Buenos Aires: The Low-Cost Capital of South America

But don't cry for Argentina-fly down to the land of tango and Evita and boost the economy by taking advantage of sensational prices and deals.

Not too long ago (say, a year), Argentina was a high-priced stop on the South American circuit, either to be skipped altogether or endured as a wallet-busting option. Not anymore. A recent, panicky devaluation of the Argentine peso to nearly one third of its former value against the U.S. dollar ($1 now buys about three pesos; it used to get only one peso) has made Buenos Aires into a bargain bonanza with spectacular prices for formerly untouchable luxuries. B.A. now offers $4 steaks and $3 lessons in the tango. Another price comparison is even more dramatic. Feel like popping into a four-star hotel for a suite with a gorgeous view, living room, and whirlpool tub? Then head upon arrival to the Amerian Hotel (Reconquista 699, 011-54-11/4317-5100, www.amerian.com), which charged a forbidding $350 a night for that room two years ago. Now the same room is about $100, and there are some renting for as little as $60.

Buenos Aires

It also remains a pleasure-loving city. Porte os, as the natives of this port along the banks of the Rio de la Plata are known, are not letting economic troubles depress them. Restaurants, clubs, and caf,s are packed with locals partying their blues away. And tourists are around in large numbers, too-2003 is expected to break all records for international visitors. Images of worried runs-on-the-bank might have filled your TV screens only a year or so ago, but that agony has now subsided, and the city has placed extra police in areas you're likely to visit. It's as easy and safe to visit B.A. as ever. So, if you have champagne tastes and a beer income, this one is for you.

Three recommended areas of Buenos Aires-Avenida de Mayo, San Telmo, and the Microcentro-put you within walking distance of, or a 3 peso ($1) cab ride to, virtually everything. We've discussed each section separately, and also grouped our hotel recommendations separately within each of the three sections.

(When dialing the numbers that follow in this article from the United States, first dial 011-54-11.)

Navenida de Mayo

Begin your visit at the Plaza de Mayo, in front of the Casa Rosada, closely associated with Eva Peron (better known as Evita), the wife of the late President Juan Peron. The balcony here is where she made those speeches more than 50 years ago. There's no cost to tour the building's heavily ornamented rooms, filled with art collected as the country grew in wealth and power.

Currently, the building's famous balcony overlooks a political event every Thursday afternoon, when the Madres de Plaza de Mayo engage in a demonstration in which they carry pictures of their children-some of the 30,000 who "disappeared" during the military government's "dirty war" from 1976 to 1983. The regime's crushing defeat by Britain during the Malvinas (or Falklands) War finally brought democracy. Still, the mothers continue to hope for justice.

A top hotel choice in the area, adorned with marble and bronze touches, is Castelar Hotel & Spa (Av. de Mayo 1152, 4383-5000, www.castelarhotel.com.ar), where free breakfast and use of an enormous downstairs sauna are included in low prices starting at 140 pesos ($47) for a double. Just down the block is the belle epoque Nuevo Mundial Hotel (Av. de Mayo 1298, 4383-0011, www.stelfair.com/argentina/mundial). While the latter two-star charmer shows its age and is popular with a young backpacking crowd, why should they be the only ones enjoying doubles starting at 50 pesos ($17), with breakfast? (Some of the Nuevo Mundial's units even have enormous balconies overlooking the avenue.) You'll also be dazzled by a nearby bargain four-star hotel actually called the Dazzler (Libertad 902, 4816-5005, www.dazzlerhotel.com), which sometimes offers Web specials as low as $37 a night per double. Its location is especially convenient to the Corrientes theater district, and all rooms come with free Internet, cable, and daily newspapers.

Note that the Dazzler is just around the corner from one of the most beautiful buildings in town, the 1908 Teatro Colon (4378-7344, www.teatrocolon.org.ar), host to many of the world's finest opera singers, and ornamented with gilded columns and sculpture. Tours are conducted every day but Monday for 10 pesos ($3.33; enter at Tucum n 1171). Many of those bejeweled Evita images you've seen show her attending events here.

