Red Hot Chile Vacations

The top hotels, restaurants and sighseeing in Santiago and beyond.

Not too long ago, Chile was far south of most people's vacation radar. This long, bony finger of a country is a long way away - it stretches more than 2,600 miles from the Atacama Desert all the way down to the icebergs of Antarctica. Though a colorful and fascinating destination, most of what people heard was about its murderous military government. Memo to budget travelers: Put it back on your itinerary. Augusto Pinochet's regime is history and he's spent most of the last year and a half under arrest in London, pending trial in Spain. Meanwhile, Chile has returned to democratic peace and prosperity, its most recent elections held just this past January. It's a safe destination that not only offers some of the most compelling sights but also some of the cheapest prices on the South American continent.

Consider that you can spend a night in Santiago, the sprawling, cosmopolitan capital of nearly 6 million people, for $5 to $15, if you don't require the Ritz. You can gorge on tasty empanadas for less than a Big Mac costs back home. And you can take advantage of South America's flip-flopped seasons: Dig your feet into the white sand and surf of the palm-tree-studded resort city of Vina del Mar when people are shoveling snow back home, or carve up the white powder at renowned ski slopes like Portillo and Valle Nevado when it's sweltering in the States.

First-time visitors will want to spend a few days looking around the museums, monuments, and gracious European-style precincts of Santiago, then, during the summer (December to February), grab a bus to Vina del Mar to wander the beaches and try their luck in a casino for several more days. Those interested in exploring farther afield might consider visiting the glaciers, penguins, and spectacular wilds of Patagonia in the south or the shimmering Atacama Desert in the north.

Chileans like visitors, and they like it when you try speaking Spanish - even if you do it badly. "People from Chile are very warm," says Alejandra Oyarzun, a resident of the island of Chiloe. Despite a prospering economy, the exchange rate favors gringo guests. The U.S. dollar recently sold for some 520 pesos, up from 410 in 1997.

Coming down, going around

While not the cheapest ticket on earth, airfare to Chile is well within the budget traveler's reach. Airline ticket discounters or consolidators that specialize in South America travel offer reasonable prices in peak summer season, December to February. Round-trip flights from New York City cost between $615 and $660; while Los Angeles is only slightly more expensive at around $700. Travelers from Miami get even better rates, around $450. (These prices do not include taxes, which run from $30 to $64. Also, Chile charges U.S. citizens a onetime entrance fee of $45.) Some of the best fares are available from consolidators like World Trade Travel in New York (800/732-7386), Ticketplanet.com in San Francisco (800/799-8888), and Cheap Tickets (800/377-1000). Or fly as a courier; the Air Courier Association (800/282-1202) offers $450 flights to Santiago from Miami.

Once you're here, local carrier LanChile (800/735-5526; www.lanchile.com) offers an air pass-$350 for three domestic flights ($250 if you fly LanChile from the U.S.) - allowing visitors to check out Santiago and environs, bounce north to the fascinating Atacama, and scoot south to Puerto Montt, in the heart of the gorgeous lake district.

Buses are also a popular option. There are dozens of companies that run clean and comfortable vehicles on regular timetables. Buses leave hourly from Santiago to popular destinations like Vina del Mar (the two-hour trip goes for $3.18 each way) and La Serena. Advance booking is suggested only on holidays or for longer trips on a sleeper bus. Among the major companies are Pullman (2/235-8142), Cruz del Sur (2/779-0607), Flota Barrios (2/776-0665), and Tur-Bus (2/776-3690).

Buenas noches

The country is packed with budget accommodations, though options range from a plain room in a local home to posh five-star hotels. Hospedajes and residenciales are the best bargains, with simple digs and shared bathrooms at prices that generally range between $5 and $20 per person. Common in small towns, hospedajes ("oh-speh-DAH-hess") are homes that rent out rooms. Larger cities are more likely to have residenciales, essentially boarding houses with individual rooms and shared baths. Rooms tend to be austere - sometimes with just a couple of twin beds and space to drop your bags - but the beds are comfortable, and some places have communal kitchens. It's perfectly okay to ask to see the room first, and if it's not up to your standards - some are more run-down than others - move on; there are usually plenty of choices. Hospedajes and some residenciales offer a glimpse of how people live and, if you speak Spanish, a chance to discuss Chile with your hosts.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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Packing
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If you have to save receipts while traveling, purchase a plastic coupon holder to help you keep track of them (it'll also protect them). Label each section of the coupon holder by category (hotel, rental car, gas, food, etc.) or by day of the week. The coupon holders are compact and easily fit into a laptop case, purse, or travel bag.

