AFFORDABLE EUROPE

Do It Yourself

Eliminate the middleman! If you plan the trip yourself, you get to choose your own adventure--whether it's in the saddle of a bike or at the helm of a sailboat, you'll discover a Europe far removed from higher-priced guided tours. This is your Europe at your pace.

Walking & Biking 
 
From the vineyards of Tuscany to the wildflowers of Provence, self-guided hiking and biking trips cost as little as $408 per person per week. The experts take care of all the details--crafting an itinerary along the most scenic roads, booking cozy B&Bs, providing maps, and often enlisting a sag wagon to truck your gear from one inn to the next.

Itineraries range from slow-going jaunts to Tour de France-size epics, but most are designed for tourists in average physical condition. Figure on hiking at least four to eight miles (three to four hours) each day. Bikers cover 20 to 40 miles a day, but that still leaves plenty of time to explore.

Go-today.com sells weeklong hiking and biking trips across Europe ($539 to $2,559 per person, go-today.com). Bike Tours Direct acts as a clearinghouse for local European bike-tour outfits with itineraries including the Danube ($408), Tuscany ($583), and the Loire Valley ($589, 877/462-2423, biketoursdirect.com). Distant Journeys sets up self-guided treks in France, Italy, and Switzerland, including a hut-to-hut hike across Mont Blanc ($860, 888/845-5781, distantjourneys.com).

Barging 
 
Savor the scenery of Europe's countryside at a leisurely 5 to 7 mph by cruising a canal. Most associate barging with France, but Europe is threaded with thousands of miles of canals and rivers, and solo cruising is becoming popular in Ireland, the U.K., Italy, Holland, and Germany. The best part: Even a six-person, self-drive barge costs only $335 to $425 per person per week. 

Ignore those barge trips that are really mini-cruises on oversize riverboats. Who needs a stateroom when you can be the captain? If you can handle a car, you can drive a barge. Along with the keys, you get a crash course in barging, including mooring and how to go through locks. Worried you'll miss all the best bits by going it alone? Consider a bed-and-breakfast tour that includes some meals and a degree of support while still leaving the driving to you.

The pace will be set by how often you stop--arrange for rental bikes onboard to explore nearby villages and vineyards--and how many locks you have to go through. The barging season runs from late March through October. You rent by the week, and rates should include fuel, linens, an equipped galley, and navigational gear.

Le Boat (800/992-0291, leboat.com) and Connoisseur (888/355-9491, connoisseurafloat.com) make planning practically effortless. The Barge Broker (800/275-9794, bargebroker.com) rents self-drive boats and arranges bed-and-breakfast barge trips in France.

Sailing
You needn't be an Onassis to sail the Greek islands or the coast of Turkey. Whether aboard a sailboat or motor yacht, you have three main options for tackling the high seas.

Self-skippered bareboat yachts come with everything and the kitchen sink--snorkeling gear, CD player, and other amenities--for $300 to $500 per person per week, assuming you split the costs between six to eight people. The price varies with the season, as well as with the size, type, and age of the craft. Slightly worn yachts over five years old tend to be better bargains, but may suffer from dubious plumbing (pump toilets break easily).

Wondering whether you have the experience to go bareboat? Frankly, if you have to ask the question, you should charter a skippered boat. Captains charge around $130 per day. A cook runs another $110 to $130 per day. Fully crewed boats including meals cost $700 to $800 per person per week (drinks are usually extra).

IfIf you're already an old salt but feel skittish about sailing solo in foreign waters, consider joining a flotilla led by an experienced skipper. However, flotillas add about 15 percent to the bareboat price, and you exchange a lot of freedom for that safety net--sailing dates and routes are all prearranged.

Both Odyssey Sailing (odysseysailing.gr) and Fyly Yachting (fyly.gr) offer bareboats, crewed yachts, and flotilla tours in Greece. Ocean Blue Yachts arranges bareboat and skippered charters in Greece, Turkey, Italy, and Croatia (oceanblueyachts.com). The agency Contact Turkey deals in bareboats and crewed yachts in Turkey (contactturkey.com). Blue Voyage (800/818-8753, bluevoyage.com) books skippered charters in Turkey and Greece. The name-your-own-price website sailonline.com links travelers directly with boat owners (mostly bareboat; some crewed) for a $39 fee, but it claims you can nab prices 35 percent to 50 percent below the going rates.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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Hotels
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When I called to book a hotel room in Budapest, I was offered a rate of $75 per night. After I told the concierge that I was looking for a room in the $35 range, he agreed to the lower price without much fuss. It sometimes pays to barter.

