Harborside Hideaways of Maine

From normal to downright quirky, all at good prices

Finding a reasonable room near Maine's waterways is challenging; finding one with more than motel-quality character is nearly impossible. But such gems do exist, although some are only open in the summer. Here are our favorites, south to north.

Paths lace the landscaped grounds of St. Anthony's Monastery, in Kennebunk, meandering through woodlands, gardens, and outdoor chapels along the town's river. Visitors to its Franciscan Guest House, founded by monks who fled war-torn Lithuania in 1947, enjoy away-from-it-all serenity, yet are within walking distance of bustling Dock Square and the beach. Rooms, all with private baths, are spread out among five buildings, including Tudor-style homes and a former dorm, and share use of the saltwater pool. Although there's no daily maid service, fresh towels are provided.

Family-run since 1932, Maine Idyll Motor Court is actually three miles west of the coast, but it's also three miles north of Freeport (and L.L. Bean's mother ship). That location, and its low prices, make it a good base. These tidy one-to-three-bedroom, white-clapboard cabins have pine interiors accented by a hint of wood smoke, and many have fireplaces and kitchenettes. They're holdovers from the days when such colonies dotted America's highways.

Originally built as a lifesaving station in 1883, the beachfront Popham Beach Bed and Breakfast, at the mouth of the Kennebunk River in Phippsburg, later housed the Coast Guard until it was decommissioned in 1971. A bit pricier than its competition, it's worth the splurge to fall asleep to the rhythmic lapping of waves, wake up with a walk on the six-mile-long sands, or climb the inn's tower for views to the Seguin Island beacon.

Start the day with a dip at the waterfront Mill Pond Inn, a restored 1780 colonial in sleepy Damariscotta Mills. The village, which also fronts the 14-mile-long Damariscotta Lake, is a good base for towns such as Boothbay Harbor, Rockland, and Camden, or the galleries and antiques shops of the adjacent Pemaquid Peninsula. Innkeeper Bobby Whear is licensed with the state as a professional guide and offers fishing trips and scenic tours in his restored lapstrake boat.

Damariscotta sits at the peninsula's northern end, but Pemaquid Point Lighthouse, depicted on the Maine quarter and in countless cal-endars, anchors the southern tip. Although it lacks a view, the Hotel Pemaquid is less than 200 yards away (close enough that the foghorn can lose its romantic appeal). Antiques fill the lobby and small guest rooms in the Victorian main hotel, and they accent the more spacious rentals in the adjacent cottages and motel. Pemaquid Beach, Fort William Henry, and lobster shacks (where a feast of a one-pound lobster and a bag of steamers starts at $12) are nearby.

With its white-iron bedsteads, vintage dressers, and gauzy curtains, the Ocean House, in tiny Port Clyde, evokes the essence of a Maine summer hotel. Most rooms have views of the picturesque harbor. Stroll to the early mail boat for Monhegan Island and take a day trip or, with a little more effort, walk over to the Marshall Point Lighthouse.

The huge deck of the Inn on the Harbor, in Stonington, juts over the sea, providing a perfect spot to watch lobstermen, the Isle au Haut mail boat, and occasional windjammers. Rooms, some with fireplaces or private decks, are spread among four Victorian buildings that retain facades as unadorned as Stonington itself. Spring for a harbor-facing room; those on the street can be noisy.

The jaw-dropping vista down Somes Sound, the only fjord on America's east coast, is the calling card of The Moorings Inn, in yacht-packed Southwest Harbor. This pretty village on the quiet side of Mount Desert Island is about 20 minutes southwest of Bar Harbor and the start of Acadia National Park's famed Park Loop. Inn rooms are comfortably cluttered with antiques; motel rooms have decks; and the cottages, which cost $10 to $45 more, have fireplaces, kitch-ens, and the most privacy.

Oceanside Meadows Inn, in Prospect Harbor, includes a former sea captain's home and sits on 200 acres of beach, woods, and marsh. From late June until late September the enthusiastic innkeepers also book concerts (classical to jazz) and environmental lectures in a renovated barn. Their elegant breakfast emphasizes organic ingredients, many from the inn's gardens. Acadia National Park is nearby, as is a passenger ferry to Bar Harbor.

Well north of the beaten path in rural Maine is the 110-acre riverfront Pleasant Bay Bed and Breakfast and Llama Keep, in Addison. Light-filled rooms flow from one into another at the Cape-style inn. From your window, you can watch the river ebb and flow with the tide. The owners raise llamas and red deer--so you might help feed the herds or even stroll the two miles of paths by Pleasant Bay with only a llama for company.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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Packing
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Pack a power strip and extension cord for your next cruise. Many cruise-ship cabins have only one out- let, but you'll definitely need more if you want to power up your laptop, iPod, cell phone, electric razor, hairdryer, or any other gadgets you bring on board.

