The Secret Hotels of Santa Fe

Why get tourist-trapped by a dud when you can stay in one of these authentic New Mexican digs?

Santa Fe hotels are the most expensive in the Southwest, but America's second-oldest city is not without bargains. You just have to compromise a little, and the trade-offs are usually pretty clear. Either stay at a generic cookie-cutter several miles from the historic Plaza (where all the good shops, restaurants, and museums are), or choose a place with more character that's near the action but has small rooms or an uninspired atmosphere.

You can also save money by avoiding the summer high season. Winter in Santa Fe is chilly but serene--you'll have the entire city to yourself, and rates drop by as much as 75 percent. Spring and fall are the most pleasant times to visit. They're temperate, sunny, ideal for hiking and photography, and, compared with summer, typically 10 percent to 30 percent cheaper. Unless otherwise noted, prices in this article are for spring and fall and include a private bath and phone.

La Tienda Inn and Duran House 445 W. San Francisco St., 800/889-7611, latiendabb.com/, from $115

 You probably wouldn't stumble on these dapper century-old houses by accident, even though they're but a five-minute stroll west of the Plaza. This stretch of one of Santa Fe's oldest streets is mostly residential, except for a terrific piano bar and steak house, Vanessie, across the street. La Tienda ("the store") comprises what had been an old bodega plus two stunningly restored territorial-style (a local version of Spanish-colonial) houses. Rates vary seasonally and by room size, but even the top-end units (with kiva fireplaces) won't set you back more than $165 in spring and fall. All 13 rooms overflow with well-chosen Mexican and Southwestern antiques and newer handcrafted pieces. Continental breakfast is included.

El Paradero 220 W. Manhattan Ave., 505/988-1177, http://www.elparadero.com/, from $85

 Simple but not downscale, El Paradero is one of the least expensive small inns in town. It's on the south edge of the trendy Guadalupe District (known for cool cafes and home-furnishings shops), a 10-minute walk from the Plaza. An early-1800s Spanish farmhouse, it's fitted with Mexican pine furniture, handwoven rugs and tapestries, folk art, and Saltillo tiles. Alas, there are no grounds to speak of, except a small, sunny patio. But you get a substantial full breakfast and afternoon tea as part of the deal.

Silver Saddle Motel 2810 Cerrillos Rd., 505/471-7663, from $39

With a low-slung adobe exterior decked with wagon wheels, the campy Silver Saddle transcends the divey yesteryear-motel genre. Sure, the carpets are a bit faded and the walls razor thin, and Santa Fe's only strip club is across Cerrillos Road. But there's a kitschy, fun-loving swagger about the place. Most rooms are named for icons of the West (Annie Oakley, Wyatt Earp) and contain plaques with colorful biographies. Funky touches include Talvera-tile bathrooms, serape tapestries, built-in bancos (adobe-style benches), and equipale (Mexican pigskin) chairs. The city's seminal Wild West gift emporium, Jackalope, is next door.

Hotel St. Francis 210 Don Gaspar Ave., 800/529-5700, hotelstfrancis.com, from $80

One of the Southwest's most dashing old-world hotels, the St. Francis opened in the early '20s and fills up fast, thanks to low rates and a super-central location just a block from the Plaza. The least expensive rooms are small and functional, with cherry and oak reproduction antiques and brass or iron beds. A big draw here is the stunning and cavernous lobby, with its soaring ceilings, comfy sofas and armchairs, and elaborate red-tile work. The adjacent bar is a favorite hangout with the twenty-and thirtysomething set.

Pecos Trail Inn 2239 Old Pecos Trail, 505/982-1943, from $79

Strangely, Santa Fe has very few lodging options in the scenic foothills on the east side of town. This homey motor lodge is the rare exception, and its rooms are surprisingly bright and cheery, with beamed ceilings, hand-carved Mexican and Southwestern furniture, tile floors, and earthy palettes. You can't actually see much from your room, but the pool and grounds afford brilliant views of the 14,000-foot Sangre de Cristo Mountains. A bonus: The festive restaurant, Chilacas, serves tasty, cheap grub and offers some innovative promotions--if you sit at the worst table in the house, you can spin the "wheel of chance" to see whether you'll get 50 percent off your bill (or, if fortune frowns, you'll owe $50).

