TRANSCRIPT

Trip Coach: July 19, 2005

Reid Bramblett, who wrote "Secret Hotels of Tuscany" in the July/August issue, answered your questions on Italy

Reid Bramblett: Buon giorno, e benvenuti! Just wanted to welcome everyone to the Italy chat here at Budget Travel Online. So, without further ado: bring on the questions!

_______________________

Chicago, IL: My girlfriend and I are travelling to Italy September 12th through the 23rd. We've recently decided to spend a few days it Sicily, then Sorrento and finish our trip in Rome. It seems like not as much is known about Sicily in the way of Rome or the Amalfi Coast. Any suggestions for spending a few days in Sicily? We've heard that it is the "real Italy," so anything close to that we'd enjoy.

Reid Bramblett: As it so happens, I was in Sicily three weeks ago. Every art of Italy is different--part of what makes the country so fascinating and so much fun to tour--so no part is more "real Italy" than another (though you could argue that, since so many Italian-Americans are of Sicilian or other Southern Italian descent and not so many, say, from Milan or the north, that our vision of what "Italy" is more of a Southern Italian one). However, it is true that in Sicily, as in much of the rest of the south, the older lifeways are more widely upheld and certainly visible, so you get more of a sense of the Italy that once was and it proud to remain.

To do Sicily properly, you really need a week--after all, this huge island at the center of the Mediterranean has variously been park of the Phoenician, Greek, Roman, Arab, and Norman empires, and been ruled by the Spanish Bourbon and French Angevins, and--just in the past 140 years of so, became a part of Italy; to say it is culturally rich is a rather enormous understatement--but I guess in a few days you can manage to get a taste that'll leave you hankering for more.

Not knowing how many "few days" you have, I'd hazard the idea that you skip Palermo--despite the glittering Byzantine mosaics in the Capella Palatina and swathing Monreale Cathedral, and the pink Arab domelets on some of the medieval churches. It's just too far out the island and takes a few days to tackle itself.

Stick instead to the most rewarding few spots of the eastern and southern coasts. Head straight through to Agrigento, which holds in its Valley of the Temple archaeological park along a ridge below town, some of the best preserved 5th century BC Greek Temples in the entire world (remember, Sicily was once part of Magna Graecia, or greater Greece; in fact, the legend of Persephone--you know, being carried off to hell by Hades, eating a bit of pomegranate, then being forced to split her time between earth and the netherworld?--is a Sicilian one that other Greeks adopted).

Then zip over to Siracusa, in the southeastern corner of the island, my favorite Sicilian city. The ancient center is on an island, and its main square centers around a cathedral that's a barely altered ancient Greek temple itself--they just bricked in the walls between the columns, then punched arches through the solid-walled cella in the center to create a nave and aisles and voila: instant church. Nearby, in the Fonte Arethusa well that was formed by a nymph escaping a lascivious river god, grows a stand of bushy-headed reeds that look like something out of Dr. Seuss: the only wild papyrus north of Africa (a gift to Siracusa from one of the Ptolemy's--see, told you it was an old place). On the Siracusan mainland sits the remains of the ancient Greek Theater--still used for concerts and shows in the summertime--and an absolutely brilliant archaeological museum. But sometimes, the best thing to do in Siracusa is just to sit back at a pizzeria on the seaside promenade that wraps around the whole town, enjoy the lapping of the weaves, and take in a Sicilian puppet show of chivalrous medieval knight's tales being performed free of charge.

_______________________

Chicago, IL: Is late October/early November too late in the year to enjoy the full beauty of the Tuscan region?

Reid Bramblett: Good lord, not at all! Fall is my favorite time of year to visit central Italy.

This is still, for all the grape vines, a hunter-gatherer culture, and fall is the time for hunting (wild board, thrushes, other small game), for gathering (porcini mushrooms, chestnuts to make the flour that goes into many local dishes, and above all: truffles, both black and white), and for the harvest.
And when I say "harvest" in Tuscany, I'm talking grapes and olives. In late September/early October, they take in the grapes that have been sweetening on the vines all summer and start turning them into wine. After that, in October, they begin harvesting the olives to press the greenest, freshest oil you've ever tasted in your life.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
Follow Us!

Booking Tool

Check Current Prices

  1. Hotels
  2. Flights
  3. Cars
  4. Cruises

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Travel Tips

Tagged
Technology
467642

Just before a trip to Spain, I emailed myself a list of addresses of the friends and family I might want to email while away. At a cybercafe, I was able to simply cut and paste the list into the address line of a new message.

