Where Foodies Love to Eat, Part 2

Paris, London, Italy, and more

MARIO BATALI
Owner of seven New York City restaurants; author of the new book Molto Italiano; star of Molto Mario on the Food Network

Rome The world's best cappuccino is at the Rome airport ($2.40). When you pass through customs, go to the bar on the left.

Florence The best tripe sandwich is from a stand on the corner of Via de' Macci and Borgo la Croce at the Sant'Ambrogio Market ($3). The best porchetta sandwich is at a truck parked near the Calenzano-Sesto Fiorentino exit on Autostrada del Sole heading north ($4).

COLMAN ANDREWS
Editor of Saveur magazine

Ireland In Cork City, there's a stylish new tapas bar, Boqueria, that manages to serve authentic Spanish food while using lots of Irish artisanal products. The charcuteria assortment, for example, has Spanish ham as well as assorted salamis from West Cork. They also serve non-Spanish breakfasts, with free-range farmhouse eggs and stone-cut oatmeal from nearby Macroom. In an unexpected way, this Spanish restaurant gives visitors more of a taste of Ireland than many Irish places. 6 Bridge St., 011-353/21-455-9049, charcuteria $20.

ALICE WATERS
Chef/owner of Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Calif., and a champion of sustainable farming

Italy Pietro Romanengo in Genoa has amazing candied fruit, almonds, and marzipan. The place has been family-owned since the 18th century (Via Soziglia 74r, 011-39/010-247-4574, marzipan $5). Nietzsche used to sip coffee at Caffè Al Bicerin in Turin. The special drink, called a Bicerin, is beautifully layered with chocolate, cream, and coffee (5 Piazza Della Consolata, 011-39/011-43-69-325, Bicerin $5).

JACQUES TORRES
Chef and owner of Jacques Torres Chocolate and Chocolate Haven in New York City

France One of my favorite pastry shops is Pâtisserie Cottard in Antibes. He has gorgeous cakes and fabulous pastries. I always try to stop there on my way to or from the Nice airport. 49 rue République, 011-33/4-93-34-09-92, almond croissant $2.

DAN PHILIPS Creator of The Grateful Palate, a gourmet catalog and website

Spain Combarro, in Madrid, has a glass floor, so you can see all the seafood swimming beneath you (José Ortega y Gasset 40, 011-34/915-778-272, fillet of hake $20). The finest paella is at Paco Gandia in Pinoso. They put twigs in bundles in an open hearth and a gigantic paella pan, with rabbit and snails, over it (Calle San Francisco 2, 011-34/965-478-023, $22).

JASPER WHITE
Chef/owner of Jasper White's Summer Shack, four locations around New England

Ireland I'm a seafood nut, and Ireland is one of the great seafood places of the world. Kinsale, in the south, has a beautiful harbor and a little bistro called Fishy Fishy Café. It's a little fish market--maybe 25 seats--with blue and red tiles. They fillet the fish right there. Oh, God, we ate so many things. Irish lobsters--they're as good as Maine lobsters. Fresh prawns that come right from the boats. Black sole, a beautiful fish. It's the restaurant I want to open someday. You know, you feel the love. Market Place, 011-353/21-477-4453, prawns $17.

RICK BAYLESS
Chef and owner of Topolobampo and Frontera Grill, both based in Chicago

Mexico City In Condesa, El Farolito has super-memorable steak tacos, grilled over charcoal. Incredibly delicious. But don't overlook their tacos al pastor, with pork and red chili sauce (Altata 19, Colonia Condesa, 011-52/55-5273-7297, taco al pastor $1). Churrería el Moro has the best churros in the world (Eje Central Lázaro Cardenas No. 42, Colonia Centro, 011-52/55-5518-4580, four churros and hot chocolate $3.50).

