ROAD TRIPS

Hidden California

Nestled in the Anza-Borrego Desert is a little oasis of tranquility...and low-cost fun

When you hear the words "Palm Canyon Drive," you probably think of the main drag in Palm Springs, with its Rolls Royces, expensive department stores and leather-skinned ladies with Gucci bags and too much jewelry. But did you know there's another Palm Canyon Drive in another California desert community that is known more for its casual, friendly locals, rustic, inexpensive motels, and charming hole-in-the-wall eateries?

Yep, if you're looking for the ultimate in quiet, relaxing, low-frills/low-cost desert getaways, don't head for the Palms, consider the "other" Springs: Borrego Springs, a tiny but scenic and well-equipped, visitor-friendly desert town happily isolated within the 600,000-acre Anza-Borrego Desert State Park -- America's largest desert state park. Borrego Springs -- known to most of the locals simply as Borrego -- is what Palm Springs probably was, say, 50 years ago. But it's doubtful if Palm Springs was ever this charming, this peaceful.

Borrego is surrounded by rocky peaks inhabited by rare bighorn sheep and blessed with a bountiful array of nature's wonders. A two-hour drive from either San Diego or Los Angeles, Borrego provides an old-school desert ambiance that reinvigorates the spirit and refreshes the mind. There are no traffic signals in sun-drenched Borrego, no Starbucks, no long lines, and, as a result, no stress. All you need to remember are these three magic words: relax, explore, save.

Pillow talk

Borrego offers several economical lodging options, perhaps the best being Palm Canyon Resort on Palm Canyon Dr., 800-242-0044. With rooms as low as $70 a night, the Palm Canyon, which looks like an Old West town from the outside, offers a pool, BBQ area and fully stocked fitness area for all guests, and each room is equipped with a refrigerator, fresh brewed coffee and hair dryers.

Another inexpensive but comfortable option is the Stanlunds Resort Inn and Suites on Borrego Springs Rd., 760-767-5501. The Standlunds, whose October-May rates are as low as $75 a night, offers a pool, private patios, a BBQ facility, continental breakfasts on weekends, and coffee in all rooms. And it, too, is right in the heart of town.

But the real story in Borrego is the surrounding Anza-Borrego desert and its open-camping policy, which means you're free from the restrictions of designated campground areas found at more densely populated parks such as Yosemite and Sequoia. Visitors to this state park can explore a virtually limitless range of camping experiences unmatched anywhere in the country. There are also plenty of RV spaces. Campers can call 767-5311 for more information.

The blossoming desert

An early spring trip to Borrego is what we advise. In the spring, there are all kinds of things to do and see. The desert and mountain wildflower season, which runs from February through April, is a sight to behold. Bring your camera. A favorite annual spring event is the Grapefruit Festival, the third week of April. Capping off the wildflower season, the festival includes special events live music, dances, a tennis tournament, picnic, classic car show, youth games, interpretive programs at the state park, and more.

And both you and the kids will love going "critter watching." Who says there's no life in the desert? Borrego is loaded with wildlife in the spring. Just driving through town, you'll see coyotes -- don't worry, they're more scared of you than you are of them -- as well as road runners, jack rabbits, and much more.

The Anza-Borrego Desert State Park offers a virtually limitless range of jaw-dropping scenery. Highlights include Font's Point, Borrego Palm Canyon, 17 Palm Oasis, Southern Emigrant Trail and Split Mountain. The park also offers a wide variety of programs, films, tours, etc., covering areas such as paleontology, geology, animal/plant life, astronomy, history and more. The park's main visitor center is just outside of town, west of Palm Canyon Drive, 760-767-4205. Helpful websites include statepark.org/ and borregosprings.com/.

Simple pleasures

There are several inexpensive public golf courses, and Borrego is also a perfect place to play tennis. At Borrego Springs Tennis Club there are four lighted courts available to the public, and at Borrego Springs High School and Elementary School, a total of three courts are available when school is out. All hotels and motels in Borrego have pools, and the high school pool is open to the public in the summer.

Another fun idea when visiting Borrego is to bring your telescope. Because the area is surrounded on all sides by mountain ranges (which help block out interfering light), Borrego is one of the best places in America for stargazing, with crystal clear desert skies.

There aren't a whole bunch of dining choices, but the ones that are there are charming and fun. They include Borrego Pizza, Etc., 767-4310, Crosswinds at the Airport, 767-4646, George's & Family Little Italy, 767-3491, Kendall's Cafe, 767-3491, La Casa del Zorro, 1-800-824-1884, Pablito's of the Desert, 767-5753, and the Coffee & Book Store, 767-5080.

