty Baby. Some of the 20 rooms have seen better days--tatty wallpaper, threadbare drapes, slightly banged-up furniture. But they're clean, and when you consider the hotel's ornate mahogany bar, its expansive porch, and the sounds of live jazz in the ballroom, the shabbiness just feels right. And the potential is enormous.

Well situated Uptown on one of the Carnival parade routes, Beau Sejour has six rooms in a 100-year-old Italianate home set high on an avenue canopied by live oaks. The ground-floor suite is the best option, but two of the upstairs rooms have balconies overlooking the street. If the weather is warm enough--which it often is, even in February--guests take a dip in the small pool or hold cookouts around the gas grill.

The 137-room Hotel Le Cirque stands 10 stories tall on Lee Circle, near the streetcar stop, and around the corner from the city's Warehouse Arts district. The rooms are small, mod-looking affairs done in an eye-lulling range of neutrals. In all, it's a pretty slick spot considering the price, and guests get free access to a nearby gym.

The brand-new Renaissance Arts Hotel, smack in the Warehouse Arts district, has gussied itself up with original works everywhere. There's a gallery off the lobby and a sculpture garden on the second floor. Even the rooms are decked in local art and bold linens. It's a gimmick that works. All that creativity fills the hotel with a certain energy and makes staying here fun.

Parked on the streetcar line in the Central Business District and near the French Quarter, the Hotel Monaco--a renovated former Masonic temple from 1926--doesn't rest on the laurels of its location. It's also historic and colorful. The lobby and rooms are aflame in hot hues and contrasting prints, and its trendy restaurant, Cobalt, hosts live jazz on the weekends.

Le Richelieu probably peaked in 1975 when Paul and Linda McCartney spent two months holed up on its top floor, which overlooks the street on the downriver end of the Quarter. The 86 rooms are a bit dark and none too stylish. But affordable beds in the Vieux Carré are rare, and if you request a spot on the second floor, which has 12- to 14-foot ceilings and a fabulous balcony, you won't be sorry.

Just up the road lies Hotel Provincial, a series of buildings built in the mid-1800s. Because of sporadic development, each of the 93 rooms sports a different layout and is filled with antiques that have seen better days. Nonetheless, the hotel's prime location, ample parking, and two pools make it a sweet spot to hang your mask during high season.

In the Faubourg Marigny, just downriver of the Quarter, the six-room B&W Courtyards is run by two chatty and opinionated dudes who are only too happy to tell you all the coolest places to eat, drink, and dance. Rooms range in size and style--everything from tiger stripes to Balinese--and most of them open onto one of three fountained courtyards.

Summer meltdown in the Big Easy

In August--when it feels like you're walking around town with a hot, wet blanket wrapped around your head--even the prices at the snazziest hotels begin to droop. Book as late as you can.

The grand-mere of posh Crescent City hotels, the Windsor Court (300 Gravier St., 888/596-0955, windsorcourthotel.com/) rents mostly suites. In deep summer, an 800-square-foot unit that normally costs $700 goes for $240. The Soniat House (1133 Chartres St., 800/544-8808, soniathouse.com/), on the quiet, lower end of the French Quarter, has 33 rooms with gleaming antiques and art. The cheapest goes for $250 in season, but come the dog days, just a single Ben Franklin will get you in. A couple of weeks before Mardi Gras, you'll pay $450 for a room at the W Hotel French Quarter (316 Chartres St., 888/625-5144, whotels.com/), but a few weeks before Labor Day, you can set the A/C to 60 and jump into its pillow-top beds for half that. Meanwhile, at the Ritz-Carlton (921 Canal St., 800/241-3333, ritzcarlton.com/), a $415 room can be had for just $129. Take the money you save and spend it at the spa.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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During a visit to Mexico City, I was sitting in a plaza near a fountain, watching the locals stroll around in their Sunday best. Nearby, an older gentleman was playing a concertina; his music perfectly framed the scene. I took lots of pictures, but I didn't have a way to capture that music. Now I pack a small tape recorder along with my camera.

— Kieran Sala
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Air Travel
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We've noticed that when booking a flight for our family under one reservation, some airlines will only credit the 1,500 bonus miles (500 for booking online, 500 each way for printing boarding passes) to the person whose name the reservation is under. This is regardless of whether the other family members have mileage accounts. To avoid this, make a separate reservation for each of your family members and then pick seats together.

