The Koreans like to think of this 42-by-24-mile isle (also referred to as Jeju-do) as their very own Hawaii. Well, the palm trees are imported, but they do have several things in common: impressive scenery, volcanic origins, a balmy climet (Jeju's average year-round temperature is 60 degrees), and an ancient, separate language and cultural tradition. Or to compare with Japan, if Seoul is the Tokyo of Korea and imperial Gyeongju the Kyoto, then Jeju's not unlike Okinawa. It's a vacation and honeymoon getaway mostly for Koreans and Japanese, but one that hasn't yet been paved over.

Apart from loads of natural beauty (lovely waterfalls, lava formations including the world's longest lava tube, South Korea's highest peak), there's plenty of evidence of the Mongol-influenced local culture to explore. Burial mounds encircled by walls of lava rocks dot the hillsides. Mysterious harubang-ancient humanoid statues pop up all over the place (originals, copies, and images on everything from buses to harubang-shaped phone booths). Groups of distinctive, white-garbed women divers plumb the coasts for sea critters. Old-style mud-and-thatch houses can still be seen right in the main towns; the rest are in the touristy but still lived-in village of Songup and the Colonial Williamsburg-style Jeju Folk Village (for an entry fee of $3.40 a great visit). And don't forget the botanical, from one of Asia's largest gardens to the Bunjae Artpia ($6), an impressive one-of-a-kind park filled with 2,000 bonsai trees. You can rent a car for$48 a day(the roads are quite good); take a daylong tourist association bus tour for $27; or even book a package from Seoul (a typical two-nighter might cost around $170, including air, hotel, and daily breakfast).

Naturally, there's no shortage of hotels and restaurants, and the exchange rate translates into great bang for your buck even at top-end spots. But budget options are pretty good, too, especially in the capital, Jeju-Shi. The blue-and-white, three-year-old City Hotel is a stylish choice where a double goes for $42.50. Just down the hill, the also newish Hotel Jeju Core offers comparable rooms and amenities (plus a slightly better location closer to downtown) for $33 per double.

Seoul for sale

The quality of Korea's manufacturing and the strength of the U.S. dollar make for some incredible Seoul savings, especially leather and clothing for both sexes. Check out hip Myong-dong and the Nam Dae Mun street markets; for top-quality custom-made duds (how about $225 for an entire men's suit?), look up the better tailors in the Itaewon shopping/entertainment district.

Korea counseling

All calls to South Korea need to be preceded by 011-82, then the area code minus the initial zero. There's a 13-hour time difference from the U.S. East Coast, 10 hours from the West Coast. For general information, contact the Korean National Tourism Organization (with branches in Chicago, Los Angeles, and New York): 800/868-7567; knto.or.kr. In Seoul, 10 Da-dong, Chung-gu; 02/757-0086, fax 02/777-0102.

Getting there

Six airlines have service from the U.S., including nonstops on KAL (800/438-5000; koreanair.com) and Asiana (800/227-4262; asiana.co.kr); others include United and Northwest. Current consolidator and online fares can be as low as $700 from the East Coast, $500 from the West.

Getting around

Intercity ground transport is reasonably priced. The trip from Seoul to Gyeongju, for example, takes about four to four-and-a-half hours, with one-way bus fares starting at $13.40 and train at $24.40. The one-hour flight to the nearest airport, at Busan (an hour's drive from Gyeongju), costs $53 each way. Flying is the only practical way to get to Jeju Island from Seoul; it also takes an hour and costs about $63 one-way. Vouchers for the Korea Rail Pass can be purchased in the U.S, through America Tour Consulting (212/643-0766, ustravel.co.kr); a three-day pass good for travel on any train in the country costs $47.

Lodging leads