— Rita Young
Tagged
Photography
367269

Many computer photo albums use camera date stamps to organize collections. Whenever you're traveling in a time zone that might affect the date stamp (if you're crossing the International Date Line, for example), remember to reset your camera's clock.

— Michael Gray
Tagged
Hotels
416334

I've found that by wedging a bath mat under my hotel-room door, I can reduce any light or noise coming from the hallway—ensuring that I'll sleep better.

— Louisa Elder
Tagged
Car Rentals
359263

Don't rush off the car-rental lot. Before driving away--especially in foreign countries where the controls might be unfamiliar-test the headlights and brakes, and look for the extra tire and changing tools. I once had a rental with malfunctioning brakes in Mexico and caused a minor accident--one that could certainly have been avoided had I checked them properly before leaving the lot.

— Doreen Stelton
Tagged
Packing
371243

The best carry-on bag that I've found is a gardener's tote. It has lots of pockets on the outside and room inside for a medium-size purse, yet it's small enough to sit comfortably at my feet on a bus or plane.

— Sheila Monk
Tagged
Planning
362264

My friends and I contribute to a kitty and use that money to pay for group expenses such as taxis and meals. It saves us from having to figure out each person's share at every stop. At the end of the trip, we split what remains.

— Carol Moran
Tagged
Air Travel
378261

As a flight attendant, I'm always amazed by the stuff that people leave behind. Most of it never gets back to its rightful owner because there's no way of knowing who the owner is. To avoid misplacing your property, put things back into your carry-on after using them--never on the floor or in the seat-back pocket. Label important items like books or games with return address labels so they can be sent back to you if found.

— Doug Hummell
Tagged
Hotels
421339

Rather than automatically using your hotel's valet parking, you should check to see if there's an adjacent parking lot or garage that offers a better rate. On a recent trip, I was able to park across the street from my hotel for $10 per day--versus $27 per day to valet park with the hotel.

— Charles LaFleur
Tagged
Hotels
447317

If you plan to leave a gratuity for hotel staff, follow our friend Phil's good advice: Give it at the beginning of your vacation, not at the end. He introduces himself to the housekeepers early in the trip and hands them a nice tip. Guess who always has plenty of coffee and fresh towels?

— Lou Stover
Tagged
Photography
370271

Put an address label on your one-time-use camera. At a Final Four game in Indianapolis, we exchanged identical Kodak Fun Savers with another traveler so that we could take souvenir photos of each other with our respective cameras. But afterward, we couldn't tell whose camera was whose. Luckily, I remembered how many exposures remained on mine, so we got ours back. Next time, I'll just label it.

— Matthew Richard
Tagged
Planning
373263

If you're traveling overseas, be sure to check the fine print concerning passports (go online or call the country's embassy). I had three months before my passport expired and found out at the last minute that I needed six months' leeway to enter Tahiti. Luckily, I was able to get a new passport just in time for my vacation.

— Jean Schwinn
Tagged
Packing
370285

Instead of bringing one of those bungee cables to hang-dry my delicates and socks, I pack a couple of mini plastic hangers--the ones that bras and panties come on when you buy them. They take up very little room in my luggage and can be thrown away at the end of the trip.

— Monica Pileggi
Tagged
Air Travel
376266

For long overnight flights, pack a dry washcloth in a Ziploc bag in your carry-on. Before landing, ask the flight attendant for a cup of hot (not boiling) water. Carefully pour the water into the Ziploc bag and then wipe your face and hands with the steaming cloth. It's like a portable sauna!

— Henrietta Scarlett Ober
Tagged
Hotels
453352

The help of a concierge at an expensive hotel is available even if you're staying at a motel across the street. Go to the concierge with $5 (or whatever the assistance is worth to you) held discreetly but visibly in your hand. Chances are you won't be asked whether you're staying at the hotel. This worked for us once when we were stranded by a blizzard. We tried to rebook our flights on our own, but phones at the airlines were busy for two days straight. The concierge at a fancy hotel a few blocks away got through on his first try and managed to rearrange our flights for us.

— Janet Willer
Tagged
Technology
408288

We always e-mail our itinerary--including flights, hotels, and confirmation numbers--to ourselves and to family members. If our luggage is lost or our wallets are stolen, all of this essential information is just an Internet café and a few quick clicks away.

— Courtney Fuller
Tagged
Packing
352248

Shout Wipes take up very little space in your purse or backpack and are invaluable for treating stains. While traveling on an airplane, I gave one to a most grateful Italian after he spilled wine on his tie. Our friendship extended through customs, and we're now e-mail pals. Great stuff!