— Martin Vasquez
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Technology
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My husband and I travel to out-of-the-way towns where rural roads can be hard to navigate. We use a handheld GPS (Global Positioning System) to mark the spot where we're staying, the main highway turnoffs, and, most important, the turns to unmarked side roads. When we're back-tracking and arrive again at confusing intersections, we whip out our GPS and immediately know which route to take home.

— Florence McGinn
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When I'm on a cruise with my wife's family and we're in a foreign city for the day, I get off the boat as soon as we dock and hail a taxi. I ask the driver to call his dispatcher and find me a van with an English-speaking driver. Then I negotiate an hourly rate and a pickup time at the dock. The family tours together for a few hours, and then each couple either gets dropped off where they want to spend extra time or returns to the boat (this is great for my elderly in-laws). We get a tailor-made city tour for a much cheaper rate than if we had booked through the cruise line.

— Stuart Hanzman
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Planning
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Certified scuba divers who take prescription medications should keep a doctor's permission-to-dive statement with their certification cards. On a recent trip to Jamaica, I truthfully completed a lengthy questionnaire about my health, revealing that I have medically controlled high blood pressure and cholesterol. I was told I could not dive without a doctor's OK, even though I exercise regularly, am very fit, and have no other health issues. I now carry a letter from my doctor attesting to my fitness for scuba diving.

— Ginny Ganthner
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Air Travel
369261

Tired of catching colds while traveling? Take along a travel-size package of Clorox wipes. Disinfect the tray table and armrests on the airplane, and the telephone and TV remote in your hotel room.

— Sherill Hacker
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Planning
370258

Love researching your destination online, but don't know how to organize all those printouts, maps, guidebooks, and tips? I get a 5 x 7" spiral notebook (Mead makes one with a sturdy cover and a pocket insert), a set of index tabs, and some glue. Divide the notebook into sections with the tabs (sights, maps, currency converter, restaurants, etc.). Photocopy—in reduction mode—all the info you want to bring, and glue it into the appropriate section. I leave plenty of pages for my journals. This creates an all-in-one personal guide that you can read again years after your trip!

— Michele Graves
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375244

Use the shoeshine mitt often found in hotel bath- rooms to store your sunglasses. They fit nicely inside the pouch, and when you take them out, you have a soft material to clean them with. For extra protection while traveling, I store my sunglasses inside the shoe-shine mitt, fold the end closed, and then place it in my glasses case.

— Dan Coviello
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Dining
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Using restaurant.com, you can buy gift certificates good at eateries in your destination city, regularly snagging (in my experience) $25 certificates for as little as $5 to $8.The site is awesome, and it works as well for restaurant certificates in your own city and for obtaining gifts for friends.

— Derrick Tennant
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Packing
380251

I always pack several tea lights, a small vial of essential oils, and matches. Tea lights, when placed in a water glass for extra safety, banish stale or unpleasant smells in hotel rooms. The essential oils work wonders when a drop is placed on a warm lightbulb.

— Stephanie Hartselle
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If you wait to buy a discount-granting Entertainment Book until around six months before it expires (expiration is usually scheduled for November), you can often buy a $20 to $47 book for as little as $10, plus $5 shipping. Online access to the coupons is sold for $7 a month. These are great for vacations out of town.

— Kitty Bennett
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Put your perfume and cologne bottles inside pairs of rolled-up socks to keep them cushioned during your journey.

— Joia Starks
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When planning a vacation, we send away for brochures from major tour operators. They provide hotel and restaurant recommendations and sightseeing itineraries, which we then duplicate on our own. Use this trick to mimic the vacation packages of high-end tour operators for what can turn out to be a fraction of the cost.

— Raymond White
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I unpacked a pair of black slacks recently to find them covered with white fuzz. I didn't have a lint brush handy, so I used the luggage sticker from my bag--the gummy side took the lint right off.

— Joyce Barbatti
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Hotels
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If you visit a country where you don't speak the language, pick up a book of your hotel's matches or one of its business cards; they usually have the hotel's name and address printed on them. Then when you're out sightseeing and want to return to your hotel, show the matchbook or card to the cabdriver if he doesn't speak English.

— Verne F. Noyes
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Some people think that traveler's checks aren't necessary anymore, but they really can be useful in a variety of situations. My ATM card wouldn't work on Easter Island, where most restaurants did not accept credit cards and wanted to be paid in pesos. Luckily, our hotel cashed my traveler's checks and gave me the pesos I needed. On Dominica, my purse was stolen. But because I had traveler's checks stashed away in my luggage, the vacation wasn't ruined. I always travel with what I call the "trusty four": American dollars (lots of ones and fives divided up and hidden in several locations), traveler's checks, an ATM card, and a credit card.

