Where Foodies Love to Eat, Part 2

Paris, London, Italy, and more

MARIO BATALI
Owner of seven New York City restaurants; author of the new book Molto Italiano; star of Molto Mario on the Food Network

Rome The world's best cappuccino is at the Rome airport ($2.40). When you pass through customs, go to the bar on the left.

Florence The best tripe sandwich is from a stand on the corner of Via de' Macci and Borgo la Croce at the Sant'Ambrogio Market ($3). The best porchetta sandwich is at a truck parked near the Calenzano-Sesto Fiorentino exit on Autostrada del Sole heading north ($4).

COLMAN ANDREWS
Editor of Saveur magazine

Ireland In Cork City, there's a stylish new tapas bar, Boqueria, that manages to serve authentic Spanish food while using lots of Irish artisanal products. The charcuteria assortment, for example, has Spanish ham as well as assorted salamis from West Cork. They also serve non-Spanish breakfasts, with free-range farmhouse eggs and stone-cut oatmeal from nearby Macroom. In an unexpected way, this Spanish restaurant gives visitors more of a taste of Ireland than many Irish places. 6 Bridge St., 011-353/21-455-9049, charcuteria $20.

ALICE WATERS
Chef/owner of Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Calif., and a champion of sustainable farming

Italy Pietro Romanengo in Genoa has amazing candied fruit, almonds, and marzipan. The place has been family-owned since the 18th century (Via Soziglia 74r, 011-39/010-247-4574, marzipan $5). Nietzsche used to sip coffee at Caffè Al Bicerin in Turin. The special drink, called a Bicerin, is beautifully layered with chocolate, cream, and coffee (5 Piazza Della Consolata, 011-39/011-43-69-325, Bicerin $5).

JACQUES TORRES
Chef and owner of Jacques Torres Chocolate and Chocolate Haven in New York City

France One of my favorite pastry shops is Pâtisserie Cottard in Antibes. He has gorgeous cakes and fabulous pastries. I always try to stop there on my way to or from the Nice airport. 49 rue République, 011-33/4-93-34-09-92, almond croissant $2.

DAN PHILIPS Creator of The Grateful Palate, a gourmet catalog and website

Spain Combarro, in Madrid, has a glass floor, so you can see all the seafood swimming beneath you (José Ortega y Gasset 40, 011-34/915-778-272, fillet of hake $20). The finest paella is at Paco Gandia in Pinoso. They put twigs in bundles in an open hearth and a gigantic paella pan, with rabbit and snails, over it (Calle San Francisco 2, 011-34/965-478-023, $22).

JASPER WHITE
Chef/owner of Jasper White's Summer Shack, four locations around New England

Ireland I'm a seafood nut, and Ireland is one of the great seafood places of the world. Kinsale, in the south, has a beautiful harbor and a little bistro called Fishy Fishy Café. It's a little fish market--maybe 25 seats--with blue and red tiles. They fillet the fish right there. Oh, God, we ate so many things. Irish lobsters--they're as good as Maine lobsters. Fresh prawns that come right from the boats. Black sole, a beautiful fish. It's the restaurant I want to open someday. You know, you feel the love. Market Place, 011-353/21-477-4453, prawns $17.

RICK BAYLESS
Chef and owner of Topolobampo and Frontera Grill, both based in Chicago

Mexico City In Condesa, El Farolito has super-memorable steak tacos, grilled over charcoal. Incredibly delicious. But don't overlook their tacos al pastor, with pork and red chili sauce (Altata 19, Colonia Condesa, 011-52/55-5273-7297, taco al pastor $1). Churrería el Moro has the best churros in the world (Eje Central Lázaro Cardenas No. 42, Colonia Centro, 011-52/55-5518-4580, four churros and hot chocolate $3.50).

GABRIEL KREUTHER
Chef at The Modern, at the Museum of Modern Art in New York City; he was raised in Alsace, France

Strasbourg Chez Yvonne has the best presskopf ($11), a pâté made from a pig's head (10 rue du Sanglier, 011-33/3-88-32-84-15). And Munsterstuewel has marvelous choucroute with all the little things ($30)--pork shank, four types of sausage, bacon, sauerkraut, and house quenelles (8 place du Marché-aux-Cochons-de-Lait, 011-33/3-88-32-17-63).

ROBERT STEINBERG
Cofounder of the Scharffen Berger chocolate company

Paris Du Pain et Des Idées boulangerie specializes in rustic bread with a perfectly crunchy crust. In addition to the bread, there are a few pastries, such as seasonal fruit tarts and pain au chocolat (34 rue Yves Toudic, 011-33/1-42-40-44-52, pain au chocolat $1.30). Pizza Grill Istanbul is suggestive of life at the eastern edge of Europe. Choices include tomato, lettuce, and feta cheese salads; tender lamb shish kebabs; and a salted yogurt drink called ayran that's quite refreshing (66 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 011-33/1-48-00-98-10, lamb shish kebabs $11). Le Réveil du 10ème is something of a quartier secret (35 rue de Château d'Eau, 011-33/1-42-41-77-59, veal dinner $14).


