The Florida Keys

How to holiday--affordably--in the fab Florida Keys

Ever since Bogey and Bacall sailed away to Key Largo, the string of coral islands at the southern tip of Florida has captured the imagination of Americans with its promise of romance, breezes, and sparkling waters. Unfortunately, this bit of paradise doesn't come cheap, with glorified motels often charging in the mid-hundreds even in low season. This is most true in the most famous, and admittedly the prettiest, of the islands: Key West, that Victorian-era seafaring town that has lured artists, boaters, and colorful misfits alike for well over a century.

Well, shady lanes and dollhouse inns are nice places to park your bags, but as proud tightwads we prefer to bunk and eat elsewhere in the Keys and check out the charms of Key West as a day trip. That being said, elsewhere in the Keys the gougers still outnumber the bargains by far, but we've identified the very best deals up and down Overseas Highway (also known as U.S. 1, the spine of these parts), with delightful rooms running as low as $45 and delicious dinners under $10.

But first, a reality check: If visions of endless beaches and sugary sands are dancing in your head, the Florida Keys has something different in store. Some sand--in reality, eroded coral reef--but it tends to be coarse and the mangroves hugging much of the coastline can turn the water brackish. What these teeny tiny islands do offer is glorious scenery, wildlife, and some of America's best fishing, boating, snorkeling, scuba diving at some of the planet's most important reef systems. Which is not to say that all who come are marine maniacs: long and lazy days of sunning, reading, and swimming pool action are high on many a visitor's list.

To get here, the best option is to fly on one of many budget airlines--JetBlue, Southwest, AirTran, Song--into Miami. Fort Lauderdale is usually cheaper, but adds about forty minutes to your drive down. Then rent a car (most run about $150 a week in high season, less on Priceline.com). The Florida Turnpike offers an uneventful 35-mile drive down through Homestead and Florida City, on the edge of the Everglades wilderness. From there, U.S. 1 threads another 30 miles through wetlands to Key Largo, the first and largest of the Florida Keys; from there it's another 100 miles or so to the end of the line--Mile Marker 0--in Key West. The highway skips from island to island, often alongside the crumbling railbed of the original overseas railway, built in 1912. Although the whole archipelago only takes about two hours to drive, choose your base depending on your tastes: diving (stay on Key Largo in the Upper Keys), history and culture (near Key West in the Lower Keys), or tropical seclusion (try any of the Middle Keys).

The upper Keys

Stretching 40 miles from Key Largo down to Tavernier and Islamorada, the Upper Keys offer convenience (decent shopping, near the mainland), as well as the terrific John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park ($2.50/person, Mile Marker 102.5, Key Largo, 305/451-1621). America's first underwater state park, it has a decent beach, nature trails through fascinating mangrove swamps, and stunning coral reefs where you can snorkel, scuba, or take a glass-bottom boat on the crystal-clear water. Stop also at the Florida Keys Wild Bird Center ($5 per car, MM 93.6, 305/852-4486, fkwbc.org/) for a stroll through its tropical hammock forest and a chance to see endangered local birds (pelicans, osprey) being nursed back to health. Islamorada is also one of the few places in the Keys where boaters have easy access to both the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico (Marathon and Key West are two others).

For more serious nature lovers, a day trip 28 miles north to the Everglades National Park (enter via Florida City) offers a chance to see not just alligators and all manner of bird life, but also what South Florida was like before the arrival of cars and strip malls.

Among the few reasonably priced lodgings hereabouts, three properties stand out: First as you drive south on Islamorada, at MM 99.5 are next-door neighbors Sunset Cove Resort (877/451-0705, sunsetcovebeachresort.com/) and the Hungry Pelican Resort (305/541-3576, hungrypelican.com/), two Gulfside getaways. They offer shaded, quirky bungalows within walking distance to the shops and eateries in town. Most are $65 to $90 with a range of amenities; some have kitchens, but count on AC, cable, and free breakfast. Sunset Cove, in particular, evokes the Keys' free-spirited vibe with its whimsical animal sculptures--lions, rearing bears, a big brontosaurus--dotting the grounds.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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It's unnecessary to make a packing list for each trip. Instead, draw up a master list with everything you might need on any given trip--from ski goggles to snorkels, slippers to saline solution. Save it on your computer. Before you start packing, cross out anything you don't need for that particular trip.

