TRIP COACH

'I'm Finally Going to Hawaii. What Should I Do There?'

Thanks to a dear friend, Louise Zahorsky is off to Maui and Kauai. Here's what every first-timer should know

In June 2003, Louise Zahorsky ran into Deleano Benjamin at their 45th high school reunion in Worthington, Minn. The old friends hadn't seen each other since the 40th reunion. They caught up, discussing news both good (Louise's husband, Gerald, was retiring in a year) and bad (after battling breast cancer in the early '90s, Louise recently found out she needed further treatment).

"If you could travel anywhere," Deleano asked Louise, "where would 'anywhere' be?"

He had barely finished speaking when Louise blurted out, "Hawaii!" But it would never happen. Gerald didn't want to be on a plane for the long trip, and besides, it would cost too much.

So Deleano told a story. His mother had wanted to go to Hawaii for her 50th wedding anniversary, but Deleano's father was reluctant to spend the money. "My mom finally told him that she was going," Deleano said. "She'd simply take someone else." Deleano's father relented, and wound up loving the islands -- before he died, he even requested that he be buried in his Hawaiian shirt. "Can you believe my surprise when I looked into his casket?"

Concerned about her family's retirement funds, Louise remained hesitant. But Deleano wouldn't drop the topic and offered up his time-share to bring their expenses down. Over the next few months, Louise and Deleano discussed the possibilities, settling on a week in Kauai and a week in Maui, beginning in November, after Gerald's retirement. The time-share program wasn't free for the Zahorskys, but it would cost less than $1,000 total. "This is one of the sweetest ladies you'll ever come across," says Deleano. "I just had to help."

Deleano had never been to Hawaii, so he didn't have any advice for the Zahorskys, who hadn't traveled much. "We mostly just visit friends and family," says Louise. Neither Gerald nor Louise use the Internet, so Deleano posted questions for them on the message board at our website, budgettravel.com. From the answers Deleano found there, he ordered them free brochures from the Hawaii Tourist Board (800/464-2924) and sent them a show about Hawaii that he had taped from the Travel Channel.

Mahalo, Deleano, but we can do better than that. We looked at options from several tour operators and airlines, and the best deal came from Worry-Free Vacations: $1,153 per person for charter flights between Minneapolis and Oahu, all flights within Hawaii, rental cars on Maui and Kauai, airport transfers on Oahu, and four nights at Oahu's Ohana Waikiki Surf.

Louise hoped to save money by skipping the rental cars, but we think they're essential on Maui and Kauai. Neither island has much in the way of public transportation. (Oahu has buses, shuttles, and taxis.)

The Zahorskys also asked for advice on what to do and where to eat affordably on Maui and Kauai. They'd be staying in Maui at the Sands of Kahana Vacation Club time-share, north of Lahaina. An old whaling town, Lahaina is popular these days for its galleries, T-shirt shops, and restaurants. Hawaiians love their "mixed plate" meals, with big portions of homey food, and we suggested the Zahorskys kick back in plastic chairs overlooking the coast at Aloha Mixed Plate, where the Hawaiian Plate, with Kalua pig, lomi lomi salmon, poi, and rice, costs $7.95. Another favorite with tourists and locals is Cheeseburger in Paradise. The cheeseburger is overpriced ($7.95, and that doesn't include fries!), but in the morning, there are no tipsy tourists to ruin the serene sea views and the macadamia nut pancakes ($6.95) are delicious.

Driving on Maui is an activity in itself. Loads of tourists wake up before dawn and head up to Haleakala, a 10,023-foot dormant volcano, to watch the sunrise -- but we advised the Zahorskys to save their sleep and go for sunset.

The other famed drive on Maui is the Road to Hana, a cliff-lined stretch with waterfalls, incredible views, and more twists than a Hitchcock movie. Most tourists drive for hours, look at the black-sand beach at Hana Bay, and turn back. But there's an overlooked snorkeling spot at Red Sand Beach (Kaihalulu). The small beach is part of a caved-in cinder cone, turned red through oxidation. There's parking near the community center on Ua Kea Road, and a steep dirt trail to the beach starts near the back lawn. The beach is almost never crowded, and the water is always calm and clear.

Gerald was interested in golfing but wasn't up for forking over $200 a round (which is what some resorts charge). We told him about the Waiehu, an 18-hole public course right on the ocean, where greens fees start at $26 on weekdays.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Packing
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Always carry peanut butter. A plastic jar is easy to pack, doesn't need refrigeration, is a great source of protein, and makes a quick, cheap meal when coupled with local bread. (But don't forget to pack a plastic knife for spreading it.)

