Out of Anchorage: South Central Alaska

Using Anchorage as your home base, the "real Alaska" can be found just right outside the city limits. Here's your guide to easy day trips in southcentral Alaska

Unless you're coasting by it in an insulated cruise ship, nearly every tourist to Alaska spends time in Anchorage, the largest city in Alaska (which isn't saying much, with just under 300,000 inhabitants). Many first-timers to the 49th state think they need to fly all around the humungous state (twice the size of Texas), an idea as impractical as it is expensive. Much of what visitors are looking for in Alaska--untamed wilderness, stunning mountains, scores of wildlife--can all be had within a day's drive of Anchorage. (Locals have a saying: "Anchorage is only 20 minutes from Alaska.") Not only does this section of the state have the best weather (generally dry and warm compared to rainy Juneau), Anchorage's surprisingly complete infrastructure makes for a plethora of low-cost lodging and traveling options. So even though summertime means high season and high prices, you don't need to trap yourself aboard a crowded cruise to enjoy Alaska affordably. You can see a lot more for even less with a road map and sense of adventure.

You'd think with Alaska's size, there would be a criss-cross network of highways linking the far-flung corners of the state. But this is the sub-Arctic--meaning permafrost, snow, and wild weather makes year-round road travel a pain in the neck. In fact, Alaska really only has a handful of highways, concentrated in the southeastern section of the state. (That's why everyone seems to own a float plane instead!) Luckily, some excellent scenery is found south of Anchorage on the Kenai Peninsula--making for the ideal summer road trip.

The Seward Highway leading south out of Anchorage is the golden path to Alaska's scenery. The minute you get out of town, the road winds along the Chugach mountain range and the long inlet known as the Turnagain Arm (so named because Captain Cook had to make a tricky U-turn at its dead end after realizing he hadn't found the fabled Northwest Passage). Immediately you feel the grand majesty of Alaska, with towering masses of earth and rock thrusting up from the sea, hundreds of stories high. It looks like a Maxfield Parrish landscape, or a mythological drawing from a children's book. If you time it right, you may even catch glimpse of the bore tide--a strange phenomena where the tidal current forms a perfect 6-foot wave that crosses the otherwise peaceful water. Be sure to stop in the Chugach State Park Headquarters along the highway to get info on the area (907/336-3300, kenaipeninsula.info/).

Thrity-seven miles south of Anchorage is a must-stop: the town of Girdwood (girdwoodalaska.com/). This cozy village tucked away in a valley is home to the best ski facilities in Alaska, the fancy and gorgeous Alyeska Resort (800/880-3880, alyeskaresort.com/). Mandatory is a ride up the resort's gondola to halfway up the mountain--the views are out of this world. It's a little pricey, $16 for a roundtrip--but for another $4 they will throw in a full sandwich lunch. You can picnic while taking in the enormous panorama, at a popular spot where paragliders leap off the mountain before your eyes (contact Chugach Paragliding if you're feeling brave--907/754-2400, alyeskaadventure.com/). The hotel is pricey in summer--$199 a room--but come back in fall or winter when rates can dip to a low $95 a room (and winter air/ski/hotel packages through Alaska Airlines can be steal here).

About another hour's drive south from Girdwood, you'll find one of the most unique towns in America: Whittier. After the Japanese began invading the Aleutian Islands in World War II, the town of Whittier was dreamt up by military specialists. They were looking to build a top-secret installation that would be covered by clouds and hidden by huge mountains. They blasted a tunnel through solid granite as an entryway to the tiny town, and tourists now have to time their passage through this one-way tunnel, open on an hourly basis.

Why even bother visiting odd little Whittier (population 300)? It's the entrance point to the remarkable Prince William Sound--yes, the same sound made famous by the Valdez Exxon oil spill of 1989. Oil still lurks here and there from this environmental catastrophe, but the sound is a naturalist's delight, full of sea otters, seals, whales, and glaciers breaking off apartment building-sized chunks of blue ice. For a close-up tour of the sound, Lazy Otter Charters (907/472-6887,lazyotter.com/) offers trips starting at $62.50 (minimum six people), or you can see the sound from sea level by renting kayaks through the Prince William Sound Kayak Center (877/472-2452, pwskayakcenter.com/) for $45 a day. But even the view out of your car window is breathtaking.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Before setting off on one of my many backpacking excursions, I head to Kinko's to rebind my guidebook. I replace the cover with a plain black or navy one. It costs about $6 and allows me to blend in much better while traveling. People see my new book as a journal, not a travel guide that labels me a tourist.

