MY HOMETOWN

I Was From Orange County Back When the O.C. Wasn't Cool

When I went to college on the East Coast, people asked why I'd left glorious southern California. Were they kidding? I couldn't wait

Lunch at T.K. Burger, in Huntington Beach

Lunch at T.K. Burger, in Huntington Beach

(Eden Batki)

What you'll find in this story: Orange County restaurants, Southern California culture, Orange County attractions, Orange County neighborhoods, Orange County beaches

It was drilled into me at an early age: Orange County was an embarrassing place to be from. Radio stations in L.A., our neighbor to the north, were constantly teasing us about our conservative reputation, mocking life "behind the Orange Curtain." And as we all know, adolescent shame has a vicious sting.

So imagine my surprise when Orange County became synonymous with California cool, thanks to the teenage soap opera The O.C. (By the way, we never called it that.) And while I used to find it unfathomable that anyone would want to vacation there, once I got some distance--literally and figuratively--I came around. Or maybe I just grew up.

In fact, even I now vacation there! A few years ago, my parents retired to the Palm Springs area, but they couldn't totally let go of Orange County--or bear the desert summer. Each August, they rent a house for two weeks on Balboa Island, in Newport Bay. It's the only time besides Christmas that the whole family gets together. My sister and brother-in-law bring their kids, Austin and Allison; last summer I brought my partner, Adam.

The family-friendly vibe of Balboa has little in common with the glossy angst of The O.C., which is set in Newport Beach but filmed near L.A. In Balboa, we play Skee-Ball and drive bumper cars at the Fun Zone, a tiny amusement park that's on the Balboa Peninsula, a five-minute ferry ride from Balboa Island. We rent a small Duffy electric boat--it looks kind of like a mini-trolley--and toodle around the bay, gawking at the fancy houses. We eat breakfast at the Galley Café, a coffee shop near the marina, and then check out the sailboats. We go to the tide pools at Little Corona beach in Corona del Mar, one of Newport Beach's fancier neighborhoods. (A gem of a beach, it's hard to find but worth it: If you're heading south on Pacific Coast Highway, turn right on Poppy Avenue and take it to the end.) I won't forget the first time Austin saw a sea cucumber, or when we took Allison last year, and Austin got to play the expert. After dinner, we go for Balboa bars--vanilla ice cream bars dipped in chocolate and rolled in your choice of toppings--at Dad's on Balboa's main drag.

I used to sleep in the house, sharing a room with my nephew. I adore him, but I'm happy to have graduated to the Marriott Courtyard in Irvine. It's 20 minutes away, but that's OK. You know you've grown up--and old--when you find yourself impressed by the fact that the hotel ponies up free laundry detergent. And fabric softener!

The success of The O.C. spawned a vapid reality show on MTV called Laguna Beach, whose namesake is one town to the south.

Laguna used to be known for attracting creative misfits--Hollywood weekenders, artists, gay people--but now it's not all that different from Newport. It does have geography on its side: It's set on cliffs overlooking the Pacific and is astoundingly beautiful, if you can remain in denial about the traffic. Fortuitously, Laguna is the most strollable of O.C. towns (the only strollable one, to be honest). I never surfed as a kid, having watched Jaws at precisely the wrong age, but like any good Californian I dig surf style. The best merchandise--T-shirts, flip-flops, swim trunks, etc.--is at the Thalia Street Surf Shop. Last summer, I bought a fake road sign with the words hang loose and the thumb/pinkie hand gesture; it hangs in my office. Be sure to poke around the corner. Thalia Street dead-ends at a long wooden staircase that leads to the beach. You stare down into the blue-green water, where surfers bob.

Just north of Laguna is Crystal Cove State Park, which used to be totally undeveloped. It was so perfect, so golden--all cliffs and trails and three miles of empty beach. The area around it has since been attacked by what I call viral housing--you can practically see it replicate up the hillside before your eyes--but it's still a great place for a walk. There are 46 houses right on the sand; the historic district was state land leased long-term to individuals. The leases expired in 2001, and the state will soon be renting out 22 of them on a nightly basis, perhaps as soon as this fall. I can't think of another place in California I'd rather be.

You know you've really grown up when you start coveting real estate.

Amazingly, the Orange County I experience now isn't a nostalgia trip for me: I didn't spend much time in Balboa or Laguna as a kid. I didn't even hang out much in downtown Huntington Beach, my hometown, which at the time was a bit seedy. Since then, most of Main Street has been bulldozed and replaced with a big strip mall (unlike quaint Seal Beach, one town north). A few fun places remain, as I found out when I was there last year for my friend Beth's wedding. The Sugar Shack still serves excellent breakfast burritos, and a block south on Pacific Coast Highway, T.K. Burger (short for The Kind Burger) could almost give In-N-Out a run for its money. It feels the way a beach burger joint should, with skate rock blaring and surfers loitering. I still laugh every time I'm on the PCH, because one time the New Yorker in me forgot where I was, and I literally got pulled over by the cops for jaywalking.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Shopping
366263

When you're shopping for alcohol on any Caribbean island, ask if there's a Kmart nearby. Often the dis- counter is a short distance from the docks where the cruise ships tie up and has an extensive selection at prices lower than the liquor stores on the main drag. While you're there, pick up that extra roll of film or the sunscreen you forgot.

