Quebec City Courts the Crowds

The soul of New France is now a sophisticated city of one million. Head north of the border to discover its charms for yourself

Quebec City is a nesting box of treasures. Round a corner, open a door, or climb one of the city's 60 staircases to the top and you never know what you'll find--a quiet gallery of Inuit art, world-class musicians playing for passersby, a cart selling ice cream made from local wild strawberries. Whether you're a first-time visitor or a resident, Quebec City has the ability to charm at every turn. Travelers of all budgets and interests will find something to their liking in this special corner of Canada, whose story is symbolized on building edifices and letterhead everywhere in the form of a sacred regional trinity: a Canadian maple leaf, French fleur-de-lis, and English rose. Its European roots run very deep, back some 1,000 years.

New France, Old France

Many wax poetic about how European French-speaking Quebec City, and for good reason--it's the only walled city north of Mexico and was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. The Old City, anchored by the imposing Chateau Frontenac (the most photographed hotel in the world), and historic port that spreads along the mighty, tidal waters of the St. Laurence River, are indeed reminiscent of France, each with enough ghosts and cobbled streets to conjure Old World visions. In fact, nowadays it often stands in as Europe for production companies that don't want to pay the way for crews to cross the pond. Taking Lives starring Angelina Jolie was the most recent movie to be filmed there.

Despite it being a scenic backdrop and riding on its reputation of an historic wonderland, it's winning the fight against "Disneyfication." Quebec City is far from being a theme park. Rather, it's a living breathing city of nearly one million now, working hard to forge a modern identity beyond the ramparts and quaint Vieille Ville. It's succeeding, evidenced by the cosmopolitan cocktail lounges that now dot the fringes of the Old Port, the funky coffee shops of the new Quartier, the world-reknown jazz bars on St. Joseph's Street, and the skateboarding punks that like to hang out in the Place D'Youville.

For centuries, Quebec City was one of the most important cities on the continent, and even went head-to-head against New York City as home of the United Nations. Walking around and speaking to people, however, you get the sense that the city is inching back onto the world stage. Local pride is at an all-time high, and no wonder. The economy is doing well; for many years graduates left for greater opportunities in Montreal or beyond, but now they're staying and building their professional lives closer to home. And, there's virtually no crime in Quebec City. Even during its Quiet Revolution in 1960 not a drop of blood was shed when local French Canadians fought for the same opportunities as their Anglo counterparts. And who wouldn't be proud of a city-wide art democratization mandate that states that one percent of public works' budgets must be used for art?

When it comes to dining, you simply can't go wrong in Quebec City, a town that gave birth to the region's modern day gastronomic revolution in the 1930's. Even a casual, on-the-hoof snack of a street crepe made with local cheese, a slice of "sugar pie," or a crusty sandwich offer unexpected satisfaction. For those who venture beyond the popular pedestrian streets, other treats await. One very special place to eat is the ornate dining hall inside the Parliament Building (three-course lunches $15, dinner $40). Who knows, you may even eat next to the Premier. Another relatively unknown spot is the restaurant tucked inside the Musee National des Beaux Arts du Quebec, or fine art museum of Quebec where a three-course lunch also goes for $15. For drinks, try the simple pleasure of nursing a maple beer purchased at the oldest grocery store in North America, J.A. Moisan, located at 699 rue Saint-Jean. The unusual brew just won the prestigious Prix D'Innovation, or Innovation Prize, in Paris.

L'Echaude Restaurant (http://www.echaude.com/, 73 rue Sault-au-Matelot) a 20-year-old bistro in the Old Port, which offers 10 wines by the glass (and a superb list of bottles), $10 three-course lunches called table d'hote ($16 for dinner), and the best steak tartare in the city, is another sure bet. And just down the street sits one of the city's most unusual hotels, L'Auberge Saint-Antoine, whose outstanding restaurant Panache officially opens this month. Whether you choose to stay at L'Auberge Saint-Antoine or not, a dinner by the artful chef Francoise Blais is mandatory during a visit to Quebec City. Blais's reverence for fresh ingredients and French Canadian cuisine shines through in every dish, creating a memorable festival of local flavors.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Turn off your fridge's icemaker before you leave home. And remember to empty the ice cube bin. The power was out for several days while I was away recently. When I got back, the melted ice had refrozen throughout the freezer compartment. It took forever to clean up.