— Jay Van Vechten
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Photography
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Many computer photo albums use camera date stamps to organize collections. Whenever you're traveling in a time zone that might affect the date stamp (if you're crossing the International Date Line, for example), remember to reset your camera's clock.

— Michael Gray
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Packing
385276

Baby wipes aren't just for babies. Slip a travel-size pack into your carry-on bag and use the wipes to kill germs on public toilet seats and in phone booths. In a pinch, they can also remove stubborn stains from clothing.

— Farrah Farhang
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Safety
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Don't be afraid to go to a foreign pharmacy. I forgot to pack my prescription medication on a recent trip to France. When my problem acted up, I went to a local pharmacy. (Look for the green cross.) The pharmacist provided my medication without a prescription and at a fraction of what it would have cost in the United States. In fact, one could benefit by stocking up abroad on medications that would normally be acquired at home at a much higher price.

— Mainard Tom
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Air Travel
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Finding healthy breakfast alternatives at an airport can prove difficult. I always travel with an insulated travel mug. Before leaving home I fill it with a high-protein cereal and then request low-fat milk on the flight.

— Randy Hartselle
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Safety
444324

I agree that the anti-seasickness medication for cruises, Bonine, is excellent and effective; but there is a budget way to buy it. The primary ingredient in Bonine is meclizine (25 mg). While a package of eight Bonine tablets costs just over $4 at a drugstore, you can buy a bottle of 100 generic meclizine (25 mg) for about the same price. This is an over-the-counter (no prescription needed) item, but you usually have to ask for it at the pharmacy counter.

— Lila Held
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Family Travel
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If your children are old enough to dress themselves, consider this packing tip: Put each outfit (including socks and underwear) into a Ziploc bag and pack one bag for each day you'll be on vacation. It will save both time and aggravation, and may even prevent items from getting left behind.

— Robert E. Jones
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Packing
383252

I always pack several tea lights, a small vial of essential oils, and matches. Tea lights, when placed in a water glass for extra safety, banish stale or unpleasant smells in hotel rooms. The essential oils work wonders when a drop is placed on a warm lightbulb.

— Stephanie Hartselle
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Cruises
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Don't assume you can save a spot at the pool with your towel. Cruise lines give you one pool towel at the start of the cruise. If you don't have it (or a cleaned trade-in) at the end, you'll get charged. If you let it out of your sight, you run the risk of losing it or having it stolen by a fellow cruiser.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Cruises
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Cruise lines offer packaged side trips at their ports of call. If you go online and look for these expeditions ahead of time, you can book directly with the tour companies and save money.

— Cindy Rucker
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Air Travel
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On a Northwest flight from Wichita to Cleveland, a piece of my luggage was delivered more than a day after I arrived. In the meantime, I had to buy some replacement items. Save your receipts! I turned in the receipts when I checked in for the return flight, and the ticket agent issued me a $50 check.(Northwest allows up to $50 in interim expenses for the first 24 hours, and $25 for each day afterward, with a maximum reimbursement of $150.)

— Phil Richard
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Packing
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Attach a few carabiners--the kind of clips rock climbers use--to the top of your wheeled suitcase. Purses, cameras, and shopping bags can be clipped to your suitcase, giving your hands and shoulders a rest while you're walking around the airport.

— Kathryn Murphy
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Air Travel
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As a flight attendant, I'm always amazed by the stuff that people leave behind. Most of it never gets back to its rightful owner because there's no way of knowing who the owner is. To avoid misplacing your property, put things back into your carry-on after using them--never on the floor or in the seat-back pocket. Label important items like books or games with return address labels so they can be sent back to you if found.

— Doug Hummell
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Hotels
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Rather than automatically using your hotel's valet parking, you should check to see if there's an adjacent parking lot or garage that offers a better rate. On a recent trip, I was able to park across the street from my hotel for $10 per day--versus $27 per day to valet park with the hotel.

— Charles LaFleur
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Safety
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A padlocked zipper tells thieves there's something in your bag worth stealing, but a key ring is much less obvious. Just use it to latch together the zippers. Best of all, you'll never have to worry about forgetting your combination.

