BudgetTravel

Separated by a slashed clearing through the forest, Alberta's Waterton Lakes National Park and neighboring Glacier National Park in Montana form the world's first International Peace Park. The tiny lakeside town of Waterton sits where the Rocky Mountains drop dramatically to rolling prairies, generating winds so strong the historic seven-story Prince of Wales Hotel has to be anchored with huge cables.

When to go: The sunniest weather is from June through September. For wildflowers--55 percent of Alberta's wildflowers are found in the park--visit in early summer; for bird migrations and the best animal sightings, go in late fall.

Wildlife: Watch for moose at Cameron Valley (a popular canoeing lake); black bear, elk, and bighorn sheep on the prairie portion of the park; eagles on updrafts in the valley; and grizzlies wandering in the wilderness beyond town.

Don't miss: The two-hour cruise along the shores of Upper Waterton Lake, which is the deepest lake in the Rockies. It goes to Goat Haunt, a U.S. ranger station just over the border in Montana ($19 adults, $14 ages 13 to 17, $7 kids, Waterton International Shoreline Cruise Company, 403/859-2362).

Where to stay: Waterton Lakes Lodge is the only full-service resort in town (from $163 in summer, about $50 less in spring and fall, 888/895-6343, watertonlakeslodge.com/). The historic Prince of Wales Hotel, below, has an undeniably spectacular view--unfortunately, it charges high rates to match. You're better off visiting it for afternoon tea ($19).

You need to know: Because there are only 400 hotel rooms available in town, you really do have to book far in advance!

Budget secret: Park interpreters from both the United States and Canada lead free cross-border, full-day hikes every Saturday. You only have to pay for the boat fare: $4 to $11, depending on age.

Planning: 403/859-2224; regional information, 403/853-2252, watertonpark.com/.

Banff National Park, Alberta

Canada's oldest national park started with three prospectors poking around the Rockies. They didn't find gold, just a steaming, sulfurous hot spring, but the protection of that discovery, in 1885, led to the creation of a 656-square-mile park of jagged snow-capped mountains, broad U-shaped valleys, turquoise lakes, rich forests, and meandering rivers. More than 4 million visitors pay their respects every year, and with some of the world's best hiking and skiing, peak season never ends.

Photo op: For that classic, mountain-reflected-by-the-lake shot, make an early-morning visit to the poppy-filled garden behind the elegant Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise resort. Also stunning is the unbelievably blue Peyto Lake, off the Icefields Parkway, between Lake Louise and the Jasper Park border.

Wildlife: Elk were once so prolific that park staffers were issued slingshots in an effort to persuade them to move out of town. Grizzlies, meanwhile, hang out in the mountains, stuffing themselves in summer with up to 100,000 buffalo berries each day.