EAT LIKE A LOCAL

San Francisco

All you need is $15 and this list

To our minds, San Francisco is one of the three top foodie cities in the US (along with New York and New Orleans). We've all heard about California cuisine, and the star chefs that are shaping the dining scene in the City by the Bay. But what about cheap food? Can one get good, interesting grub at an affordable price?

Our expert gives a resounding "yes" to that question and reveals her picks for the best affordable food in town.

The top ten

Red's Java House Pier 30-32, Embarcadero at Bryant St., 415/777-5626, Closed for dinner unless there's an evening Giants game at nearby SBC Park

The pickup trucks in the lot and the crusty old guys in coveralls are your first signs that Red's is no temple to fancy-schmancy California cuisine. Working-class joes in Harley-Davidson jackets fill most of the tables, though suits slumming it also visit this little shack in the shadow of the Bay Bridge. Hot dogs, burgers, chili, fries, and Budweiser are the orders of choice--unless you show up before 11 a.m. (3 p.m. on weekends), when a smattering of breakfast items are served. And since a double cheeseburger, fries, and a beer cost only $6.25, Red's qualifies as one of the best burger bargains in the city, with or without the million-dollar view.

Chez Maman 1453 18th St., between Connecticut and Missouri Sts., 415/824-7166

Diners sit shoulder to shoulder at the counter of this lilliputian Potrero Hill bistro, where the chefs cheerfully toss salads, grill lamb sausages, and cook crepes just inches away. The stools are so close to the grill, in fact, that you won't know whether it's the heat of the fire or the Gallic charm of the chatty proprietor that's causing the warm glow. The small menu is solidly French: the goat cheese salad ($8), croque monsieur ($9), and mussels marinière ($12) would be right at home in a Parisian bistro. So would the French-speaking regulars, who gab with the staff while downing rocket-fuel espresso.

El Tonayense Harrison St. between 19th and 20th Sts., Harrison St. at 22nd St. and Shotwell St. between 16th and 17th Sts

Locals in the know stand on the sidewalk or perch on a concrete ledge next to a chain-link fence to eat some of the best (and most authentically Mexican) tacos in town, served from shiny silver trucks parked on semi-industrial blocks in the Mission. Since there's no menu--just a list of available meats, such as carne asada (grilled steak) and carnitas (braised pork)--it's useful to know that you can get these fillings in a taco, burrito, or torta (sandwich). Most passionate fans of El Tonayense are so devoted to the tacos--corn tortillas folded around juicy meat, hot or mild salsa, and a scattering of chopped onions and cilantro--that they've never even sampled the other dishes. Those with an average appetite could probably handle three tacos, but we wouldn't blame anyone for trying to eat just one more.

It's Tops Coffee Shop 1801 Market St., between Valencia and Guerrero Sts., 415/431-6395

Shortly after this tiny, '50s-style diner in the Lower Haight opens at 8 a.m., haggard partygoers outnumber early risers by about two to one. They continue their flirtation with unhealthy living with a menu that contains, in addition to standard diner fare--buttermilk pancakes ($4.50), Denver omelettes ($7.75)--an entire section devoted to deep-fried sides such as beer-battered mushrooms ($3.95). Each orange-vinyl booth is equipped with a jukebox, but the stools at the counter provide you with the added entertainment of listening to the waitstaff describe their latest tattoos.

Nirvana 544 Castro St., between 18th and 19th Sts., 415/861-2226

One hopes that the real nirvana isn't as loud as this Castro District restaurant, where the predominantly gay clientele flirt to the steady pulse of techno music. Dim lights and walls the color of blood oranges set a seductive scene, but the heated garden patio is the last word in romance. Big bowls of noodles (ramen, soba, or linguine), topped with ingredients such as pan-seared Thai-style chicken ($7.75), salmon chunks ($9.50), or sautéed spinach and tomatoes ($6.75), are a bargain; the same can't be said about the froufrou cocktails ($7-$8.50). Concoctions like Purple Rain--made with vanilla-flavor Stoli, pomegranate juice, and lemon juice--nevertheless disappear lickety-split at the bar, where revelers sometimes stand waiting two deep.

Emmy's Spaghetti Shack 18 Virginia St., at Mission St., 415/206-2086

At the edge of the Mission, this dimly lit room decorated with old-fashioned aprons strung across a clothesline might seem an unlikely setting for San Francisco hipsters to wine and dine their dates. But, somehow, the juxtaposition of the faux corrugated tin roof, colorful artwork by local artists, and a DJ spinning groovy down-tempo music (Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays) works. Maybe the crowd is in a good mood because of the glasses of red wine on almost every table, but the vibe at Emmy's is unfailingly friendly. Enormous plates of spaghetti ($6, with meatballs $8.50) are by far the best deals. Consider sharing one with your honey, along with an appetizer like the winter-greens salad with beets and goat cheese ($8). Desserts, most around $7, are more expensive than you'd expect.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel soap dishes--the colorful plastic ones that have hinged lids--stop small, fragile items from getting damaged or lost in your bags. I can easily label and use them again and again and again.

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Many tourist information offices provide discounted same-day booking services for local lodgings. My husband and I discovered this when we accidentally left a midweek gap in our travel plans between my husband's conference hotel and our B&B in Charleston. Instead of adding another night at either location, we stayed at one of the more elegant inns (normally over $200) for $70, courtesy of the Charleston Convention and Visitors Bureau.

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For overnight flights, pack a few Oral B Brush-Ups in your carry-on. Before the plane lands, you can "brush" your teeth, leaving you refreshed and ready for the day!

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When I travel with friends, we decide ahead of time who's going to bring what. If we're sharing a suite or have adjoining rooms, we don't need multiple hair dryers and umpteen bottles of shampoo. With the weight limits on baggage, we'll need the extra space in our suitcases for souvenirs!

