TRIP COACH

A Month in New Zealand With No Set Plans

A couple wants to see the country's dramatic landscapes, Maori culture, and...penguins and Art Deco architecture?

Milford Sound, one of the world's wonders (David Wall / Tourism New Zealand)

What you'll find in this story: New Zealand travel, New Zealand transportation, New Zealand attractions, New Zealand culture, New Zealand destinations, New Zealand sites

Six years ago, Jeff and Linda Lowe sold their home in Santa Barbara, Calif., quit their jobs, and relocated to Kailua, Oahu. They live off a few rental properties they own, spend a lot of time at the beach, and travel as much as they can. "Our latest trip was a last-minute, 28-day cruise around South America," said Linda, who is 53, like her husband. "We fell in love with Chile and the Patagonia region, especially the penguins."

In mid-February, the couple is starting an adventure that'll make nine-to-fivers even more jealous: They're off to New Zealand and Australia for five weeks, and they asked us to help plan the trip--specifically in New Zealand, where they'll be for most of their vacation. "We'd like to see as much as possible," Linda wrote to us.

The first thing we did was talk the Lowes out of a 12-day cruise from Auckland to Sydney, because it would be difficult to spend all that time at sea and still see everything they wanted to on land. A regional upstart airline, Pacific Blue, has flights from Christchurch, on New Zealand's South Island, to Melbourne, for $154.

The Lowes are starting off in Auckland, on the North Island, and working their way south in a rental car. We told them that making hotel reservations more than a day in advance is rarely necessary. Two essentials: a detailed road map (bought locally at any bookstore) and a reliable accommodations guide from the country's automobile association (available for free at almost every hotel in the country).

Jeff and Linda were curious about a festival happening February 17 to 20 in Napier, in the Hawkes Bay region. After an earthquake destroyed Napier in 1931, the city was rebuilt in the pastel colors and art deco style popular at the time--giving Napier its claim to fame and the genesis of the annual Brebner Print Art Deco Weekend. Everyone dresses up in vintage suits, top hats, and flapper dresses for jazz concerts, dances, and a big Great Gatsby Picnic. No need to bring along costumes, we told the Lowes; a couple of stores in town rent 1930s-style clothing for $3.50 and up.

"We're interested in the cultural similarities between the native peoples of New Zealand, Australia, and Hawaii and want to meet some of the Maori," said Linda. On the drive from Auckland to Napier, the Lowes are planning on a stop in Rotorua. The city is known for two main reasons--a third of the population is Maori, and it is near one of the most volcanically active areas in the world. A good place to learn about both is the Whakarewarewa thermal village, where the entrance price includes a guided tour of the village, access to its mud pools and hot thermal lakes, and a performance of traditional Maori song and dance. In Wellington--the capital, and the country's best all-around town--the Te Papa Tongarewa Museum is a must. Admission is free, and there are Maori sailing vessels, a marae (traditional meeting place), and hundreds of native artifacts.

From Wellington, the Lowes will board a three-hour ferry and then spend about three weeks on the South Island. After several days of leisurely driving down the coast, it's time to meet with some of Jeff and Linda's favorite creatures. A colony of blue penguins puts on a nightly show at Oamaru, three hours south of Christchurch. Returning from an industrious day of fishing just after dusk, the birds hop along adorably from rock to rock, back to their nests, while a crowd views from a respectful distance.

Another two hours south, at Dunedin (duh-nee-din), the Lowes are detouring east out onto the Otago Peninsula. Near the end of the road is the Royal Albatross Centre, where, with a little luck, they'll see a few of the giant birds. Most people turn around here, but we directed the Lowes to the Natures Wonders Naturally tour, at a sheep farm on the ocean's edge. Visitors ride on ultrarugged eight-wheel ATVs while the driver occasionally spins 360's in the mud, and there are chances to get up-close views of penguins and baby fur seals along the coast.

"Stewart Island seems interesting, though we don't know much about it," said Linda. The third largest of New Zealand's isles, where nearly 85 percent of the land is a national park, is home to a few hundred full-time residents. We advised the Lowes to take the ferry over from Bluff. The South Sea Hotel, which has quiet units with kitchenettes behind the main building, is a short walk from the wharf. We told the Lowes to look into a guided tour of the bird sanctuary on nearby Ulva Island, run by a Maori woman named after the island.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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Shopping
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When you're shopping for alcohol on any Caribbean island, ask if there's a Kmart nearby. Often the dis- counter is a short distance from the docks where the cruise ships tie up and has an extensive selection at prices lower than the liquor stores on the main drag. While you're there, pick up that extra roll of film or the sunscreen you forgot.