— Julie Jensen
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Packing
380277

Dry-cleaning bags stop clothes from wrinkling. Slide each garment into its own bag (leave the hanger at home) and place them flat on your bed, one on top of another. Then carefully fold the entire stack to fit it in your suitcase. Once you get to your hotel, hang everything up as soon as you can. You'll never unpack a suitcase of wrinkled clothes again.

— Claudette Christman
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Loyalty Programs
373250

If you don't have enough frequent-flier miles to get to Europe, use your miles to reach a major airport in the United States and then pay for the overseas flight from there. For a trip to Ireland, my husband and I used Delta SkyMiles to get from Cincinnati to New York's JFK airport and from there took Aer Lingus to Ireland. The Aer Lingus internet special was $267 per person. A Delta flight from Cincinnati to Ireland was $1,150 for two. We saved more than $600.

— Kristin Farrell
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Packing
391271

Instead of packing a complete shaving kit, my husband fills his wide-mouth Nalgene water bottle with items such as razors, spare contact lenses, eyeglasses, toothbrush, and so on. This turned out to be particularly useful on our trip to Costa Rica, where we also took the bottle on our day hikes to volcanoes and the jungle.

— Terry Clemson
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Planning
381259

When I'm planning a trip, I almost always call the hotel concierge before I arrive, and if my hotel doesn't have one, I call a hotel that does. Recently, I asked for advice on what to see since I only had four days in a new city. I told the concierge what I thought I should try to do, and she said I had too many things packed into four days. She gave me a list of hot spots to visit and places to avoid, and even recommended a florist to call on for fresh flowers. With her help, my trip was far more enjoyable than it would have been otherwise.

— Brian Berg
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Hotels
471338

Don't assume a single room costs less than a double one. I booked a hotel in Spain online and noticed that rates were the same whether I booked a single or a double, but the single was much smaller and its bathroom had only a small shower stall and no tub.

— Don Carne
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Planning
386238

Before setting off on one of my many backpacking excursions, I head to Kinko's to rebind my guidebook. I replace the cover with a plain black or navy one. It costs about $6 and allows me to blend in much better while traveling. People see my new book as a journal, not a travel guide that labels me a tourist.

— Michelle Johnson
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Planning
353245

We're active travelers but find guided bike tours from companies like Backroads too expensive. Our advice: After rolling into town, ask at a bike shop for the best routes. Better yet, call or e-mail before you leave home (search the Web). We've found group rides and races this way, and have made a lot of friends. We're instant locals!

— Glenn and Michelle Schultes
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Cruises
376303

Make your cabin homier by packing a small collapsible vase and a bouquet of flowers.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Hotels
435313

A shoe organizer hung over the bathroom door is my solution for hotel-room clutter. The compartments are perfect for stashing everything from room keys and travel documents to toiletries and, of course, shoes. The extra storage space came in especially handy on a recent cruise, when we needed all the room we could get in our tiny cabin.

— Jane Tague
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Family Travel
368262

It can be difficult for parents to find a place to bathe their infant while on vacation. Showers obviously won't work, and the miniscule sinks generally found in hotel bathrooms aren't appropriate either. On our last cruise, we eliminated the whole problem by packing a small, inexpensive inflatable bathtub. (Ours cost only $7.99.) When we arrived, we blew it up and placed it in the bottom of the shower for an instant, safe baby bath.

— Maria Diekema-Zuidema
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Packing
370290

On a trip to Molokai, the plane we were on was small, and luggage was crammed in every which way. At baggage claim, we noticed that someone had packed a bottle of Pine-Sol, and it had broken and leaked everywhere. Now we line our suitcases with garbage bags to protect our clothes—just in case. (It's also smart in case your bag gets left on the tarmac in a downpour.)

— Aaron Lisle
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Technology
387295

When overseas, I carry a "cheat sheet" that includes exchange rates and metric conversions. Currency conversions are available at oanda.com.

— Carol Vela
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Air Travel
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On international flights, I used to fumble through my belongings--often having to retrieve them from the overhead bin--after a flight attendant appeared with customs and immigration forms. (I don't know of many people who have their passport's number and date of issue memorized.) Now I write all that info on the bookmark of whatever I plan to read on the long flight so I don't have to dig out my passport. I can fill out the card quickly--giving me more time to loan my pen to all the people who never seem to carry one.

— Bill Serues
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Hotels
436340

Need a place for a laptop in your hotel room? Take the largest drawer from the bureau and put it upside down on the bed with the drawer front away from you. This creates a perfect-height desk for while you're sitting comfortably on the bed (you can even lean back on pillows), plus there's side space for papers, and the top leans toward you for easy typing or writing.

— Linda Diebold Johnson
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Safety
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I bought several items while in London and noticed when I returned home that my credit card number was printed in full on each sales slip. (In the United States, usually only the last four digits of the number are visible.) Travelers should be careful when using their credit cards overseas--don't leave the sales slips lying around.