— Ursalene Davis
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Loyalty Programs
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After I was unable to locate any awards seats online for a wide selection of days and routes, I called the airline. An agent told me that the airline's Web site isn't allowed to book awards seats for its partner airlines, but agents can. Within minutes, I had enough options that I found it difficult to make a decision.

— Carol Muth
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Technology
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Before my last long flight, I went to librivox.org and chose a bunch of books, short stories, and poems to download to my iPod--for free. The site has both adult and children's books, and the list is growing. All of the titles are in the public domain, and they're read by volunteers, so there's no question of copyright infringement. Even if you don't own an iPod, you can download them to your computer and burn them onto a CD.

— Diane Bowman
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Air Travel
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If you've accumulated more souvenirs on your trip than you can carry, drive your rental car up to curbside check-in, then return the vehicle and come back on the shuttle bus with only your carry-on. This only works if there's no check-in line, but can save dragging your luggage onto the shuttle bus, across parking lots, etc.

— Robyn Volkening
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Safety
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I agree that the anti-seasickness medication for cruises, Bonine, is excellent and effective; but there is a budget way to buy it. The primary ingredient in Bonine is meclizine (25 mg). While a package of eight Bonine tablets costs just over $4 at a drugstore, you can buy a bottle of 100 generic meclizine (25 mg) for about the same price. This is an over-the-counter (no prescription needed) item, but you usually have to ask for it at the pharmacy counter.

— Lila Held
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Car Rentals
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Don't rush off the car-rental lot. Before driving away--especially in foreign countries where the controls might be unfamiliar-test the headlights and brakes, and look for the extra tire and changing tools. I once had a rental with malfunctioning brakes in Mexico and caused a minor accident--one that could certainly have been avoided had I checked them properly before leaving the lot.

— Doreen Stelton
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Cruises
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If you even manage to get a cell signal while at sea, your roaming charges will be outrageous. To communicate with your cabinmates, leave Post-it Notes on your door detailing where you'll be throughout the day.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Dining
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While traveling abroad, I've frequently encountered some appallingly bad (and often very funny) English translations of menus. In those cases, I simply offered to clean up the translations in exchange for a meal. This has worked quite a few times.

— William Boyle
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Cruises
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If you go directly from the air-conditioned ship out onto the open-air deck (which is usually warmer and more humid in most cruise destinations), your camera's lens is likely to fog up. Warm the camera with your cabin's hairdryer on a low setting or briefly leave it out on your balcony so it can acclimate to the weather.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Air Travel
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Check fares periodically after booking your airfare. The airline may have a sale, and buying new tickets could save you money, even after you pay the change penalty. My wife and I used Travelocity's Fare Finder to pocket $187 each on a recent trip from Seattle to New York City, simply by re-ticketing.

— Doug Rittenhouse
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Technology
417279

When you go to a convention or trade show, don't assume that the official prices at recommended hotels are the best you can do. Go to the hotel Web site. I recently got an AARP rate at a major hotel that was 30 percent below the special price offered through the tradeshow sponsors. AAA discounts often work, too.

— Duane Dahl
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Museums
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If your travels take you to U.S. cities large enough to have museums, zoos, and/or botanical gardens, consider buying a membership in your home city's counterpart. Many have reciprocal privileges with institutions elsewhere. A membership at Chicago's Lincoln Park Zoo, for example, lets you see the National Zoo in Washington, D.C., and zoos in Los Angeles, Des Moines, and Jackson, Mississippi, at no charge.

— Alice M. Solovy
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Hotels
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If you plan to leave a gratuity for hotel staff, follow our friend Phil's good advice: Give it at the beginning of your vacation, not at the end. He introduces himself to the housekeepers early in the trip and hands them a nice tip. Guess who always has plenty of coffee and fresh towels?

— Lou Stover
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Photography
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Carry a Polaroid camera when traveling to developing countries. In Cambodia, several village children gathered around us, posed enthusiastically for pictures, and were fascinated by their images in our digital camera. We wanted to send them the pictures, but they were unable to tell us their address. Polaroids would have solved the problem!

— Cynda Perun
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Packing
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I've always traveled with a mini sewing kit in case I needed to sew on a loose button (or replace one).Now when I buy clothes, I just barely touch the end of a tube of Krazy Glue to the front of my buttons. Because they're covered by the glue, the threads don't fray as easily. No more lost buttons!

— Calvin Girvin
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Planning
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If you book a package over the Internet, print out all the details of what's included and take it with you. When a hotel desk clerk in Paris said that the breakfast buffet we had enjoyed for the previous seven mornings was not included in our package, I was able to show him the printouts and prove him wrong. He apologized profusely and wiped the breakfast charges from our bill.

