The Secret Hotels of Paris

The secret, (mostly) small, (mostly) family-run gems that give you great ambience at truly exceptional prices

A trip to the City of Light is a dream for many--yet one that can turn sour when you're faced with its abundance of Eiffel Tower--high prices. But finding a charmant hotel that won't leave you broke is not an impossible quest, as long as you don't expect huge rooms quite as amenity-packed as in the States. Even so, you can easily pay the same price for an uninspiring dump as you might for a comfy little marvel--had you known better. Here's to knowing better.

After visiting dozens of hotels, we've chosen 19 of the creme de la creme that offer doubles for under $80 a night (not including room tax, the equivalent of less than a dollar per person per night). And we've listed them below in ascending order of cost. Hotel Bonsejour 11 rue Burq, 18th arrondissement, Montmartre, tel. 011-33/1-42-54-22-53, fax /1-42-54-25-92. Metro: Abbesses. 34 rooms, nine with sink and shower, 26 with sink, all with shared toilet facilities, communal shower available on first floor. No elevator, no phones. Doubles: sink only ¬30 ($27), sink and shower ¬36 ($32), breakfast ¬4 ($3.50). An amazing deal. Yes, there is no elevator and the floors are uneven, but the rooms are spacious, well kept, and best of all, smack in the middle of Montmartre. Many rooms have lovely views of cobbled streets; the best are from corner rooms 23, 33, 43, and 53, which have nice balconies where you can have your breakfast. The owner is fiercely proud of the cleanliness of the rooms and the fact that he has invested in high-quality mattresses--a true luxury at these prices. A few rooms have showers, but shared facilities are immaculate and cleaned frequently. There is no denying that the premises are a little old and creaky, but its clear that the management has made a big effort to keep paint fresh and customers smiling.

Hotel de Lille

8 rue du Pelican, 1st arr., Palais Royale/Louvre, tel. 011-33/1-42-33-33-42. Metro: Palais Royale-Musee du Louvre. 13 rooms, seven with private bath, four with sink and shared bath. No elevator, no phones. Doubles with sink and shower ¬42 ($37), sink, shower, and toilet ¬49 ($43).

This funky little hotel has recently spiffed itself up with a new coat of paint and some periodesque furniture. It's amazing what a few Alfons Mucha posters and new carpets can do for a tired tourist's morale. Yes, you still have to haul yourself up a narrow staircase, but at least your final destination is cheery, if not luxurious. Rooms on the courtyard are very quiet, but darkness-lovers should request a room facing the calm street. Travelers converge on this hotel to take advantage of the low prices and the great location, a couple of blocks from the Louvre and the Palais Royale.

Hotel du Sejour

36 rue du Grenier St-Lazare, 3rd arr., the Marais, tel./fax 011-33/1-48-87-40-36. Metro: Rambuteau. 20 rooms, about half with private bath, half with sink (shared toilets). No elevator, no phones. Doubles with sink only ¬42 ($37), shower and toilet ¬54 ($48).

The sunny, cheerful rooms match the owner's smile at this friendly place, where a warm welcome takes the sting out of the long climb up the stairs. Lodgings are simple but clean, and several rooms have new bathroom fixtures and wallpaper--a decided preference for pink is detectable in the color scheme. The relatively spacious rooms are fairly quiet, with double-paned windows to keep out street noise. Museum lovers will be tickled with the locale, as the Pompidou Center is right down the street and the many museums of the Marais are within easy walking distance.

Hotel Eldorado

18 rue des Dames, 17th arr., Batignolles, tel. 011-33/1-45-22-35-21, fax /1-43-87-25-97. Metro: Place de Clichy. 33 rooms, most with private bath. No elevator. Doubles ¬54 ($48), breakfast ¬5.50 ($5).

Batignolles is one of Paris' more happening neighborhoods these days, and this fanciful place fits right in with the artsy scene. Lively reds, golds, and greens coat the walls, and furniture is covered in everything from African prints to old-fashioned comforters. Interesting architectural details like onyx mantelpieces and wood moldings have been preserved, and touches like modern art posters and mosaic bathroom mirrors have been added. The nicest (and largest) rooms are in the back building, with high ceilings and garden views. OK, there is some chipped paint here and there, but overall this hotel is clean, smart, and a terrific bargain. Be sure to check out the cool little bistro on the ground floor.

Hotel Le Petit

Chatelet 9 rue St-Denis, 1st arr., Chatelet/Les Halles, tel. 011-33/1-42-33-32-31, fax /1-42-33-32-45. Metro: Chatelet. 11 rooms, 10 with private bath. No elevator. Doubles ¬62 ($55), breakfast ¬5.40 ($4.75).

