The Secret Hotels of Paris

The secret, (mostly) small, (mostly) family-run gems that give you great ambience at truly exceptional prices

A trip to the City of Light is a dream for many--yet one that can turn sour when you're faced with its abundance of Eiffel Tower--high prices. But finding a charmant hotel that won't leave you broke is not an impossible quest, as long as you don't expect huge rooms quite as amenity-packed as in the States. Even so, you can easily pay the same price for an uninspiring dump as you might for a comfy little marvel--had you known better. Here's to knowing better.

After visiting dozens of hotels, we've chosen 19 of the creme de la creme that offer doubles for under $80 a night (not including room tax, the equivalent of less than a dollar per person per night). And we've listed them below in ascending order of cost. Hotel Bonsejour 11 rue Burq, 18th arrondissement, Montmartre, tel. 011-33/1-42-54-22-53, fax /1-42-54-25-92. Metro: Abbesses. 34 rooms, nine with sink and shower, 26 with sink, all with shared toilet facilities, communal shower available on first floor. No elevator, no phones. Doubles: sink only ¬30 ($27), sink and shower ¬36 ($32), breakfast ¬4 ($3.50). An amazing deal. Yes, there is no elevator and the floors are uneven, but the rooms are spacious, well kept, and best of all, smack in the middle of Montmartre. Many rooms have lovely views of cobbled streets; the best are from corner rooms 23, 33, 43, and 53, which have nice balconies where you can have your breakfast. The owner is fiercely proud of the cleanliness of the rooms and the fact that he has invested in high-quality mattresses--a true luxury at these prices. A few rooms have showers, but shared facilities are immaculate and cleaned frequently. There is no denying that the premises are a little old and creaky, but its clear that the management has made a big effort to keep paint fresh and customers smiling.

Hotel de Lille

8 rue du Pelican, 1st arr., Palais Royale/Louvre, tel. 011-33/1-42-33-33-42. Metro: Palais Royale-Musee du Louvre. 13 rooms, seven with private bath, four with sink and shared bath. No elevator, no phones. Doubles with sink and shower ¬42 ($37), sink, shower, and toilet ¬49 ($43).

This funky little hotel has recently spiffed itself up with a new coat of paint and some periodesque furniture. It's amazing what a few Alfons Mucha posters and new carpets can do for a tired tourist's morale. Yes, you still have to haul yourself up a narrow staircase, but at least your final destination is cheery, if not luxurious. Rooms on the courtyard are very quiet, but darkness-lovers should request a room facing the calm street. Travelers converge on this hotel to take advantage of the low prices and the great location, a couple of blocks from the Louvre and the Palais Royale.

Hotel du Sejour

36 rue du Grenier St-Lazare, 3rd arr., the Marais, tel./fax 011-33/1-48-87-40-36. Metro: Rambuteau. 20 rooms, about half with private bath, half with sink (shared toilets). No elevator, no phones. Doubles with sink only ¬42 ($37), shower and toilet ¬54 ($48).

The sunny, cheerful rooms match the owner's smile at this friendly place, where a warm welcome takes the sting out of the long climb up the stairs. Lodgings are simple but clean, and several rooms have new bathroom fixtures and wallpaper--a decided preference for pink is detectable in the color scheme. The relatively spacious rooms are fairly quiet, with double-paned windows to keep out street noise. Museum lovers will be tickled with the locale, as the Pompidou Center is right down the street and the many museums of the Marais are within easy walking distance.

Hotel Eldorado

18 rue des Dames, 17th arr., Batignolles, tel. 011-33/1-45-22-35-21, fax /1-43-87-25-97. Metro: Place de Clichy. 33 rooms, most with private bath. No elevator. Doubles ¬54 ($48), breakfast ¬5.50 ($5).

