The Middle East in New York City

Hookah bars, hummus meccas, and great Middle Eastern art make New York City an exotic, affordable place to live out all of your Arabian Nights fantasies

Perhaps you've always wanted to sail down the Nile, or drink tea with a carpet trader in Fez. Or maybe you dream of camel rides through the Sahara, laced with lazy evenings at lush oases. Whatever fantasies you harbor about that spectacular trip to the Middle East, chances are they've been on hold for the past couple of years.

But that doesn't mean you should miss out on everything the region has to offer. More than 150,000 immigrants of Egyptian, Palestinian, Lebanese, Moroccan and other origins live in New York, making up one of the country's most vibrant Arab communities. In just one short weekend here, you can fill up on Syrian sweets, dance to live Algerian rai, smoke an Egyptian hookah and have enough money left to buy a Turkish trinket or two for the folks back home.

Heavenly hummus, plate loads of pita

The best way to start a Middle Eastern weekend in New York is with a delicious breakfast at Mogador Cafe, a Moroccan fixture popular with a hip, bohemian crowd. Mogador's big draw is a superb $9.95 prix fixe brunch, but I prefer a plate of perfection modestly labeled Middle Eastern eggs ($6.50): two eggs cooked any style served with creamy hummus; tangy tabouleh made with bulgur, parsley and tomatoes; chopped salad; and pita sprinkled with olive oil and thyme. (Mogador Cafe, 101 Saint Marks Place. 212-677-2226).

For dinner, try Moustache, a casual Arabic eatery considered by many to be the best of its kind in Manhattan. Moustache's hot, fluffy pita works as a delightful scoop for their mezzeh appetizers such as smoky babaganoush ($4.50) or lentil salad ($4.50). Their entrees are mouthwatering too; try the baby lamb ribs, served juicy and tender with salad on the side ($13). Prepare for a long line at the West Village branch. (Moustache: 265 East 10th Street. 212-228-2022 / 90 Bedford Street. 212-229-2220)

Just a few blocks away, the same owners have introduced a slightly more upscale Middle Eastern experience to the neighborhood. Named after a dynasty of former Turkish slaves who ruled Egypt from the 13th to 16th centuries, Mamlouk lavishes diners with a $30 six course meal. Let yourself be transported by the Arabic fusion tunes and a tasteful decor of lanterns, cushions and tiles, and be sure to book a table in advance because there are only two seatings per night. (Mamlouk 211 East 4th Street. 212-529-3477)

An abundance of art

The biggest thrill of any trip to the Middle East comes from its legacy as the so-called "cradle of civilization." Settled for more than five millennia by nations whose scientific and architectural achievements continue to baffle today, the region boasts a spectacular wealth of tradition and culture not to be missed.

The best spot in New York to catch a glimpse of this old splendor is the Metropolitan Museum of Art (suggested donation $12), which houses one of the world's largest Ancient Egyptian collections. While there's no Pyramid to pose in front of here, the dazzling display of jewelry, mummies and paintings takes you to the same magical world inhabited by gods and Pharaohs thousands of years ago. You can even stroll through the Temple of Dendur, a 2,000-year old ruin which has been perfectly perserved in an especially built extension overlooking Central Park.

For a more recent example of Middle Eastern art, check out the Met's intricately decorated Nur al-Din Room. Plucked from a wealthy Syrian home in the 1700's, it boasts ornate wooden panels decorated with gilded Koranic inscriptions, and a beautiful colored marble floor. (Metropolitan Museum of Art. 1000 Fifth Avenue. 212-535-7710)

If it's contemporary art you're after, make a call to Alwan. One the most active Arab cultural venues in town, Alwan puts on several shows a week at its modest facilities in the financial district, featuring anything from traditional music concerts to poetry readings and photography exhibits .Admission usually costs $20 or less and you're almost guaranteed to catch some pretty good artists. (Alwan, 16 Beaver Street. 646-473-0991)

Arabian nights

Middle Eastern nightlife in New York revolves around three key elements: live music-much of it fusion jazz or modern rai (an infectious kind of rock developed by North African immigrants in France), hookahs (water pipes used for smoking fruit-flavored tobacco), and belly dancing.

Tagine, a Moroccan restaurant with a lousy kitchen and a great bar, books some excellent bands and belly dancers. Friday and Saturday nights are packed, so call ahead.(Tagine Dining Gallery: 537 9th Avenue, 212-564-7292, $15 cover most nights.)

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Air Travel
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If you've accumulated more souvenirs on your trip than you can carry, drive your rental car up to curbside check-in, then return the vehicle and come back on the shuttle bus with only your carry-on. This only works if there's no check-in line, but can save dragging your luggage onto the shuttle bus, across parking lots, etc.