Santa Fe Courtyard by Marriott 3347 Cerrillos Rd., 800/777-3347, santafecourtyard.com, from $79

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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The magnets you use on a refrigerator will also stick well to most hotel and motel room doors, turning them into makeshift bulletin boards. Post theater tickets, itineraries, reminder notes, and any other useful information, then grab what you need before you leave the room for the day.

— Karen Hartz
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The couple of hangers provided on cruise ships aren't enough for weeklong trips. So I save wire hangers from the dry cleaner and slip a few into our suitcases while packing. I then leave them behind for the next passenger.

— Wendy Maloney
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Carry a twist tie in your wallet. Among other ingenious uses, a twist tie can temporarily replace a lost screw on a pair of glasses. Just peel the paper or plastic off the tie so you have bare wire, insert it where the screw once was, and twist to tighten. Unlike Scotch tape or a safety pin, a twist tie is small enough to remain hidden and strong enough to hold until you're able to replace the screw.

— Suzanne Prendergast
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When traveling in the developing world, I always bring several packets of stickers to give to children. They're wonderful icebreakers.

— Linda Vogel
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Deli counters in grocery stores are great mealtime alternatives to restaurants or fast-food fare when you're exploring the United States. The food is fresh, there's a big variety (hot and cold), and economically, it's a great break. I recently had a complete hot meal, including beverage, for $3 from a grocery-store deli.

— Teresa G. Barcus
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When you're shopping for alcohol on any Caribbean island, ask if there's a Kmart nearby. Often the dis- counter is a short distance from the docks where the cruise ships tie up and has an extensive selection at prices lower than the liquor stores on the main drag. While you're there, pick up that extra roll of film or the sunscreen you forgot.

— Andrea Mansfield
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When my husband and I travel with our children, our luggage is weighed down by diapers, formula, and other necessities. To save space and hassle, we now ship ahead most of those items to our hotel. We also came across a Web site called babiestravellite.com, where we can order supplies and have them shipped anywhere in the world.

— Mina Camera
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If you're looking for authentic street food--whether you're in New York or Bangkok--don't buy from the pitifully lonely vendor who has no customers. Head to the cart with the longest line of hungry people in front of it. Locals know which vendors serve the best (and safest) food. Even if you have to wait, your stomach will thank you.

— Bryan Thao Worra
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Sending a flat-rate Priority Mail box costs $8.10, no matter how much it weighs or which state it's going to. After accumulating too much stuff to fit in my suitcase during a trip to Atlanta, I filled a box with laundry, souvenirs, and gifts for my grandchildren, and mailed it to my home address.

— Eleanor Waterhouse
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Pack light, or that great deal you found on airfare won't seem that great. On a Ryanair flight between Glasgow and Dublin, my husband and I were charged over $100 for excess baggage weight (the airline tickets themselves cost less than half that). Be sure to check the weight limits—especially on low-fare airlines—before you leave home.

— Lynne Heath
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If you book a package over the Internet, print out all the details of what's included and take it with you. When a hotel desk clerk in Paris said that the breakfast buffet we had enjoyed for the previous seven mornings was not included in our package, I was able to show him the printouts and prove him wrong. He apologized profusely and wiped the breakfast charges from our bill.

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For our road trip through the English countryside, I printed out a detailed map for every location we wanted to visit from multimap.com. I labeled each map with the day we planned on using it and wrote down the interesting sites and places to eat along the way. I kept them all in a folder and added brochures from the places we saw. It was a great souvenir upon returning home.

— Karen Holt
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Ever since my children were small, I've carried recent, wallet-size pictures of them when we all go on vacation, in case we get separated. Now that they are teenagers and traveling with friends' families, too, I send pictures for the other family to bring along with them. I also write my telephone numbers on the back of the pictures so they know where to reach me in an emergency.

— Ruth Ann Newsum
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If you take an overnight flight to Europe and early check-in at your hotel isn't an option, ask the concierge if you can store your luggage until later in the day and use the hotel gym's shower. You'll be refreshed and ready for sightseeing. Pack toiletries and a change of clothes in your carry-on.

— Brian Huseman
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Here's an important tip for cruising in winter: Fly into the port a day or two before your ship is scheduled to depart. We booked a Costa Rican cruise but were stuck in New York, where all flights out of JFK airport were canceled. Itineraries that include stops in places with airports can allow people to catch up. Ours didn't.