— France Freeman
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Planning
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Before traveling overseas, look at your health insurance card. If it only shows an 800 or 888 number for precertification of hospital admissions, call that number and obtain the local number with an area code. Many 800 numbers can't be dialed from foreign countries. I learned this the hard way during an emergency hospital admission in Switzerland. The delay in reaching my carrier could have been avoided.

— Chris Carveth
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Hotels
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If you can't sleep due to the heat in your non-air-conditioned hotel room, take a cold bottle of water and place it on your pillow, in the crook of your neck. It will cool your whole body down.

— Tony van Hasselt
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Packing
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Always carry peanut butter. A plastic jar is easy to pack, doesn't need refrigeration, is a great source of protein, and makes a quick, cheap meal when coupled with local bread. (But don't forget to pack a plastic knife for spreading it.)

— Nancy Norman
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Packing
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Every year, I get address labels from numerous charitable organizations. I keep them with me when traveling because it's the quickest way to provide my address to new friends, enter prize drawings at shops, sign guest books, etc. It's not only efficient; it can also help spread the word about worthwhile charities.

— Carole Wilk
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Restrooms abroad rarely have hooks on stall doors. Our solution: Pack a small S hook in your shoulder bag and make use of a hole in the wall, a pipe, etc., to hang purses, jackets, or anything else you want to keep off the floor. S hooks can be found in most hardware stores, near the screws and bolts.

— Arthur and Marie Lloyd
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Cruises
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Internet phone services like Vonage can be programmed to send transcribed voice mails to your email in-box. That way, you can check your home answering machine quickly at an Internet cafe without paying insane roaming fees on your cell. The transcriptions won't always be perfect, but you'll get the gist.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Air Travel
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Treat yourself to a golf-ball foot massage. During a long flight, or afterward in your hotel room, take off your shoes, put a golf ball on the floor, and roll it under your foot. It's a great stress reliever. Practice a bit before you try it on a plane, so that your ball doesn't go rolling down the cabin, tripping up unsuspecting passengers.

— Dawn Yadlosky
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Planning
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Before booking your next ski trip or reserving a table for dinner, find out what your credit card company has to offer. American Express sometimes has discounts on lift tickets; MasterCard has offered buy-one-get-one-free at local restaurants; and Discover Card has access to deals to Universal Studios. Check out americanexpress.com/offerzone, mastercard.com (be sure to click on Promotions), and discovercard.com.

— Connie A. Yu
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Air Travel
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The middle seat isn't always awful. On a recent trip overseas, I called too late to confirm an aisle or window seat. After explaining the plane's AB-CDEFG-HI configuration, the customer service agent urged me to take the very middle seat, E, because D and F have less foot room. (In some rows, there are metal boxes underneath the seats in front of you that house wiring for onboard electronics.) I went along with her advice somewhat skeptically, but I ended up with plenty of room. The people on either side of me weren't so lucky.

— Audrey Ting
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Packing
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When you travel to a beach destination, bring your own snorkel gear. We bought snorkels, masks, and fins at home for half-off (at an end-of-summer sale) before a trip to Hawaii. They didn't take up much room in our luggage, and we would have spent as much or more renting the equipment.

— Keely McNerney
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Transportation
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A bike tour will offer a good introduction to a place, and you'll cover much more ground than if you were on foot. In Buenos Aires, for example, Lan & Kramer Bike Tours (biketours.com.ar) has a few guided itineraries that are fun for all ages and abilities.

— Meda Florin
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Air Travel
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We were told by an airport security official to tape a business card onto the cover of our laptop. Turns out he has an average of six laptop computers left behind each day! There are so many more procedures now--removing shoes, removing coats--that people forget when they send their laptop through in a separate bin. The official added that it's very difficult to return them because most laptops have passwords that keep the owners' personal information hidden.

— Liz Nealon
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Packing
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An extra contact lens case holds enough toiletries for a short trip. Squeeze a few dabs of toothpaste into one side and perhaps some facial cleanser or moisturizer in the other side. Just the right amount of each will fit for your overnights or weekends away.

— Jen Shoemaker
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Packing
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To ensure the studs of pierced and delicate earrings don't get damaged, I put them in a film canister. An added benefit is that they're less likely to be stolen when left in a suitcase or hotel room, because thieves presume there's nothing inside but film.

— Alison Taylor Fastov
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Air Travel
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Before you head to the airport, make a list of all the items in your checked luggage that would be prohibited in your carry-on. If an item (such as a knife for a picnic) makes its way into your purse or daypack during your travels, it should be accounted for when repacking and put into the checked piece to avoid hassles at airport security.

— Nina Gormley

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