LIVE TALK

Transcript: San Francisco

Sharron Wood answered your questions on vacationing in San Francisco on March 16, 2004

San Francisco is the most visited city in the United States--and with good reason. Top-notch restaurants, a wide variety of museums and other cultural attractions, and quirky neighborhoods that reflect the styles of its even quirkier residents are packed into a tiny picture-perfect peninsula, easily traversed on public transportation and by foot (hills notwithstanding). Tiny seaside towns, mountain landscapes, and the elegant B&Bs of the Wine Country are also easily accessible by car once you've had your fill of the urban experience.

You can certainly find what you're looking for in San Francisco, but it helps to know your own mind, and to know where to look. While some visitors will want to prowl around the gritty Tenderloin, searching out the best budget Vietnamese restaurants, others would be much happier having pastries and espresso at a fabulous French bakery. So whether your idea of a night on the town involves dancing to DJs spinning or sipping cocktails at a skyline piano bar, I'll point you in the right direction. I'm also happy to answer any questions on hotels, sightseeing and transportation.

Sharron answered your questions Tuesday, March 16, at noon EST.

Since moving to San Francisco almost 15 years ago, Sharron Wood has contributed to more than a dozen travel guides to San Francisco and California. She is also the author of Chow! San Francisco Bay Area: 300 Affordable Places for Great Meals and Good Deals. Her most recent writing projects have focused on San Francisco restaurants, nightlife, and shopping, and the Wine Country just north of the city. When she's not working on travel guides, she's probably editing a cookbook, baking, or shaking cocktails for her friends. Despite her fondness of travel, especially to cold, windswept places and islands where she can scuba dive, her love of San Francisco means she is always happy to return home, where the attitudes are tolerant, the food is world-class, the weather is practically perfect, and she's constantly surprised by astounding views.

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Sharron Wood: Hi there. I'm happy to answer your questions about visiting San Francisco!

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Orlando, FL: What is your favorite Chinese restaurant--not dim sum?

Sharron Wood: In Chinatown I like R&G Lounge. The downstairs is more casual; upstairs is more elegant. They specialize in unusual Hong Kong-style specialties, including lots of extremely fresh seafood.

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Washington, DC: I'm going to San Francisco for a long weekend with my boyfriend. We are staying at Fishermen's Warf at the Marriott. I'd like to take him out one night for a romantic dinner. What would you recommend? It doesn't have to be at Fishermen's Wharf, but within a reasonable cab ride and a memorable and NICE place. I would like to make make it a surprise. I would appreciate any recommendations. We like Greek food, but any foods are fine. Thank you.

Sharron Wood: Very close to Fisherman's Wharf is a restaurant that is generally regarded one of the very restaurants in San Francisco--Gary Danko. Gary Danko, who was a chef at the Ritz Carlton before opening this restaurant, cooks beautifully decadent food in a sleek, sedate setting. Of course, you'll pay for the privilege of eating there. Another favorite is in Ghirardelli Square - but, oddly, does not get many tourists, probably because it doesn't really have a view of the water. Ana Mandara, in a dramatic, high-ceilinged warehouse, serves upscale Vietnamese food, like sea bass wrapped in banana leaves. The bar upstairs is elegant and sometimes has live music. It's my pick for a romantic dinner in that part of town. Kokkari Estiatorio, an upscale Greek restaurant, is widely considered the best Greek restaurant in town, and it is only a short cab ride from the Fisherman's Wharf area.

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Virginia Beach, VA: Sharron, My girlfriend and I can't hardly wait to arrive on Saturday. We will be staying a week. The only reservations we have are the rental car and the first two nights we will be at the Hyatt. Our plan is to leave to head North on Monday after rush hour. Two days in Napa and then we will be heading down to the Monterey/Carmel area. We are the type that like to be flexible, stopping along the way to explore. My question is this: Will I be able to find accommodations without a reservation in both Napa and in Monterey and/or Carmel? I would rather not stay in a chain hotel. I am not cheap but not trying to break the bank. Any ideas? Thank you for your consideration. Also is Muir Woods worth the trip?

