Eat Like a Local: Hawaii's Big Island

Fish tacos and guava wine: the best food on the Big Island.

Vendors selling rambutan at the Hilo Farmers Market (Snygg Mas)

What you'll find in this story: Hawaii food guide, Big Island local suggestions, Hawaiian restaurants, local Hawaii favorites, Kailua-Kona restaurants, Waimea restaurants, Hilo restaurants

Kailua-Kona: Between mile markers 103 and 104 on Mamalahoa Highway, just south of Kona, is one of the finest markets in Hawaii, the South Kona Fruit Stand. Juicy honey bell tangelos, ulu (breadfruit), Tahitian limes, and cherimoya and guanabana (both in the custard-apple family) line the tables -- and much of what's here is thrillingly unidentifiable. Sweet strawberry papayas (from 75¢ per pound) are hefty in your hand, and a spoonful of their bright pink flesh satisfies the most powerful sugar craving. The produce comes chiefly from the six acres of organic farms next door, where tiny geckos dart around searching for insects. The best treat for the car ride is a five-ounce bag of chocolate-covered caramel macadamia nuts ($6).

At lunchtime in the town of Kailua-Kona, surfers line up in front of Kona Tacos, in the hot asphalt parking lot of the Lanihau Shopping Center. Flaky, flavorful fish tacos ($6.75) and kalua pork burritos ($6.50) are served with fresh pico de gallo and tomatillo salsa. Next door, Tropical Island Flavors supplies a frosty shave ice follow-up (from $2.50). More than a mere snow cone, a Hawaiian shave ice is covered in sweet red azuki beans, which lend a chewy, grainy texture and add complexity. You can order one without beans, but you'll be missing out. These concoctions, which also use syrups flavored like coconut, mango, and lihing mui (preserved plum with a piquantly sour kick), embody the true meaning of ono -- Hawaiian for "delicious."

Waimea: Inside and outside of Hawaii, Daniel Thiebaut is known as one of the best restaurants on the Big Island -- with a price tag to match. But on Sundays, this elegant French-Asian Waimea institution, housed in a restored, late 19th-century general store, has an excellent brunch deal from 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. The buffet spread includes an omelette bar, fresh poke and sushi, fluffy pastries, and island fruit such as pineapple, all for $16 (a pretty big steal, considering that an average dinner entrée at Daniel Thiebaut costs about $27). Live acoustic Hawaiian music, art, and antique signs lend a relaxed, plantation feel.

Hilo: Adjacent to Suison, Hilo's waterfront fish market, Nihon Restaurant and Cultural Center is the place for fresh-off-the-boat seafood, including ahi tuna. A neighborhood favorite for its sushi and other Japanese dishes -- the chef's macadamia-nut roll ($9) and beautifully browned butterfish misoyaki ($17) are standouts -- the restaurant overlooks Queen Liliuokalani Gardens and Hilo Bay, with impressive views of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. Combination lunches are $13, and full-dinner specials are around $16.

In a historic row of buildings, Naung Mai Thai Kitchen is a tiny, two-room Thai restaurant with bright pink walls, orchids on every table, and a patio. Naung Mai specializes in wake-your-mouth-up curries -- red, yellow, green, and Massaman (from $8) -- and chef Bua on-Mai's powerfully fragrant tom yum soup ($8) is in a class of its own. If you can handle it, ask for your curry Thai-hot. All the flavors are guaranteed to pop.

The 17-year-old Hilo Farmers Market is held every Wednesday and Saturday, "from dawn till it's gone," in the city's historic downtown. This is the best spot to sample all kinds of tropical foods. More than 175 stalls showcase exotic treats such as cherimoya, jaboticaba berries, jackfruit, lychee, papaya, rambutan, fresh-baked coconut pastries, and dried fish. Not all of it is local: One stall is known for its Peruvian tamales. The price range for most items is from 50¢ per pound (for apple bananas, juicy strawberry papaya, and pocket-size fruits that are sweeter and firmer than the bananas you'll find on the mainland) to $2 per pound (for pomegranates).

Forget about Kona coffee. Java from the east side of the Big Island is coming into its own. Stop by Hilo Coffee Mill for a taste -- and cofounder Kathy Patton's private tutorial on coffee-roasting and brewing -- and leave with a few fragrant bags of fresh-roasted beans for when you're back home. There's always a pot brewing with the roast of the day. The Mill's 100 percent Puna rain forest coffee is the best on the east side -- and at $17 per pound, it's the more caffeinated bang for your buck when compared to the west side's Kona peaberry, which costs about double. Best of all, Patton welcomes visitors to try a cup, or two, for free before making a purchase.

Volcano: Ever had wine made from Hawaiian guavas or honey extracted from the blossoms of the macadamia tree? Step up to the koa wood bar and sample unique varietals at Volcano Winery, the Big Island's only commercial vintner. The Symphony Mele, a crisp white from a hybrid grape created by the Department of Viticulture and Enology at the University of California, Davis, costs $14 per bottle; it won a gold medal at the 2004 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition. Fruit lovers will want to pick up the golden Hawaiian Guava Wine ($16), one of the winery's most popular sellers; it's made from a blend of fermented yellow guava puree and white French Columbard grapes from Napa. All of the tropical fruits used are grown on the Big Island. Taste all six of Volcano's wines for free.