— Robyn Volkening
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Air Travel
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If your flight is canceled, don't just wait patiently in line to be booked on another flight; call the airline's 800 number. They'll answer your call faster, and you won't be waiting with other stranded passengers from that flight. (Or cover all bases by calling while in line.)

— Karen LoPresto-Arbaugh
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Air Travel
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Though they're often the best deals around, don't assume that packaged vacations always offer the biggest bang for your buck. My wife and I were ready to book an air/hotel package to Maui when we noticed a sale on Aloha Airlines ($280 round trip from Oakland). I added up the total cost of the trip if purchased separately and saved $400 over comparable packages from various tour operators. We used the extra money to stay in a nicer hotel and to rent a convertible!

— Kleem Chaudhary
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Dining
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Going to a place where you don't speak the language? Take along a picture booklet filled with examples of common food items (chicken, cow, rice, bottled water, coffee, wine, etc.) and use it to find dishes you like—you only have to point to the picture of what you want. We did this during a recent trip to Asia and always had wonderful meals.

— Mario Gonzalez
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Shopping
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When my husband and I visit places like India or Thailand, we pack only one extra change of clothes. When we arrive, we hit a local market and buy local attire--woven shirts, saris, sarongs, etc. Not only does this make packing easier, but we get a better cultural experience and end up with lots of wearable souvenirs!

— Alice Fraser
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Hotels
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Before you book a room over the phone, peruse the hotel's site for its "Web only" rate. It's often cheaper than the best quote you'll get by calling. Recently, over the phone, I was quoted a daily rate of $129. I booked the same room online for $89.

— Ying Wang
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Packing
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Baby wipes aren't just for babies. Slip a travel-size pack into your carry-on bag and use the wipes to kill germs on public toilet seats and in phone booths. In a pinch, they can also remove stubborn stains from clothing.

— Farrah Farhang
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Packing
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I always pack several tea lights, a small vial of essential oils, and matches. Tea lights, when placed in a water glass for extra safety, banish stale or unpleasant smells in hotel rooms. The essential oils work wonders when a drop is placed on a warm lightbulb.

— Stephanie Hartselle
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Packing
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After looking for years for the perfect toiletries bag and being frustrated by many that were less than ideal, I finally discovered one that is just right: a soft-sided lunch box I bought at the supermarket. It has an outer zipped pocket with small compartments and slots perfect for often-used items like a toothbrush and toothpaste. There's a small removable zipper pouch inside (meant for a small ice pack) for those smaller, hard-to-find items like nail files and pill bottles. The remaining space inside is just right for larger items like shampoo and hand lotion. Other helpful features include both a small handle and shoulder strap and a waterproof, easy-to-clean interior. As an elementary school teacher, I know firsthand that it'll last: It was designed to withstand daily use by kids!

— Jennifer Minton
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Packing
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Batteries for cameras, laptops, cell phones, and other devices can be charged at night in your hotel room. But if you're doing a lot of driving, you might want to buy an inverter to charge them while on the road. Inverters (which plug into the car's cigarette lighter) are small, inexpensive, and can be purchased at auto-supply, variety, or electronics stores.

— Kay Euhus
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Photography
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Put an address label on your one-time-use camera. At a Final Four game in Indianapolis, we exchanged identical Kodak Fun Savers with another traveler so that we could take souvenir photos of each other with our respective cameras. But afterward, we couldn't tell whose camera was whose. Luckily, I remembered how many exposures remained on mine, so we got ours back. Next time, I'll just label it.

— Matthew Richard
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When you go to a convention or trade show, don't assume that the official prices at recommended hotels are the best you can do. Go to the hotel Web site. I recently got an AARP rate at a major hotel that was 30 percent below the special price offered through the tradeshow sponsors. AAA discounts often work, too.

— Duane Dahl
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Planning
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When we visit places we think we might return to, we collect copies of free tourist magazines. At home, we write the address of each magazine on a postcard. Six to eight weeks before our return visit, we send out the cards asking for a current copy. The magazines are full of useful information.

— F. Richard Leininger
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Dining
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I carry bilingual takeout menus when traveling to countries like China, Korea, and Vietnam. When I'm at a restaurant with no menu (or one that I can't read), I give mine to the waiter so he can point to dishes they can prepare. I've learned to pack a few extra menus, as the restaurants often like to keep a copy.

— Charles Locher
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Shopping
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Consider asking your driver or tour guide to haggle on your behalf at bazaars and souks. (But don't let them lead you to places where they might have a connection to the shopkeeper.) The money you tip them will usually be less than the markup on prices for tourists.

— Rami Aboumahadi
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Photography
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I travel with two cameras: a digital SLR for the majority of my shots, and a small disposable camera for when I ask strangers to take pictures of me. As much as I tend to trust other people, I'm not ready to hand over my $1,000 camera to someone I don't know at all.