— Andrea Mansfield
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Packing
484613

Every year, I get address labels from numerous charitable organizations. I keep them with me when traveling because it's the quickest way to provide my address to new friends, enter prize drawings at shops, sign guest books, etc. It's not only efficient; it can also help spread the word about worthwhile charities.

— Carole Wilk
Tagged
Hotels
415339

Before you go to sleep, check to see if a previous hotel guest left the alarm clock on. I've been awakened before 7 a.m. twice in the last couple of months by alarms I did not set. (Make sure the clock shows the right time, too!)

— Rachele Helphill
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Family Travel
360265

When traveling with my kids, I bring a Ziploc bag that includes four things: Benadryl, children's ibuprofen, one of those little medicine cups, and a thermometer. This all-purpose kit will help with minor ailments, or treat a more serious flu until you can get to a doctor. Best of all, it saves Dad from driving around at 2 a.m. looking for an all-night pharmacy.

— Heather Crow
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Air Travel
345255

Don't settle for the first answer to your travel question. If you need flight information, it's a good idea to phone the airline more than once and ask the same question. Recently, I wanted to see if I could fly standby on an earlier flight the same day. The first time I called, I was told that the earlier flight was booked. The second time, however, an agent said there were in fact seats available, and I could certainly fly standby. In the end, not only was I able to get on the flight, but I was upgraded to first class.

— Lynn Babcock
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Air Travel
360277

Treat yourself to a golf-ball foot massage. During a long flight, or afterward in your hotel room, take off your shoes, put a golf ball on the floor, and roll it under your foot. It's a great stress reliever. Practice a bit before you try it on a plane, so that your ball doesn't go rolling down the cabin, tripping up unsuspecting passengers.

— Dawn Yadlosky
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Packing
372259

A beach ball can replace many expensive in-flight gadgets. Depending on how much you inflate it, the ball can function as a very comfortable footrest, a back support, or a lap pillow to support your book.

— Dorothy Vincent
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Air Travel
385278

Before you head to the airport, make a list of all the items in your checked luggage that would be prohibited in your carry-on. If an item (such as a knife for a picnic) makes its way into your purse or daypack during your travels, it should be accounted for when repacking and put into the checked piece to avoid hassles at airport security.

— Nina Gormley
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Planning
376291

Don't save the best for the last day. If you wait until the end of your trip for "must-do" activities, you won't be able to reschedule if something unforeseen happens. I planned a snorkeling excursion for my final day in San Diego, but the waters were too rough, and the trip had to be canceled.

— Melissa Coplak
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Packing
361242

Everyone knows that duct tape is great for helping out in travel emergencies, but no one wants to lug around a bulky roll of the stuff. By wrapping a few feet onto a pencil or ballpoint pen, you'll get a miniature roll that does not take up much in the way of additional space.

— Randy Hartselle
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Packing
361297

I find that hotel bathrooms rarely have enough hangers and hooks for clothes and wet towels, so I always bring a few snap-lock suction hooks. (They function better than regular suction hooks because they're more secure and are therefore able to hold heavier items.) It's always nice to have a place to hang a bathrobe.

— Laura Tillman
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Hotels
438320

On the final day of a recent Caribbean vacation, I tried to arrange for a late checkout, but was told it wasn't possible. The hotel offered me the use of a day room; it would have been perfect, but it was being used by other guests, and there was a very long wait for the shower. I went back upstairs and saw that someone was just about to clean my room. I told the housekeeper that I understood she had to do her job, but I wondered if I could I take a quick shower first. She offered to clean next door while I took my shower. I tipped her $10 and then left for the airport.

— Michele Chico
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Air Travel
369261

Tired of catching colds while traveling? Take along a travel-size package of Clorox wipes. Disinfect the tray table and armrests on the airplane, and the telephone and TV remote in your hotel room.

— Sherill Hacker
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Family Travel
370273

When traveling with your kids, give each child his or her own small carry-on bag. Fill it with new, surprise treats to occupy the downtime--layovers, long flights, time in hotels--as well as a few familiar items from home. Include a notebook and encourage your child to keep a travel diary.