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Before I embark on a trip, I cover the dirt of my potted plants with plastic bags after watering them well. (Cut a few slits in the bags and keep plants out of direct sunlight.) The soil will stay damp for about three weeks.

— Jean Walsh
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Rather than automatically using your hotel's valet parking, you should check to see if there's an adjacent parking lot or garage that offers a better rate. On a recent trip, I was able to park across the street from my hotel for $10 per day--versus $27 per day to valet park with the hotel.

— Charles LaFleur
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In Europe, my husband and I like to use public transportation. As a result, we frequently find ourselves studying itineraries displayed on train station walls, trying to read schedules posted at bus stops, or staring at kiosk-size town maps. On our last trip, my husband snapped digital photographs of those things. We were able to take the map or itinerary with us and could refer to it as needed by using the zoom feature.

— Anne Supsic
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Scuba-diving vacations can get expensive. As I start planning a trip, I call one of the local PADI dive shops and ask the employees about accommodations nearby. They give me hotel connections I couldn't find on my own, and I often save enough to pay for my dives.

— Lyle Bennett
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I've discovered a wonderful way to enjoy massages at a fraction of the usual cost. Some massage-training schools provide superb service in a spa-type environment. Do a Google search to see if there are training programs near your next vacation destination.

— Karen Gardiner
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Hotels
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Flight attendants often work vampire hours and have to sleep during the day. How do we keep the sunlight from leaking into our hotel rooms? We clip a skirt hanger (or two) to the middle of the drapes to seal them together.

— Elisabeth Joyce
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Before you head to the airport, stop by the front desk of your hotel or cruise ship and ask if they'll print your boarding pass for you. It'll save Internet browsing fees and time at check-in. It's worked for me at several Marriott hotels and on a Celebrity cruise.

— Rose Jakubaszek
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Play Let's Make a Deal when you're shopping for vacations at travel shows or expos. Go armed with your own research and a credit card.(You're likely to get a better price if you know what the vacation is worth, and if you're willing to buy it on the spot.) I picked two Caribbean cruises and headed to the New York Times Travel Show. After haggling with the competing cruise lines, I was offered the first cruise for $50 less than the best price I'd found online, and they threw in free trip insurance. In the end, I chose the second—$30 off with a free upgrade to a balcony stateroom—and truly got a bargain.

— Michael Marcarello
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At a theme park, tie a brightly colored scarf to the handle of your stroller before you enter a ride. When you return, you'll be able to quickly pick out your stroller from a sea of look-alikes.

— Katrina Shelton
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Restrooms abroad rarely have hooks on stall doors. Our solution: Pack a small S hook in your shoulder bag and make use of a hole in the wall, a pipe, etc., to hang purses, jackets, or anything else you want to keep off the floor. S hooks can be found in most hardware stores, near the screws and bolts.

— Arthur and Marie Lloyd
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Most hotels provide cloth shoe mitts but not polish. In a pinch, a dollop of skin cream on a shoe mitt (or even a tissue) can make scuff marks vanish and leave shoes as shiny as if they'd been cleaned by a pro.

— John Nechman
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Carry the exact change for public transportation. In Venice, we were annoyed when a vaporetto (water taxi) ticket-taker refused to give us our change. Later, we discovered that if you don't have the exact fare, ticket agents make no promises about giving change.

— Dana Hunting
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Deli counters in grocery stores are great mealtime alternatives to restaurants or fast-food fare when you're exploring the United States. The food is fresh, there's a big variety (hot and cold), and economically, it's a great break. I recently had a complete hot meal, including beverage, for $3 from a grocery-store deli.

— Teresa G. Barcus
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Many computer photo albums use camera date stamps to organize collections. Whenever you're traveling in a time zone that might affect the date stamp (if you're crossing the International Date Line, for example), remember to reset your camera's clock.

— Michael Gray
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My husband and I always travel around Europe by train. When we arrive in any city, we first stop at a ticket window and get all the information we'll need for the next leg of our journey. This gives us plenty of time to find an English-speaking ticket agent who'll print out departure times and platform numbers for us. Before leaving the station, we can note the location of the platform we'll be looking for that morning. One wrong move when you're rushing for a train and you could end up in the wrong city!

— Betty Lynn
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Pack a power strip and extension cord for your next cruise. Many cruise-ship cabins have only one out- let, but you'll definitely need more if you want to power up your laptop, iPod, cell phone, electric razor, hairdryer, or any other gadgets you bring on board.