The County Airport at Borrego Springs has a lighted 5,000-foot runway and offers fueling and space for overnight or longer stays. But the best way to get to Borrego is by car. Just drive from wherever you are, or take a cheap flight to San Diego or McClellan-Palomar Airport (in north San Diego County, just east of Carlsbad), rent a car and take the scenic, relaxing two-hour drive away from the city and out to Borrego.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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I live in coastal Florida, where the electricity sometimes goes out during violent storms. Before a trip, I place a few ice cubes in a plastic bag and put the bag in the freezer. If the ice has melted and refrozen by the time I get home, I'll know we've had a power outage and that any food left in the refrigerator may be unsafe to consume.

— Brigitte Emick
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I bought several items while in London and noticed when I returned home that my credit card number was printed in full on each sales slip. (In the United States, usually only the last four digits of the number are visible.) Travelers should be careful when using their credit cards overseas--don't leave the sales slips lying around.

— Jackie MacNeil
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Don't be too quick to grab one of those GST tax-rebate envelopes that are everywhere in Canadian airports. The envelopes look official, but they're really from companies that process the request for you and often pocket 15 percent or more. Instead, go to the Canada Revenue Agency Web site (cra-arc.gc.ca), download the Application for Visitor Tax Refund, and then file the request yourself. Your check will arrive in a few weeks. Just remember to get your receipt stamped by the Canada Border Services Agency at the airport.

— Tony Reynolds
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If you visit a country where you don't speak the language, pick up a book of your hotel's matches or one of its business cards; they usually have the hotel's name and address printed on them. Then when you're out sightseeing and want to return to your hotel, show the matchbook or card to the cabdriver if he doesn't speak English.

— Verne F. Noyes
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Packing
368272

During the hot months of summer, I plan to travel with a very small spray bottle. I'll fill it with water and use it as a mister to keep cool. I got this idea when we stayed at the Noga Hilton in Cannes. On the dresser was a pink aerosol can full of Evian water. I took it with us sightseeing and, wow, it was so refreshing to spritz water on our faces.

— Joy Shebroe
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Hotels
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If you make a hotel reservation online and then cancel online, print out and save the cancellation confirmation for at least two billing cycles past your trip. After our vacation, I found a "no-show" charge on my credit card for a room that I'd canceled well in advance. Without the confirmation, I had no way to contest the bill.

— Karen Griffith-Hedberg
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Technology
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Before traveling to any city, do a search on the Internet of the city name and the word "coupon" ("New Orleans coupon"). You will find many sites offering two-for-one, percentage-off, and dollar-off discounts. On a recent trip to St.Louis, we saved $100 at restaurants and attractions.

— Carolyn J. Kubacki
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Packing
381288

Place a fabric softener sheet in your suitcase when packing. It'll absorb odors and dampness and keep clothing smelling fresh. It's most beneficial in warm, humid climates and while at sea. I found this quite useful during my twenty-three years in the U.S.Navy.

— Edward Jewell
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Rather than risk losing your department-store credit cards and club-membership cards, you should really leave them behind when you go somewhere you won't need them. Your purse or wallet will be lighter and your worries fewer.

— George Bracken
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Easily packable, local specialty foods make great gifts for family and friends at home. At the huge Safeway in Kihei, Maui, we found a great selection of chocolate-covered macadamia nuts and Kona coffee beans in elegant gift boxes for far cheaper than in tourist-oriented shops. European grocery stores abound with gift ideas: British teas, French mustards and vinegars, and Italian olive oils are just a few examples. Just bear in mind that meats, produce, and other fresh items are a customs no-no.

— Jennifer Beach
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428616

Whenever I go somewhere, I bring a supply of postcards from my hometown. I write my name, address, and e-mail on the back, and offer a card to new friends so we can keep in touch. I also pack small souvenirs (key rings, etc.) that carry my local sports teams' logos. They make meaningful but inexpensive thank-you gifts for the small kindnesses that ease one's way during a trip.

— Linda Phelps
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Bring your own linens. They're useful in a million different ways. Obviously a soft cotton pillowcase makes those scratchy airplane pillows bearable, but it can also be used to gather loose items when deplaning. A nice sheet will cover up an ugly bedspread or sofa, and makes a great tablecloth or picnic blanket.

