Little Rock and Roll

Opening November 18, the Clinton Presidential library has put a spring in the step of this once-sleepy Arkansas city

Love him or hate him, Bill Clinton blended the old and new South better than anyone else we're likely to see. He's an Arkansas-bred boy who was real enough to pass as a Bubba and slick enough to rule in Washington, D.C. Now he's bringing the world to his former stomping ground of Little Rock in the form of the $165 million glass-and-steel William J. Clinton Presidential Center.

At 20,000 square feet, the Clinton Center will hold the largest collection of presidential materials. (It contains 2 million photos alone.) The boxy, modernist main building is cantilevered over the Arkansas River from the southern riverbank, and the adjacent Rock Island Railroad Bridge, abandoned in 1980, has been pressed into service as a walkway. Within the center's 30-acre park is the new Clinton School of Public Service, a graduate school that's part of the University of Arkansas and housed in the recently rehabbed 1899 Choctaw Railroad station. Just down the road--President Clinton Avenue, to be precise--is where Heifer, which for 60 years has given farm animals to needy families worldwide, is building its eco-friendly Heifer International Global Village partly out of steel beams and concrete from existing railroad structures. The $13.9 million headquarters opens in fall 2005; the charity plans to turn it into a tourist attraction educating visitors about world hunger.

Little Rock still prides itself on that tried-and-true Southern tradition, eating. Just over a decade ago the toughest choice on a Friday night was between Chili's or Bennigan's; the city now serves everything from New American to, as Loca Luna owner and chef Mark Abernathy describes the food at his place, Nouveau Schizophrenic. Loca Luna's grilled salmon with cranberry-orange-chipotle sauce is a standout dish. The city's deep-fried roots remain, though, especially when it comes to slow-smoked pit barbecue. Everyone in town has a favorite joint, but one of the undeniable top spots is Sim's Bar-B-Que, where fans run the gamut from suit-and-tie politicos to jeans-wearing construction workers.

Since the mid-'90s, the River Market District, a stretch of restaurants and clubs, has grown to become the epicenter of Little Rock nightlife. Crowds lift a few pints at The Underground Pub (a spacious English-style ale house) and carouse at Sticky Fingerz Rock 'n' Roll Chicken Shack. The Heights, a venerable neighborhood four miles west, has one of the city's most convivial old-style local bars, called Afterthought. Mondays are devoted to jazz, and the rest of the week there's dancing to standards and blues.

In a sure sign of newfound confidence, Little Rock now has a hip lodging in the River Market Lofts, a factory converted to upmarket apartments, eight of which are available by the night. The decor is Ikea-esque, and each loft has a full kitchen; they're within walking distance of the Clinton Center. The historic Quapaw Quarter--south of the River Market--contains the city's oldest homes, some dating to before the Civil War. A converted late-1800s mansion, the genteel Rosemont Bed & Breakfast has five guest rooms with plush armchairs, gauzy curtains, and, in most, fireplaces and four-poster beds. Out front there's a shaded porch, perfect for relaxing in a rocking chair while the fall leaves stir in the breeze. It's an experience that the new Little Rock has yet to top.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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Photography
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Many computer photo albums use camera date stamps to organize collections. Whenever you're traveling in a time zone that might affect the date stamp (if you're crossing the International Date Line, for example), remember to reset your camera's clock.

— Michael Gray
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Packing
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There's nothing worse than trying to fall asleep under a mosquito net and then realizing that the bugs are finding a way inside. So next time you're heading someplace tropical--where you know you'll be sleeping under mosquito netting--remember to toss a roll of Scotch tape into your suitcase. It's perfect for quick repairs.

— Christopher Swain
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Cruises
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Bring a single-hole punch and lanyard on your next cruise. Once aboard, you can make a hole in your plastic key card and attach the lanyard, allowing you to carry the key around your neck. This is especially useful when your dress or slacks have no pockets. Just be sure to put the hole where it won't interfere with the card's magnetic strip.

