Ghana

Mind your Ghanaian manners

Dashes (tips) are a way of life in Ghana. Rather than calling it a bribe, a dash is a tip that may be requested by anyone from train conductors who seat you to youngsters who may run errands for you. Seen as gifts, dashes will ease your way through Ghana immensely, and are usually about 5,000 cedis ($.67). When taking photos, always ask the person beforehand, and you may be asked to give a dash as well.

Always shake hands and pick up food with your right hand, since the left is used to perform other personal functions.

When traveling with another person of the same sex, you are often required to rent separate hotel rooms. However, unmarried mixed-sex couples have no problem.

When meeting a chief or village elder, always lower yourself or bow with your knees to show respect.

Learning a few words of Twi (akwaaba means welcome) will make you a big hit among Ghanaians. Be sure to always smile and wave to strangers--everyone loves it and invariably waves back.

The nitty gritty

Pack lightly: Weather in both Ghana's tropical south and arid north is warm year-round.

Getting there: Ghana Airways (212/371-2800) offers weekly flights from New York, Washington, D.C., and Baltimore to Accra--the only airline offering nonstops from the U.S. to Ghana. Round trips cost around $1,200, or alternatively, call Silicon Tours (205/821-3886, silicontours.com) for its dirt-cheap air-and-land packages to Ghana that include daily tours and accommodations for around $1,900 for nine nights, including airfare from the United States. 2Afrika (877/200-5610, 2afrika.com) also offers personalized, inexpensive tours to Ghana and West Africa.

Transportation: Tro-tros (the main transportation within Ghana) are minivans that pack passengers in like sardines and go most everywhere for a buck or less. But due to their lack of schedules, frequent breakdowns, and agonizingly sluggish rides, hiring a taxi is recommended instead, especially for long distances. The cost is still minimal, you have a built-in guide, and you'll arrive in half the time than a tro-tro would require. Ask your hotel how much the fare to where you're going should be, and settle on a price with the driver before getting in. Rental cars are not recommended because of their cost ($45 per day) and Ghana's poor roads.

Other transportation options include the sleeper train from Kumasi to the coastal town of Takoradi (50,000 cedis/$7). For the truly adventurous, the cargo ship Yapei Queen (251/206-86) sails up Lake Volta once a week, stopping at remote villages. The boat has three unpretentious cabins for 60,000 cedis ($8)--reserve as far in advance as possible.

Required reading: Be sure to pick up a copy of the brilliant novel The Beautiful Ones Are Not Yet Born by Ghanaian writer Ayi Kwei Armah for a glimpse into the country's modern psyche.

For general information and news on Ghana: Surf to ghanaweb.com and ghana.com.