— John Lavelle
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Planning
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Play Let's Make a Deal when you're shopping for vacations at travel shows or expos. Go armed with your own research and a credit card.(You're likely to get a better price if you know what the vacation is worth, and if you're willing to buy it on the spot.) I picked two Caribbean cruises and headed to the New York Times Travel Show. After haggling with the competing cruise lines, I was offered the first cruise for $50 less than the best price I'd found online, and they threw in free trip insurance. In the end, I chose the second—$30 off with a free upgrade to a balcony stateroom—and truly got a bargain.

— Michael Marcarello
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Family Travel
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At a theme park, tie a brightly colored scarf to the handle of your stroller before you enter a ride. When you return, you'll be able to quickly pick out your stroller from a sea of look-alikes.

— Katrina Shelton
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Air Travel
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Just before I go through airport security, to save time and to avoid leaving something important behind, I collect all loose items--change, money clip, belt buckle, pens--in a large Ziploc bag. I send the bag through the X-ray machine with the rest of my luggage. After picking it up at the other end, I put the things back in place and either toss the bag or keep it for the return trip.

— Rodrigo Fernandez
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Technology
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Priceline was a total pig in a poke for me, so I never used the web site, until I found out about biddingfortravel.com. This helpful Web site gives potential bidders an idea of prices that are being accepted (and declined) on priceline.com for particular dates and properties (or airfares or car rentals). I got the Hyatt Regency Miami for $35 per night because of this!

— C. Sue Mecham
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Some people think that traveler's checks aren't necessary anymore, but they really can be useful in a variety of situations. My ATM card wouldn't work on Easter Island, where most restaurants did not accept credit cards and wanted to be paid in pesos. Luckily, our hotel cashed my traveler's checks and gave me the pesos I needed. On Dominica, my purse was stolen. But because I had traveler's checks stashed away in my luggage, the vacation wasn't ruined. I always travel with what I call the "trusty four": American dollars (lots of ones and fives divided up and hidden in several locations), traveler's checks, an ATM card, and a credit card.

— Jeanette Cantwell
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Transportation
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Driving around Italy last summer, my husband and I found that even the most detailed maps left us scratching our heads in confusion. Desperate and lost, we decided to follow a tour bus. Guess what? It got us exactly where we wanted to go.

— Cindy Marcus
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Planning
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Turn off your fridge's icemaker before you leave home. And remember to empty the ice cube bin. The power was out for several days while I was away recently. When I got back, the melted ice had refrozen throughout the freezer compartment. It took forever to clean up.

— Mary C. Clements
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Air Travel
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Even if you're not hungry when the flight attendant comes around with the snack service, take it for later. Although peanuts may not look appetizing at 7 a.m., they will look good later if you have nothing better to eat. And it saves you from picking up something at expensive airport shops.

— Fran Rifkin
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Cruises
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If your tablecloth is wet at dinner, you should prepare for rough seas. Restaurant staffers have been known to slightly dampen the tablecloth to keep plates and glasses from sliding.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Shopping
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Consider asking your driver or tour guide to haggle on your behalf at bazaars and souks. (But don't let them lead you to places where they might have a connection to the shopkeeper.) The money you tip them will usually be less than the markup on prices for tourists.

— Rami Aboumahadi
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Planning
550593

Before leaving on a trip, I print the names and addresses of my friends and family onto clear mailing labels. (All standard word-processing programs have preset templates for creating address labels.) Then, I take the address-label sheets with me on vacation. Since the addresses are already saved in my computer and the mailing labels are adhesive, addressing postcards has become really easy.

— Lisa Higgins
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Packing
364255

Anyone traveling with multiple electronic devices (laptops, PDAs, cell phones, digital cameras, MP3 players) can easily confuse all the accessories that come with them. To keep all battery chargers, USB cables, media cards, and owner's manuals safe, dry, and organized, place them in individual Ziploc bags. You can put a label inside the bag to identify the contents, and one label wrapped around each cable to identify it.

— Alyse Liebowitz
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Planning
372266

Sending a flat-rate Priority Mail box costs $8.10, no matter how much it weighs or which state it's going to. After accumulating too much stuff to fit in my suitcase during a trip to Atlanta, I filled a box with laundry, souvenirs, and gifts for my grandchildren, and mailed it to my home address.

— Eleanor Waterhouse
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Planning
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My husband and I create personal cards (like business cards) before we leave home. We put our name, address, phone, and email address on them, as well as a picture of us. How many people have gotten home from a trip, looked at a slip of paper with a name and address, and wondered, Who is this? The picture helps link a name to a face.

— Susan Fornoff

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