Kerala, South India

Tell your friends you're going to Kerala and they ask, "Where is it?" Mention Kerala is in India and they gasp, "It's dangerous there." But India's worrisome problems are for the most part in the north (in Kashmir), and Kerala is well over a thousand miles away. The lush, lovely, and incredibly cheap Indian state of Kerala, on the subcontinent's southwestern tip, is one of the most peaceful places on the planet.

First-time tourists to India typically seek out the Taj Mahal in Agra, the bustling, chaotic cities of Delhi and Mumbai (Bombay), and awe-inspiring temples in Madurai and Varanasi. But from the high mountains of the Western Ghats to the lush coastal plain, Kerala is as beautiful, dramatic, and exotic as anyplace on earth. Here is a destination that usually lives up to its nickname, "God's own country." Perhaps Kerala's greatest attraction is its people, from children who race along the backwater cruises calling out to tourists, to helpful strangers who make sure you get the right bus even if they miss their own.

City streets in Kerala are a hodgepodge of auto-rickshaws, bikes, taxis, wildly painted lorries, and an occasional elephant. Its peaceful hills boast of wildlife, tea, and spice estates. Kerala has attracted travelers since biblical times, but was discovered by hippies in the Sixties and Seventies as a peaceful haven, and these days it draws a fair number of Aussies, Europeans, and Americans-in-the-know. Visitors come to loll under the palms beside golden beaches or cruise its labyrinth of backwaters. You can also get a sense of the ancient East with an Ayurvedic massage or a yoga session (both of which are thought to have originated in Kerala more than 5,000 years ago). The famous Kathakali dance drama is still performed here, as it was more than 1,000 years ago.

And talk about cheap! Thanks to the favorable exchange rate (almost 48 rupees to the dollar), hotels that go for $5 to $15 a night are as plentiful as the coconuts on the trees. Backpackers love the $1 beach huts and $2 lodges (lodging prices listed below are the total for two persons traveling together, so singles can expect to pay even less). A typical veg thali (a sampling of vegetable dishes served on a platter) costs $1 or less in a small cafe, and an all-you-can-eat buffet at a glamorous hotel runs $7. In most of Kerala, it is easy to get by on about $20 a day. Be warned, though -- prices on just about everything go up in peak season (December and January in particular).

Transportation within India is proportionately just as inexpensive. Buses are crowded, noisy, and cheap, but score a window seat and you might get a free show -- perhaps an elephant or two sharing the highway. Metered auto-rickshaws charge 8¢ minimum per kilometer (though meters are rarely used). Bargaining gets you a fair fare -- a good rule is to cut any offer in half to start the haggling, and be patient. For big spenders, a car and driver around town costs $20 a day. Bargaining when you shop (except at fixed-price emporiums) gets you beautiful buys in Kerala's rosewood and brass crafts.

How we'll be dealing with Kerala

The sights and rewarding locations in Kerala are countless, but to keep this article to manageable length, we've reduced them to five: the beach resorts of Kovalam and Varkala, the two major cities of Thiruvananthapuram (better known as Trivandrum) and Kochi (Cochin), and last but not least, the popular backwater cruise through a labyrinth of canals, lagoons, and villages. Visitors with extra time will want to spend a day or two at the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary. Set aside at least two weeks for an exploration of Kerala, including four or five days at the beach and a few days in Kochi. (Thiruvananthapuram is a commercial city where you won't want to stay over, though it's worth a day trip.)

Getting around in Kerala (or throughout India, for that matter) is not as easy as in Europe or North America, but the average visitor finds things without much of a problem. English is widely spoken, and most signs are in English and the local language Malayalam. Few streets have names, so addresses for hotels and restaurants are rare (when available, we list addresses and phone numbers). For general information about Kerala, including hotels, tour operators, and cultural customs and tidbits you should be aware of (there are many, including dressing conservatively and never using your left hand in social interactions), visit keralatourism.org. Another good tourist source is the Kerala Tourism Development Corporation, or KTDC (011-91/471-2318976, ktdc.com), which arranges lodging, tours, and packages. To call the Indian numbers listed in this article from the United States, first dial 011-91.

Getting there from here

From Mumbai, you have a choice of carriers flying into the state of Kerala. Jet Airways (866/835-9538, jetairways.com) operates three flights daily to Kochi for $302 round trip and one to Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) for $387 round trip.

Beginning at the beach: Kovalam

A selection of inexpensive hotels are found in the little lanes off Lighthouse Beach. Sumangali Tourist Home and Achuta Lodge (471/2481021), steps off Lighthouse Beach, has pin-neat rooms with baths for $3 to $15; the higher-priced ones have sea-facing sit-outs (balconies). Tiny, tidy Seaside Cottages (471/2481937), located right on the beach, has simple rooms with baths for $4. Sitting high on a rocky outcrop, Hotel Rockholm (Lighthouse Rd., 471/2480306, fax 471/2480607, rockholm.com) has tasteful rooms with balconies and marvelous views priced at $27 to $30. The Rockholm also has an excellent restaurant with most items going for $1 to $5.