The Cook Islands: Bargain in the South Pacific

That rare discovery--a lush, unspoiled South Pacific escape that anyone can afford

After hours of nothing but deep-blue sea and the occasional cloud, at last it appears from the plane window: an improbable crop of jagged, green peaks descending to white sands below. As if the eye isn't drawn already, a brilliant-turquoise lagoon glowingly outlines the oval-shaped isle's every curve. Welcome to Rarotonga, which, despite being the largest and most visited of the Cook Islands, is that rarest of finds-a safe, pristine, and (best of all) affordable South Pacific escape. The term "tropical paradise" is overused to the point of meaninglessness, but there's something unusually idyllic and unspoiled here. It's not just the climate (heavenly-similar to Hawaii); or th e attractive, friendly natives (at first glance, indistinguishable from other Polynesians); or the local accent (Kiwi-esque thanks to big brother New Zealand). After a quick look around, there's an odd sense that something is missing.

Then it hits your brand-name-addled brain. Unlike nearly every other place on the globe, the Cook Islands are not shackled with chains (hotels and fast-food chains, that is). No KFC or McDonald's; no Hilton, Hyatt, or Holiday Inn.

How have Cook Islanders held corporate interests at bay? For one, tight-knit communities led by the House of Ariki, or tribal chiefs, shape the moral, cultural, and economic landscapes. Crime is nearly nonexistent. Most natives speak both English and Cook Islands Maori in everyday life. Plus, there's the land situation. Self-governing since 1965 (but still closely tied to New Zealand), the Cook Islands is a relative newcomer to tourism, its international airport opening in 1974. Learning from the mistakes of Polynesia n brethren who sold out to corporations decades prior, it established early on that all land would be family-owned and never sold (though it can be leased for up to 60 years, after community approval). As a result, there are scads of family-owned hotels, restaurants, and backpacker hangouts, all of reasonable size and price, in sharp contrast to the gargantuan, expensive resorts ubiquitous elsewhere in the Tropics. The culture also fosters other welcome rarities for beach retreats: Tipping is not encouraged, haggling is considered rude, and aggressive sales tactics are ruder still.

Once one arrives-and admittedly, getting here requires a fair amount of time and money-you find hassle-free, inexpensive, laid-back living at its finest. Hostel beds cost as little as $10. Beachfront bungalows are $100. Entire two-bedroom homes rent for as little as $450 a week. These prices would be decent as is, but the kicker is that they're all quoted in the local currency (New Zealand dollars) , meaning Americans can effectively slice them in half (NZ$1=US$.53). Surprising as it seems, Yanks can pay around $5 for hostel beds, $53 for bungalows, $235 a week for home rentals, all within stumbling distance of the sparkling South Pacific. (Unless stated otherwise, prices in this article are in U.S. dollars.)

Rarotonga revealed

Rarotonga is the biggest and most populated of the Cook Islands (home to about half of its 21,000 residents), but the entire coastline is circled in less than an hour's leisurely drive (20 miles around). Road signs are few and there are no street addresses, but the place is so small it's easy to find one's way around. (From the United States, first dial 011-682 for all numbers.)

Rarotonga is divided into several villages, but Avarua, just east of the airport, is really the only town in all the Cook Islands. Even so, it's only a few blocks big, with a single roundabout, no traffic lights, and a handful of understated storefronts and eateries. Sh opping for black pearls (a regional specialty) is popular, but prices vary widely, so shop around before buying. Though somewhat redundant, there are two national museums in town, the Library and Museum of the Cook Islands (Makea Tinirau Rd., 20-748) and the National Museum (Victoria Rd., 20-725). Both request a donation for admission (NZ$1 is reasonable) and provide a glimpse into the local religions, traditions, and culture.

Every visitor should make a trip around the island, either via the coastal Ara Tapu road or the older Are Metua interior road. All drivers need a Cook Islands license, a cute but pointless souvenir that costs $5.30 for cars and mopeds, available at the police station in Avarua (22-499). If heading to the outer island Aitutaki, get your license there for $1.30. Budget (20-895, budget.co.ck) and Avis (22-833, avis.co.ck) have several locations, with cars renting for around $31 a day, mopeds for $12, and bicycles for $4.20. Rarotonga Rentals (22-3 26) often undercuts the competition (mopeds for $6.90 a day on weekly rentals), but scout out each because they all offer specials. Two buses run around the island during the daytime, one clockwise, one counterclockwise, costing $1.30 one way, $2.10 round trip. Taxis cost at least $10.50. Many lodgings, including low-end properties, provide free airport pickup for guests.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Put your perfume and cologne bottles inside pairs of rolled-up socks to keep them cushioned during your journey.

