Bewitching Barbados

It may be tee-time in British Barbados for honeymooning Tiger Woods, but the hurricane-free isle is the Caribbean's hole in one

There are plenty of reasons to set your sights on Barbados, whose West Indian and British influences give the island a unique culture all its own. In sharp contrast to other resort-laden Caribbean islands, a good chunk of Barbados is still carpeted with sugar cane crops, dotted with the occasional weathered windmill, as well as English churches whose first stones were laid well over three centuries ago.

Vacations there can be as peaceful or as active as you like. Chill out on the pink-and-white sand of the Southern Caribbean with a stiff rum punch in hand, or slap on the snorkeling gear and swim with the green turtles, whose shells can measure up to four feet in diameter. Take your pick.

Tiger Woods may have just tied the knot there to Swedish model Elin Nordegren, and British Prime Minister Tony Blair has already recharged his political batteries twice this year on Barbados, but the island is accessible to those who live outside the spotlight as well. The Barbados Tourism Authority "Best of Barbados" program, for example, helps vacationers by giving them up to $600 (per couple) in discounts on flights, accommodations, dining, car rentals, and tours galore. (Available through Nov. 30.) Despite the fact that Barbados, which sits far outside the hurricane belt, has not had a serious storm sweep across its shores in 50 years, it still suffers by association and muddles along with the rest of the Caribbean in proclaiming early fall as its "low season," which means prices right now are at their best.

From the Harrison Caves to the top-heavy boulders that appear on Bathsheba Beach like giant fantastical spores, Barbados' natural beauty is genuinely astounding, enhanced by the fact that it's easy to be alone there, sitting on the sands and staring at a sunset--that is until you stumble upon a fisherman, a couple of smooching teen-agers, or elderly Bajans out for a walk. In democratic fashion, all of Barbados' beaches are public, and open to tourists and locals alike. The island's egalitarian approach to life also extends to education: Barbados has the third highest literacy rate in the world. Its rigorous schooling shows in the form of low crime, good jobs, and a generally high quality of life.

Barbados' other riches are perhaps more tangible, and owed in large part to Mother Nature. The trade winds blow directly south from Boston to Bridgetown, the island's capital city to form a triangle with London in what was the most active and profitable shipping route of the day. For better or worse, the brisk sugar business brought slaves, produced plantations, and put Barbados on history's map. Underscoring the unique ties between the island and the US is the recently discovered George Washington House in what was the fortified Garrison district--an area that gets surprisingly little attention from tourists. The house where the first president of the United States lived for a year in 1751 when he was 19 is presently being restored with TLC by the Barbados National Trust, and will soon make for one of the most compelling sights on the island.

Accommodations, and the lay of the island

Marriott lovers, Hyatt fans, and Radisson regulars be forewarned; Barbados is blessedly free of chain hotels and mega-resorts. In fact, no building can be higher than a royal palm, or three to four stories. The result of this centuries-old law is a diverse array of privately owned properties, many of them invitingly intimate in size. Barbados has 3,000+ beds, and each side of the island its own distinct reputation, fostered in part by the character of the beaches, and in part by who lives, works, and plays there.

The South Coast, which encompasses the parish of Christ Church, is experiencing a renaissance of sorts, and is a good choice for younger travelers and those on a budget. The atmosphere is lively, mainly due to the tangle of small resorts, beach condos, and comparatively cheap places to eat, with the St. Lawrence Gap being the center of attention when it comes to nightlife. This part of the island, just east and south of Bridgetown, has a good many of guesthouses, a number of which come ready with kitchens for make-it-yourself meals. Here are a few budget lodging options worthy of consideration:

Shells Guesthouse (Worthing)
Friendly spot with eight rooms (and shared baths). A relaxing place where you can afford to chill out for a while. Rooms $25-50/night.

