Quebec City Courts the Crowds

The soul of New France is now a sophisticated city of one million. Head north of the border to discover its charms for yourself

Quebec City is a nesting box of treasures. Round a corner, open a door, or climb one of the city's 60 staircases to the top and you never know what you'll find--a quiet gallery of Inuit art, world-class musicians playing for passersby, a cart selling ice cream made from local wild strawberries. Whether you're a first-time visitor or a resident, Quebec City has the ability to charm at every turn. Travelers of all budgets and interests will find something to their liking in this special corner of Canada, whose story is symbolized on building edifices and letterhead everywhere in the form of a sacred regional trinity: a Canadian maple leaf, French fleur-de-lis, and English rose. Its European roots run very deep, back some 1,000 years.

New France, Old France

Many wax poetic about how European French-speaking Quebec City, and for good reason--it's the only walled city north of Mexico and was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. The Old City, anchored by the imposing Chateau Frontenac (the most photographed hotel in the world), and historic port that spreads along the mighty, tidal waters of the St. Laurence River, are indeed reminiscent of France, each with enough ghosts and cobbled streets to conjure Old World visions. In fact, nowadays it often stands in as Europe for production companies that don't want to pay the way for crews to cross the pond. Taking Lives starring Angelina Jolie was the most recent movie to be filmed there.

Despite it being a scenic backdrop and riding on its reputation of an historic wonderland, it's winning the fight against "Disneyfication." Quebec City is far from being a theme park. Rather, it's a living breathing city of nearly one million now, working hard to forge a modern identity beyond the ramparts and quaint Vieille Ville. It's succeeding, evidenced by the cosmopolitan cocktail lounges that now dot the fringes of the Old Port, the funky coffee shops of the new Quartier, the world-reknown jazz bars on St. Joseph's Street, and the skateboarding punks that like to hang out in the Place D'Youville.

For centuries, Quebec City was one of the most important cities on the continent, and even went head-to-head against New York City as home of the United Nations. Walking around and speaking to people, however, you get the sense that the city is inching back onto the world stage. Local pride is at an all-time high, and no wonder. The economy is doing well; for many years graduates left for greater opportunities in Montreal or beyond, but now they're staying and building their professional lives closer to home. And, there's virtually no crime in Quebec City. Even during its Quiet Revolution in 1960 not a drop of blood was shed when local French Canadians fought for the same opportunities as their Anglo counterparts. And who wouldn't be proud of a city-wide art democratization mandate that states that one percent of public works' budgets must be used for art?

When it comes to dining, you simply can't go wrong in Quebec City, a town that gave birth to the region's modern day gastronomic revolution in the 1930's. Even a casual, on-the-hoof snack of a street crepe made with local cheese, a slice of "sugar pie," or a crusty sandwich offer unexpected satisfaction. For those who venture beyond the popular pedestrian streets, other treats await. One very special place to eat is the ornate dining hall inside the Parliament Building (three-course lunches $15, dinner $40). Who knows, you may even eat next to the Premier. Another relatively unknown spot is the restaurant tucked inside the Musee National des Beaux Arts du Quebec, or fine art museum of Quebec where a three-course lunch also goes for $15. For drinks, try the simple pleasure of nursing a maple beer purchased at the oldest grocery store in North America, J.A. Moisan, located at 699 rue Saint-Jean. The unusual brew just won the prestigious Prix D'Innovation, or Innovation Prize, in Paris.

L'Echaude Restaurant (http://www.echaude.com/, 73 rue Sault-au-Matelot) a 20-year-old bistro in the Old Port, which offers 10 wines by the glass (and a superb list of bottles), $10 three-course lunches called table d'hote ($16 for dinner), and the best steak tartare in the city, is another sure bet. And just down the street sits one of the city's most unusual hotels, L'Auberge Saint-Antoine, whose outstanding restaurant Panache officially opens this month. Whether you choose to stay at L'Auberge Saint-Antoine or not, a dinner by the artful chef Francoise Blais is mandatory during a visit to Quebec City. Blais's reverence for fresh ingredients and French Canadian cuisine shines through in every dish, creating a memorable festival of local flavors.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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Family Travel
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Give your children a coach's whistle in case they get lost; put it on a ribbon so they can wear it around their neck. The piercing sound may be annoying, but you'll definitely find them quicker!

— Chandra Huang
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Planning
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Before setting off on one of my many backpacking excursions, I head to Kinko's to rebind my guidebook. I replace the cover with a plain black or navy one. It costs about $6 and allows me to blend in much better while traveling. People see my new book as a journal, not a travel guide that labels me a tourist.

