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ROAD TRIPS

Maine's Mid-Coast

Even for non-fishermen, life on the Maine seashore revolves around the water--and you don't need a lighthouse to find a view worth marveling at
By Reid Bramblett, July/August 2005 issue |

  • Squire Tarbox Inn 1181 Main Rd., Westport Island, 800/818-0626, squiretarboxinn.com, rooms from $99, dinner from $32.50
  • Food

    The 1827 lighthouse at Pemaquid Point (Getty Images) [enlarge photo]

  • Lobster Cooker 39 Main St., Freeport, 207/865-4349, lobster roll $14
  • Attractions

  • DeLorme 2 DeLorme Dr., Yarmouth, 207/846-7100
  • Desert of Maine 95 Desert Rd., Freeport, 207/865-6962, $7.75
  • Shopping

  • L.L. Bean 95 Main St., Freeport, 800/559-0747
  • Day 2: Westport Island to Waldoboro

    To say the town of Bath (pop. 9,266) is in the shipbuilding industry is a bit of an understatement; nearly half of the employees at Bath Iron Works are from the greater Bath area. And during the past 117 years, BIW has built more than 400 big boats, from tugs to missile destroyers. Down the road from BIW, the defunct Percy & Small Shipyard has been turned into the Maine Maritime Museum. I expected it to be dull, but was proven wrong by an intriguing mix of seafaring lore and shipbuilding secrets. An exhibit on lobstermen listed some common superstitions: They will not paint their boats blue, wear black, turn baskets or barrels upside down, or say the word "pig" while on board.

    Maine's Mid-Coast looks somewhat like a stumpy hand with more than a dozen long, scraggly fingers. The fingers are peninsulas and islands, most of which are connected by bridges. From Bath, we drove down one peninsula and onto Bailey Island, a small fishing village. At the docks, Cook's Lobster House was a near-perfect lobster shack. I had baked lobster stuffed with Ritz crackers. The baking dried out the lobster meat, but copious amounts of melted butter went a long way to making up for it.

    At Bowdoin College in Brunswick, we visited the Peary-MacMillan Arctic Museum, a collection of Arctic arcana. (Did you know caribou hair is hollow?) The place was named for two alumni explorers, the more famous of whom--Robert Edwin Peary--became the first man to reach the North Pole, in 1909.

    Note: This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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