— Sam Antonio
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Packing
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If you have to save receipts while traveling, purchase a plastic coupon holder to help you keep track of them (it'll also protect them). Label each section of the coupon holder by category (hotel, rental car, gas, food, etc.) or by day of the week. The coupon holders are compact and easily fit into a laptop case, purse, or travel bag.

— Ursalene Davis
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Air Travel
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I was booking tickets online for an upcoming flight to Europe from the East Coast. One particularly attractive fare was offered on a U.S. airline as well as on its foreign "partner airline." Same plane, same flight, same base price. But it was more than $100 cheaper per ticket to book with the foreign airline versus the U.S.one. We saved more than $400 for four tickets, but we'll be on the same plane!

— Lori Uhl
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When buying bottled water, look at the bottle cap to see if the seal is still intact. While visiting the Acropolis on a very hot day this summer, I caught a young boy refilling empty water bottles from a tap and recapping them. He was then selling the bottles to thirsty tourists.

— Alice Atkinson
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Hotels
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Before you go to sleep, check to see if a previous hotel guest left the alarm clock on. I've been awakened before 7 a.m. twice in the last couple of months by alarms I did not set. (Make sure the clock shows the right time, too!)

— Rachele Helphill
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When I'm on a cruise with my wife's family and we're in a foreign city for the day, I get off the boat as soon as we dock and hail a taxi. I ask the driver to call his dispatcher and find me a van with an English-speaking driver. Then I negotiate an hourly rate and a pickup time at the dock. The family tours together for a few hours, and then each couple either gets dropped off where they want to spend extra time or returns to the boat (this is great for my elderly in-laws). We get a tailor-made city tour for a much cheaper rate than if we had booked through the cruise line.

— Stuart Hanzman
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Before you head to the airport, make a list of all the items in your checked luggage that would be prohibited in your carry-on. If an item (such as a knife for a picnic) makes its way into your purse or daypack during your travels, it should be accounted for when repacking and put into the checked piece to avoid hassles at airport security.

— Nina Gormley
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Before you head to the airport, stop by the front desk of your hotel or cruise ship and ask if they'll print your boarding pass for you. It'll save Internet browsing fees and time at check-in. It's worked for me at several Marriott hotels and on a Celebrity cruise.

— Rose Jakubaszek
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Love researching your destination online, but don't know how to organize all those printouts, maps, guidebooks, and tips? I get a 5 x 7" spiral notebook (Mead makes one with a sturdy cover and a pocket insert), a set of index tabs, and some glue. Divide the notebook into sections with the tabs (sights, maps, currency converter, restaurants, etc.). Photocopy—in reduction mode—all the info you want to bring, and glue it into the appropriate section. I leave plenty of pages for my journals. This creates an all-in-one personal guide that you can read again years after your trip!

— Michele Graves
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Pack a glue stick for journaling. Rather than bringing home an envelope full of ticket stubs and mementos, you can glue them into your journal as you're traveling. You'll have a better chance of remembering what the ticket was for if you label it right away.

— Jon Chun
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Dining
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To feed a family of four in a very expensive tropical location like Anguilla or Bermuda (or most other Caribbean locations, for that matter), check to see if your hotel has phone books and look up the local pizza place. Nine times out of ten the pizza purveyors will deliver for free. You'll end up spending no more than $20 on pizza, bread sticks, and soda.

— Bianca Mims
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If you're traveling with someone, discuss a central meeting place in case you get separated. My husband and I were in Paris waiting to board the Metro. He was able to board the train, but I was left behind on the platform. Having a plan saved both time and needless anxiety.

— Marian Moss
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We've traveled to both Mexico and China in the last year and had the same experience in both countries: When we tried to exchange dollars to local currency, the banks wouldn't take bills with graffiti on them--telephone numbers, names, doodles, anything. Nor would they accept any bills that were torn or damaged. (We noticed a group from France having the same problem with their euros.) So before you leave home, make sure that any money you plan on exchanging is absolutely crisp and clean--or better yet, ask your bank specifically for brand-new bills.

— John Rybczyk
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Solo Travel
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When I travel to a new city, I check with the local running club to see if there are any events planned during my stay. The entry fee is usually donated to a charity, and I get great exercise, meet locals, and tour a part of the city I may not have known about.

— Kelly Christensen
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Technology
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My daughter and I bought disposable digital camcorders at a CVS pharmacy before going to Europe. It was a nice way to document our trip--each camera stored about 20 minutes of video. Once home, we dropped the cameras off at the pharmacy. The next day, our DVD was ready. We were very pleased with the quality and the cost: $30 for the camera and $13 for each DVD.

— Maria B. Murad

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