Hiking the Grand Canyon

No, it's not for couch potatoes, but you don't have to be a 20-year-old triathlete, either. Best of all, it's doable without digging too deep into the old pocket

It's a piece of cake," said Grand Canyon National Park Ranger Pam Cox. Her face a giant smile, she was making a gung-ho try at bolstering our courage for the rigorous 9.6-mile hike we faced the next morning. Having descended to famed Phantom Ranch at the very bottom of the Arizona canyon the day before - the first leg of a three-day, five-star adventure on a tightwad's budget - we now had to climb back out again. The South Rim, our goal, towered high above. Way way above. Maybe for her it's no big deal, I thought. She's done it dozens of times. But what about all of us first-timers? Entering the canyon, we had taken the shorter (7.2-mile) but much steeper South Kaibab Trail, and my upper thighs still screamed in pain from the experience. Outbound, we planned to climb Bright Angel Trail, more than two miles longer but reputedly less demanding. Still, I was more than a little worried about whether my legs and lungs were up to the task, and I suspect so were many other hikers gathered for Cox's after-dinner chat under the stars. In the quiet, we could hear the mighty Colorado River spilling over the rapids just down the path.

Obviously I made it to the top, or I wouldn't have written this story. And, no, it wasn't really a piece of cake; Cox (as we all suspected) had exaggerated. Though the trail begins with an easy and spectacularly scenic mile-long hike along the Colorado, the real ascent turned out to be a slow, sweaty, 6 1/2-hour slog (with half a dozen time-outs to recoup our strength). But despite causing aching muscles, the climb also proved to be an ego-boosting climax to an adventure of a lifetime, played out to one of the most beautiful backdrops in America.

The descent to Phantom Ranch (or to Bright Angel campground)

For anyone who relishes outdoor challenges, no self-guided adventure anywhere rates as more rewarding - or cheaper-than a rim-to-river (and back) hike in the Grand Canyon. Just think how many friends you can amaze by telling them: "I hiked to the bottom of the Grand Canyon."

In her pep talk, Cox pointed out that five million people visit the Grand Canyon annually. But fewer than one percent ever get to the bottom, a mile below the rim, where the views - up close and intimate - appear even more awesome. This near wilderness can be reached only by raft, mule, or afoot. Raft and mule trips (I've done both) cost hundreds of dollars; hiking sets you back next to nothing. Better yet, going on foot turned out to be more satisfying because I did it on my own power. We hikers sort of turn up our noses at the mule-back softies.

From the moment I stepped over the rim, the South Kaibab Trail treated me to nonstop views of multicolored rocks in fantastical shapes: soaring pinnacles, flat-topped buttes, sawtooth ridges, and sheer cliff walls. Though no geologist, even I could spot the dramatic change in rock formations as I descended deeper into the chasm. Far below, the racing Colorado, a vivid green, marked the day's goal. Though distracted by grand vistas, I watched where I walked. The trail clings to the edge of precipitous drop-offs as it zigzags in countless switchbacks down the face of a canyon wall. A stumble could be disastrous.

Part of the fun of this trip is staying at Phantom Ranch, an oasis in the arid canyon depths. A historic national park lodge built in the 1920s, it stands in a shady cottonwood grove alongside Bright Angel Creek, a tumbling Colorado tributary. With Jack Hawes, an old college buddy from California, I planned two nights there, giving us a day to relax between the hike in and out. So how did we relax? We hiked the gentle trail that winds through the narrow, steep-walled gorge traced by Bright Angel Creek. At age 65, we both keep fit - I run five miles almost daily; he's a demon on an exercise bicycle - but we weren't taking chances.

Canyon costs

The hike itself costs nothing, and guidance and commentary from the National Park Rangers is of course similarly free. This, combined with the cheap rates at Phantom Ranch, makes this adventure affordable for almost anyone in decent shape. A friendly, low-key retreat, the lodge accommodates a maximum of 88 people-either in small stone-and-log cabins (48 guests) or in four ten-bunk dormitories (40 guests) - two dorms each for males and females. The cabins rent for $71 a night for two people, not a bad price considering their unique setting. But folks on the mule trips get most of them. The dorms, where we stowed our packs, are reserved for hikers. The $25.50-per-person rate includes bed linens and a towel. Each dorm boasts a hot shower, sink, and toilet.

Not cheap enough? If you're willing to rough it, Bright Angel Campground (928/638-7875), adjacent to the ranch, caters to serious hikers able to tote tent, sleeping bag, food, and cooking gear. That's in addition to drinking water, energy bars and other trail snacks, toiletries, and extra clothing we dorm-bound hikers carried. The campground offers 33 sites, available to a maximum of 90 campers a night. The cost is $5 per person a night, plus a $10 permit for each site.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Before you book a room over the phone, peruse the hotel's site for its "Web only" rate. It's often cheaper than the best quote you'll get by calling. Recently, over the phone, I was quoted a daily rate of $129. I booked the same room online for $89.

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Scuba-diving vacations can get expensive. As I start planning a trip, I call one of the local PADI dive shops and ask the employees about accommodations nearby. They give me hotel connections I couldn't find on my own, and I often save enough to pay for my dives.