— Marilyn Rogers
Tagged
Hotels
432327

On my first trip to Cancun, I noticed that my hotel room had a damp, musty odor. The next time I went, I brought two plug-in air fresheners: one for the bedroom and one for the bathroom. This helped tremendously. It was a pleasure to walk in and have a fresh-smelling room. Just make sure you have an adapter, if you need one.

— Anita Rivera
Tagged
Packing
352260

I never leave home without dental floss. I've used it as a clothesline between tents in Botswana's Okavango Delta and to replace a lost screw for my sunglasses in Malaysia. I even cut off a piece of floss the size of my waist and headed to the night markets in Bangkok. My "tape measure" assured a perfect fit!

— Kristi Hemmer
Tagged
Technology
389295

When overseas, I carry a "cheat sheet" that includes exchange rates and metric conversions. Currency conversions are available at oanda.com.

— Carol Vela
Tagged
Packing
389303

After looking for years for the perfect toiletries bag and being frustrated by many that were less than ideal, I finally discovered one that is just right: a soft-sided lunch box I bought at the supermarket. It has an outer zipped pocket with small compartments and slots perfect for often-used items like a toothbrush and toothpaste. There's a small removable zipper pouch inside (meant for a small ice pack) for those smaller, hard-to-find items like nail files and pill bottles. The remaining space inside is just right for larger items like shampoo and hand lotion. Other helpful features include both a small handle and shoulder strap and a waterproof, easy-to-clean interior. As an elementary school teacher, I know firsthand that it'll last: It was designed to withstand daily use by kids!

— Jennifer Minton
Tagged
Safety
444314

Whenever I'm in a country where drinking or brushing my teeth with the tap water is a risk, I cover the faucet handles in my hotel bathroom with a towel. As a result, I never accidentally turn on the faucet when I'm half asleep.

— Denise Crocker
Tagged
Cruises
394334

We like to buy shipboard souvenirs, so we try to choose a ship that's completing its run of an area--that's when merchandise is generally put on sale. Last year, for example, on a sailing in South America, all of the T-shirts, glassware, and rain jackets were 75 percent off.

— Carol Callahan
Tagged
Air Travel
371274

I switch from street shoes to flannel-lined moccasins at the airport. It saves time at the security checkpoint, and I'm comfortable during the flight. Once I land, I switch back to my street shoes.

— John Eymann
Tagged
Car Rentals
363261

When parking in a crowded garage, don't settle for the first space available on a lower level. It's probably a half-day hike from the elevator. Instead, drive to the upper levels, where you can usually park right next to the elevator. This tip was very useful in Las Vegas, especially when checking in and out of hotels with our luggage.

— Shane Kays
Tagged
Packing
340276

Pack a power strip and extension cord for your next cruise. Many cruise-ship cabins have only one out- let, but you'll definitely need more if you want to power up your laptop, iPod, cell phone, electric razor, hairdryer, or any other gadgets you bring on board.

— Jay Van Vechten
Tagged
Packing
362269

Pick just two colors to mix and match throughout your trip. You'll cut down on luggage, not least because you won't have to bring a bunch of shoes to match a wide assortment of colors.

— Lori Fields
Tagged
Technology
412312

To find a reasonably priced villa or apartment to rent, try going directly to the owner through a site such as abritel.fr. (Click on the British flag for English.) I arranged to spend two weeks in an apartment in Brittany and one week in an apartment in the Loire Valley, all for a total of $800.

— Suzanne Maurice-Roberts
Tagged
Planning
379263

Once we know where we're going, my girlfriends and I divide up the list of things we'd like to do on our trip and put someone in charge of each item on the list. Then that person does the legwork by finding directions and prices, making reservations (if necessary), and researching nearby places to stop for a snack or a meal. Our method means that no one person is doing all the planning.

— Carol J. Leisch
Tagged
Packing
369263

Batteries for cameras, laptops, cell phones, and other devices can be charged at night in your hotel room. But if you're doing a lot of driving, you might want to buy an inverter to charge them while on the road. Inverters (which plug into the car's cigarette lighter) are small, inexpensive, and can be purchased at auto-supply, variety, or electronics stores.

— Kay Euhus
Tagged
Safety
449306

Paramedics now look for emergency contact information in victims' mobile phones. Store the word "ICE" (In Case of Emergency) in your address book, along with the name and number of the person you'd like emergency personnel to call on your behalf. (For more than one entry, use ICE1, ICE2, etc.) Tell your friends or family members that you've chosen them as your contacts and make sure they're aware of any medical conditions or allergies that could affect your treatment.

— Cindy Nguyen

Custom Search

Select the details relevant to your trip to see a list of articles that match your needs — it's the best way to get ideas!
SELECT YOUR DESTINATION
SELECT YOUR ACTIVITIES