Sharron Wood: It's not hard to find a place to stay without a reservation this time of year in Napa; it's the off season, and things are pretty slow (in a nice way) up there now. There are lots of options up there that aren't chains; some of the better bargains are in the towns that are on the far end of the valley, further away from San Francisco, like Calistoga. Brannan Cottage Inn is one reasonably priced Victorian-style spot in Calistoga. Muir Woods is very pretty, but the paved paths and crowds mean that it's not exactly a dramatic nature experience. If you're an outdoorsy sort and like hiking (as opposed to strolling through the trees), I'd suggest going for a hike on adjacent Mt. Tamalpais instead.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Hotels
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If you can't sleep due to the heat in your non-air-conditioned hotel room, take a cold bottle of water and place it on your pillow, in the crook of your neck. It will cool your whole body down.

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Shopping
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Check out grocery stores in Europe for bargains on wine. On our last trip to Italy, I found a 1993 Banfi Brunello in a small market for $16. If I could find it at all in my local wine shop, that same bottle would cost more than $100. I only wish I had listened to my husband and bought all three of the bottles the store had.

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I take each of my grandchildren on a road trip the summer each turns twelve. The trips range in length from two weeks to a month and require careful packing. I've learned to put our clothes and any snack items we'll need in large plastic bins that fit in the back of my minivan. We each bring a small bag and pack it every evening with items we'll need for that night and the next day: no lugging heavy suitcases in and out of motels or hotels.

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Car Rentals
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When renting a car, photograph any damage the car may have before leaving the rental agency; a digital camera records the date and time of each picture. On a recent trip to Argentina, I rented a car with extensive paint damage. When I returned the car, the agency attempted to blame me for the scratches. I showed them my photographs, and they rescinded their accusations.

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Transportation
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Carry the exact change for public transportation. In Venice, we were annoyed when a vaporetto (water taxi) ticket-taker refused to give us our change. Later, we discovered that if you don't have the exact fare, ticket agents make no promises about giving change.

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We all know to avoid drinking tap water in certain countries, but remember to forgo ice cubes, too. I've started bringing along two ice trays, which I fill with bottled water and freeze in my hotel room's mini-fridge.

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Shopping
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Anyone tired of the same boring postcards that are found at every roadside tourist trap should try shopping for vintage postcards at an antiques shop. They're a great addition to any photo album, as they often show what the local attractions looked like prior to development.

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Packing
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Frequent fliers should consider noise-cancellation headphones. They have a built-in device that "hears" low-frequency sound just before you do and generates a sound wave that cancels it out. Several manufacturers make them, ranging in price from $40 to $300 or so.

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Air Travel
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If your flight is canceled, don't just wait patiently in line to be booked on another flight; call the airline's 800 number. They'll answer your call faster, and you won't be waiting with other stranded passengers from that flight. (Or cover all bases by calling while in line.)

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Packing
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When I go on a trip that requires me to accessorize a number of outfits, I buy little Ziploc bags and place the appropriate jewelry/panty hose/scarf inside. Then I punch a hole just big enough to slide the bag over the outfit's hanger. This way, my panty hose stay snag-free and my jewelry never gets misplaced.

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Hotels
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On the final day of a recent Caribbean vacation, I tried to arrange for a late checkout, but was told it wasn't possible. The hotel offered me the use of a day room; it would have been perfect, but it was being used by other guests, and there was a very long wait for the shower. I went back upstairs and saw that someone was just about to clean my room. I told the housekeeper that I understood she had to do her job, but I wondered if I could I take a quick shower first. She offered to clean next door while I took my shower. I tipped her $10 and then left for the airport.

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Packing
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Use an empty M&M's Minis tube to carry quarters. The top holds tightly, but still pops open easily enough, and the size is perfect to slip into a car door or bag. I find it very useful when traveling by car (for tolls and parking meters) and by airplane (for luggage carts or newspapers).