— Mary C. Clements
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For fire-safety reasons, cabins don't have their own irons. Don't wait until the last minute to tackle your evening wardrobe. You can find shared irons down the hall in the laundry room, but lines often form before mealtimes. Opt for off-hours (like mornings).

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Scuba-diving vacations can get expensive. As I start planning a trip, I call one of the local PADI dive shops and ask the employees about accommodations nearby. They give me hotel connections I couldn't find on my own, and I often save enough to pay for my dives.

— Lyle Bennett
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Packing
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Bungee cords make versatile travel accessories. They come in handy at the airport for lashing a duffel bag to a wheeled suitcase. They can be hooked together and used as a clothesline for swimsuits, towels, etc. On skiing trips, hook them onto ski boots to create carrying handles. While camping, use them to secure tarps, to suspend a lantern from a nearby tree limb, or to secure items in a canoe. They even hold your pants up if you misplace your belt.

— Keith Saul
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If you're traveling solo and your room has a double bed, sleep on the side farthest from the phone. It's slept on less frequently and is therefore more comfortable.

— Ruth Schnur
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If you're even slightly tech savvy and have a cell phone that will work overseas, check with your service provider about the cost of text messages. Some carriers offer free incoming text messages, and several Internet search engines (Yahoo, MSN, etc.) will send free text-message "alerts" to your phone while you're away. Prior to your trip, log on and request that weather forecasts and news updates be sent to your number daily. Even if you never use your phone for costly overseas calls, you can receive up-to-the-minute information, in English, about your hometown or cities on your itinerary.

— Brian Mosteller
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Just before a trip to Spain, I emailed myself a list of addresses of the friends and family I might want to email while away. At a cybercafe, I was able to simply cut and paste the list into the address line of a new message.

— Rita Young
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Packing
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There's nothing worse than trying to fall asleep under a mosquito net and then realizing that the bugs are finding a way inside. So next time you're heading someplace tropical--where you know you'll be sleeping under mosquito netting--remember to toss a roll of Scotch tape into your suitcase. It's perfect for quick repairs.

— Christopher Swain
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Solo Travel
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If you're traveling solo and want some company for dinner, try the sushi bar at a Japanese restaurant. It's a great place to meet locals. Plus, you'll receive extra attention and special recommendations from the chef.

— Marcie Rubenstein
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Choosing a cabin is all about location, location, location. Check the ship's layout online before booking, and opt for a room with passenger floors above and below you. You don't want to try to sleep right under the disco, the casino, or the running track.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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The couple of hangers provided on cruise ships aren't enough for weeklong trips. So I save wire hangers from the dry cleaner and slip a few into our suitcases while packing. I then leave them behind for the next passenger.

— Wendy Maloney
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Loyalty Programs
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Preserve even the small number of frequent-flier miles you may obtain by making occasional use of a particular carrier; the miles can be worth money. Even if you don't regularly fly on Delta, Northwest, Continental, or several other airlines, sign up for their frequent-flier programs when you book a long or overseas flight. Points.com allows you to redeem miles for magazine subscriptions, music downloads, and other products. You can also use miles to get small discounts on purchases at retailers such as Amazon.com.

— Jonelle Niffenegger
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When I travel for business, I usually tack on a few extra days to do something active like hike in a nearby national park. I find that by taking two small suitcases instead of a single large one, I stay better organized and less burdened. I keep my business clothes, papers, and laptop in one bag and hiking clothes and gear in another. I leave the suitcase I'm not using at the time in the rental car and easily carry the lightweight case with the equipment and clothes I need into my hotel.

— Ellen Worthing
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To save space, pack items for travel that you can use in at least two ways. In a pinch, shampoo can double for detergent when washing your clothes (carry the bottle in a Ziploc bag in your suitcase); sandals or flip-flops also function as slippers; and a swimsuit cover-up can serve as a bathrobe.

— Patricia LaRock
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A small compass is a great travel aid. Aside from the obvious benefits during country drives or hikes, it's extremely helpful in navigating winding city streets and orienting yourself once you exit a subway station.

