ROAD TRIPS

Santa Fe and Taos

A roadtrip through Georgia O'Keefe country

The beauty of northern New Mexico's high deserts and mountains enchanted artist Georgia O'Keeffe when she first visited Santa Fe and Taos, and she made this majestic landscape her home-and the subject of many of her paintings-for almost the last four decades of her life. Ah, Georgia, I thought repeatedly as I recently toured what fans like me now call "O'Keeffe Country," if only I could sta y on as you did. Futile dream that one, but at least I got to live it for a few days. And you can, too. Although Santa Fe and Taos rank today as highly sophisticated arts-oriented communities, they prove surprisingly easy on the wallet. Except for the celebrated stars, many painters, sculptors, and other artists tend to struggle on modest incomes, I've been told. As a result, visitors can find quality lodging and dining at budget rates. For all its ritzy appeal, New Mexico counts as one of America's cheaper vacation places.

Figure on paying about $45 to $60 a night in summer to rent a double in a name-brand motel and under $10 per person for a heaping dinner plate of tacos, enchiladas, and other Mexican dishes savored in the Southwest. Much of the art-as intriguing as it is fun-can be viewed for free in dozens of galleries in both towns. On a recent Friday night in Santa Fe, my wife and I went gallery hopping, sipping complimentary champagne or ginger ale and nibbling hors d 'oeuvres at a series of public art-show debuts. For an hour or two we felt like locals, chatting with the artists and gallery owners.

A resident of New York in her younger years, O'Keeffe learned to drive when she moved to New Mexico, turning her car into a mobile studio. To aid you in seeing the settings she captured on canvas-pink rock cliffs, adobe churches, the Ghost Ranch-what follows here is a relaxed, four-day, 475-mile driving tour that focuses both on O'Keeffe Country's vibrant cultural wealth and the scenic grandeur that captivated her. This is a trip for art lovers in a rugged land that also draws lots of hardy backpackers, mountain bikers, and white-water enthusiasts.

In O'Keeffe's footsteps, you will have a chance to watch expert pottery makers at work on Pueblo Indian reservations scattered along the famed Rio Grande River. At Bandelier National Monument, ascend a lofty Pueblo-style ladder into the cave dwelling of the ancient Anasazi, predecessors of the Puebl o people. In the village of Abiquiu, join an escorted tour of O'Keeffe's home, studio, and garden, kept as they were at her death at age 98 in 1986. In Santa Fe, walk half-mile-long Canyon Road, perhaps America's densest concentration of art galleries. Giant outdoor sculptures-the odd, whimsical, and realistic-line the way. (I've been amazed by a sculpture garden filled with massive metal bugs.) In Taos, try your luck at the slot machines at Taos Mountain Casino, operated by the Taos Pueblo. The nickel bandits can't do much damage to your wallet.

In my mind (and surely O'Keeffe's), northern New Mexico's summer climate-sunny, dry, and mild-is almost reason enough to go, or to settle in as she did. When you're calculating costs, this bonus treat is free.

Getting started

On the Internet, both Thrifty (800/847-4389, thrifty.com) and Alamo (800/327-9633, alamo.com) quote the same midsummer rate: $167 a week for a compact car with unlimited miles. Budget (800/527-0700, budget.com) comes in at just a couple of bucks higher.

June lodging rates tend to be slightly cheaper than rates in July and August. Last-minute bookings shouldn't be a problem, except during special events such as the annual Santa Fe Indian Market in late August. Most budget properties are a five- to ten-minute drive from the historic district. But in little Taos, parking is free on side streets. In Santa Fe, municipal lots charge $1.20 an hour; maximum, $6 a day.

Museum and pueblo entrance fees can mount up. Most charge $5 to $10 per adult, though some are less. The heftiest fee ($22) is for a tour of O'Keeffe's home in Abiquiu.