Batignolles is one of Paris' more happening neighborhoods these days, and this fanciful place fits right in with the artsy scene. Lively reds, golds, and greens coat the walls, and furniture is covered in everything from African prints to old-fashioned comforters. Interesting architectural details like onyx mantelpieces and wood moldings have been preserved, and touches like modern art posters and mosaic bathroom mirrors have been added. The nicest (and largest) rooms are in the back building, with high ceilings and garden views. OK, there is some chipped paint here and there, but overall this hotel is clean, smart, and a terrific bargain. Be sure to check out the cool little bistro on the ground floor.

Hotel Le Petit

Chatelet 9 rue St-Denis, 1st arr., Chatelet/Les Halles, tel. 011-33/1-42-33-32-31, fax /1-42-33-32-45. Metro: Chatelet. 11 rooms, 10 with private bath. No elevator. Doubles ¬62 ($55), breakfast ¬5.40 ($4.75).

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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When parking in a crowded garage, don't settle for the first space available on a lower level. It's probably a half-day hike from the elevator. Instead, drive to the upper levels, where you can usually park right next to the elevator. This tip was very useful in Las Vegas, especially when checking in and out of hotels with our luggage.

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Every year, I get address labels from numerous charitable organizations. I keep them with me when traveling because it's the quickest way to provide my address to new friends, enter prize drawings at shops, sign guest books, etc. It's not only efficient; it can also help spread the word about worthwhile charities.

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Before leaving for a vacation, I print out all our reservations and directions, and I create a contact sheet for emergencies. Then I gather all the papers together, punch some holes, and place them in a folder that has a middle section for three–holed papers. The side pockets hold brochures, business cards, ticket stubs, receipts, and maps that we collect along the way and want to bring home for our scrapbook.

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I reverse the batteries in my portable CD player before packing it in my suitcase or backpack, in case it's accidentally turned on when my bag is jostled. I came up with the idea after arriving at my destination to find that the brand-new batteries I'd put into my Walkman were dead.

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Don't rush off the car-rental lot. Before driving away--especially in foreign countries where the controls might be unfamiliar-test the headlights and brakes, and look for the extra tire and changing tools. I once had a rental with malfunctioning brakes in Mexico and caused a minor accident--one that could certainly have been avoided had I checked them properly before leaving the lot.

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In North American cities with large Chinese communities, choose a family-run Chinese restaurant and ask for the set family meals, usually written in Chinese. They are more authentic than those typically offered to tourists and people who are not Chinese—not to mention a better value. In San Francisco, for example, you can enjoy a five-course meal, which easily feeds a family of four, for less than $20.

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Attach a few carabiners--the kind of clips rock climbers use--to the top of your wheeled suitcase. Purses, cameras, and shopping bags can be clipped to your suitcase, giving your hands and shoulders a rest while you're walking around the airport.

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If you visit a country where you don't speak the language, pick up a book of your hotel's matches or one of its business cards; they usually have the hotel's name and address printed on them. Then when you're out sightseeing and want to return to your hotel, show the matchbook or card to the cabdriver if he doesn't speak English.

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Bring a single-hole punch and lanyard on your next cruise. Once aboard, you can make a hole in your plastic key card and attach the lanyard, allowing you to carry the key around your neck. This is especially useful when your dress or slacks have no pockets. Just be sure to put the hole where it won't interfere with the card's magnetic strip.

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When you change your clocks back or forward, be sure to check the expiration date on all your frequent-flier miles. This way they're checked twice a year. We overlooked one of the many accounts in our household and lost a free ticket when the miles expired.

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Booking condos last minute can yield incredible bargains, and there's a way to maximize savings while minimizing the risk that you won't find a room at all. ("Last minute" generally means a month or less before your stay; seven-day deals usually start on a Saturday.) Buy your plane ticket and book a refundable hotel room you can use in case you can't find that bargain condo. Then, a month or so before your trip, start looking at last-minute sites—lastminutetravel.com, site59.com, etc. If you find a deal, simply get a refund on the hotel room and pay the cancellation fee, if there happens to be one. Using this technique, I found a great beachfront, one-bedroom condo on Maui—and I saved about $300.