— Jackie MacNeil
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Air Travel
369261

Tired of catching colds while traveling? Take along a travel-size package of Clorox wipes. Disinfect the tray table and armrests on the airplane, and the telephone and TV remote in your hotel room.

— Sherill Hacker
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Planning
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Love researching your destination online, but don't know how to organize all those printouts, maps, guidebooks, and tips? I get a 5 x 7" spiral notebook (Mead makes one with a sturdy cover and a pocket insert), a set of index tabs, and some glue. Divide the notebook into sections with the tabs (sights, maps, currency converter, restaurants, etc.). Photocopy—in reduction mode—all the info you want to bring, and glue it into the appropriate section. I leave plenty of pages for my journals. This creates an all-in-one personal guide that you can read again years after your trip!

— Michele Graves
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Cruises
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Choosing a cabin is all about location, location, location. Check the ship's layout online before booking, and opt for a room with passenger floors above and below you. You don't want to try to sleep right under the disco, the casino, or the running track.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Packing
359275

Paper place mats can be useful anywhere there's an outdoor shower. By stepping onto a place mat after a bush shower in Botswana, I managed to keep my feet clean and avoided getting dirt in my clothes.

— Sandy S. Hogan
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Cruises
410317

If your tablecloth is wet at dinner, you should prepare for rough seas. Restaurant staffers have been known to slightly dampen the tablecloth to keep plates and glasses from sliding.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Technology
466641

Just before a trip to Spain, I emailed myself a list of addresses of the friends and family I might want to email while away. At a cybercafe, I was able to simply cut and paste the list into the address line of a new message.

— Rita Young
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Road Trips
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I take each of my grandchildren on a road trip the summer each turns twelve. The trips range in length from two weeks to a month and require careful packing. I've learned to put our clothes and any snack items we'll need in large plastic bins that fit in the back of my minivan. We each bring a small bag and pack it every evening with items we'll need for that night and the next day: no lugging heavy suitcases in and out of motels or hotels.

— Patsy Maddox
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Hotels
424359

Finding the bathroom in the middle of the night in a strange hotel room or cruise-ship cabin can be a challenge. Leaving the bathroom light on seems wasteful and makes the room too bright for sleeping. My husband and I used to travel with a night-light, but we couldn't always find a convenient place to plug it in. We've recently discovered a better solution: plastic light sticks. They come in several glow-in-the- dark colors and are activated by bending the tube into a circle and connecting the ends. Each evening, we hook one of the loops over the bathroom-door handle, where it provides a gentle glow through the night.

— Carol Attar
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Packing
361242

Everyone knows that duct tape is great for helping out in travel emergencies, but no one wants to lug around a bulky roll of the stuff. By wrapping a few feet onto a pencil or ballpoint pen, you'll get a miniature roll that does not take up much in the way of additional space.

— Randy Hartselle
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Solo Travel
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When I travel to a new city, I check with the local running club to see if there are any events planned during my stay. The entry fee is usually donated to a charity, and I get great exercise, meet locals, and tour a part of the city I may not have known about.

— Kelly Christensen
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Packing
374278

I try to avoid checking any luggage, but the airlines are getting stricter every day about the size and weight of carry-ons. So when I pack, I put any important stuff in a plastic bag and place it in a front pocket. If I'm told to check my carry-on when I get to the gate, I can just pull out the smaller bag and board.

— Alena Kerins
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Packing
389303

After looking for years for the perfect toiletries bag and being frustrated by many that were less than ideal, I finally discovered one that is just right: a soft-sided lunch box I bought at the supermarket. It has an outer zipped pocket with small compartments and slots perfect for often-used items like a toothbrush and toothpaste. There's a small removable zipper pouch inside (meant for a small ice pack) for those smaller, hard-to-find items like nail files and pill bottles. The remaining space inside is just right for larger items like shampoo and hand lotion. Other helpful features include both a small handle and shoulder strap and a waterproof, easy-to-clean interior. As an elementary school teacher, I know firsthand that it'll last: It was designed to withstand daily use by kids!

— Jennifer Minton
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Shopping
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It helps to have a calculator if you plan to do a lot of shopping in foreign markets. When you find something you like, hand the seller the calculator and ask him to enter his best price. It's easy to convert the response into dollars so you know what you're spending. If necessary, the calculator can be used to haggle, especially if you don't speak the language.

— Becky Sapp
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Family Travel
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Put toys within kids' reach on road trips. Hang a shoe organizer on the back of the passenger seat so children can keep stuffed animals, books, and games organized in the pockets. Having everything close at hand may help prevent meltdowns along the way.

— Jennifer Casasanto

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