Day one: On the road

Skilled pottery makers, the Acomas encourage outsiders to visit Sky City, where many market their craft. But you can enter only in small, hour-long group tours (505/552-6604; $10 adults, $6 children). Once, only guarded secret trails ascended the heights; today, a paved road from the visitors center climbs in steep curves, and outsiders are escorted up in a small bus. But at tour's end, the sure-footed are invited to descend one of the old paths. Acoma pottery is noted for its extreme thinness and for the intricate geometric designs painted in black, red, and shades of orange. If the prices are too hefty, indulge instead in a big pumpkin cookie homemade by a villager.

The stop at Acoma introduces you to one of the native peoples of New Mexico. Now double back through Albuquerque to Santa Fe to meet the cultures that moved in on them. First came the Spanish, who founded Santa Fe in 1607 (13 years before the Pilgrims stepped onto Plymouth Rock). Mexico wrested the trading post from Spain in 1821, and the United States snapped it up in the Mexican-American War of 1846. The cultural mix is credited with sparking the city's artistic vitality.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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I was heading to the hotel ice machine when I noticed that our ice bucket was looking very tired and missing its disposable plastic liner. My solution: the shower cap that we never use anyway. In fact, it actually worked better than the liner bag because the elastic band held it in place around the top of the bucket.

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When looking for the lowest airfare, I've found that in some cases the best rates pop up when searching for one traveler instead of two. Recently, I wanted to buy one-way tickets from New York to Orlando for two people and came up with $87 per person. But when I selected one traveler, the fare dropped to $72.

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I always pack several tea lights, a small vial of essential oils, and matches. Tea lights, when placed in a water glass for extra safety, banish stale or unpleasant smells in hotel rooms. The essential oils work wonders when a drop is placed on a warm lightbulb.

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My husband cut an old contact lens case in two and uses the halves to carry his medication when we're traveling. He prefers them to regular pillboxes because lens cases are watertight and compact enough to carry inside a shirt pocket.

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Make a master list of jobs to do around the house before you leave (hold the mail, water the plants, take out the garbage). Keep the list on your computer, print it out, then check off each job as it gets done. You'll be able to go without worrying that you forgot to stop the newspaper.

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Tell me I'm not alone: Almost every time I park my car at the airport, I have trouble finding it when I return. (I even reported my car stolen once after searching for hours, only to discover I was in the wrong lot!) I now use my cell phone to leave myself a message as to where I've parked my car.

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Sign up for guest programs at every hotel chain that offers one, even if you haven't stayed at that hotel before or think you may not travel enough to reap benefits from multiple stays. Some programs send coupons for discounted rooms or complimentary room upgrades just for being a member. After signing up for the Omni Hotels Select Guest program, I received a coupon that I was able to redeem for a room in Chicago for $80 per night.

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When I'm on a cruise with my wife's family and we're in a foreign city for the day, I get off the boat as soon as we dock and hail a taxi. I ask the driver to call his dispatcher and find me a van with an English-speaking driver. Then I negotiate an hourly rate and a pickup time at the dock. The family tours together for a few hours, and then each couple either gets dropped off where they want to spend extra time or returns to the boat (this is great for my elderly in-laws). We get a tailor-made city tour for a much cheaper rate than if we had booked through the cruise line.

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If you're divorced and plan to travel out of the country with your children, check the legal requirements in advance. When I tried to take my kids to Cancun, I learned too late that Mexico requires a notarized letter of consent signed by both parents for minors traveling alone or with one parent or guardian. If the parents are divorced, a copy of the parental custody agreement is allowed instead. The airlines enforce this rule before you get on the plane.

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Carry a Polaroid camera when traveling to developing countries. In Cambodia, several village children gathered around us, posed enthusiastically for pictures, and were fascinated by their images in our digital camera. We wanted to send them the pictures, but they were unable to tell us their address. Polaroids would have solved the problem!

— Cynda Perun
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— Melissa Coplak
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If you can't sleep due to the heat in your non-air-conditioned hotel room, take a cold bottle of water and place it on your pillow, in the crook of your neck. It will cool your whole body down.

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If you're packing a lunch to eat later in the day, freeze a 16-ounce water bottle and pack it, along with yogurt, cottage cheese, a ham sandwich, or whatever in a light- weight, insulated bag. Your snacks will remain cold, and you can drink the water.