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A padlocked zipper tells thieves there's something in your bag worth stealing, but a key ring is much less obvious. Just use it to latch together the zippers. Best of all, you'll never have to worry about forgetting your combination.

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If I plan to travel to several countries that use different currencies, I pack a few cloth change purses: U.S. dollars go into one, British pounds in another, euros in a third, etc. When I'm sightseeing, I carry only the money I need; the purses that I'm not using are locked away in the hotel safe. I avoid fumbling around in shops and mixing up coins that look alike. Plus,I always know exactly how much cash I have.

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Turn off your fridge's icemaker before you leave home. And remember to empty the ice cube bin. The power was out for several days while I was away recently. When I got back, the melted ice had refrozen throughout the freezer compartment. It took forever to clean up.

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If you can't sleep due to the heat in your non-air-conditioned hotel room, take a cold bottle of water and place it on your pillow, in the crook of your neck. It will cool your whole body down.

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The magnets you use on a refrigerator will also stick well to most hotel and motel room doors, turning them into makeshift bulletin boards. Post theater tickets, itineraries, reminder notes, and any other useful information, then grab what you need before you leave the room for the day.

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Give your children a coach's whistle in case they get lost; put it on a ribbon so they can wear it around their neck. The piercing sound may be annoying, but you'll definitely find them quicker!

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When my husband and I travel with our children, our luggage is weighed down by diapers, formula, and other necessities. To save space and hassle, we now ship ahead most of those items to our hotel. We also came across a Web site called babiestravellite.com, where we can order supplies and have them shipped anywhere in the world.

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Know your PINs! My husband and I left home with very little cash on us, and instead of stopping to get money at the airport, my husband--ever the procrastinator--decided to wait until we got to Cancún to use his ATM card. Guess what? It didn't work in any of the machines. And although he had several credit cards for cash advances, he didn't know the PINs off the top of his head. We charged everything we could during our stay, but most of the markets don't take credit cards. Needless to say, I didn't come home with a lot of souvenirs.

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No longer do the many key chains I get as advertising languish in bureau drawers. I attach one or two at the ends of my luggage zippers. They make it easier to work the zippers and help me identify my luggage on airport carousels.

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When I'm on a cruise with my wife's family and we're in a foreign city for the day, I get off the boat as soon as we dock and hail a taxi. I ask the driver to call his dispatcher and find me a van with an English-speaking driver. Then I negotiate an hourly rate and a pickup time at the dock. The family tours together for a few hours, and then each couple either gets dropped off where they want to spend extra time or returns to the boat (this is great for my elderly in-laws). We get a tailor-made city tour for a much cheaper rate than if we had booked through the cruise line.

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To find the perfect destination with airfare that meets your budget, try Travelocity's Dream Maps travel tool (travelocity.com). Select a maximum fare and a type of destination (city, national park, etc.) and the Web site will display a variety of trips matching that description.

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After I fell into a stream in Cambodia, my digital camera wouldn't work. Someone suggested leaving the camera in a bag of rice overnight to draw out any condensation. By the next morning, it was dry and working perfectly.

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If you make a hotel reservation online and then cancel online, print out and save the cancellation confirmation for at least two billing cycles past your trip. After our vacation, I found a "no-show" charge on my credit card for a room that I'd canceled well in advance. Without the confirmation, I had no way to contest the bill.

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Rather than risk losing your department-store credit cards and club-membership cards, you should really leave them behind when you go somewhere you won't need them. Your purse or wallet will be lighter and your worries fewer.

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If you even manage to get a cell signal while at sea, your roaming charges will be outrageous. To communicate with your cabinmates, leave Post-it Notes on your door detailing where you'll be throughout the day.

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On international flights, I used to fumble through my belongings--often having to retrieve them from the overhead bin--after a flight attendant appeared with customs and immigration forms. (I don't know of many people who have their passport's number and date of issue memorized.) Now I write all that info on the bookmark of whatever I plan to read on the long flight so I don't have to dig out my passport. I can fill out the card quickly--giving me more time to loan my pen to all the people who never seem to carry one.

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