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When I go on a trip that requires me to accessorize a number of outfits, I buy little Ziploc bags and place the appropriate jewelry/panty hose/scarf inside. Then I punch a hole just big enough to slide the bag over the outfit's hanger. This way, my panty hose stay snag-free and my jewelry never gets misplaced.

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I work for a major airline and can attest to this tip for redirecting lost luggage. Place a copy of your itinerary--including contact info for where you're staying--inside your checked suitcase. If name and flight tags are missing, we'll still know where your bag needs to go.

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Spring skiing often means a wild temperature shift from morning to afternoon. If you want the option of removing outer layers or switching to a lighter ski jacket midday, attach the lift ticket to your clothing with a split-ring key ring. You'll be able to move your ticket as the weather warms up.

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Pack a couple of mountaineering carabiners. Clip one through the handle or strap of your bag and secure it to something solid wherever you may be (to a bench in the park or in a train station, to the railing of an overhead compartment on a bus, etc.).The carabiner adds a bit of security, especially if you're snoozing.

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Whenever I'm in a country where drinking or brushing my teeth with the tap water is a risk, I cover the faucet handles in my hotel bathroom with a towel. As a result, I never accidentally turn on the faucet when I'm half asleep.

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We're active travelers but find guided bike tours from companies like Backroads too expensive. Our advice: After rolling into town, ask at a bike shop for the best routes. Better yet, call or e-mail before you leave home (search the Web). We've found group rides and races this way, and have made a lot of friends. We're instant locals!

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Before leaving for a vacation, I print out all our reservations and directions, and I create a contact sheet for emergencies. Then I gather all the papers together, punch some holes, and place them in a folder that has a middle section for three–holed papers. The side pockets hold brochures, business cards, ticket stubs, receipts, and maps that we collect along the way and want to bring home for our scrapbook.

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Once we know where we're going, my girlfriends and I divide up the list of things we'd like to do on our trip and put someone in charge of each item on the list. Then that person does the legwork by finding directions and prices, making reservations (if necessary), and researching nearby places to stop for a snack or a meal. Our method means that no one person is doing all the planning.

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Put an address label on your one-time-use camera. At a Final Four game in Indianapolis, we exchanged identical Kodak Fun Savers with another traveler so that we could take souvenir photos of each other with our respective cameras. But afterward, we couldn't tell whose camera was whose. Luckily, I remembered how many exposures remained on mine, so we got ours back. Next time, I'll just label it.

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If the porters haven't delivered your luggage to your door by the first night of the cruise, check what our experts call the "naughty room." Security will store any bags containing contraband (like candles, alcohol, or coffeemakers) in this centralized location until you come claim it. You'll be able to pick up your bag on the first night, but banned items will not be returned until the end of the trip.

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Water-bottle holsters are good for more than holding water. I own several Water Bottle Totes by Outdoor Research (orgear.com). With their Velcro-like straps, I can fasten them anywher--to my belt, camera strap, fanny pack, purse, or airplane seat. I've used them at various times to carry my camera, binoculars, snacks, umbrella, battery-powered fan, flashlight, sunglasses, a windbreaker, and a rain poncho.

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When I travel with friends, we decide ahead of time who's going to bring what. If we're sharing a suite or have adjoining rooms, we don't need multiple hair dryers and umpteen bottles of shampoo. With the weight limits on baggage, we'll need the extra space in our suitcases for souvenirs!

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When planning a vacation, we send away for brochures from major tour operators. They provide hotel and restaurant recommendations and sightseeing itineraries, which we then duplicate on our own. Use this trick to mimic the vacation packages of high-end tour operators for what can turn out to be a fraction of the cost.

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Before you leave the United States, photocopy receipts for any expensive items you're taking with you. This way, you won't have to argue with customs on the way home about declaring items you didn't buy abroad. (I'm a photographer, and I always bring expensive cameras on vacations.)

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On my first trip to Cancun, I noticed that my hotel room had a damp, musty odor. The next time I went, I brought two plug-in air fresheners: one for the bedroom and one for the bathroom. This helped tremendously. It was a pleasure to walk in and have a fresh-smelling room. Just make sure you have an adapter, if you need one.

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Try to book the first flight out in the morning, because those planes often arrive at the airport the evening before. You won't have to rely on an incoming plane, which could be delayed or canceled due to bad weather elsewhere, resulting in your own flight being delayed or canceled.

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To save space, pack items for travel that you can use in at least two ways. In a pinch, shampoo can double for detergent when washing your clothes (carry the bottle in a Ziploc bag in your suitcase); sandals or flip-flops also function as slippers; and a swimsuit cover-up can serve as a bathrobe.

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After I was unable to locate any awards seats online for a wide selection of days and routes, I called the airline. An agent told me that the airline's Web site isn't allowed to book awards seats for its partner airlines, but agents can. Within minutes, I had enough options that I found it difficult to make a decision.

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I always pack a Petzl Tikka Plus headlamp. It's small, weighs next to nothing, and is perfect for reading in bed at night without disturbing my husband. They're sold online and at outdoor-gear stores for about $33.

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