On the trail 

Prehistoric peoples began carving the gentler Bright Angel Trail into the canyon walls. In the early 1900s, an entrepreneur claimed rights to it, charging a fee for its use. The National Park Service, ultimately successful in disputing the claim, built the South Kaibab Trail in 1925 to provide free public access into the canyon. Much of the route had to be blasted out of solid rock.

On a sunny November morning, the temperature at the South Rim trail head (elevation 7,000 feet) was an invigorating 59 degrees F. Both of us wore shorts, light shirt, and wide-brimmed hat; jackets (in case of snow) stayed in our packs. In switchbacks below, we could see the early birds ahead of us. Soon enough, I realized the Kaibab was going to be a test. Full of rocks and staircase steep, it forced us to pick our way slowly. As we dropped steadily, the temperature grew warmer. Ahead, Phantom Ranch at 2,400 feet promised a balmy 77 degrees.

Summer is the busiest hiking season, but Phantom temperatures can reach a scorching 110°, and heat exhaustion is a danger on the trail. Hiking weather is best in spring and fall. In winter, snow and ice are always possible at upper elevations. We carried strap-on cleats for our boots in case a surprise November storm hit.

Fifty minutes into our descent, we encountered a mule train packing out some of Phantom's previous night's guests. Joked one young woman, "Next time, I'm hiking with you." In two hours, we caught our first distant glimpse of the Colorado. Near here, the trail edges briefly across a slender ridge, presenting dizzying drop-offs on either side. After four hours we reached the Colorado, crossing over a high suspension bridge to the ranch. Three rafts, docked briefly at Phantom's sandy beach, pushed off into the rapids and disappeared around a bend.

At the Phantom's canteen, we downed a glass of cold lemonade, dropped packs in the bunkhouse and headed for the river to soak hot, tired feet. Already the setting sun cast curious shadows on the rock walls. As I watched, I reveled in our feat. We'd made it to the bottom of the Grand Canyon, weary but bedazzled by the views. Later, I'd worry about climbing back out. Now I was content.

Getting ready

Phoenix, the closest major airport to the Grand Canyon, is served by Southwest, America's largest budget airline. Distance from the airport to the South Rim is about 220 miles via I-17 north to Flagstaff and U.S. 180 on to the park. A check of the Internet shows Dollar (dollar.com, 800/800-3665) offering a weekly rate this summer of $144 for an economy car. Next lowest is Thrifty (thrifty.com, 800/847-4389) at $149. Grand Canyon National Park entrance fee is $20 per car, good for seven days.

Plan on spending the night before and after your hike on the South Rim. Cabins for two begin at about $65 at Maswik and Bright Angel Lodges. The cafeteria at Maswik provides inexpensive meals. All South Rim and Phantom Ranch lodging reservations can be made through AmFac (303/297-2757, grandcanyonlodges.com). For peak-season summer hikes only, you may have to book Phantom Ranch bunk space 23 months in advance. An adventure like this is worth the wait. Grand Canyon information: 928/638-7888.