— Jay Van Vechten
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We've noticed that when booking a flight for our family under one reservation, some airlines will only credit the 1,500 bonus miles (500 for booking online, 500 each way for printing boarding passes) to the person whose name the reservation is under. This is regardless of whether the other family members have mileage accounts. To avoid this, make a separate reservation for each of your family members and then pick seats together.

— Martin Vasquez
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Before using frequent-flier miles, investigate how much the flight actually costs. For example, it takes at least 25,000 miles per person to travel from Boston to Alaska. The same flight cost us $288. After paying for our tickets, we received enough additional miles to travel for free to Sweden instead of Alaska!

— Bobby Pellant
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If you're stranded overnight at an airport and receive a "distress rate" voucher, call the hotel of your choice before blindly following the airline's suggestion. You may find that for that discounted rate (or a few bucks more) you can stay in a hotel with a lot more amenities than the one the airline would put you in. After a long, mishap-filled trip, anyone can appreciate a really good mattress, a top-notch restaurant, and an indoor swimming pool.

— Carlos Martinez
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On a Northwest flight from Wichita to Cleveland, a piece of my luggage was delivered more than a day after I arrived. In the meantime, I had to buy some replacement items. Save your receipts! I turned in the receipts when I checked in for the return flight, and the ticket agent issued me a $50 check.(Northwest allows up to $50 in interim expenses for the first 24 hours, and $25 for each day afterward, with a maximum reimbursement of $150.)

— Phil Richard
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Anyone traveling with multiple electronic devices (laptops, PDAs, cell phones, digital cameras, MP3 players) can easily confuse all the accessories that come with them. To keep all battery chargers, USB cables, media cards, and owner's manuals safe, dry, and organized, place them in individual Ziploc bags. You can put a label inside the bag to identify the contents, and one label wrapped around each cable to identify it.

— Alyse Liebowitz
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Certified scuba divers who take prescription medications should keep a doctor's permission-to-dive statement with their certification cards. On a recent trip to Jamaica, I truthfully completed a lengthy questionnaire about my health, revealing that I have medically controlled high blood pressure and cholesterol. I was told I could not dive without a doctor's OK, even though I exercise regularly, am very fit, and have no other health issues. I now carry a letter from my doctor attesting to my fitness for scuba diving.

— Ginny Ganthner
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When I travel to a new city, I check with the local running club to see if there are any events planned during my stay. The entry fee is usually donated to a charity, and I get great exercise, meet locals, and tour a part of the city I may not have known about.

— Kelly Christensen
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Pack light, or that great deal you found on airfare won't seem that great. On a Ryanair flight between Glasgow and Dublin, my husband and I were charged over $100 for excess baggage weight (the airline tickets themselves cost less than half that). Be sure to check the weight limits—especially on low-fare airlines—before you leave home.

— Lynne Heath
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Even if you're staying at a standard resort hotel, take advantage of the day passes sold by many all-inclusive resorts (i.e., the right to use their facilities--such as swimming pools and beach chairs--and enjoy their meals for a day). The passes are primarily designed for cruise passengers on day trips but can be obtained by anyone for very little money. For persons staying in a less-expensive, no-frills hotel, it can give you the experience of a larger, more extensive resort for a day or two.

— Mandy Vieregg
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When parking in a crowded garage, don't settle for the first space available on a lower level. It's probably a half-day hike from the elevator. Instead, drive to the upper levels, where you can usually park right next to the elevator. This tip was very useful in Las Vegas, especially when checking in and out of hotels with our luggage.

— Shane Kays
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Baby wipes aren't just for babies. Slip a travel-size pack into your carry-on bag and use the wipes to kill germs on public toilet seats and in phone booths. In a pinch, they can also remove stubborn stains from clothing.

— Farrah Farhang
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If your vacation spot is a major port of call for cruise ships, plan excursions for the days that the ships aren't docked. Tours will be less crowded, and you'll get to see and do a lot more.

— Krista Fowles
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Booking condos last minute can yield incredible bargains, and there's a way to maximize savings while minimizing the risk that you won't find a room at all. ("Last minute" generally means a month or less before your stay; seven-day deals usually start on a Saturday.) Buy your plane ticket and book a refundable hotel room you can use in case you can't find that bargain condo. Then, a month or so before your trip, start looking at last-minute sites—lastminutetravel.com, site59.com, etc. If you find a deal, simply get a refund on the hotel room and pay the cancellation fee, if there happens to be one. Using this technique, I found a great beachfront, one-bedroom condo on Maui—and I saved about $300.

— Joan Chyun
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Before you buy expensive bottled water from your hotel room minibar, head to the fitness center. You'll be able to fill up an empty bottle at the gym's water cooler or fountain for free, and you don't need to break a sweat.

— Amanda Geraci

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