— Andrea Mansfield
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Packing
420285

My husband and I keep the stretchy slipper-socks that some airlines provide. (We've gotten them on Virgin Atlantic in economy class and on almost all airlines in business class.) They're great to use when packing shoes: Just slip each shoe into a sock, and you'll prevent clothes from getting marked up by the soles. As a bonus, you'll have slippers to wear when you're away from home. The socks are machine-washable and can last for many years.

— Wendy Barr
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Air Travel
384272

Check fares periodically after booking your airfare. The airline may have a sale, and buying new tickets could save you money, even after you pay the change penalty. My wife and I used Travelocity's Fare Finder to pocket $187 each on a recent trip from Seattle to New York City, simply by re-ticketing.

— Doug Rittenhouse
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Hotels
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I always bring a small flashlight to hotels in case there's a blackout. The building may not be equipped with emergency lighting, and, if necessary, my flashlight will help me quickly locate the nearest exit.

— Lois Meshonek
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Packing
357299

I used to lug around a clothes steamer and adapter to stay wrinkle-free while on the road, but I've since opted for something more low-tech. I now travel with a Platypus collapsible bottle and a spray bottle head. After checking into my hotel, I immediately hang my clothes and give them a spritz with water from the spray bottle. After several hours, the wrinkles fall out, and the clothing is dry and ready to wear.

— Dr. Cornelia Cho
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Family Travel
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It can be difficult for parents to find a place to bathe their infant while on vacation. Showers obviously won't work, and the miniscule sinks generally found in hotel bathrooms aren't appropriate either. On our last cruise, we eliminated the whole problem by packing a small, inexpensive inflatable bathtub. (Ours cost only $7.99.) When we arrived, we blew it up and placed it in the bottom of the shower for an instant, safe baby bath.

— Maria Diekema-Zuidema
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Planning
372273

If you're headed to a country that requires a visa, ask the consulate of that country, in the United States, whether visas are also issued at the airport there on arrival. In many cases (like Turkey and Egypt), they are. Obtaining the visa on arrival is a much simpler procedure and a real money-saver: You do not have to have photographs taken (they figure your passport already has a photo), you do not pay a hefty fee to the U.S.-situated consulate of the country, you avoid the expense and risk of mailing your passport to that consulate in advance of departure, and you avoid the expense of using a visa-acquiring company in the United States. But be sure the consulate is correct that the visa can easily be obtained on arrival.

— Carmencita Soriano
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Transportation
365245

When I'm on a cruise with my wife's family and we're in a foreign city for the day, I get off the boat as soon as we dock and hail a taxi. I ask the driver to call his dispatcher and find me a van with an English-speaking driver. Then I negotiate an hourly rate and a pickup time at the dock. The family tours together for a few hours, and then each couple either gets dropped off where they want to spend extra time or returns to the boat (this is great for my elderly in-laws). We get a tailor-made city tour for a much cheaper rate than if we had booked through the cruise line.

— Stuart Hanzman
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Planning
384270

When we visit places we think we might return to, we collect copies of free tourist magazines. At home, we write the address of each magazine on a postcard. Six to eight weeks before our return visit, we send out the cards asking for a current copy. The magazines are full of useful information.

— F. Richard Leininger
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Packing
392320

There's nothing worse than trying to fall asleep under a mosquito net and then realizing that the bugs are finding a way inside. So next time you're heading someplace tropical--where you know you'll be sleeping under mosquito netting--remember to toss a roll of Scotch tape into your suitcase. It's perfect for quick repairs.

— Christopher Swain
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Packing
376268

I travel with a mailing tube in my suitcase because I often buy paintings, drawings, and maps. My souvenirs always arrive home safe and sound. I just leave the mailing tube in my suitcase until the next trip.

— Abbie-Stuart Fox
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Technology
420279

When you go to a convention or trade show, don't assume that the official prices at recommended hotels are the best you can do. Go to the hotel Web site. I recently got an AARP rate at a major hotel that was 30 percent below the special price offered through the tradeshow sponsors. AAA discounts often work, too.

— Duane Dahl
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Photography
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I always snap photographs of scenic highway markers, park entrance signs, and the like. These informational photos are put into our album to help identify the many sites that we visited.

— Betty L. Cox
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Transportation
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Before traveling by taxi in foreign (or even domestic) locations, ask a local (perhaps stopping in shops to question the sales staff) what the approximate taxi fare would be to a particular location. They've always been pleased to help me. In this manner, I can avoid paying the inflated tourist rates!