GABRIEL KREUTHER
Chef at The Modern, at the Museum of Modern Art in New York City; he was raised in Alsace, France

Strasbourg Chez Yvonne has the best presskopf ($11), a pâté made from a pig's head (10 rue du Sanglier, 011-33/3-88-32-84-15). And Munsterstuewel has marvelous choucroute with all the little things ($30)--pork shank, four types of sausage, bacon, sauerkraut, and house quenelles (8 place du Marché-aux-Cochons-de-Lait, 011-33/3-88-32-17-63).

ROBERT STEINBERG
Cofounder of the Scharffen Berger chocolate company

Paris Du Pain et Des Idées boulangerie specializes in rustic bread with a perfectly crunchy crust. In addition to the bread, there are a few pastries, such as seasonal fruit tarts and pain au chocolat (34 rue Yves Toudic, 011-33/1-42-40-44-52, pain au chocolat $1.30). Pizza Grill Istanbul is suggestive of life at the eastern edge of Europe. Choices include tomato, lettuce, and feta cheese salads; tender lamb shish kebabs; and a salted yogurt drink called ayran that's quite refreshing (66 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 011-33/1-48-00-98-10, lamb shish kebabs $11). Le Réveil du 10ème is something of a quartier secret (35 rue de Château d'Eau, 011-33/1-42-41-77-59, veal dinner $14).


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Try to book the first flight out in the morning, because those planes often arrive at the airport the evening before. You won't have to rely on an incoming plane, which could be delayed or canceled due to bad weather elsewhere, resulting in your own flight being delayed or canceled.

— George Glover
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When looking for the lowest airfare, I've found that in some cases the best rates pop up when searching for one traveler instead of two. Recently, I wanted to buy one-way tickets from New York to Orlando for two people and came up with $87 per person. But when I selected one traveler, the fare dropped to $72.

— Yoshi Matsuda
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Scuba-diving vacations can get expensive. As I start planning a trip, I call one of the local PADI dive shops and ask the employees about accommodations nearby. They give me hotel connections I couldn't find on my own, and I often save enough to pay for my dives.

— Lyle Bennett
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Certified scuba divers who take prescription medications should keep a doctor's permission-to-dive statement with their certification cards. On a recent trip to Jamaica, I truthfully completed a lengthy questionnaire about my health, revealing that I have medically controlled high blood pressure and cholesterol. I was told I could not dive without a doctor's OK, even though I exercise regularly, am very fit, and have no other health issues. I now carry a letter from my doctor attesting to my fitness for scuba diving.

— Ginny Ganthner
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Use an empty M&M's Minis tube to carry quarters. The top holds tightly, but still pops open easily enough, and the size is perfect to slip into a car door or bag. I find it very useful when traveling by car (for tolls and parking meters) and by airplane (for luggage carts or newspapers).

— Judi McDowell
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When you go to a convention or trade show, don't assume that the official prices at recommended hotels are the best you can do. Go to the hotel Web site. I recently got an AARP rate at a major hotel that was 30 percent below the special price offered through the tradeshow sponsors. AAA discounts often work, too.

— Duane Dahl
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Preserve even the small number of frequent-flier miles you may obtain by making occasional use of a particular carrier; the miles can be worth money. Even if you don't regularly fly on Delta, Northwest, Continental, or several other airlines, sign up for their frequent-flier programs when you book a long or overseas flight. Points.com allows you to redeem miles for magazine subscriptions, music downloads, and other products. You can also use miles to get small discounts on purchases at retailers such as Amazon.com.

— Jonelle Niffenegger
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Hotels
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When I called to book a hotel room in Budapest, I was offered a rate of $75 per night. After I told the concierge that I was looking for a room in the $35 range, he agreed to the lower price without much fuss. It sometimes pays to barter.

— Julie Jensen
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Hotels
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A shoe organizer hung over the bathroom door is my solution for hotel-room clutter. The compartments are perfect for stashing everything from room keys and travel documents to toiletries and, of course, shoes. The extra storage space came in especially handy on a recent cruise, when we needed all the room we could get in our tiny cabin.