— Michelle Johnson
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Hotels
443361

If you can't sleep due to the heat in your non-air-conditioned hotel room, take a cold bottle of water and place it on your pillow, in the crook of your neck. It will cool your whole body down.

— Tony van Hasselt
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Packing
407285

When I travel with friends, we decide ahead of time who's going to bring what. If we're sharing a suite or have adjoining rooms, we don't need multiple hair dryers and umpteen bottles of shampoo. With the weight limits on baggage, we'll need the extra space in our suitcases for souvenirs!

— Haley Christensen
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Shopping
368263

When you're shopping for alcohol on any Caribbean island, ask if there's a Kmart nearby. Often the dis- counter is a short distance from the docks where the cruise ships tie up and has an extensive selection at prices lower than the liquor stores on the main drag. While you're there, pick up that extra roll of film or the sunscreen you forgot.

— Andrea Mansfield
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Shopping
359274

Anyone tired of the same boring postcards that are found at every roadside tourist trap should try shopping for vintage postcards at an antiques shop. They're a great addition to any photo album, as they often show what the local attractions looked like prior to development.

— Christian Galloway
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Technology
392283

When my husband and I travel with our children, our luggage is weighed down by diapers, formula, and other necessities. To save space and hassle, we now ship ahead most of those items to our hotel. We also came across a Web site called babiestravellite.com, where we can order supplies and have them shipped anywhere in the world.

— Mina Camera
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Air Travel
364246

If you've accumulated more souvenirs on your trip than you can carry, drive your rental car up to curbside check-in, then return the vehicle and come back on the shuttle bus with only your carry-on. This only works if there's no check-in line, but can save dragging your luggage onto the shuttle bus, across parking lots, etc.

— Robyn Volkening
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Planning
369243

Know your PINs! My husband and I left home with very little cash on us, and instead of stopping to get money at the airport, my husband--ever the procrastinator--decided to wait until we got to Cancún to use his ATM card. Guess what? It didn't work in any of the machines. And although he had several credit cards for cash advances, he didn't know the PINs off the top of his head. We charged everything we could during our stay, but most of the markets don't take credit cards. Needless to say, I didn't come home with a lot of souvenirs.

— CaSandra Knight
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Planning
376265

If you're traveling overseas, be sure to check the fine print concerning passports (go online or call the country's embassy). I had three months before my passport expired and found out at the last minute that I needed six months' leeway to enter Tahiti. Luckily, I was able to get a new passport just in time for my vacation.

— Jean Schwinn
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Road Trips
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I take each of my grandchildren on a road trip the summer each turns twelve. The trips range in length from two weeks to a month and require careful packing. I've learned to put our clothes and any snack items we'll need in large plastic bins that fit in the back of my minivan. We each bring a small bag and pack it every evening with items we'll need for that night and the next day: no lugging heavy suitcases in and out of motels or hotels.

— Patsy Maddox
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Packing
391276

When carrying around my small umbrella, I put it in a Ziploc bag. After using it, I can store the umbrella, back inside the Ziploc, in my shoulder bag without getting everything else soaked.

— Sandy Sussman
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Safety
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I agree that the anti-seasickness medication for cruises, Bonine, is excellent and effective; but there is a budget way to buy it. The primary ingredient in Bonine is meclizine (25 mg). While a package of eight Bonine tablets costs just over $4 at a drugstore, you can buy a bottle of 100 generic meclizine (25 mg) for about the same price. This is an over-the-counter (no prescription needed) item, but you usually have to ask for it at the pharmacy counter.

— Lila Held
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Air Travel
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For long overnight flights, pack a dry washcloth in a Ziploc bag in your carry-on. Before landing, ask the flight attendant for a cup of hot (not boiling) water. Carefully pour the water into the Ziploc bag and then wipe your face and hands with the steaming cloth. It's like a portable sauna!

— Henrietta Scarlett Ober
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Packing
361247

Water-bottle holsters are good for more than holding water. I own several Water Bottle Totes by Outdoor Research (orgear.com). With their Velcro-like straps, I can fasten them anywher--to my belt, camera strap, fanny pack, purse, or airplane seat. I've used them at various times to carry my camera, binoculars, snacks, umbrella, battery-powered fan, flashlight, sunglasses, a windbreaker, and a rain poncho.

— Patricia S Beagle
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Photography
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Create your own postcards by writing on the back of photographs that you've taken and developed while still on your trip.

— Connie Van Brocklin
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Road Trips
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For our road trip through the English countryside, I printed out a detailed map for every location we wanted to visit from multimap.com. I labeled each map with the day we planned on using it and wrote down the interesting sites and places to eat along the way. I kept them all in a folder and added brochures from the places we saw. It was a great souvenir upon returning home.