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Hotels
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A shoe organizer hung over the bathroom door is my solution for hotel-room clutter. The compartments are perfect for stashing everything from room keys and travel documents to toiletries and, of course, shoes. The extra storage space came in especially handy on a recent cruise, when we needed all the room we could get in our tiny cabin.

— Jane Tague
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Dining
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I carry bilingual takeout menus when traveling to countries like China, Korea, and Vietnam. When I'm at a restaurant with no menu (or one that I can't read), I give mine to the waiter so he can point to dishes they can prepare. I've learned to pack a few extra menus, as the restaurants often like to keep a copy.

— Charles Locher
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Hotels
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I always bring a small flashlight to hotels in case there's a blackout. The building may not be equipped with emergency lighting, and, if necessary, my flashlight will help me quickly locate the nearest exit.

— Lois Meshonek
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Hotels
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On the final day of a recent Caribbean vacation, I tried to arrange for a late checkout, but was told it wasn't possible. The hotel offered me the use of a day room; it would have been perfect, but it was being used by other guests, and there was a very long wait for the shower. I went back upstairs and saw that someone was just about to clean my room. I told the housekeeper that I understood she had to do her job, but I wondered if I could I take a quick shower first. She offered to clean next door while I took my shower. I tipped her $10 and then left for the airport.

— Michele Chico
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Planning
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About a month before leaving on vacation, I start clipping the crossword puzzles from the daily newspaper and pasting them into a blank notebook. The puzzles keep me occupied during my trip. The newspaper's crosswords are so much more interesting than the generic books of them you can purchase at the airport.

— Kathie Meyer
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Packing
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Pack a power strip and extension cord for your next cruise. Many cruise-ship cabins have only one out- let, but you'll definitely need more if you want to power up your laptop, iPod, cell phone, electric razor, hairdryer, or any other gadgets you bring on board.

— Jay Van Vechten
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Air Travel
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For long overnight flights, pack a dry washcloth in a Ziploc bag in your carry-on. Before landing, ask the flight attendant for a cup of hot (not boiling) water. Carefully pour the water into the Ziploc bag and then wipe your face and hands with the steaming cloth. It's like a portable sauna!

— Henrietta Scarlett Ober
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Safety
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Don't be afraid to go to a foreign pharmacy. I forgot to pack my prescription medication on a recent trip to France. When my problem acted up, I went to a local pharmacy. (Look for the green cross.) The pharmacist provided my medication without a prescription and at a fraction of what it would have cost in the United States. In fact, one could benefit by stocking up abroad on medications that would normally be acquired at home at a much higher price.

— Mainard Tom
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Safety
453302

I bought several items while in London and noticed when I returned home that my credit card number was printed in full on each sales slip. (In the United States, usually only the last four digits of the number are visible.) Travelers should be careful when using their credit cards overseas--don't leave the sales slips lying around.

— Jackie MacNeil
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Therm-a-Rest's Compressible Pillow is perfect for the plane. It comes in three sizes, packs smaller and expands bigger than any other pillow, and is machine washable. Whenever I pull mine out of my carry-on, I get jealous stares: People always ask where they can get one. REI sells the pillows for $18 to $25, depending on the size (rei.com).

— Sheila Lauber
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Packing
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If you plan to visit a theme park, always bring a few sandwich-size Ziploc bags. They'll protect your cell phone and wallet when you're riding on flumes and other water attractions.

— Jack Bell
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Air Travel
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It's often cheaper to buy a ticket to London and then fly onward within Europe via a regional low cost airline. Last summer, my husband and I bought consolidator tickets to London for $397. From there, we flew EasyJet to Nice for $72. The total cost was $469—much less than flying directly to Nice, plus we enjoyed a stopover in London.

— Jasmine Tata
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Quotetravelinsurance.com gives you comparable details on more than one hundred travel-insurance plans, enabling you to make the best buy. It relies on ratings from insurance industry overseers such as A.M. Best and state insurance commissioners before allowing an insurance company into its extensive lineup.

— Marc Oppy
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Air Travel
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I was booking tickets online for an upcoming flight to Europe from the East Coast. One particularly attractive fare was offered on a U.S. airline as well as on its foreign "partner airline." Same plane, same flight, same base price. But it was more than $100 cheaper per ticket to book with the foreign airline versus the U.S.one. We saved more than $400 for four tickets, but we'll be on the same plane!

— Lori Uhl
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Hotels
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Cold-weather traveling means turning up the thermostat in your hotel room, and along with the artificially warmed air come dry skin and static electricity. Instead of turning on the heat, fill the bathtub with very hot water and leave the bathroom door open. In about an hour, your entire room will be warm and humidified.

— Susan Mutty
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Air Travel
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If you've accumulated more souvenirs on your trip than you can carry, drive your rental car up to curbside check-in, then return the vehicle and come back on the shuttle bus with only your carry-on. This only works if there's no check-in line, but can save dragging your luggage onto the shuttle bus, across parking lots, etc.