Cleverdale Guesthouse (Worthing)
German-owned property with a communal flair and generous outdoor terrace. Rooms $25-50/night.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Know your PINs! My husband and I left home with very little cash on us, and instead of stopping to get money at the airport, my husband--ever the procrastinator--decided to wait until we got to Cancún to use his ATM card. Guess what? It didn't work in any of the machines. And although he had several credit cards for cash advances, he didn't know the PINs off the top of his head. We charged everything we could during our stay, but most of the markets don't take credit cards. Needless to say, I didn't come home with a lot of souvenirs.

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Get the right maps. For road trips on the Continent, European maps are much more helpful when it comes to reading road signs. They'll say Napoli instead of Naples, Firenze rather than Florence. I could spend all day waiting for a road sign for Munich and miss the exit for Munchen.

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I always pack several tea lights, a small vial of essential oils, and matches. Tea lights, when placed in a water glass for extra safety, banish stale or unpleasant smells in hotel rooms. The essential oils work wonders when a drop is placed on a warm lightbulb.

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Pack a travel-size shampoo container refilled with detergent and a one-gallon Ziploc bag for when you need to wash hosiery, bras, and other delicate undergarments. Put a few drops of detergent into the bag and fill it part way with water. Place the garment in the bag, close it up, and shake it around for a few minutes. Instant washing machine! For larger pieces of clothing, I've used the plastic laundry bags supplied at most hotels. Just hold on to the open end tightly.

— Erika Kumada
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A company called Orikaso makes brightly colored polypropylene sheets that can be folded--kind of like origami--to form a dish, bowl, or cup. The sheets are lightweight and reusable, and you simply flatten them when you're finished. We found ours at a sporting goods store, but you can also buy them online. Check orikaso.com for retailers.

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Quotetravelinsurance.com gives you comparable details on more than one hundred travel-insurance plans, enabling you to make the best buy. It relies on ratings from insurance industry overseers such as A.M. Best and state insurance commissioners before allowing an insurance company into its extensive lineup.

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Before leaving on a trip, I print the names and addresses of my friends and family onto clear mailing labels. (All standard word-processing programs have preset templates for creating address labels.) Then, I take the address-label sheets with me on vacation. Since the addresses are already saved in my computer and the mailing labels are adhesive, addressing postcards has become really easy.

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If the zipper on your luggage or your clothing is giving you any trouble, rubbing some lip balm or candle wax onto the teeth should loosen it.

— Marko Anderson
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Cold-weather traveling means turning up the thermostat in your hotel room, and along with the artificially warmed air come dry skin and static electricity. Instead of turning on the heat, fill the bathtub with very hot water and leave the bathroom door open. In about an hour, your entire room will be warm and humidified.

— Susan Mutty
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I live in coastal Florida, where the electricity sometimes goes out during violent storms. Before a trip, I place a few ice cubes in a plastic bag and put the bag in the freezer. If the ice has melted and refrozen by the time I get home, I'll know we've had a power outage and that any food left in the refrigerator may be unsafe to consume.

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I find that hotel bathrooms rarely have enough hangers and hooks for clothes and wet towels, so I always bring a few snap-lock suction hooks. (They function better than regular suction hooks because they're more secure and are therefore able to hold heavier items.) It's always nice to have a place to hang a bathrobe.

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If you're packing a lunch to eat later in the day, freeze a 16-ounce water bottle and pack it, along with yogurt, cottage cheese, a ham sandwich, or whatever in a light- weight, insulated bag. Your snacks will remain cold, and you can drink the water.

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When I travel with friends, we decide ahead of time who's going to bring what. If we're sharing a suite or have adjoining rooms, we don't need multiple hair dryers and umpteen bottles of shampoo. With the weight limits on baggage, we'll need the extra space in our suitcases for souvenirs!

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I used to lug around a clothes steamer and adapter to stay wrinkle-free while on the road, but I've since opted for something more low-tech. I now travel with a Platypus collapsible bottle and a spray bottle head. After checking into my hotel, I immediately hang my clothes and give them a spritz with water from the spray bottle. After several hours, the wrinkles fall out, and the clothing is dry and ready to wear.