— Bonnie Herbst
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Family Travel
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When my husband and I would stay in a hotel with our two-year-old, a full night's sleep was out of the question. The minute our son opened his eyes (at 2,3,or 4 a.m.), he woke us, thinking it was time to play. We now pack a pop-up tent and set it up in a corner of the hotel room with books, a blanket, and a few small stuffed animals. The tent folds down to a 14-inch circle and weighs about a pound. It works great! My son has his own "room" to sleep in when we vacation, and we all get to sleep through the night!

— Geri Kronyak
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Air Travel
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When you change your clocks back or forward, be sure to check the expiration date on all your frequent-flier miles. This way they're checked twice a year. We overlooked one of the many accounts in our household and lost a free ticket when the miles expired.

— Lynda Self
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Check out worldclimate.com to find monthly average temperatures and rainfall for thousands of cities worldwide. You can avoid countries during their rainy seasons, and the information is useful for figuring out what to pack.

— Elizabeth Bass
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Be certain to have enough blank pages in your passport. Someone I know had a terrible time getting per- mission to board a flight from Zambia to South Africa because she didn't have the two blank passport pages required to enter South Africa. Thank goodness my husband had read about the requirement. Before the trip, we sent our passports to the center in Charleston and had extra pages added at no charge.

— Patricia Beagle
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Hotels
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When I'm on the road, I often have to use the hotel iron before heading out to business meetings. But getting water into the iron can be a hassle--most irons won't fit under the sink faucet, and using a glass to pour water into the tiny hole is nearly impossible without spilling everywhere. There's an easy solution: Use the carafe from the coffee maker. Just be sure the carafe is clean, or you could end up with coffee stains on your clothes.

— Paul Schnebelen
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Cruises
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If you go directly from the air-conditioned ship out onto the open-air deck (which is usually warmer and more humid in most cruise destinations), your camera's lens is likely to fog up. Warm the camera with your cabin's hairdryer on a low setting or briefly leave it out on your balcony so it can acclimate to the weather.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Before setting off on one of my many backpacking excursions, I head to Kinko's to rebind my guidebook. I replace the cover with a plain black or navy one. It costs about $6 and allows me to blend in much better while traveling. People see my new book as a journal, not a travel guide that labels me a tourist.

— Michelle Johnson
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If the porters haven't delivered your luggage to your door by the first night of the cruise, check what our experts call the "naughty room." Security will store any bags containing contraband (like candles, alcohol, or coffeemakers) in this centralized location until you come claim it. You'll be able to pick up your bag on the first night, but banned items will not be returned until the end of the trip.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Most hotels provide cloth shoe mitts but not polish. In a pinch, a dollop of skin cream on a shoe mitt (or even a tissue) can make scuff marks vanish and leave shoes as shiny as if they'd been cleaned by a pro.

— John Nechman
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Air Travel
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Don't settle for the first answer to your travel question. If you need flight information, it's a good idea to phone the airline more than once and ask the same question. Recently, I wanted to see if I could fly standby on an earlier flight the same day. The first time I called, I was told that the earlier flight was booked. The second time, however, an agent said there were in fact seats available, and I could certainly fly standby. In the end, not only was I able to get on the flight, but I was upgraded to first class.

— Lynn Babcock
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Driving around Italy last summer, my husband and I found that even the most detailed maps left us scratching our heads in confusion. Desperate and lost, we decided to follow a tour bus. Guess what? It got us exactly where we wanted to go.

— Cindy Marcus
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Rather than automatically using your hotel's valet parking, you should check to see if there's an adjacent parking lot or garage that offers a better rate. On a recent trip, I was able to park across the street from my hotel for $10 per day--versus $27 per day to valet park with the hotel.

— Charles LaFleur
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If you visit a country where you don't speak the language, pick up a book of your hotel's matches or one of its business cards; they usually have the hotel's name and address printed on them. Then when you're out sightseeing and want to return to your hotel, show the matchbook or card to the cabdriver if he doesn't speak English.

— Verne F. Noyes
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Bring your own linens. They're useful in a million different ways. Obviously a soft cotton pillowcase makes those scratchy airplane pillows bearable, but it can also be used to gather loose items when deplaning. A nice sheet will cover up an ugly bedspread or sofa, and makes a great tablecloth or picnic blanket.

— Dori Egan
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Place a coin over the veins on the inside of your wrist (about two finger widths from the base of your palm) and secure it in place with a rubber band or ponytail holder. The gentle pressure of the coin will stimulate nerves that control nausea, just like the motion-sickness bands that are sold at drugstores.