— Robyn Volkening
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Packing
380251

I always pack several tea lights, a small vial of essential oils, and matches. Tea lights, when placed in a water glass for extra safety, banish stale or unpleasant smells in hotel rooms. The essential oils work wonders when a drop is placed on a warm lightbulb.

— Stephanie Hartselle
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Just before a trip to Spain, I emailed myself a list of addresses of the friends and family I might want to email while away. At a cybercafe, I was able to simply cut and paste the list into the address line of a new message.

— Rita Young
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Before you head to the airport, stop by the front desk of your hotel or cruise ship and ask if they'll print your boarding pass for you. It'll save Internet browsing fees and time at check-in. It's worked for me at several Marriott hotels and on a Celebrity cruise.

— Rose Jakubaszek
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I've created files--some general (Southeast Asia), some specific (Hawaii)--for articles and clippings about places I'd like to visit in the future. I don't want all the good tips, restaurant recommendations, and out-of-the-ordinary itineraries to go to waste just because I'm not planning an immediate trip. The files don't have to be super organized--just throw in the clippings, and you can weed through them later. You'll be glad you have the information when you do get a chance to go away.

— Christine Size
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I agree that the anti-seasickness medication for cruises, Bonine, is excellent and effective; but there is a budget way to buy it. The primary ingredient in Bonine is meclizine (25 mg). While a package of eight Bonine tablets costs just over $4 at a drugstore, you can buy a bottle of 100 generic meclizine (25 mg) for about the same price. This is an over-the-counter (no prescription needed) item, but you usually have to ask for it at the pharmacy counter.

— Lila Held
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Hotels
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Before you book a room over the phone, peruse the hotel's site for its "Web only" rate. It's often cheaper than the best quote you'll get by calling. Recently, over the phone, I was quoted a daily rate of $129. I booked the same room online for $89.

— Ying Wang
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My hearing loss once made it impossible to hear any alarm clock. Then I found the Shake Awake, an alarm clock that vibrates. I no longer stare at the ceiling all night prior to an early flight in fear of oversleeping. I clip Shake Awake to my pillow or place it on a hard surface near my bed, where its rattling definitely gets my attention.

— Kathy Hopkins
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Create your own postcards by writing on the back of photographs that you've taken and developed while still on your trip.

— Connie Van Brocklin
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I live in coastal Florida, where the electricity sometimes goes out during violent storms. Before a trip, I place a few ice cubes in a plastic bag and put the bag in the freezer. If the ice has melted and refrozen by the time I get home, I'll know we've had a power outage and that any food left in the refrigerator may be unsafe to consume.

— Brigitte Emick
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Hotels
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Rather than automatically using your hotel's valet parking, you should check to see if there's an adjacent parking lot or garage that offers a better rate. On a recent trip, I was able to park across the street from my hotel for $10 per day--versus $27 per day to valet park with the hotel.

— Charles LaFleur
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When I'm on a cruise with my wife's family and we're in a foreign city for the day, I get off the boat as soon as we dock and hail a taxi. I ask the driver to call his dispatcher and find me a van with an English-speaking driver. Then I negotiate an hourly rate and a pickup time at the dock. The family tours together for a few hours, and then each couple either gets dropped off where they want to spend extra time or returns to the boat (this is great for my elderly in-laws). We get a tailor-made city tour for a much cheaper rate than if we had booked through the cruise line.

— Stuart Hanzman
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Packing
389303

After looking for years for the perfect toiletries bag and being frustrated by many that were less than ideal, I finally discovered one that is just right: a soft-sided lunch box I bought at the supermarket. It has an outer zipped pocket with small compartments and slots perfect for often-used items like a toothbrush and toothpaste. There's a small removable zipper pouch inside (meant for a small ice pack) for those smaller, hard-to-find items like nail files and pill bottles. The remaining space inside is just right for larger items like shampoo and hand lotion. Other helpful features include both a small handle and shoulder strap and a waterproof, easy-to-clean interior. As an elementary school teacher, I know firsthand that it'll last: It was designed to withstand daily use by kids!

— Jennifer Minton
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Air Travel
382283

We've noticed that when booking a flight for our family under one reservation, some airlines will only credit the 1,500 bonus miles (500 for booking online, 500 each way for printing boarding passes) to the person whose name the reservation is under. This is regardless of whether the other family members have mileage accounts. To avoid this, make a separate reservation for each of your family members and then pick seats together.

— Martin Vasquez
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Packing
382242

I reverse the batteries in my portable CD player before packing it in my suitcase or backpack, in case it's accidentally turned on when my bag is jostled. I came up with the idea after arriving at my destination to find that the brand-new batteries I'd put into my Walkman were dead.

— Chris Giaimo

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