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Destinationcoupons.com supplies free discount coupons for cities all over the United States and the world. Print them out on your home computer and save on hotels, shows, rental cars, restaurants, and many other activities.

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Therm-a-Rest's Compressible Pillow is perfect for the plane. It comes in three sizes, packs smaller and expands bigger than any other pillow, and is machine washable. Whenever I pull mine out of my carry-on, I get jealous stares: People always ask where they can get one. REI sells the pillows for $18 to $25, depending on the size (rei.com).

— Sheila Lauber
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Travel soap dishes--the colorful plastic ones that have hinged lids--stop small, fragile items from getting damaged or lost in your bags. I can easily label and use them again and again and again.

— Revon Wolf
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If you're packing a lunch to eat later in the day, freeze a 16-ounce water bottle and pack it, along with yogurt, cottage cheese, a ham sandwich, or whatever in a light- weight, insulated bag. Your snacks will remain cold, and you can drink the water.

— Jackie McGraw
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If your vacation spot is a major port of call for cruise ships, plan excursions for the days that the ships aren't docked. Tours will be less crowded, and you'll get to see and do a lot more.

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To find the perfect destination with airfare that meets your budget, try Travelocity's Dream Maps travel tool (travelocity.com). Select a maximum fare and a type of destination (city, national park, etc.) and the Web site will display a variety of trips matching that description.

— Matt Vance
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My daughter and I bought disposable digital camcorders at a CVS pharmacy before going to Europe. It was a nice way to document our trip--each camera stored about 20 minutes of video. Once home, we dropped the cameras off at the pharmacy. The next day, our DVD was ready. We were very pleased with the quality and the cost: $30 for the camera and $13 for each DVD.

— Maria B. Murad
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For the most comprehensive information regarding travel by train or by ship, check out seat61.com. I've found that the site has all sorts of helpful advice for Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Middle East.

— Kay Bozich Owens
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Don't save the best for the last day. If you wait until the end of your trip for "must-do" activities, you won't be able to reschedule if something unforeseen happens. I planned a snorkeling excursion for my final day in San Diego, but the waters were too rough, and the trip had to be canceled.

— Melissa Coplak
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After looking for years for the perfect toiletries bag and being frustrated by many that were less than ideal, I finally discovered one that is just right: a soft-sided lunch box I bought at the supermarket. It has an outer zipped pocket with small compartments and slots perfect for often-used items like a toothbrush and toothpaste. There's a small removable zipper pouch inside (meant for a small ice pack) for those smaller, hard-to-find items like nail files and pill bottles. The remaining space inside is just right for larger items like shampoo and hand lotion. Other helpful features include both a small handle and shoulder strap and a waterproof, easy-to-clean interior. As an elementary school teacher, I know firsthand that it'll last: It was designed to withstand daily use by kids!

— Jennifer Minton
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If you have to save receipts while traveling, purchase a plastic coupon holder to help you keep track of them (it'll also protect them). Label each section of the coupon holder by category (hotel, rental car, gas, food, etc.) or by day of the week. The coupon holders are compact and easily fit into a laptop case, purse, or travel bag.

— Ursalene Davis
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Many tourist information offices provide discounted same-day booking services for local lodgings. My husband and I discovered this when we accidentally left a midweek gap in our travel plans between my husband's conference hotel and our B&B in Charleston. Instead of adding another night at either location, we stayed at one of the more elegant inns (normally over $200) for $70, courtesy of the Charleston Convention and Visitors Bureau.

— Audrey E. Vance
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You can enjoy free airport-area parking by staying the night before departure at an airport hotel or motel that offers park-and-fly rates. The cost of that overnight (which usually entitles you to two weeks of parking) is much less than what you'd otherwise pay at an airport parking lot.

— Mike Saloudek
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Try to book the first flight out in the morning, because those planes often arrive at the airport the evening before. You won't have to rely on an incoming plane, which could be delayed or canceled due to bad weather elsewhere, resulting in your own flight being delayed or canceled.

— George Glover
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Treat yourself to a golf-ball foot massage. During a long flight, or afterward in your hotel room, take off your shoes, put a golf ball on the floor, and roll it under your foot. It's a great stress reliever. Practice a bit before you try it on a plane, so that your ball doesn't go rolling down the cabin, tripping up unsuspecting passengers.

— Dawn Yadlosky

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