— Connie Crusha
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Play Let's Make a Deal when you're shopping for vacations at travel shows or expos. Go armed with your own research and a credit card.(You're likely to get a better price if you know what the vacation is worth, and if you're willing to buy it on the spot.) I picked two Caribbean cruises and headed to the New York Times Travel Show. After haggling with the competing cruise lines, I was offered the first cruise for $50 less than the best price I'd found online, and they threw in free trip insurance. In the end, I chose the second—$30 off with a free upgrade to a balcony stateroom—and truly got a bargain.

— Michael Marcarello
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We've traveled to both Mexico and China in the last year and had the same experience in both countries: When we tried to exchange dollars to local currency, the banks wouldn't take bills with graffiti on them--telephone numbers, names, doodles, anything. Nor would they accept any bills that were torn or damaged. (We noticed a group from France having the same problem with their euros.) So before you leave home, make sure that any money you plan on exchanging is absolutely crisp and clean--or better yet, ask your bank specifically for brand-new bills.

— John Rybczyk
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To ensure the studs of pierced and delicate earrings don't get damaged, I put them in a film canister. An added benefit is that they're less likely to be stolen when left in a suitcase or hotel room, because thieves presume there's nothing inside but film.

— Alison Taylor Fastov
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If you plan to leave a gratuity for hotel staff, follow our friend Phil's good advice: Give it at the beginning of your vacation, not at the end. He introduces himself to the housekeepers early in the trip and hands them a nice tip. Guess who always has plenty of coffee and fresh towels?

— Lou Stover
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When booking a rental car online, click on "special offers" or "hot deals" to find the company's current promotional codes. Price your reservation using each code. Also, keep in mind that rates fluctuate according to seasons and slow periods. I managed to save more than $170 on a ten-day rental in Orlando, Fla.,by changing my reservation dates twice and by using different codes.

— Jeff Thomsen
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Before you book a room over the phone, peruse the hotel's site for its "Web only" rate. It's often cheaper than the best quote you'll get by calling. Recently, over the phone, I was quoted a daily rate of $129. I booked the same room online for $89.

— Ying Wang
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Before leaving on a trip, I print the names and addresses of my friends and family onto clear mailing labels. (All standard word-processing programs have preset templates for creating address labels.) Then, I take the address-label sheets with me on vacation. Since the addresses are already saved in my computer and the mailing labels are adhesive, addressing postcards has become really easy.

— Lisa Higgins
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Get the right maps. For road trips on the Continent, European maps are much more helpful when it comes to reading road signs. They'll say Napoli instead of Naples, Firenze rather than Florence. I could spend all day waiting for a road sign for Munich and miss the exit for Munchen.

— Cynthia Stone Stewart
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When not taking pictures, keep your memory card away from your camera. It's a simple method to ensure that any photographs you've shot will be safe even if your camera is stolen. My husband and I learned this lesson the hard way when we lost 250 shots of Kauai.

— Jamie Thomas
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When I called to book a hotel room in Budapest, I was offered a rate of $75 per night. After I told the concierge that I was looking for a room in the $35 range, he agreed to the lower price without much fuss. It sometimes pays to barter.

— Julie Jensen
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When we visit places we think we might return to, we collect copies of free tourist magazines. At home, we write the address of each magazine on a postcard. Six to eight weeks before our return visit, we send out the cards asking for a current copy. The magazines are full of useful information.

— F. Richard Leininger
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Bungee cords make versatile travel accessories. They come in handy at the airport for lashing a duffel bag to a wheeled suitcase. They can be hooked together and used as a clothesline for swimsuits, towels, etc. On skiing trips, hook them onto ski boots to create carrying handles. While camping, use them to secure tarps, to suspend a lantern from a nearby tree limb, or to secure items in a canoe. They even hold your pants up if you misplace your belt.

— Keith Saul
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When I travel with friends, we decide ahead of time who's going to bring what. If we're sharing a suite or have adjoining rooms, we don't need multiple hair dryers and umpteen bottles of shampoo. With the weight limits on baggage, we'll need the extra space in our suitcases for souvenirs!

— Haley Christensen
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Cruises
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The couple of hangers provided on cruise ships aren't enough for weeklong trips. So I save wire hangers from the dry cleaner and slip a few into our suitcases while packing. I then leave them behind for the next passenger.

— Wendy Maloney

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