If this area doesn't satisfy your Evita curiosity, then take a 3 peso ($1) cab ride to Recoleta Cemetery close to the intersections of Guido and Junin. Find her by following the tourists or looking for the tomb with the most flowers and plaques. Recoleta, free to the public, is full of mausoleums and sculptural wonders. If you come on a Saturday or a Sunday, you'll also encounter the Recoleta Market just in front of the cemetery entrance. Stalls are packed with bargains, like 10 peso ($3.33) T-shirts and 6 peso ($2) leather belts.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Cruise lines offer packaged side trips at their ports of call. If you go online and look for these expeditions ahead of time, you can book directly with the tour companies and save money.

— Cindy Rucker
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Ziploc now makes extra-large bags with handles. They're nearly two feet by two feet, and although Ziploc advertises them as being good for storage, they're also useful for traveling. Bring one on long shopping excursions and then use it as an extra carry-on for souvenirs on the way home.

— Meredith McCulloch
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An extra contact lens case holds enough toiletries for a short trip. Squeeze a few dabs of toothpaste into one side and perhaps some facial cleanser or moisturizer in the other side. Just the right amount of each will fit for your overnights or weekends away.

— Jen Shoemaker
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Booking condos last minute can yield incredible bargains, and there's a way to maximize savings while minimizing the risk that you won't find a room at all. ("Last minute" generally means a month or less before your stay; seven-day deals usually start on a Saturday.) Buy your plane ticket and book a refundable hotel room you can use in case you can't find that bargain condo. Then, a month or so before your trip, start looking at last-minute sites—lastminutetravel.com, site59.com, etc. If you find a deal, simply get a refund on the hotel room and pay the cancellation fee, if there happens to be one. Using this technique, I found a great beachfront, one-bedroom condo on Maui—and I saved about $300.

— Joan Chyun
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Bring a single-hole punch and lanyard on your next cruise. Once aboard, you can make a hole in your plastic key card and attach the lanyard, allowing you to carry the key around your neck. This is especially useful when your dress or slacks have no pockets. Just be sure to put the hole where it won't interfere with the card's magnetic strip.

— Sallie Clinard
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Rather than automatically using your hotel's valet parking, you should check to see if there's an adjacent parking lot or garage that offers a better rate. On a recent trip, I was able to park across the street from my hotel for $10 per day--versus $27 per day to valet park with the hotel.

— Charles LaFleur
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Give your children a coach's whistle in case they get lost; put it on a ribbon so they can wear it around their neck. The piercing sound may be annoying, but you'll definitely find them quicker!

— Chandra Huang
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Before traveling overseas, look at your health insurance card. If it only shows an 800 or 888 number for precertification of hospital admissions, call that number and obtain the local number with an area code. Many 800 numbers can't be dialed from foreign countries. I learned this the hard way during an emergency hospital admission in Switzerland. The delay in reaching my carrier could have been avoided.

— Chris Carveth
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Treat yourself to a golf-ball foot massage. During a long flight, or afterward in your hotel room, take off your shoes, put a golf ball on the floor, and roll it under your foot. It's a great stress reliever. Practice a bit before you try it on a plane, so that your ball doesn't go rolling down the cabin, tripping up unsuspecting passengers.

— Dawn Yadlosky
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Destinationcoupons.com supplies free discount coupons for cities all over the United States and the world. Print them out on your home computer and save on hotels, shows, rental cars, restaurants, and many other activities.

— Donald Bertolet
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Finding healthy breakfast alternatives at an airport can prove difficult. I always travel with an insulated travel mug. Before leaving home I fill it with a high-protein cereal and then request low-fat milk on the flight.

— Randy Hartselle
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While traveling, I love to send postcards to friends--and also to myself. I get the best photo postcard of the place I visited and write down what I did there as a reminder. When I get home, I tape them in my travel journals so I can flip back and forth between the photo and the reverie.

— Kimberly Morgan
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I always pack a Petzl Tikka Plus headlamp. It's small, weighs next to nothing, and is perfect for reading in bed at night without disturbing my husband. They're sold online and at outdoor-gear stores for about $33.

— Linda Smejkal
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Instead of bringing one of those bungee cables to hang-dry my delicates and socks, I pack a couple of mini plastic hangers--the ones that bras and panties come on when you buy them. They take up very little room in my luggage and can be thrown away at the end of the trip.

— Monica Pileggi
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Don't rush off the car-rental lot. Before driving away--especially in foreign countries where the controls might be unfamiliar-test the headlights and brakes, and look for the extra tire and changing tools. I once had a rental with malfunctioning brakes in Mexico and caused a minor accident--one that could certainly have been avoided had I checked them properly before leaving the lot.