— Jeanette Cantwell
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Bring a single-hole punch and lanyard on your next cruise. Once aboard, you can make a hole in your plastic key card and attach the lanyard, allowing you to carry the key around your neck. This is especially useful when your dress or slacks have no pockets. Just be sure to put the hole where it won't interfere with the card's magnetic strip.

— Sallie Clinard
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When my husband and I travel, we take at least three different credit cards. I carry one he doesn't have, he carries one I don't have, and we both bring our primary card. If one of us has our wallet stolen, we can cancel two cards and still have one to use. We each have different ATM cards, too--useful if a machine doesn't honor one of the cards, or if we need more cash than our daily limit allows.

— Joyce Morden
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If you're headed to a country that requires a visa, ask the consulate of that country, in the United States, whether visas are also issued at the airport there on arrival. In many cases (like Turkey and Egypt), they are. Obtaining the visa on arrival is a much simpler procedure and a real money-saver: You do not have to have photographs taken (they figure your passport already has a photo), you do not pay a hefty fee to the U.S.-situated consulate of the country, you avoid the expense and risk of mailing your passport to that consulate in advance of departure, and you avoid the expense of using a visa-acquiring company in the United States. But be sure the consulate is correct that the visa can easily be obtained on arrival.

— Carmencita Soriano
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Car Rentals
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I always have problems locating my rental car in a large parking lot. Now I bring along a brightly colored bandanna and tie it to the antenna.

— Tamara Johnson
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I travel with two cameras: a digital SLR for the majority of my shots, and a small disposable camera for when I ask strangers to take pictures of me. As much as I tend to trust other people, I'm not ready to hand over my $1,000 camera to someone I don't know at all.

— Sam Antonio
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Before my last long flight, I went to librivox.org and chose a bunch of books, short stories, and poems to download to my iPod--for free. The site has both adult and children's books, and the list is growing. All of the titles are in the public domain, and they're read by volunteers, so there's no question of copyright infringement. Even if you don't own an iPod, you can download them to your computer and burn them onto a CD.

— Diane Bowman
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Air Travel
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I was booking tickets online for an upcoming flight to Europe from the East Coast. One particularly attractive fare was offered on a U.S. airline as well as on its foreign "partner airline." Same plane, same flight, same base price. But it was more than $100 cheaper per ticket to book with the foreign airline versus the U.S.one. We saved more than $400 for four tickets, but we'll be on the same plane!

— Lori Uhl
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My husband cut an old contact lens case in two and uses the halves to carry his medication when we're traveling. He prefers them to regular pillboxes because lens cases are watertight and compact enough to carry inside a shirt pocket.

— Jean Holtmann
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Before traveling by taxi in foreign (or even domestic) locations, ask a local (perhaps stopping in shops to question the sales staff) what the approximate taxi fare would be to a particular location. They've always been pleased to help me. In this manner, I can avoid paying the inflated tourist rates!

— Carol P. McCrea
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Air Travel
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Even if you're not hungry when the flight attendant comes around with the snack service, take it for later. Although peanuts may not look appetizing at 7 a.m., they will look good later if you have nothing better to eat. And it saves you from picking up something at expensive airport shops.

— Fran Rifkin
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If you're traveling with someone, discuss a central meeting place in case you get separated. My husband and I were in Paris waiting to board the Metro. He was able to board the train, but I was left behind on the platform. Having a plan saved both time and needless anxiety.

— Marian Moss
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Car Rentals
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Whenever I know I'll be renting a car, I pack a couple of folded paper towels and two small spray bottles--one filled with window cleaner and the other with Rain-X, a product that repels raindrops. It's hard enough driving an unfamiliar car in an unfamiliar location. At least with a clean windshield I'm able to see properly, no matter the weather.

— Ed Rainer
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374275

You can enjoy free airport-area parking by staying the night before departure at an airport hotel or motel that offers park-and-fly rates. The cost of that overnight (which usually entitles you to two weeks of parking) is much less than what you'd otherwise pay at an airport parking lot.

— Mike Saloudek
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Shopping
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When my husband and I visit places like India or Thailand, we pack only one extra change of clothes. When we arrive, we hit a local market and buy local attire--woven shirts, saris, sarongs, etc. Not only does this make packing easier, but we get a better cultural experience and end up with lots of wearable souvenirs!

— Alice Fraser

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