— Michelle Johnson
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Bring a single-hole punch and lanyard on your next cruise. Once aboard, you can make a hole in your plastic key card and attach the lanyard, allowing you to carry the key around your neck. This is especially useful when your dress or slacks have no pockets. Just be sure to put the hole where it won't interfere with the card's magnetic strip.

— Sallie Clinard
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When overseas, I carry a "cheat sheet" that includes exchange rates and metric conversions. Currency conversions are available at oanda.com.

— Carol Vela
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Turn off your fridge's icemaker before you leave home. And remember to empty the ice cube bin. The power was out for several days while I was away recently. When I got back, the melted ice had refrozen throughout the freezer compartment. It took forever to clean up.

— Mary C. Clements
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Going to a place where you don't speak the language? Take along a picture booklet filled with examples of common food items (chicken, cow, rice, bottled water, coffee, wine, etc.) and use it to find dishes you like—you only have to point to the picture of what you want. We did this during a recent trip to Asia and always had wonderful meals.

— Mario Gonzalez
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Instead of packing a complete shaving kit, my husband fills his wide-mouth Nalgene water bottle with items such as razors, spare contact lenses, eyeglasses, toothbrush, and so on. This turned out to be particularly useful on our trip to Costa Rica, where we also took the bottle on our day hikes to volcanoes and the jungle.

— Terry Clemson
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My husband and I travel to out-of-the-way towns where rural roads can be hard to navigate. We use a handheld GPS (Global Positioning System) to mark the spot where we're staying, the main highway turnoffs, and, most important, the turns to unmarked side roads. When we're back-tracking and arrive again at confusing intersections, we whip out our GPS and immediately know which route to take home.

— Florence McGinn
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If you get lost on a ship, remember that most share a common layout. The lido-deck buffet restaurant, for example, will almost always be in the back to accommodate comfortable outdoor seating in the least windy part of the ship, while the lounge/theater will be in the front because wind is not a factor (there are no windows).

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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I was booking tickets online for an upcoming flight to Europe from the East Coast. One particularly attractive fare was offered on a U.S. airline as well as on its foreign "partner airline." Same plane, same flight, same base price. But it was more than $100 cheaper per ticket to book with the foreign airline versus the U.S.one. We saved more than $400 for four tickets, but we'll be on the same plane!

— Lori Uhl
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My husband packs Q-tips in a plastic cassette case. It's small and snaps shut, keeping the cotton swabs clean and dry.

— Nancy Bastian
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The help of a concierge at an expensive hotel is available even if you're staying at a motel across the street. Go to the concierge with $5 (or whatever the assistance is worth to you) held discreetly but visibly in your hand. Chances are you won't be asked whether you're staying at the hotel. This worked for us once when we were stranded by a blizzard. We tried to rebook our flights on our own, but phones at the airlines were busy for two days straight. The concierge at a fancy hotel a few blocks away got through on his first try and managed to rearrange our flights for us.

— Janet Willer
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Before leaving for a vacation, I print out all our reservations and directions, and I create a contact sheet for emergencies. Then I gather all the papers together, punch some holes, and place them in a folder that has a middle section for three–holed papers. The side pockets hold brochures, business cards, ticket stubs, receipts, and maps that we collect along the way and want to bring home for our scrapbook.

— Sonal Gupte
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Finding the bathroom in the middle of the night in a strange hotel room or cruise-ship cabin can be a challenge. Leaving the bathroom light on seems wasteful and makes the room too bright for sleeping. My husband and I used to travel with a night-light, but we couldn't always find a convenient place to plug it in. We've recently discovered a better solution: plastic light sticks. They come in several glow-in-the- dark colors and are activated by bending the tube into a circle and connecting the ends. Each evening, we hook one of the loops over the bathroom-door handle, where it provides a gentle glow through the night.

— Carol Attar
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There's nothing worse than trying to fall asleep under a mosquito net and then realizing that the bugs are finding a way inside. So next time you're heading someplace tropical--where you know you'll be sleeping under mosquito netting--remember to toss a roll of Scotch tape into your suitcase. It's perfect for quick repairs.

— Christopher Swain
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I always snap photographs of scenic highway markers, park entrance signs, and the like. These informational photos are put into our album to help identify the many sites that we visited.

— Betty L. Cox
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By the time I got home from my first trip to Europe in 1963, I'd collected menus from several restaurants I liked. I threw them into a box. In 1988, I returned to Europe and went to the Middle East. Once again, I picked up a few menus. This time I had them all framed and they now hang in my kitchen. Since then, I've added to the collection. It's fun looking at the prices and remembering the good times—plus they make great conversation pieces when I have a party.