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Sending a flat-rate Priority Mail box costs $8.10, no matter how much it weighs or which state it's going to. After accumulating too much stuff to fit in my suitcase during a trip to Atlanta, I filled a box with laundry, souvenirs, and gifts for my grandchildren, and mailed it to my home address.

— Eleanor Waterhouse
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When planning a vacation, we send away for brochures from major tour operators. They provide hotel and restaurant recommendations and sightseeing itineraries, which we then duplicate on our own. Use this trick to mimic the vacation packages of high-end tour operators for what can turn out to be a fraction of the cost.

— Raymond White
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If you even manage to get a cell signal while at sea, your roaming charges will be outrageous. To communicate with your cabinmates, leave Post-it Notes on your door detailing where you'll be throughout the day.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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While traveling, I love to send postcards to friends--and also to myself. I get the best photo postcard of the place I visited and write down what I did there as a reminder. When I get home, I tape them in my travel journals so I can flip back and forth between the photo and the reverie.

— Kimberly Morgan
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I carry recipe cards with me to jot down interesting dishes I come across while on vacation. (I also like to use colorful postcards from the area I'm visiting and trim them to fit my recipe box.) Here's a wonderful dessert idea I brought home after spending a rainy afternoon with my husband in a London pub: Top a warm waffle with vanilla ice cream, maple syrup, and chopped pecans. It's heaven with a cup of hot tea.

— Susan Mullens
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If you plan to buy crafts in a country where bargaining is expected, use the time it takes for luggage to be unloaded to scope out the airport stores. Jot down items you like and their retail prices. If you find a similar item while touring the country, you have a top-end bargaining point. If you don't find the object at a better price, you can always pick it up at the airport while you're waiting for your flight home.

— Deborah Seter
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Pack a glue stick for journaling. Rather than bringing home an envelope full of ticket stubs and mementos, you can glue them into your journal as you're traveling. You'll have a better chance of remembering what the ticket was for if you label it right away.

— Jon Chun
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In areas where the majority of people don't speak English, head to an Internet café. In our experience, they're full of friendly young people anxious to practice their English.

— Christine and Duncan Orr
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If your tablecloth is wet at dinner, you should prepare for rough seas. Restaurant staffers have been known to slightly dampen the tablecloth to keep plates and glasses from sliding.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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It's unnecessary to make a packing list for each trip. Instead, draw up a master list with everything you might need on any given trip--from ski goggles to snorkels, slippers to saline solution. Save it on your computer. Before you start packing, cross out anything you don't need for that particular trip.

— Bonnie Herbst
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If your children are old enough to dress themselves, consider this packing tip: Put each outfit (including socks and underwear) into a Ziploc bag and pack one bag for each day you'll be on vacation. It will save both time and aggravation, and may even prevent items from getting left behind.

— Robert E. Jones
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Know your PINs! My husband and I left home with very little cash on us, and instead of stopping to get money at the airport, my husband--ever the procrastinator--decided to wait until we got to Cancún to use his ATM card. Guess what? It didn't work in any of the machines. And although he had several credit cards for cash advances, he didn't know the PINs off the top of his head. We charged everything we could during our stay, but most of the markets don't take credit cards. Needless to say, I didn't come home with a lot of souvenirs.

— CaSandra Knight
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Certified scuba divers who take prescription medications should keep a doctor's permission-to-dive statement with their certification cards. On a recent trip to Jamaica, I truthfully completed a lengthy questionnaire about my health, revealing that I have medically controlled high blood pressure and cholesterol. I was told I could not dive without a doctor's OK, even though I exercise regularly, am very fit, and have no other health issues. I now carry a letter from my doctor attesting to my fitness for scuba diving.

— Ginny Ganthner
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When booking a rental car online, click on "special offers" or "hot deals" to find the company's current promotional codes. Price your reservation using each code. Also, keep in mind that rates fluctuate according to seasons and slow periods. I managed to save more than $170 on a ten-day rental in Orlando, Fla.,by changing my reservation dates twice and by using different codes.