— Sallie Clinard
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Shopping
338232

When my husband and I visit places like India or Thailand, we pack only one extra change of clothes. When we arrive, we hit a local market and buy local attire--woven shirts, saris, sarongs, etc. Not only does this make packing easier, but we get a better cultural experience and end up with lots of wearable souvenirs!

— Alice Fraser
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Shopping
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When you're shopping for alcohol on any Caribbean island, ask if there's a Kmart nearby. Often the dis- counter is a short distance from the docks where the cruise ships tie up and has an extensive selection at prices lower than the liquor stores on the main drag. While you're there, pick up that extra roll of film or the sunscreen you forgot.

— Andrea Mansfield
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Air Travel
380249

We were told by an airport security official to tape a business card onto the cover of our laptop. Turns out he has an average of six laptop computers left behind each day! There are so many more procedures now--removing shoes, removing coats--that people forget when they send their laptop through in a separate bin. The official added that it's very difficult to return them because most laptops have passwords that keep the owners' personal information hidden.

— Liz Nealon
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Shopping
378285

A company called Orikaso makes brightly colored polypropylene sheets that can be folded--kind of like origami--to form a dish, bowl, or cup. The sheets are lightweight and reusable, and you simply flatten them when you're finished. We found ours at a sporting goods store, but you can also buy them online. Check orikaso.com for retailers.

— Susan Day
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Planning
368266

Scuba-diving vacations can get expensive. As I start planning a trip, I call one of the local PADI dive shops and ask the employees about accommodations nearby. They give me hotel connections I couldn't find on my own, and I often save enough to pay for my dives.

— Lyle Bennett
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Planning
366292

You can suspend more than your newspaper when you're away. On several occasions, DirecTV has agreed to put my account on hold while I was traveling--without penalties, additional fees, reconnection charges, or the like. So, instead of a monthly bill of $65, mine gets prorated.

— Ed Clancy
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Hotels
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Many tourist information offices provide discounted same-day booking services for local lodgings. My husband and I discovered this when we accidentally left a midweek gap in our travel plans between my husband's conference hotel and our B&B in Charleston. Instead of adding another night at either location, we stayed at one of the more elegant inns (normally over $200) for $70, courtesy of the Charleston Convention and Visitors Bureau.

— Audrey E. Vance
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Hotels
427322

When I'm packing to leave a hotel room, I turn the bedding down to the foot of the bed so that the white sheets are facing up. This way, items placed on the bed are clearly visible. I once left a camera behind because I couldn't see it against a very dark bedspread.

— Fran Schaak
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Technology
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Check out worldclimate.com to find monthly average temperatures and rainfall for thousands of cities worldwide. You can avoid countries during their rainy seasons, and the information is useful for figuring out what to pack.

— Elizabeth Bass
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Shopping
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If you plan to buy crafts in a country where bargaining is expected, use the time it takes for luggage to be unloaded to scope out the airport stores. Jot down items you like and their retail prices. If you find a similar item while touring the country, you have a top-end bargaining point. If you don't find the object at a better price, you can always pick it up at the airport while you're waiting for your flight home.

— Deborah Seter
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Hotels
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If you take an overnight flight to Europe and early check-in at your hotel isn't an option, ask the concierge if you can store your luggage until later in the day and use the hotel gym's shower. You'll be refreshed and ready for sightseeing. Pack toiletries and a change of clothes in your carry-on.

— Brian Huseman
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Safety
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Our bags have been stolen twice from inside locked rental cars. Now we travel with a bicycle cable and lock. If we absolutely have to leave our suitcases in the car, I hook them together by the handles and attach the whole thing to the frame of a seat or a secure item in the trunk. Even if thieves manage to get into our car, the cable will make it very difficult for them to make off with the luggage.

— Karen McCarty
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Planning
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Don't save the best for the last day. If you wait until the end of your trip for "must-do" activities, you won't be able to reschedule if something unforeseen happens. I planned a snorkeling excursion for my final day in San Diego, but the waters were too rough, and the trip had to be canceled.