— Carol P. McCrea
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Packing
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Recycle the long plastic bags in which you receive your home-delivered newspapers. Slip your shoes into the bags before packing them in your suitcase.

— Robert E. Jones
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Packing
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My husband cut an old contact lens case in two and uses the halves to carry his medication when we're traveling. He prefers them to regular pillboxes because lens cases are watertight and compact enough to carry inside a shirt pocket.

— Jean Holtmann
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Planning
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If you're traveling overseas, be sure to check the fine print concerning passports (go online or call the country's embassy). I had three months before my passport expired and found out at the last minute that I needed six months' leeway to enter Tahiti. Luckily, I was able to get a new passport just in time for my vacation.

— Jean Schwinn
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Planning
362265

My friends and I contribute to a kitty and use that money to pay for group expenses such as taxis and meals. It saves us from having to figure out each person's share at every stop. At the end of the trip, we split what remains.

— Carol Moran
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Packing
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I always pack a Petzl Tikka Plus headlamp. It's small, weighs next to nothing, and is perfect for reading in bed at night without disturbing my husband. They're sold online and at outdoor-gear stores for about $33.

— Linda Smejkal
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Packing
368257

Anyone traveling with multiple electronic devices (laptops, PDAs, cell phones, digital cameras, MP3 players) can easily confuse all the accessories that come with them. To keep all battery chargers, USB cables, media cards, and owner's manuals safe, dry, and organized, place them in individual Ziploc bags. You can put a label inside the bag to identify the contents, and one label wrapped around each cable to identify it.

— Alyse Liebowitz
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Packing
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When carrying around my small umbrella, I put it in a Ziploc bag. After using it, I can store the umbrella, back inside the Ziploc, in my shoulder bag without getting everything else soaked.

— Sandy Sussman
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Transportation
364254

In Europe, my husband and I like to use public transportation. As a result, we frequently find ourselves studying itineraries displayed on train station walls, trying to read schedules posted at bus stops, or staring at kiosk-size town maps. On our last trip, my husband snapped digital photographs of those things. We were able to take the map or itinerary with us and could refer to it as needed by using the zoom feature.

— Anne Supsic
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Loyalty Programs
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Sign up for guest programs at every hotel chain that offers one, even if you haven't stayed at that hotel before or think you may not travel enough to reap benefits from multiple stays. Some programs send coupons for discounted rooms or complimentary room upgrades just for being a member. After signing up for the Omni Hotels Select Guest program, I received a coupon that I was able to redeem for a room in Chicago for $80 per night.

— Allison Meyer
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Planning
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I unpacked a pair of black slacks recently to find them covered with white fuzz. I didn't have a lint brush handy, so I used the luggage sticker from my bag--the gummy side took the lint right off.

— Joyce Barbatti
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Planning
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Before leaving for a vacation, I print out all our reservations and directions, and I create a contact sheet for emergencies. Then I gather all the papers together, punch some holes, and place them in a folder that has a middle section for three–holed papers. The side pockets hold brochures, business cards, ticket stubs, receipts, and maps that we collect along the way and want to bring home for our scrapbook.

— Sonal Gupte
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Packing
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I find that hotel bathrooms rarely have enough hangers and hooks for clothes and wet towels, so I always bring a few snap-lock suction hooks. (They function better than regular suction hooks because they're more secure and are therefore able to hold heavier items.) It's always nice to have a place to hang a bathrobe.

— Laura Tillman
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Packing
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Put your perfume and cologne bottles inside pairs of rolled-up socks to keep them cushioned during your journey.

— Joia Starks
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Air Travel
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Try to book the first flight out in the morning, because those planes often arrive at the airport the evening before. You won't have to rely on an incoming plane, which could be delayed or canceled due to bad weather elsewhere, resulting in your own flight being delayed or canceled.

— George Glover
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Packing
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Bring your own linens. They're useful in a million different ways. Obviously a soft cotton pillowcase makes those scratchy airplane pillows bearable, but it can also be used to gather loose items when deplaning. A nice sheet will cover up an ugly bedspread or sofa, and makes a great tablecloth or picnic blanket.

— Dori Egan
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Air Travel
388279

Though they're often the best deals around, don't assume that packaged vacations always offer the biggest bang for your buck. My wife and I were ready to book an air/hotel package to Maui when we noticed a sale on Aloha Airlines ($280 round trip from Oakland). I added up the total cost of the trip if purchased separately and saved $400 over comparable packages from various tour operators. We used the extra money to stay in a nicer hotel and to rent a convertible!

— Kleem Chaudhary

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