— Jeff Thomsen
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If you're traveling solo and your room has a double bed, sleep on the side farthest from the phone. It's slept on less frequently and is therefore more comfortable.

— Ruth Schnur
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A company called Orikaso makes brightly colored polypropylene sheets that can be folded--kind of like origami--to form a dish, bowl, or cup. The sheets are lightweight and reusable, and you simply flatten them when you're finished. We found ours at a sporting goods store, but you can also buy them online. Check orikaso.com for retailers.

— Susan Day
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Before you head to the airport, stop by the front desk of your hotel or cruise ship and ask if they'll print your boarding pass for you. It'll save Internet browsing fees and time at check-in. It's worked for me at several Marriott hotels and on a Celebrity cruise.

— Rose Jakubaszek
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Before setting off on one of my many backpacking excursions, I head to Kinko's to rebind my guidebook. I replace the cover with a plain black or navy one. It costs about $6 and allows me to blend in much better while traveling. People see my new book as a journal, not a travel guide that labels me a tourist.

— Michelle Johnson
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If you're looking for authentic street food--whether you're in New York or Bangkok--don't buy from the pitifully lonely vendor who has no customers. Head to the cart with the longest line of hungry people in front of it. Locals know which vendors serve the best (and safest) food. Even if you have to wait, your stomach will thank you.

— Bryan Thao Worra
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My daughter and I bought disposable digital camcorders at a CVS pharmacy before going to Europe. It was a nice way to document our trip--each camera stored about 20 minutes of video. Once home, we dropped the cameras off at the pharmacy. The next day, our DVD was ready. We were very pleased with the quality and the cost: $30 for the camera and $13 for each DVD.

— Maria B. Murad
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When you change your clocks back or forward, be sure to check the expiration date on all your frequent-flier miles. This way they're checked twice a year. We overlooked one of the many accounts in our household and lost a free ticket when the miles expired.

— Lynda Self
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Frequent fliers should consider noise-cancellation headphones. They have a built-in device that "hears" low-frequency sound just before you do and generates a sound wave that cancels it out. Several manufacturers make them, ranging in price from $40 to $300 or so.

— Ed Wilhite
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Most hotels provide cloth shoe mitts but not polish. In a pinch, a dollop of skin cream on a shoe mitt (or even a tissue) can make scuff marks vanish and leave shoes as shiny as if they'd been cleaned by a pro.

— John Nechman
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Finding the bathroom in the middle of the night in a strange hotel room or cruise-ship cabin can be a challenge. Leaving the bathroom light on seems wasteful and makes the room too bright for sleeping. My husband and I used to travel with a night-light, but we couldn't always find a convenient place to plug it in. We've recently discovered a better solution: plastic light sticks. They come in several glow-in-the- dark colors and are activated by bending the tube into a circle and connecting the ends. Each evening, we hook one of the loops over the bathroom-door handle, where it provides a gentle glow through the night.

— Carol Attar
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I always bring a small flashlight to hotels in case there's a blackout. The building may not be equipped with emergency lighting, and, if necessary, my flashlight will help me quickly locate the nearest exit.

— Lois Meshonek
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Even if you're staying at a standard resort hotel, take advantage of the day passes sold by many all-inclusive resorts (i.e., the right to use their facilities--such as swimming pools and beach chairs--and enjoy their meals for a day). The passes are primarily designed for cruise passengers on day trips but can be obtained by anyone for very little money. For persons staying in a less-expensive, no-frills hotel, it can give you the experience of a larger, more extensive resort for a day or two.

— Mandy Vieregg
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Before leaving on a trip, I print the names and addresses of my friends and family onto clear mailing labels. (All standard word-processing programs have preset templates for creating address labels.) Then, I take the address-label sheets with me on vacation. Since the addresses are already saved in my computer and the mailing labels are adhesive, addressing postcards has become really easy.

— Lisa Higgins
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Place a fabric softener sheet in your suitcase when packing. It'll absorb odors and dampness and keep clothing smelling fresh. It's most beneficial in warm, humid climates and while at sea. I found this quite useful during my twenty-three years in the U.S.Navy.

— Edward Jewell
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I've found that by wedging a bath mat under my hotel-room door, I can reduce any light or noise coming from the hallway—ensuring that I'll sleep better.

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