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The couple of hangers provided on cruise ships aren't enough for weeklong trips. So I save wire hangers from the dry cleaner and slip a few into our suitcases while packing. I then leave them behind for the next passenger.

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Don't be afraid to go to a foreign pharmacy. I forgot to pack my prescription medication on a recent trip to France. When my problem acted up, I went to a local pharmacy. (Look for the green cross.) The pharmacist provided my medication without a prescription and at a fraction of what it would have cost in the United States. In fact, one could benefit by stocking up abroad on medications that would normally be acquired at home at a much higher price.

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Before you book a room over the phone, peruse the hotel's site for its "Web only" rate. It's often cheaper than the best quote you'll get by calling. Recently, over the phone, I was quoted a daily rate of $129. I booked the same room online for $89.

— Ying Wang
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I use an inexpensive, thumb-size USB flash drive to store medical and insurance contacts, confirmation codes, credit card numbers, addresses, and phone numbers. It fits in a secure zip pocket in my travel purse. If I don't have my laptop, I can insert the flash drive in most hotel or Internet café computers. Some USB flash drives password-protect your data, or you can download a free encryption program.

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My husband packs Q-tips in a plastic cassette case. It's small and snaps shut, keeping the cotton swabs clean and dry.

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I unpacked a pair of black slacks recently to find them covered with white fuzz. I didn't have a lint brush handy, so I used the luggage sticker from my bag--the gummy side took the lint right off.

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Give your children a coach's whistle in case they get lost; put it on a ribbon so they can wear it around their neck. The piercing sound may be annoying, but you'll definitely find them quicker!

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If you're stranded overnight at an airport and receive a "distress rate" voucher, call the hotel of your choice before blindly following the airline's suggestion. You may find that for that discounted rate (or a few bucks more) you can stay in a hotel with a lot more amenities than the one the airline would put you in. After a long, mishap-filled trip, anyone can appreciate a really good mattress, a top-notch restaurant, and an indoor swimming pool.

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My husband and I create personal cards (like business cards) before we leave home. We put our name, address, phone, and email address on them, as well as a picture of us. How many people have gotten home from a trip, looked at a slip of paper with a name and address, and wondered, Who is this? The picture helps link a name to a face.

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I always take a digital picture of the gas gauge to prove that I returned the rental car with a full tank. Some agencies try to charge for a minimal amount of gas when they "top off" the tank (which you're not supposed to do anyway). I've used these digital photographs to get refunds for gas charges that appeared on my credit-card bill after the fact.

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Try getting a discount on your hotel room by offering to pay in cash. A hotel reservationist suggested this approach when I phoned to reserve at a hotel in London. I asked if the hotel could grant a discount based on my AARP or AAA membership, as many hotels do in the United States. Her response was that the only discount she was able to offer was 10 percent if I paid in cash.

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When buying bottled water, look at the bottle cap to see if the seal is still intact. While visiting the Acropolis on a very hot day this summer, I caught a young boy refilling empty water bottles from a tap and recapping them. He was then selling the bottles to thirsty tourists.

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Many tourist information offices provide discounted same-day booking services for local lodgings. My husband and I discovered this when we accidentally left a midweek gap in our travel plans between my husband's conference hotel and our B&B in Charleston. Instead of adding another night at either location, we stayed at one of the more elegant inns (normally over $200) for $70, courtesy of the Charleston Convention and Visitors Bureau.

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Shout Wipes take up very little space in your purse or backpack and are invaluable for treating stains. While traveling on an airplane, I gave one to a most grateful Italian after he spilled wine on his tie. Our friendship extended through customs, and we're now e-mail pals. Great stuff!

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At a theme park, tie a brightly colored scarf to the handle of your stroller before you enter a ride. When you return, you'll be able to quickly pick out your stroller from a sea of look-alikes.

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Rather than risk losing your department-store credit cards and club-membership cards, you should really leave them behind when you go somewhere you won't need them. Your purse or wallet will be lighter and your worries fewer.

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