  • South Kona Fruit Stand 84-4770 Mamalahoa Hwy., Captain Cook, 808/328-8547
  • Kona Tacos 75-5595 Palani Rd., Kailua-Kona, 808/329-9049
  • Tropical Island Flavors Kailua-Kona, 808/937-5570
  • Daniel Thiebaut 65-1259 Kawaihae Rd., Waimea, 808/887-2200
  • Nihon Restaurant 123 Lihiwai St., Hilo, 808/969-1133
  • Naung Mai 86 Kilauea Ave., Hilo, 808/934-7540
  • Hilo Farmers Market Mamo St. and Kamehameha Ave., Hilo, 808/933-1000
  • Hilo Coffee Mill 16-643 Kipimana St., Suite #1, Kea'au, 808/982-5551
  • Volcano Winery 35 Pii Mauna Dr., Volcano, 808/967-7772

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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If you're on a road trip with young children and you're looking for a place to let them blow off some steam, check out the playgrounds at local elementary schools. They almost always have equipment that your children will love to explore. It will also give everyone in the family a welcome chance to stretch their legs.

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My friends and I contribute to a kitty and use that money to pay for group expenses such as taxis and meals. It saves us from having to figure out each person's share at every stop. At the end of the trip, we split what remains.

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When carrying around my small umbrella, I put it in a Ziploc bag. After using it, I can store the umbrella, back inside the Ziploc, in my shoulder bag without getting everything else soaked.

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Priceline was a total pig in a poke for me, so I never used the web site, until I found out about biddingfortravel.com. This helpful Web site gives potential bidders an idea of prices that are being accepted (and declined) on priceline.com for particular dates and properties (or airfares or car rentals). I got the Hyatt Regency Miami for $35 per night because of this!

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If you're traveling solo and your room has a double bed, sleep on the side farthest from the phone. It's slept on less frequently and is therefore more comfortable.

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When I'm on the road, I often have to use the hotel iron before heading out to business meetings. But getting water into the iron can be a hassle--most irons won't fit under the sink faucet, and using a glass to pour water into the tiny hole is nearly impossible without spilling everywhere. There's an easy solution: Use the carafe from the coffee maker. Just be sure the carafe is clean, or you could end up with coffee stains on your clothes.

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If you plan to travel to a less-developed country, pack an extra suitcase with hand-me-downs of all sizes. Housekeepers and other resort workers make so little money that the clothes are greatly appreciated. On your way home, you can use that empty suitcase for souvenirs.

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If your travels take you to U.S. cities large enough to have museums, zoos, and/or botanical gardens, consider buying a membership in your home city's counterpart. Many have reciprocal privileges with institutions elsewhere. A membership at Chicago's Lincoln Park Zoo, for example, lets you see the National Zoo in Washington, D.C., and zoos in Los Angeles, Des Moines, and Jackson, Mississippi, at no charge.

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Be certain to have enough blank pages in your passport. Someone I know had a terrible time getting per- mission to board a flight from Zambia to South Africa because she didn't have the two blank passport pages required to enter South Africa. Thank goodness my husband had read about the requirement. Before the trip, we sent our passports to the center in Charleston and had extra pages added at no charge.

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Before exchanging foreign currency at the airport, find out if there's a departure tax. At the Bangkok airport, we were very upset- as were travelers around us- to find we had to pay a fee before continuing to our gate. Unfortunately, by that point everyone had cashed in their baht, so the options were a conveniently located ATM, a credit card, or an exchange booth with notably poor rates. When we described this incident to friends, they told us of a similar experience when trying to leave the Dominican Republic.

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— Lou Stover
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I live in coastal Florida, where the electricity sometimes goes out during violent storms. Before a trip, I place a few ice cubes in a plastic bag and put the bag in the freezer. If the ice has melted and refrozen by the time I get home, I'll know we've had a power outage and that any food left in the refrigerator may be unsafe to consume.

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I always snap photographs of scenic highway markers, park entrance signs, and the like. These informational photos are put into our album to help identify the many sites that we visited.

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I have the words "hotel" and "taxi" on my cell- phone speed dial. On a trip, I change the numbers, but leave the preprogrammed titles the same--instant access and no more little slips of paper everywhere.

— Isabel Burk
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It's often cheaper to buy a ticket to London and then fly onward within Europe via a regional low cost airline. Last summer, my husband and I bought consolidator tickets to London for $397. From there, we flew EasyJet to Nice for $72. The total cost was $469—much less than flying directly to Nice, plus we enjoyed a stopover in London.

— Jasmine Tata
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When looking for the lowest airfare, I've found that in some cases the best rates pop up when searching for one traveler instead of two. Recently, I wanted to buy one-way tickets from New York to Orlando for two people and came up with $87 per person. But when I selected one traveler, the fare dropped to $72.

— Yoshi Matsuda
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Batteries for cameras, laptops, cell phones, and other devices can be charged at night in your hotel room. But if you're doing a lot of driving, you might want to buy an inverter to charge them while on the road. Inverters (which plug into the car's cigarette lighter) are small, inexpensive, and can be purchased at auto-supply, variety, or electronics stores.

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