— Jerri Moore
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A beach ball can replace many expensive in-flight gadgets. Depending on how much you inflate it, the ball can function as a very comfortable footrest, a back support, or a lap pillow to support your book.

— Dorothy Vincent
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I carry bilingual takeout menus when traveling to countries like China, Korea, and Vietnam. When I'm at a restaurant with no menu (or one that I can't read), I give mine to the waiter so he can point to dishes they can prepare. I've learned to pack a few extra menus, as the restaurants often like to keep a copy.

— Charles Locher
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Shout Wipes take up very little space in your purse or backpack and are invaluable for treating stains. While traveling on an airplane, I gave one to a most grateful Italian after he spilled wine on his tie. Our friendship extended through customs, and we're now e-mail pals. Great stuff!

— Marilyn Rogers
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I enjoy off-peak travel best--rates are cheaper, lines are shorter--but the weather can be iffy. To combat Mother Nature's unpredictability, I always pack a roll or two of black-and-white film. While dreary-day color photos bring only consoling remarks from friends, black-and-white film tends to lend a mystique to gray landscapes and creates some very dramatic Ansel Adams--esque shots.

— Ed Danyo
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Sign up for guest programs at every hotel chain that offers one, even if you haven't stayed at that hotel before or think you may not travel enough to reap benefits from multiple stays. Some programs send coupons for discounted rooms or complimentary room upgrades just for being a member. After signing up for the Omni Hotels Select Guest program, I received a coupon that I was able to redeem for a room in Chicago for $80 per night.

— Allison Meyer
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Don't assume a single room costs less than a double one. I booked a hotel in Spain online and noticed that rates were the same whether I booked a single or a double, but the single was much smaller and its bathroom had only a small shower stall and no tub.

— Don Carne
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For the most comprehensive information regarding travel by train or by ship, check out seat61.com. I've found that the site has all sorts of helpful advice for Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Middle East.

— Kay Bozich Owens
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I used to lug around a clothes steamer and adapter to stay wrinkle-free while on the road, but I've since opted for something more low-tech. I now travel with a Platypus collapsible bottle and a spray bottle head. After checking into my hotel, I immediately hang my clothes and give them a spritz with water from the spray bottle. After several hours, the wrinkles fall out, and the clothing is dry and ready to wear.

— Dr. Cornelia Cho
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Sending a flat-rate Priority Mail box costs $8.10, no matter how much it weighs or which state it's going to. After accumulating too much stuff to fit in my suitcase during a trip to Atlanta, I filled a box with laundry, souvenirs, and gifts for my grandchildren, and mailed it to my home address.

— Eleanor Waterhouse
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Whenever I know I'll be renting a car, I pack a couple of folded paper towels and two small spray bottles--one filled with window cleaner and the other with Rain-X, a product that repels raindrops. It's hard enough driving an unfamiliar car in an unfamiliar location. At least with a clean windshield I'm able to see properly, no matter the weather.

— Ed Rainer
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Know your PINs! My husband and I left home with very little cash on us, and instead of stopping to get money at the airport, my husband--ever the procrastinator--decided to wait until we got to Cancún to use his ATM card. Guess what? It didn't work in any of the machines. And although he had several credit cards for cash advances, he didn't know the PINs off the top of his head. We charged everything we could during our stay, but most of the markets don't take credit cards. Needless to say, I didn't come home with a lot of souvenirs.

— CaSandra Knight
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I teach a Tulane University seminar on independent European travel for first-timers. Until recently, I advocated Europe's great rail networks as the way to go. Now, with the plethora of budget airlines, I recommend a combination of the two. But it makes the planning stage—which I find almost as much fun as actually taking the trip—more involved. Thank goodness for whichbudget.com, a Web site that lists, by city, which budget airlines serve which cities. Then, to find links to all of Europe's state railway Web sites, visit railfaneurope.net. Each site generally features a travel planner and, almost invariably, an English-language option.

— Brian Hughes
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Dry-cleaning bags stop clothes from wrinkling. Slide each garment into its own bag (leave the hanger at home) and place them flat on your bed, one on top of another. Then carefully fold the entire stack to fit it in your suitcase. Once you get to your hotel, hang everything up as soon as you can. You'll never unpack a suitcase of wrinkled clothes again.

— Claudette Christman
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Put your perfume and cologne bottles inside pairs of rolled-up socks to keep them cushioned during your journey.

— Joia Starks

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