— Melissa Coplak
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Planning
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Certified scuba divers who take prescription medications should keep a doctor's permission-to-dive statement with their certification cards. On a recent trip to Jamaica, I truthfully completed a lengthy questionnaire about my health, revealing that I have medically controlled high blood pressure and cholesterol. I was told I could not dive without a doctor's OK, even though I exercise regularly, am very fit, and have no other health issues. I now carry a letter from my doctor attesting to my fitness for scuba diving.

— Ginny Ganthner
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Packing
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Whenever my husband and I get new pairs of eyeglasses, we relegate the old ones to our luggage, along with an inexpensive repair kit from the drugstore. If something happens while we're away from home, we can hopefully fix the glasses ourselves. If they're beyond saving, we have the backup pairs to get us through the rest of the trip.

— Carol Alabaster
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Shopping
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It helps to have a calculator if you plan to do a lot of shopping in foreign markets. When you find something you like, hand the seller the calculator and ask him to enter his best price. It's easy to convert the response into dollars so you know what you're spending. If necessary, the calculator can be used to haggle, especially if you don't speak the language.

— Becky Sapp
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Air Travel
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Try to book the first flight out in the morning, because those planes often arrive at the airport the evening before. You won't have to rely on an incoming plane, which could be delayed or canceled due to bad weather elsewhere, resulting in your own flight being delayed or canceled.

— George Glover
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Packing
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Recycle the long plastic bags in which you receive your home-delivered newspapers. Slip your shoes into the bags before packing them in your suitcase.

— Robert E. Jones
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Dining
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I carry recipe cards with me to jot down interesting dishes I come across while on vacation. (I also like to use colorful postcards from the area I'm visiting and trim them to fit my recipe box.) Here's a wonderful dessert idea I brought home after spending a rainy afternoon with my husband in a London pub: Top a warm waffle with vanilla ice cream, maple syrup, and chopped pecans. It's heaven with a cup of hot tea.

— Susan Mullens
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Air Travel
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When you change your clocks back or forward, be sure to check the expiration date on all your frequent-flier miles. This way they're checked twice a year. We overlooked one of the many accounts in our household and lost a free ticket when the miles expired.

— Lynda Self
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Photography
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Put an address label on your one-time-use camera. At a Final Four game in Indianapolis, we exchanged identical Kodak Fun Savers with another traveler so that we could take souvenir photos of each other with our respective cameras. But afterward, we couldn't tell whose camera was whose. Luckily, I remembered how many exposures remained on mine, so we got ours back. Next time, I'll just label it.

— Matthew Richard
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Planning
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I unpacked a pair of black slacks recently to find them covered with white fuzz. I didn't have a lint brush handy, so I used the luggage sticker from my bag--the gummy side took the lint right off.

— Joyce Barbatti
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Packing
360255

I always pack a Petzl Tikka Plus headlamp. It's small, weighs next to nothing, and is perfect for reading in bed at night without disturbing my husband. They're sold online and at outdoor-gear stores for about $33.

— Linda Smejkal
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Hotels
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I've found that by wedging a bath mat under my hotel-room door, I can reduce any light or noise coming from the hallway—ensuring that I'll sleep better.

— Louisa Elder
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Hotels
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Even if you're staying at a standard resort hotel, take advantage of the day passes sold by many all-inclusive resorts (i.e., the right to use their facilities--such as swimming pools and beach chairs--and enjoy their meals for a day). The passes are primarily designed for cruise passengers on day trips but can be obtained by anyone for very little money. For persons staying in a less-expensive, no-frills hotel, it can give you the experience of a larger, more extensive resort for a day or two.

— Mandy Vieregg
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Air Travel
368261

Tired of catching colds while traveling? Take along a travel-size package of Clorox wipes. Disinfect the tray table and armrests on the airplane, and the telephone and TV remote in your hotel room.

— Sherill Hacker
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Planning
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When we come home at night, my wife and I each take a dollar from our wallets and put them in a special spot. We deposit what we've collected into a travel account at our bank every few months, so at the end of a year, we have $730 toward our next vacation—not counting interest.

— Wayne Block

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