— Nancy Norman
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Cruises
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Some cruise lines offer discounts on a future sailing if you book it while on a current cruise. Back home, you can transfer the booking to your travel agent and work with them to try to lower the price even further. You'll be able to cancel your booking at no cost if you follow the cruise line's cancellation schedule. This is a great way to get some of your onboard expenses paid for in advance.

— Jeff Putel
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Planning
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Before setting off on one of my many backpacking excursions, I head to Kinko's to rebind my guidebook. I replace the cover with a plain black or navy one. It costs about $6 and allows me to blend in much better while traveling. People see my new book as a journal, not a travel guide that labels me a tourist.

— Michelle Johnson
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Packing
382289

Place a fabric softener sheet in your suitcase when packing. It'll absorb odors and dampness and keep clothing smelling fresh. It's most beneficial in warm, humid climates and while at sea. I found this quite useful during my twenty-three years in the U.S.Navy.

— Edward Jewell
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Photography
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When not taking pictures, keep your memory card away from your camera. It's a simple method to ensure that any photographs you've shot will be safe even if your camera is stolen. My husband and I learned this lesson the hard way when we lost 250 shots of Kauai.

— Jamie Thomas
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Air Travel
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If you're stranded overnight at an airport and receive a "distress rate" voucher, call the hotel of your choice before blindly following the airline's suggestion. You may find that for that discounted rate (or a few bucks more) you can stay in a hotel with a lot more amenities than the one the airline would put you in. After a long, mishap-filled trip, anyone can appreciate a really good mattress, a top-notch restaurant, and an indoor swimming pool.

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Dining
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While traveling abroad, I've frequently encountered some appallingly bad (and often very funny) English translations of menus. In those cases, I simply offered to clean up the translations in exchange for a meal. This has worked quite a few times.

— William Boyle
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Packing
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If the zipper on your luggage or your clothing is giving you any trouble, rubbing some lip balm or candle wax onto the teeth should loosen it.

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Cruises
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We decided to take our bikes on our last Caribbean cruise. It was a little crowded in the cabin, so the steward let us store them down the hall with the wheelchairs. We were last off the ship when we docked in Bermuda, but after five minutes we'd left our fellow passengers in the dust. And in less than fifteen minutes, we were far away from the busy port, enjoying a beautiful, deserted snorkeling beach.

— Wayne Matchett
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Packing
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It's unnecessary to make a packing list for each trip. Instead, draw up a master list with everything you might need on any given trip--from ski goggles to snorkels, slippers to saline solution. Save it on your computer. Before you start packing, cross out anything you don't need for that particular trip.

— Bonnie Herbst
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Shopping
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A company called Orikaso makes brightly colored polypropylene sheets that can be folded--kind of like origami--to form a dish, bowl, or cup. The sheets are lightweight and reusable, and you simply flatten them when you're finished. We found ours at a sporting goods store, but you can also buy them online. Check orikaso.com for retailers.

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Family Travel
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Create an ID page for each of your children before you leave on a trip. In addition to vacation contact information (hotel name and phone number), include the child's name, a current photo, home address, phone, date of birth, Social Security number, passport number, hair color, eye color, height, any identifying marks, blood type, allergies, medications, doctor and insurance phone numbers and ID numbers, immunization schedule, and fingerprints (these don't change, so investing the time to have a set made is worth it). If the unspeakable happens, the ability to hand over instant, concise information to authorities may prove invaluable. Update it before every trip.

— Robin Flannery
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Hotels
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Finding the bathroom in the middle of the night in a strange hotel room or cruise-ship cabin can be a challenge. Leaving the bathroom light on seems wasteful and makes the room too bright for sleeping. My husband and I used to travel with a night-light, but we couldn't always find a convenient place to plug it in. We've recently discovered a better solution: plastic light sticks. They come in several glow-in-the- dark colors and are activated by bending the tube into a circle and connecting the ends. Each evening, we hook one of the loops over the bathroom-door handle, where it provides a gentle glow through the night.

— Carol Attar
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Hotels
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Need a place for a laptop in your hotel room? Take the largest drawer from the bureau and put it upside down on the bed with the drawer front away from you. This creates a perfect-height desk for while you're sitting comfortably on the bed (you can even lean back on pillows), plus there's side space for papers, and the top leans toward you for easy typing or writing.