— Dori Egan
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Though they're often the best deals around, don't assume that packaged vacations always offer the biggest bang for your buck. My wife and I were ready to book an air/hotel package to Maui when we noticed a sale on Aloha Airlines ($280 round trip from Oakland). I added up the total cost of the trip if purchased separately and saved $400 over comparable packages from various tour operators. We used the extra money to stay in a nicer hotel and to rent a convertible!

— Kleem Chaudhary
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Once we know where we're going, my girlfriends and I divide up the list of things we'd like to do on our trip and put someone in charge of each item on the list. Then that person does the legwork by finding directions and prices, making reservations (if necessary), and researching nearby places to stop for a snack or a meal. Our method means that no one person is doing all the planning.

— Carol J. Leisch
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Give your children a coach's whistle in case they get lost; put it on a ribbon so they can wear it around their neck. The piercing sound may be annoying, but you'll definitely find them quicker!

— Chandra Huang
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Safety
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Whenever I'm in a country where drinking or brushing my teeth with the tap water is a risk, I cover the faucet handles in my hotel bathroom with a towel. As a result, I never accidentally turn on the faucet when I'm half asleep.

— Denise Crocker
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In order to keep track of my bags, I use a small metal bell--the kind dancers from India wear on their ankles. I thread it with fishing line and tie it to my carry-on. If anyone touches my bag after I set it down, the bell chimes. It's not a very obtrusive sound, but it's distinctive enough for me to notice if a thief is trying to get into my things. The same bell can be hung on the doorknob inside your hotel room.

— Jim Hall
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Need a place for a laptop in your hotel room? Take the largest drawer from the bureau and put it upside down on the bed with the drawer front away from you. This creates a perfect-height desk for while you're sitting comfortably on the bed (you can even lean back on pillows), plus there's side space for papers, and the top leans toward you for easy typing or writing.

— Linda Diebold Johnson
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I used to lug around a clothes steamer and adapter to stay wrinkle-free while on the road, but I've since opted for something more low-tech. I now travel with a Platypus collapsible bottle and a spray bottle head. After checking into my hotel, I immediately hang my clothes and give them a spritz with water from the spray bottle. After several hours, the wrinkles fall out, and the clothing is dry and ready to wear.

— Dr. Cornelia Cho
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Before setting off on one of my many backpacking excursions, I head to Kinko's to rebind my guidebook. I replace the cover with a plain black or navy one. It costs about $6 and allows me to blend in much better while traveling. People see my new book as a journal, not a travel guide that labels me a tourist.

— Michelle Johnson
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To find a reasonably priced villa or apartment to rent, try going directly to the owner through a site such as abritel.fr. (Click on the British flag for English.) I arranged to spend two weeks in an apartment in Brittany and one week in an apartment in the Loire Valley, all for a total of $800.

— Suzanne Maurice-Roberts
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Just before a trip to Spain, I emailed myself a list of addresses of the friends and family I might want to email while away. At a cybercafe, I was able to simply cut and paste the list into the address line of a new message.

— Rita Young
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Transportation
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Driving around Italy last summer, my husband and I found that even the most detailed maps left us scratching our heads in confusion. Desperate and lost, we decided to follow a tour bus. Guess what? It got us exactly where we wanted to go.

— Cindy Marcus
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Make your cabin homier by packing a small collapsible vase and a bouquet of flowers.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Before you leave the United States, photocopy receipts for any expensive items you're taking with you. This way, you won't have to argue with customs on the way home about declaring items you didn't buy abroad. (I'm a photographer, and I always bring expensive cameras on vacations.)

— Derrick Du
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When traveling in the developing world, I always bring several packets of stickers to give to children. They're wonderful icebreakers.

— Linda Vogel
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If you're planning to use an ATM abroad, make sure the money you need is in your checking account, because some foreign ATMs don't allow access to savings accounts. And remember to carry your bank's local phone number with you; 800 numbers generally don't work overseas.

— Donna Johnson
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Pick just two colors to mix and match throughout your trip. You'll cut down on luggage, not least because you won't have to bring a bunch of shoes to match a wide assortment of colors.

— Lori Fields
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You can enjoy free airport-area parking by staying the night before departure at an airport hotel or motel that offers park-and-fly rates. The cost of that overnight (which usually entitles you to two weeks of parking) is much less than what you'd otherwise pay at an airport parking lot.

— Mike Saloudek
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Hotels
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The magnets you use on a refrigerator will also stick well to most hotel and motel room doors, turning them into makeshift bulletin boards. Post theater tickets, itineraries, reminder notes, and any other useful information, then grab what you need before you leave the room for the day.

— Karen Hartz

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