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Read the fine print on your rail pass. You can often use it to save money on other modes of public transportation. With a Scandinavian rail pass, for example, you'll pay less to ride the ferries. In Switzerland, a rail pass can get you free bus rides, as well as complimentary entrance to museums and discounts on funiculars and hotel accommodations.

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I always take a digital picture of the gas gauge to prove that I returned the rental car with a full tank. Some agencies try to charge for a minimal amount of gas when they "top off" the tank (which you're not supposed to do anyway). I've used these digital photographs to get refunds for gas charges that appeared on my credit-card bill after the fact.

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Grab-rails and nonskid surfaces aren't common in European bathtubs and showers. I pack a few decorative rubber pads that have non-adhesive suction cups, so I can use them when needed to prevent a slip or fall, and then I take them with me to the next hotel.

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I travel with a mailing tube in my suitcase because I often buy paintings, drawings, and maps. My souvenirs always arrive home safe and sound. I just leave the mailing tube in my suitcase until the next trip.

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If you plan to visit a theme park, always bring a few sandwich-size Ziploc bags. They'll protect your cell phone and wallet when you're riding on flumes and other water attractions.

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Though they're often the best deals around, don't assume that packaged vacations always offer the biggest bang for your buck. My wife and I were ready to book an air/hotel package to Maui when we noticed a sale on Aloha Airlines ($280 round trip from Oakland). I added up the total cost of the trip if purchased separately and saved $400 over comparable packages from various tour operators. We used the extra money to stay in a nicer hotel and to rent a convertible!

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Place a fabric softener sheet in your suitcase when packing. It'll absorb odors and dampness and keep clothing smelling fresh. It's most beneficial in warm, humid climates and while at sea. I found this quite useful during my twenty-three years in the U.S.Navy.

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When overseas, I carry a "cheat sheet" that includes exchange rates and metric conversions. Currency conversions are available at oanda.com.

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If you don't have enough frequent-flier miles to get to Europe, use your miles to reach a major airport in the United States and then pay for the overseas flight from there. For a trip to Ireland, my husband and I used Delta SkyMiles to get from Cincinnati to New York's JFK airport and from there took Aer Lingus to Ireland. The Aer Lingus internet special was $267 per person. A Delta flight from Cincinnati to Ireland was $1,150 for two. We saved more than $600.

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Avoid spills in your Dopp kit. Cut up plastic grocery bags into little squares and place them under the tops of toiletries to prevent leaks. Discard the squares upon arrival, but bring extras for the trip back.

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Pick just two colors to mix and match throughout your trip. You'll cut down on luggage, not least because you won't have to bring a bunch of shoes to match a wide assortment of colors.

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The middle seat isn't always awful. On a recent trip overseas, I called too late to confirm an aisle or window seat. After explaining the plane's AB-CDEFG-HI configuration, the customer service agent urged me to take the very middle seat, E, because D and F have less foot room. (In some rows, there are metal boxes underneath the seats in front of you that house wiring for onboard electronics.) I went along with her advice somewhat skeptically, but I ended up with plenty of room. The people on either side of me weren't so lucky.

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Put an address label on your one-time-use camera. At a Final Four game in Indianapolis, we exchanged identical Kodak Fun Savers with another traveler so that we could take souvenir photos of each other with our respective cameras. But afterward, we couldn't tell whose camera was whose. Luckily, I remembered how many exposures remained on mine, so we got ours back. Next time, I'll just label it.

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Most cruise lines offer certain drinks for free--juice, lemonade, iced tea, coffee, milk, tea-but you'll have to pay for soda. If you're a caffeine addict, pack a bottle or two. Unlike on a plane, you won't have to worry about paying for the added weight.

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The couple of hangers provided on cruise ships aren't enough for weeklong trips. So I save wire hangers from the dry cleaner and slip a few into our suitcases while packing. I then leave them behind for the next passenger.

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Therm-a-Rest's Compressible Pillow is perfect for the plane. It comes in three sizes, packs smaller and expands bigger than any other pillow, and is machine washable. Whenever I pull mine out of my carry-on, I get jealous stares: People always ask where they can get one. REI sells the pillows for $18 to $25, depending on the size (rei.com).

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Before you go to sleep, check to see if a previous hotel guest left the alarm clock on. I've been awakened before 7 a.m. twice in the last couple of months by alarms I did not set. (Make sure the clock shows the right time, too!)

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In areas where the majority of people don't speak English, head to an Internet café. In our experience, they're full of friendly young people anxious to practice their English.

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— Carol Attar
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When booking a rental car online, click on "special offers" or "hot deals" to find the company's current promotional codes. Price your reservation using each code. Also, keep in mind that rates fluctuate according to seasons and slow periods. I managed to save more than $170 on a ten-day rental in Orlando, Fla.,by changing my reservation dates twice and by using different codes.

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We rented a car last summer to tour northern Italy. Initially, we contacted Europcar (europcar.com) and got a quote of more than $500. We then clicked on a rental-car link from Best Fares (bestfares.com) and received an offer that knocked off about $50. When we mentioned to Europcar that we'd seen lower offers on the Web, they told us that if we sent them the URL and they could verify the offer, they'd match it. We eventually found a car that was an additional $100 cheaper from a British company. Europcar-which offered better service for our itinerary-accepted that lower price, saving us $150.

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When I travel for business, I usually tack on a few extra days to do something active like hike in a nearby national park. I find that by taking two small suitcases instead of a single large one, I stay better organized and less burdened. I keep my business clothes, papers, and laptop in one bag and hiking clothes and gear in another. I leave the suitcase I'm not using at the time in the rental car and easily carry the lightweight case with the equipment and clothes I need into my hotel.

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