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Aspen for All Seasons

To most Americans, glamorous Aspen, Colorado, is known for prices higher than the 14,000-foot peaks that surround it. But in fact, some of Aspen's very best attractions are free of charge: hiking and live music in summer, cross-country skiing in winter. Furthermore, quiet arrangements and discreet discounts are mumbled under the breath of just about everyone you meet. Here are a few ways you can enjoy the nation's priciest mountains for a sensible sum.

Key budget decision

As with most things, timing is everything. You can cut your lodging costs 20 to 60 percent or more by avoiding both the holiday season (mid-December to early January) and winter in general (Thanksgiving through the end of March). Summer (June, July, and August) sees 25 to 40 percent off holiday rates; autumn (September through November) finds prices less than half the high-season tag and the mountains at their prettiest.

The least expensive visits are from tour operators that combine airfare, hotel, and activities. "You'll always do better with a five-night, midweek package," says Dana Flach, vice president of operations at Daman-Nelson Travel (800/321-2754, skirun.com), a big California wholesaler. For January stays, she offers "Affordable Aspen," consisting of round-trip airfare to Aspen, hotel with breakfast for five nights, four days' lift tickets, and an apres-ski party each night for $789 per person from Los Angeles, $810 from Chicago, $879 from Atlanta, and $890 from New York. For the autumn months, her best-selling "Aspen Gold" includes airfare and five nights' lodging for $530 from Los Angeles, $550 from Chicago, $620 from Atlanta, and $630 from New York.

Unless you buy a package, flying directly into Aspen can be costly. But you may be able to get to nearby Denver cheaply (using one of the big airfare search engines) and then rent a car in Denver from a variety of rental firms for a four- or five-hour drive through glorious countryside to Aspen. Thrifty (800/847-4389, thrifty.com), for example, charges about $160 for the week. If you drive, get a parking permit from your hotel and leave the auto in its lot-street parking is pricey in Aspen.

Once in Aspen, you can walk just about anywhere in town. For speedier locomotion, bring a bike or rent one from Ajax Bike and Sports (635 E. Hyman Ave., 970/925-7662) for $25 per 24-hour period, including helmet and lock. The town is very bicycle friendly.

Buses in Aspen are free. But it costs $2 to use the bike rack on the front of the bus and $1 if you want Dial-a-Ride front-door pickup service in the Mountain Valley neighborhood. Otherwise, the Roaring Fork Transit Authority (RFTA) boasts you can reach all points in Aspen using the bus system-for nothing. RFTA's Rubey Park Transportation Center (Durant Ave., between Galena and Mill Sts., 970/925-8484, rfta.com) is right downtown, just one block from the Silver Queen Gondola. Most routes leave from there, and schedules are posted. In winter, they have racks mounted on vehicles to carry skis.

Before you leave home, be sure to print coupons good for 10 to 20 percent off on activities, lodging, and more from conciergeguide.com. Also, Aspen merchants hate to admit it, but they're willing to "deal" to fill up a snowmobile tour or rent those last spaces on a white-water rafting trip.

Lodging

Aspen's Central Reservations (888/649-5982, stayaspensnowmass.com) has a "virtual hostel" Web page showing last-minute specials on hotels and condos for two weeks from the date you log on. For example, the Prospector Luxury Condominiums (301 E. Hyman Ave., 800/522-4525) recently advertised units for $75 per night on the virtual hostel page. The normal published rates for the same units are $150 in the autumn and as high as $375 during the holiday season.

If you're willing to share a dorm room with strangers and use a bathroom down the hall, you can sleep within walking distance of the Aspen Mountain chair lifts during peak holiday season for as little as $44 per night. The St. Moritz Lodge Hostel (334 W. Hyman Ave., 800/817-2069, stmoritzlodge.com) isn't fancy, but it is clean and well appointed, and rates are even lower in spring, summer, and fall.

During the warmer months, your least expensive option is camping just outside of Aspen in one of four Forest Service campgrounds that charge $15 per site per night, plus a reservation fee of $9 (there is a five-day-stay limit). All are within six miles of Aspen, and three can be reached by riding the free bus system. Each site has a picnic table, fire grate, and nearby drinking water and pit toilets. Most supply a spectacular view of the high peaks. Reserve at least four days in advance online at reserveusa.com or by calling 877/444-6777. The campgrounds are closed in the winter.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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