— Doreen Stelton
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In order to provide any reimbursement for a lost suitcase, most airlines and insurance companies require an itemized list of exactly what was inside it. Unfortunately, remembering everything you packed after the fact is virtually impossible. To avoid the headache, take pictures of the items you're going to put in your suitcase with your digital camera or cell phone. The photos will make creating the list a breeze, and, in the event of a dispute with the airline or insurance agent, you have some visual evidence of ownership.

— Erica Rounsefell
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If you plan to leave a gratuity for hotel staff, follow our friend Phil's good advice: Give it at the beginning of your vacation, not at the end. He introduces himself to the housekeepers early in the trip and hands them a nice tip. Guess who always has plenty of coffee and fresh towels?

— Lou Stover
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A shoe organizer hung over the bathroom door is my solution for hotel-room clutter. The compartments are perfect for stashing everything from room keys and travel documents to toiletries and, of course, shoes. The extra storage space came in especially handy on a recent cruise, when we needed all the room we could get in our tiny cabin.

— Jane Tague
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If I plan to travel to several countries that use different currencies, I pack a few cloth change purses: U.S. dollars go into one, British pounds in another, euros in a third, etc. When I'm sightseeing, I carry only the money I need; the purses that I'm not using are locked away in the hotel safe. I avoid fumbling around in shops and mixing up coins that look alike. Plus,I always know exactly how much cash I have.

— Peg Welch
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Pick just two colors to mix and match throughout your trip. You'll cut down on luggage, not least because you won't have to bring a bunch of shoes to match a wide assortment of colors.

— Lori Fields
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I used a well-known travel site to price tickets for a trip to Las Vegas. The flight I wanted was available, but I decided to wait to see if prices would come down. That flight stopped being listed after a week, and the next best flight kept getting more expensive. About five weeks later, I checked prices from a different PC. Whaddya know? The original flight was available, for $50 less than that next-best flight. That same evening I checked again from my PC. The flight I wanted was not available,so I deleted the cookies for the site and tried again. Voilà! The flight I wanted at the price I wanted. Moral of the story: Clean up your cookies—it could save you money!

— Kelly Malasics
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Put a few plastic trash bags in the outer pockets of your suitcases and carry-ons. If you arrive at your destination and it's raining, you can cover your luggage with the bags while you make your way to your hotel. Just cut a slit for handles or straps.

— Barbara Gesse
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Using restaurant.com, you can buy gift certificates good at eateries in your destination city, regularly snagging (in my experience) $25 certificates for as little as $5 to $8.The site is awesome, and it works as well for restaurant certificates in your own city and for obtaining gifts for friends.

— Derrick Tennant
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I reverse the batteries in my portable CD player before packing it in my suitcase or backpack, in case it's accidentally turned on when my bag is jostled. I came up with the idea after arriving at my destination to find that the brand-new batteries I'd put into my Walkman were dead.

— Chris Giaimo
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Internet phone services like Vonage can be programmed to send transcribed voice mails to your email in-box. That way, you can check your home answering machine quickly at an Internet cafe without paying insane roaming fees on your cell. The transcriptions won't always be perfect, but you'll get the gist.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Remember to check the hours of operation for your hotel's airport shuttle. In Rome,we were surprised to learn that our hotel--which touted its shuttle--only offered the service a few hours a day.

— Gail Moriarty
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While traveling abroad, I've frequently encountered some appallingly bad (and often very funny) English translations of menus. In those cases, I simply offered to clean up the translations in exchange for a meal. This has worked quite a few times.

— William Boyle
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A company called Orikaso makes brightly colored polypropylene sheets that can be folded--kind of like origami--to form a dish, bowl, or cup. The sheets are lightweight and reusable, and you simply flatten them when you're finished. We found ours at a sporting goods store, but you can also buy them online. Check orikaso.com for retailers.

— Susan Day
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Anyone tired of the same boring postcards that are found at every roadside tourist trap should try shopping for vintage postcards at an antiques shop. They're a great addition to any photo album, as they often show what the local attractions looked like prior to development.

— Christian Galloway
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Sending a flat-rate Priority Mail box costs $8.10, no matter how much it weighs or which state it's going to. After accumulating too much stuff to fit in my suitcase during a trip to Atlanta, I filled a box with laundry, souvenirs, and gifts for my grandchildren, and mailed it to my home address.

— Eleanor Waterhouse

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