Andalusia

Lodgings

Open to all ages, the three-story, modernized Albergue Juvenil C¢rdoba (Plaza Jud Levi, 29-01-66, fax 29-05-00, inturjoven.com), in the Juder¡a several streets west of the Mezquita, is one of the most attractive hostels of Andalusia's larger cities, with immaculate whitewashed doubles from 2,541 ptas ($13) per person - 2,862 ptas ($15) from April through October - that are simple but clean, and bath- and A/C-equipped. Full meals start at 750 ptas ($3.80). For more in the way of amenities, check out the Bueno-family-run Hotel Los Patios (Calle Cardenal Herrero 14, 47-83-40, fax 48-69-66), opened in September 2000 right near the entrance to the Mezquita. Its 24 rooms sport not only satellite TV, A/C, phones, and private baths, but neat little details such as Mozarabic-style fixtures; doubles run 9,095 ptas ($46) in high season and 7,223 ptas ($37) in low. Or, a short stroll east of the great mosque, maximize your options at the nine-year-old Hostal Maestre (Calle Romero Barros 4/6, at Calle San Fernando, 47-24-10, fax 47-53-95), whose two rambling, homey, but spick-and-span town houses offer 24 plainish hostel rooms (double 5,000 ptas/$25); 26 slightly more elaborate, marble-tiled hotel rooms (6,000 ptas/$31 in low season, 7,000 ptas/$36 in high); and seven kitchen-equipped apartments (7,500 ptas/$39 for two people, 8,500 ptas/$44 for four). Throughout, you generally get TVs, air-conditioning, and private baths, but no phones. Overall, the Maestre's a sweet find-truly close to staying in a local's home.

Dining

For a down-home round of tapas (from 225 ptas/$1.15 or entree-size portions from 650 ptas/$3.35), start at the 144-year-old Taberna Sneca (Calle San Eulogio 4, behind the fascinating archeological museum), currently run by Jos and Salva, a young gay couple (yep, smack in conservative ol' Cordoba). Amid its battered white walls, ancient wood sherry barrels, old black-and-white photos of the city, and intensely local crowd, try local specialties like salmorejo cordobes (a delectable mix of bread crumbs, garlic, tomato, and olive oil, topped with hard-boiled egg slices and Serrano ham). At Los Patios, attached to the eponymous hotel, with seating in a plant-bedecked courtyard or inside under centuries-old arches, breakfast starts at 345 ptas ($1.75) with multicourse lunchtime or dinner menus, including drink and dessert, costing upwards of 1,275 ptas ($6.50). Even more atmospheric: the Meson de la Luna (Calleja de la Luna), a former cockfighting ring inside the old city walls, with menus from 1,600 ptas ($8.15), and the Meson Muralla right across "Moon Street" (menus 900 ptas/$4.60). East of the Mezquita, the rather more upscale Bodegas Campos (Calle de los Lineros 32) nonetheless offers reasonably priced tapas (775 ptas/$4) and a bargain lunchtime menu for 1,000 ptas ($5.15) weekdays and 1,500 ptas ($7.75) weekends; it might feature the house specialty, patatas guisadas, a savory potato stew. Finally, the Caballo Rojo (Calle Cardenal Herrero 28), across from the Mezquita, is considered another of the best eateries in town, with lots of local specialties - including resurrections from Moorish times - and a simpatico selection of entree choices under $10.

More information

Info: The Spanish National Tourist Office has branches in Chicago (312/642-1992), Los Angeles (323/658-7188), Miami (305/358-1992), and New York (212/265-8822), which provide helpful advice and literature; visit online at okspain.org.

Other good Web sites devoted to the region: andalucia.org/enghomepage.jsp, andalucia.com/home.htm, and altur.com/eng. Individual city sites worth checking out include sevilla.org, sevilla5.com, http://granada.spain.trip tool.com, aboutgranada.com, and http://cordoba.travelnow-spain.com.

Packages: For an alternative to doing it on your own, consider the pack of possibilities - escorted and not, in all price ranges - from tour operators such as Abreu (800/223-1580, abreu-tours.com), Central Holidays (800/935-5000, centralholidays.com), Gate1 (800/682-3333, gate1travel.com), the Internet-only go-today.com, seniors-oriented Grand Circle Travel (800/248-3737, gct.com), and Petrabax (800/634-1188, petrabax.com). Also, from May through December, California-based Adventure Center (800/228-8747, adventurecenter.com) sells hiking itineraries (including most meals and all accommodations) through Andalusia; one week from $550, two from $690, land-only.

Notes: Dollar amounts based on exchange rate of 197 pesetas/1.18 euros to US$1; prices include 7 percent IVA tax. Phone codes for the numbers in this article: Granada 958, Seville 95, Cordoba 957; to call from U.S., first dial 011-34; from elsewhere in Spain, first dial 0.