— Joan White
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Cruises
519601

Public libraries in the ports of Alaska are a tremendous money-saver. Who wants to pay $5 a minute for Internet use from a cruise ship? During a port stop on a recent Alaska cruise, we found a city library that offered free Internet use for 15 to 30 minutes. Our only cost was a short wait in line.

— Gail G. Jenkins
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Cruises
394316

If the porters haven't delivered your luggage to your door by the first night of the cruise, check what our experts call the "naughty room." Security will store any bags containing contraband (like candles, alcohol, or coffeemakers) in this centralized location until you come claim it. You'll be able to pick up your bag on the first night, but banned items will not be returned until the end of the trip.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Car Rentals
352270

Whenever I know I'll be renting a car, I pack a couple of folded paper towels and two small spray bottles--one filled with window cleaner and the other with Rain-X, a product that repels raindrops. It's hard enough driving an unfamiliar car in an unfamiliar location. At least with a clean windshield I'm able to see properly, no matter the weather.

— Ed Rainer
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Cruises
395336

The couple of hangers provided on cruise ships aren't enough for weeklong trips. So I save wire hangers from the dry cleaner and slip a few into our suitcases while packing. I then leave them behind for the next passenger.

— Wendy Maloney
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Safety
420306

I don't go anywhere without individual packets of antibacterial wipes. I slip some in my carry-on, daypack, and shirt pocket. They're very convenient when you can't find any running water with which to wash your hands. And because they're antibacterial, they're also great for cleaning cuts, and the alcohol from the wipes helps stop the itching when you rub them on insect bites.

— Lawrence Brenner
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Packing
413295

Travel soap dishes--the colorful plastic ones that have hinged lids--stop small, fragile items from getting damaged or lost in your bags. I can easily label and use them again and again and again.

— Revon Wolf
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Packing
372260

Restrooms abroad rarely have hooks on stall doors. Our solution: Pack a small S hook in your shoulder bag and make use of a hole in the wall, a pipe, etc., to hang purses, jackets, or anything else you want to keep off the floor. S hooks can be found in most hardware stores, near the screws and bolts.

— Arthur and Marie Lloyd
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Cruises
373323

If you go directly from the air-conditioned ship out onto the open-air deck (which is usually warmer and more humid in most cruise destinations), your camera's lens is likely to fog up. Warm the camera with your cabin's hairdryer on a low setting or briefly leave it out on your balcony so it can acclimate to the weather.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Transportation
361252

In Europe, my husband and I like to use public transportation. As a result, we frequently find ourselves studying itineraries displayed on train station walls, trying to read schedules posted at bus stops, or staring at kiosk-size town maps. On our last trip, my husband snapped digital photographs of those things. We were able to take the map or itinerary with us and could refer to it as needed by using the zoom feature.

— Anne Supsic
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Photography
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Carry a Polaroid camera when traveling to developing countries. In Cambodia, several village children gathered around us, posed enthusiastically for pictures, and were fascinated by their images in our digital camera. We wanted to send them the pictures, but they were unable to tell us their address. Polaroids would have solved the problem!

— Cynda Perun
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Planning
376250

If you're packing a lunch to eat later in the day, freeze a 16-ounce water bottle and pack it, along with yogurt, cottage cheese, a ham sandwich, or whatever in a light- weight, insulated bag. Your snacks will remain cold, and you can drink the water.

— Jackie McGraw
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Loyalty Programs
370277

Before using frequent-flier miles, investigate how much the flight actually costs. For example, it takes at least 25,000 miles per person to travel from Boston to Alaska. The same flight cost us $288. After paying for our tickets, we received enough additional miles to travel for free to Sweden instead of Alaska!

— Bobby Pellant
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Packing
370290

On a trip to Molokai, the plane we were on was small, and luggage was crammed in every which way. At baggage claim, we noticed that someone had packed a bottle of Pine-Sol, and it had broken and leaked everywhere. Now we line our suitcases with garbage bags to protect our clothes—just in case. (It's also smart in case your bag gets left on the tarmac in a downpour.)

— Aaron Lisle
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Cruises
417330

Here's an important tip for cruising in winter: Fly into the port a day or two before your ship is scheduled to depart. We booked a Costa Rican cruise but were stuck in New York, where all flights out of JFK airport were canceled. Itineraries that include stops in places with airports can allow people to catch up. Ours didn't.

— Anne Schweisguth
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Shopping
378286

A company called Orikaso makes brightly colored polypropylene sheets that can be folded--kind of like origami--to form a dish, bowl, or cup. The sheets are lightweight and reusable, and you simply flatten them when you're finished. We found ours at a sporting goods store, but you can also buy them online. Check orikaso.com for retailers.

— Susan Day
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Packing
389275

When carrying around my small umbrella, I put it in a Ziploc bag. After using it, I can store the umbrella, back inside the Ziploc, in my shoulder bag without getting everything else soaked.

— Sandy Sussman

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