BudgetTravel

If gold medals were given to the world's friendliest peoples, Ghanaians would definitely be semifinalists. Travelers to Ghana are met with jovial smiles and waves, even in the big cities. Everywhere you go, young people often sing out the word obruni! (foreigner) in a fun-loving manner; they are obviously happy you came.

Although located in the sometimes politically troubled region of West Africa, Oregon-sized Ghana is a far-removed democratic model of stability and tranquility. Nearly 100 diverse tribes are found within its border, but peace-loving Ghanaians have never experienced any major tribal wars. Moreover, Ghana's Christians and its Muslim minority live side by side in harmony, often within the same tribe.

Best of all, Ghana's prices are joyfully cheap: Simple hotel rooms can cost as little as $5 per person, soft drinks are only $.20, and museum fees are an astonishing $3 or less. At one point, two Ghanaian friends and I recently enjoyed dinner with drinks, and the bill totaled $7 for all of us!

Accra, Ghana's capital city of two million, has less crime than many U.S. cities its size. Pickpockets, taxi drivers who overcharge, and traffic are the worst culprits most tourists will ever have to deal with. Even though it's an achingly poor country, the locals proudly declare, "Ghana is a nation of laws." English-speaking Ghana is one of the most popular destinations for American tourists to Africa who do the "triangle tour" of Accra, the coastal slave fortresses, and the Ashanti city of Kumasi. But other wonders lie beyond, like Lake Volta (the world's largest artificial lake) and the timeless, arid northern regions. No matter where you go, the magic, struggles, and enduring spirit of modern Africa are sure to hold you in their spell.

Note: To call Ghana, dial 011-233 before the numbers listed below. The hotels listed without prices in cedis (Ghana's currency) request payment in U.S. dollars only.

Colorful, frenetic Accra

Travelers who have never experienced the lively mayhem of a developing country may be in for a shock when they come face to face with Accra's hustle and bustle. Women with towering loads atop their heads weave through traffic; hand-painted beer ads shout, "It Gives You Power"; sellers rush up to cars plying anything from pirated videos to toilet paper; and overloaded outdoor markets selling chickens and underwear spill out onto highways. It's a colorful, frantic jumble that somehow works.

If you can handle crowds, then by all means slip into one of Accra's markets. The largest one, Makola Market (between Kojo Thompson Road, Kinbu Road, and Independence Avenue) has everything including beads and fabrics. For tourists, you'll find the best choice of arts and crafts at the Arts Centre market (right on the coast along 28th February Road near the intersection of Barnes Road). Aggressive sellers offer anything from smoking pipes to hand-carved stools--bargaining is essential.

As for other sights, the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park (on High Street near the intersection of Barnes Road; 30,000 cedis/$3.40 entrance fee) is a grand monument to this leader, complete with crypt, museum, and garish fountains. The small museum is a fascinating glimpse into the country's founding father, who wrote numerous books and laid the groundwork of Pan-Africanism. East of the park is the Soviet-style Independence Square, a huge space with cement arches that can hold up to 30,000 people.

Also swing by the National Museum (Barnes Road near Museum Circle; 21/221-633) to take in Ghana's rich cultural heritage. For a scant 10,000 cedis ($1.15), you can peruse fascinating trinkets like intricate gold weights and gold dust boxes, clan staffs, fertility dolls, swords, currency, bracelets, and more.

To escape the flurry of Accra, hop into a taxi (for roughly 25,000 cedis/$3.25 depending on the time of day) and head for Labadi Beach. This spacious strand is safe for swimming and is lined by pleasant cafes where you can sip on 2,000-cedi ($.25) soft drinks, sitting in a chair in the sand. The entrance fee to the beach is only 10,000 cedis ($1.15).

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