— Linda Diebold Johnson
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376253

Carry a twist tie in your wallet. Among other ingenious uses, a twist tie can temporarily replace a lost screw on a pair of glasses. Just peel the paper or plastic off the tie so you have bare wire, insert it where the screw once was, and twist to tighten. Unlike Scotch tape or a safety pin, a twist tie is small enough to remain hidden and strong enough to hold until you're able to replace the screw.

— Suzanne Prendergast
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Safety
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I don't go anywhere without individual packets of antibacterial wipes. I slip some in my carry-on, daypack, and shirt pocket. They're very convenient when you can't find any running water with which to wash your hands. And because they're antibacterial, they're also great for cleaning cuts, and the alcohol from the wipes helps stop the itching when you rub them on insect bites.

— Lawrence Brenner
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Loyalty Programs
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After I was unable to locate any awards seats online for a wide selection of days and routes, I called the airline. An agent told me that the airline's Web site isn't allowed to book awards seats for its partner airlines, but agents can. Within minutes, I had enough options that I found it difficult to make a decision.

— Carol Muth
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Planning
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Some international airlines still give passengers a goody bag that includes a toothbrush, an eye mask, and socks for the flight. Keep those socks: They're handy when visiting temples in Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia, where you must remove your shoes before entering. I slipped on the socks and my feet stayed both clean and warm!

— Nancy Easterbrook
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Packing
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There's nothing worse than trying to fall asleep under a mosquito net and then realizing that the bugs are finding a way inside. So next time you're heading someplace tropical--where you know you'll be sleeping under mosquito netting--remember to toss a roll of Scotch tape into your suitcase. It's perfect for quick repairs.

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Car Rentals
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I always have problems locating my rental car in a large parking lot. Now I bring along a brightly colored bandanna and tie it to the antenna.

— Tamara Johnson
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Save major bucks by going onto eBay and purchasing coupons and gift certificates that others don't want or can't use for lodging, transportation, food, and admissions. I've found great discounts for airline and Amtrak tickets; car rentals; entrance to amusement parks such as SeaWorld, Disney, or Universal Studios; as well as overnights at many hotels. For example, I bought a $30 savings coupon at SeaWorld for only $1. Simply search for your destination and then type in "coupon" or "gift certificate."

— Nathaniel V. Greenwood
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Before I embark on a trip, I cover the dirt of my potted plants with plastic bags after watering them well. (Cut a few slits in the bags and keep plants out of direct sunlight.) The soil will stay damp for about three weeks.

— Jean Walsh
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Hotels
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If you plan to leave a gratuity for hotel staff, follow our friend Phil's good advice: Give it at the beginning of your vacation, not at the end. He introduces himself to the housekeepers early in the trip and hands them a nice tip. Guess who always has plenty of coffee and fresh towels?

— Lou Stover
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Planning
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If you book a package over the Internet, print out all the details of what's included and take it with you. When a hotel desk clerk in Paris said that the breakfast buffet we had enjoyed for the previous seven mornings was not included in our package, I was able to show him the printouts and prove him wrong. He apologized profusely and wiped the breakfast charges from our bill.

— John Lavelle
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Packing
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Use the shoeshine mitt often found in hotel bath- rooms to store your sunglasses. They fit nicely inside the pouch, and when you take them out, you have a soft material to clean them with. For extra protection while traveling, I store my sunglasses inside the shoe-shine mitt, fold the end closed, and then place it in my glasses case.

— Dan Coviello
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Cruises
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Most cruise lines offer certain drinks for free--juice, lemonade, iced tea, coffee, milk, tea-but you'll have to pay for soda. If you're a caffeine addict, pack a bottle or two. Unlike on a plane, you won't have to worry about paying for the added weight.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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My husband and I keep the stretchy slipper-socks that some airlines provide. (We've gotten them on Virgin Atlantic in economy class and on almost all airlines in business class.) They're great to use when packing shoes: Just slip each shoe into a sock, and you'll prevent clothes from getting marked up by the soles. As a bonus, you'll have slippers to wear when you're away from home. The socks are machine-washable and can last for many years.

— Wendy Barr
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Transportation
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Before traveling by taxi in foreign (or even domestic) locations, ask a local (perhaps stopping in shops to question the sales staff) what the approximate taxi fare would be to a particular location. They've always been pleased to help me. In this manner, I can avoid paying the inflated tourist rates!

— Carol P. McCrea
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Create your own postcards by writing on the back of photographs that you've taken and developed while still on your trip.

— Connie Van Brocklin
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Packing
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My husband packs Q-tips in a plastic cassette case. It's small and snaps shut, keeping the cotton swabs clean and dry.

— Nancy Bastian

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