— Karen Holt
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Family Travel
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Create an ID page for each of your children before you leave on a trip. In addition to vacation contact information (hotel name and phone number), include the child's name, a current photo, home address, phone, date of birth, Social Security number, passport number, hair color, eye color, height, any identifying marks, blood type, allergies, medications, doctor and insurance phone numbers and ID numbers, immunization schedule, and fingerprints (these don't change, so investing the time to have a set made is worth it). If the unspeakable happens, the ability to hand over instant, concise information to authorities may prove invaluable. Update it before every trip.

— Robin Flannery
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Loyalty Programs
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Using your frequent-flier miles, you might be able to visit two cities on one ticket. For example, my wife and I always trade in our Delta miles when we visit our daughters in Dallas and San Francisco. Because we have to fly through Dallas to get to San Francisco on Delta, we can stop over in Dallas for as long as we want before continuing on to San Francisco—and we use only one frequent-flier ticket each.

— Harry Bishop
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Hotels
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Finding the bathroom in the middle of the night in a strange hotel room or cruise-ship cabin can be a challenge. Leaving the bathroom light on seems wasteful and makes the room too bright for sleeping. My husband and I used to travel with a night-light, but we couldn't always find a convenient place to plug it in. We've recently discovered a better solution: plastic light sticks. They come in several glow-in-the- dark colors and are activated by bending the tube into a circle and connecting the ends. Each evening, we hook one of the loops over the bathroom-door handle, where it provides a gentle glow through the night.

— Carol Attar
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Photography
373272

Put an address label on your one-time-use camera. At a Final Four game in Indianapolis, we exchanged identical Kodak Fun Savers with another traveler so that we could take souvenir photos of each other with our respective cameras. But afterward, we couldn't tell whose camera was whose. Luckily, I remembered how many exposures remained on mine, so we got ours back. Next time, I'll just label it.

— Matthew Richard
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Shopping
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It helps to have a calculator if you plan to do a lot of shopping in foreign markets. When you find something you like, hand the seller the calculator and ask him to enter his best price. It's easy to convert the response into dollars so you know what you're spending. If necessary, the calculator can be used to haggle, especially if you don't speak the language.

— Becky Sapp
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Car Rentals
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Don't rush off the car-rental lot. Before driving away--especially in foreign countries where the controls might be unfamiliar-test the headlights and brakes, and look for the extra tire and changing tools. I once had a rental with malfunctioning brakes in Mexico and caused a minor accident--one that could certainly have been avoided had I checked them properly before leaving the lot.

— Doreen Stelton
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Packing
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During a visit to Mexico City, I was sitting in a plaza near a fountain, watching the locals stroll around in their Sunday best. Nearby, an older gentleman was playing a concertina; his music perfectly framed the scene. I took lots of pictures, but I didn't have a way to capture that music. Now I pack a small tape recorder along with my camera.

— Kieran Sala
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Shopping
383287

A company called Orikaso makes brightly colored polypropylene sheets that can be folded--kind of like origami--to form a dish, bowl, or cup. The sheets are lightweight and reusable, and you simply flatten them when you're finished. We found ours at a sporting goods store, but you can also buy them online. Check orikaso.com for retailers.

— Susan Day
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Hotels
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Don't assume a single room costs less than a double one. I booked a hotel in Spain online and noticed that rates were the same whether I booked a single or a double, but the single was much smaller and its bathroom had only a small shower stall and no tub.

— Don Carne
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Planning
385270

When we visit places we think we might return to, we collect copies of free tourist magazines. At home, we write the address of each magazine on a postcard. Six to eight weeks before our return visit, we send out the cards asking for a current copy. The magazines are full of useful information.

— F. Richard Leininger
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Solo Travel
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If you're traveling solo and want some company for dinner, try the sushi bar at a Japanese restaurant. It's a great place to meet locals. Plus, you'll receive extra attention and special recommendations from the chef.

— Marcie Rubenstein
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Packing
395273

Instead of packing a complete shaving kit, my husband fills his wide-mouth Nalgene water bottle with items such as razors, spare contact lenses, eyeglasses, toothbrush, and so on. This turned out to be particularly useful on our trip to Costa Rica, where we also took the bottle on our day hikes to volcanoes and the jungle.

— Terry Clemson
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Packing
377268

I travel with a mailing tube in my suitcase because I often buy paintings, drawings, and maps. My souvenirs always arrive home safe and sound. I just leave the mailing tube in my suitcase until the next trip.

— Abbie-Stuart Fox

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