— Jackie McGraw
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On a Northwest flight from Wichita to Cleveland, a piece of my luggage was delivered more than a day after I arrived. In the meantime, I had to buy some replacement items. Save your receipts! I turned in the receipts when I checked in for the return flight, and the ticket agent issued me a $50 check.(Northwest allows up to $50 in interim expenses for the first 24 hours, and $25 for each day afterward, with a maximum reimbursement of $150.)

— Phil Richard
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Note the expiration dates of any debit or credit cards you plan on using while you're away. In Budapest, I tried to withdraw cash with my ATM card, only to find that it had expired just days before.

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Try getting a discount on your hotel room by offering to pay in cash. A hotel reservationist suggested this approach when I phoned to reserve at a hotel in London. I asked if the hotel could grant a discount based on my AARP or AAA membership, as many hotels do in the United States. Her response was that the only discount she was able to offer was 10 percent if I paid in cash.

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Quotetravelinsurance.com gives you comparable details on more than one hundred travel-insurance plans, enabling you to make the best buy. It relies on ratings from insurance industry overseers such as A.M. Best and state insurance commissioners before allowing an insurance company into its extensive lineup.

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Avoid spills in your Dopp kit. Cut up plastic grocery bags into little squares and place them under the tops of toiletries to prevent leaks. Discard the squares upon arrival, but bring extras for the trip back.

— Roland Zuniga
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Love researching your destination online, but don't know how to organize all those printouts, maps, guidebooks, and tips? I get a 5 x 7" spiral notebook (Mead makes one with a sturdy cover and a pocket insert), a set of index tabs, and some glue. Divide the notebook into sections with the tabs (sights, maps, currency converter, restaurants, etc.). Photocopy—in reduction mode—all the info you want to bring, and glue it into the appropriate section. I leave plenty of pages for my journals. This creates an all-in-one personal guide that you can read again years after your trip!

— Michele Graves
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— Susan Day
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Pack a glue stick for journaling. Rather than bringing home an envelope full of ticket stubs and mementos, you can glue them into your journal as you're traveling. You'll have a better chance of remembering what the ticket was for if you label it right away.

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Before traveling by taxi in foreign (or even domestic) locations, ask a local (perhaps stopping in shops to question the sales staff) what the approximate taxi fare would be to a particular location. They've always been pleased to help me. In this manner, I can avoid paying the inflated tourist rates!

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Online check-in isn't just for airlines. After reserving an Alamo car over the Internet, I was offered online check-in just by entering my credit card number and driver's license information for approval. At the airport, following Alamo's instructions, I informed the shuttle-bus driver that I had checked in online and reserved an economy car. I was dropped off in the lot and told to pick whichever car I wanted. I drove it to the exit, where my credit card and driver's license were verified on the computer, and I was done.

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No longer do the many key chains I get as advertising languish in bureau drawers. I attach one or two at the ends of my luggage zippers. They make it easier to work the zippers and help me identify my luggage on airport carousels.

— Marie J. Kilker
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About a month before leaving on vacation, I start clipping the crossword puzzles from the daily newspaper and pasting them into a blank notebook. The puzzles keep me occupied during my trip. The newspaper's crosswords are so much more interesting than the generic books of them you can purchase at the airport.

— Kathie Meyer
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I use an inexpensive, thumb-size USB flash drive to store medical and insurance contacts, confirmation codes, credit card numbers, addresses, and phone numbers. It fits in a secure zip pocket in my travel purse. If I don't have my laptop, I can insert the flash drive in most hotel or Internet café computers. Some USB flash drives password-protect your data, or you can download a free encryption program.

— Linda Steven
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Dry-cleaning bags stop clothes from wrinkling. Slide each garment into its own bag (leave the hanger at home) and place them flat on your bed, one on top of another. Then carefully fold the entire stack to fit it in your suitcase. Once you get to your hotel, hang everything up as soon as you can. You'll never unpack a suitcase of wrinkled clothes again.

— Claudette Christman

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