— William Schaeffer
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Disposable-camera lenses scratch just like any other lens would. Place a small piece of painter's tape (or another kind that won't stick too much) over the lens to protect it from contact with other items in your purse or backpack during travel.

— Hugo Scherzberg
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I was booking tickets online for an upcoming flight to Europe from the East Coast. One particularly attractive fare was offered on a U.S. airline as well as on its foreign "partner airline." Same plane, same flight, same base price. But it was more than $100 cheaper per ticket to book with the foreign airline versus the U.S.one. We saved more than $400 for four tickets, but we'll be on the same plane!

— Lori Uhl
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In order to keep track of my bags, I use a small metal bell--the kind dancers from India wear on their ankles. I thread it with fishing line and tie it to my carry-on. If anyone touches my bag after I set it down, the bell chimes. It's not a very obtrusive sound, but it's distinctive enough for me to notice if a thief is trying to get into my things. The same bell can be hung on the doorknob inside your hotel room.

— Jim Hall
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If you plan to visit a theme park, always bring a few sandwich-size Ziploc bags. They'll protect your cell phone and wallet when you're riding on flumes and other water attractions.

— Jack Bell
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Read the fine print on your rail pass. You can often use it to save money on other modes of public transportation. With a Scandinavian rail pass, for example, you'll pay less to ride the ferries. In Switzerland, a rail pass can get you free bus rides, as well as complimentary entrance to museums and discounts on funiculars and hotel accommodations.

— Jessica Lees
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I always snap photographs of scenic highway markers, park entrance signs, and the like. These informational photos are put into our album to help identify the many sites that we visited.

— Betty L. Cox
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Before you book a room over the phone, peruse the hotel's site for its "Web only" rate. It's often cheaper than the best quote you'll get by calling. Recently, over the phone, I was quoted a daily rate of $129. I booked the same room online for $89.

— Ying Wang
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If you're stranded overnight at an airport and receive a "distress rate" voucher, call the hotel of your choice before blindly following the airline's suggestion. You may find that for that discounted rate (or a few bucks more) you can stay in a hotel with a lot more amenities than the one the airline would put you in. After a long, mishap-filled trip, anyone can appreciate a really good mattress, a top-notch restaurant, and an indoor swimming pool.

— Carlos Martinez
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We like to buy shipboard souvenirs, so we try to choose a ship that's completing its run of an area--that's when merchandise is generally put on sale. Last year, for example, on a sailing in South America, all of the T-shirts, glassware, and rain jackets were 75 percent off.

— Carol Callahan
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My husband packs Q-tips in a plastic cassette case. It's small and snaps shut, keeping the cotton swabs clean and dry.

— Nancy Bastian
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I always pack a Petzl Tikka Plus headlamp. It's small, weighs next to nothing, and is perfect for reading in bed at night without disturbing my husband. They're sold online and at outdoor-gear stores for about $33.

— Linda Smejkal
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It's often cheaper to buy a ticket to London and then fly onward within Europe via a regional low cost airline. Last summer, my husband and I bought consolidator tickets to London for $397. From there, we flew EasyJet to Nice for $72. The total cost was $469—much less than flying directly to Nice, plus we enjoyed a stopover in London.

— Jasmine Tata
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If you visit a country where you don't speak the language, pick up a book of your hotel's matches or one of its business cards; they usually have the hotel's name and address printed on them. Then when you're out sightseeing and want to return to your hotel, show the matchbook or card to the cabdriver if he doesn't speak English.

— Verne F. Noyes
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The help of a concierge at an expensive hotel is available even if you're staying at a motel across the street. Go to the concierge with $5 (or whatever the assistance is worth to you) held discreetly but visibly in your hand. Chances are you won't be asked whether you're staying at the hotel. This worked for us once when we were stranded by a blizzard. We tried to rebook our flights on our own, but phones at the airlines were busy for two days straight. The concierge at a fancy hotel a few blocks away got through on his first try and managed to rearrange our flights for us.

— Janet Willer
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Hotels
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Try getting a discount on your hotel room by offering to pay in cash. A hotel reservationist suggested this approach when I phoned to reserve at a hotel in London. I asked if the hotel could grant a discount based on my AARP or AAA membership, as many hotels do in the United States. Her response was that the only discount she was able to offer was 10 percent if I paid in cash.

— Joan Nikelsky

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