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Air Travel
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The middle seat isn't always awful. On a recent trip overseas, I called too late to confirm an aisle or window seat. After explaining the plane's AB-CDEFG-HI configuration, the customer service agent urged me to take the very middle seat, E, because D and F have less foot room. (In some rows, there are metal boxes underneath the seats in front of you that house wiring for onboard electronics.) I went along with her advice somewhat skeptically, but I ended up with plenty of room. The people on either side of me weren't so lucky.

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Cruises
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Cruise lines offer packaged side trips at their ports of call. If you go online and look for these expeditions ahead of time, you can book directly with the tour companies and save money.

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Packing
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An extra contact lens case holds enough toiletries for a short trip. Squeeze a few dabs of toothpaste into one side and perhaps some facial cleanser or moisturizer in the other side. Just the right amount of each will fit for your overnights or weekends away.

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Planning
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While traveling, I love to send postcards to friends--and also to myself. I get the best photo postcard of the place I visited and write down what I did there as a reminder. When I get home, I tape them in my travel journals so I can flip back and forth between the photo and the reverie.

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Planning
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Transportation
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Packing
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Packing
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If you're traveling with a companion, pack half of your belongings in his or her suitcase and vice versa. This way, if one piece of luggage gets lost, you'll each still have some clothing.

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Planning
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Play Let's Make a Deal when you're shopping for vacations at travel shows or expos. Go armed with your own research and a credit card.(You're likely to get a better price if you know what the vacation is worth, and if you're willing to buy it on the spot.) I picked two Caribbean cruises and headed to the New York Times Travel Show. After haggling with the competing cruise lines, I was offered the first cruise for $50 less than the best price I'd found online, and they threw in free trip insurance. In the end, I chose the second—$30 off with a free upgrade to a balcony stateroom—and truly got a bargain.

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Air Travel
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When you change your clocks back or forward, be sure to check the expiration date on all your frequent-flier miles. This way they're checked twice a year. We overlooked one of the many accounts in our household and lost a free ticket when the miles expired.

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Car Rentals
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Whenever I know I'll be renting a car, I pack a couple of folded paper towels and two small spray bottles--one filled with window cleaner and the other with Rain-X, a product that repels raindrops. It's hard enough driving an unfamiliar car in an unfamiliar location. At least with a clean windshield I'm able to see properly, no matter the weather.

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Planning
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Most hotels provide cloth shoe mitts but not polish. In a pinch, a dollop of skin cream on a shoe mitt (or even a tissue) can make scuff marks vanish and leave shoes as shiny as if they'd been cleaned by a pro.

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Packing
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During a visit to Mexico City, I was sitting in a plaza near a fountain, watching the locals stroll around in their Sunday best. Nearby, an older gentleman was playing a concertina; his music perfectly framed the scene. I took lots of pictures, but I didn't have a way to capture that music. Now I pack a small tape recorder along with my camera.

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Technology
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If you're even slightly tech savvy and have a cell phone that will work overseas, check with your service provider about the cost of text messages. Some carriers offer free incoming text messages, and several Internet search engines (Yahoo, MSN, etc.) will send free text-message "alerts" to your phone while you're away. Prior to your trip, log on and request that weather forecasts and news updates be sent to your number daily. Even if you never use your phone for costly overseas calls, you can receive up-to-the-minute information, in English, about your hometown or cities on your itinerary.

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Loyalty Programs
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Preserve even the small number of frequent-flier miles you may obtain by making occasional use of a particular carrier; the miles can be worth money. Even if you don't regularly fly on Delta, Northwest, Continental, or several other airlines, sign up for their frequent-flier programs when you book a long or overseas flight. Points.com allows you to redeem miles for magazine subscriptions, music downloads, and other products. You can also use miles to get small discounts on purchases at retailers such as Amazon.com.

— Jonelle Niffenegger
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Planning
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Don't be too quick to grab one of those GST tax-rebate envelopes that are everywhere in Canadian airports. The envelopes look official, but they're really from companies that process the request for you and often pocket 15 percent or more. Instead, go to the Canada Revenue Agency Web site (cra-arc.gc.ca), download the Application for Visitor Tax Refund, and then file the request yourself. Your check will arrive in a few weeks. Just remember to get your receipt stamped by the Canada Border Services Agency at the airport.

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