— Jane Tague
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If you plan to travel to a less-developed country, pack an extra suitcase with hand-me-downs of all sizes. Housekeepers and other resort workers make so little money that the clothes are greatly appreciated. On your way home, you can use that empty suitcase for souvenirs.

— Rebecca Oberg
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I agree that the anti-seasickness medication for cruises, Bonine, is excellent and effective; but there is a budget way to buy it. The primary ingredient in Bonine is meclizine (25 mg). While a package of eight Bonine tablets costs just over $4 at a drugstore, you can buy a bottle of 100 generic meclizine (25 mg) for about the same price. This is an over-the-counter (no prescription needed) item, but you usually have to ask for it at the pharmacy counter.

— Lila Held
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Online check-in isn't just for airlines. After reserving an Alamo car over the Internet, I was offered online check-in just by entering my credit card number and driver's license information for approval. At the airport, following Alamo's instructions, I informed the shuttle-bus driver that I had checked in online and reserved an economy car. I was dropped off in the lot and told to pick whichever car I wanted. I drove it to the exit, where my credit card and driver's license were verified on the computer, and I was done.

— Brad Cook
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Check fares periodically after booking your airfare. The airline may have a sale, and buying new tickets could save you money, even after you pay the change penalty. My wife and I used Travelocity's Fare Finder to pocket $187 each on a recent trip from Seattle to New York City, simply by re-ticketing.

— Doug Rittenhouse
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Pack light, or that great deal you found on airfare won't seem that great. On a Ryanair flight between Glasgow and Dublin, my husband and I were charged over $100 for excess baggage weight (the airline tickets themselves cost less than half that). Be sure to check the weight limits—especially on low-fare airlines—before you leave home.

— Lynne Heath
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When you're shopping for alcohol on any Caribbean island, ask if there's a Kmart nearby. Often the dis- counter is a short distance from the docks where the cruise ships tie up and has an extensive selection at prices lower than the liquor stores on the main drag. While you're there, pick up that extra roll of film or the sunscreen you forgot.

— Andrea Mansfield
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I've discovered a wonderful way to enjoy massages at a fraction of the usual cost. Some massage-training schools provide superb service in a spa-type environment. Do a Google search to see if there are training programs near your next vacation destination.

— Karen Gardiner
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It can be difficult for parents to find a place to bathe their infant while on vacation. Showers obviously won't work, and the miniscule sinks generally found in hotel bathrooms aren't appropriate either. On our last cruise, we eliminated the whole problem by packing a small, inexpensive inflatable bathtub. (Ours cost only $7.99.) When we arrived, we blew it up and placed it in the bottom of the shower for an instant, safe baby bath.

— Maria Diekema-Zuidema
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To save space, pack items for travel that you can use in at least two ways. In a pinch, shampoo can double for detergent when washing your clothes (carry the bottle in a Ziploc bag in your suitcase); sandals or flip-flops also function as slippers; and a swimsuit cover-up can serve as a bathrobe.

— Patricia LaRock
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When traveling with your kids, give each child his or her own small carry-on bag. Fill it with new, surprise treats to occupy the downtime--layovers, long flights, time in hotels--as well as a few familiar items from home. Include a notebook and encourage your child to keep a travel diary.

— Joan White
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When my husband and I travel, we take at least three different credit cards. I carry one he doesn't have, he carries one I don't have, and we both bring our primary card. If one of us has our wallet stolen, we can cancel two cards and still have one to use. We each have different ATM cards, too--useful if a machine doesn't honor one of the cards, or if we need more cash than our daily limit allows.

— Joyce Morden
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Ziploc now makes extra-large bags with handles. They're nearly two feet by two feet, and although Ziploc advertises them as being good for storage, they're also useful for traveling. Bring one on long shopping excursions and then use it as an extra carry-on for souvenirs on the way home.

— Meredith McCulloch
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Dry-cleaning bags stop clothes from wrinkling. Slide each garment into its own bag (leave the hanger at home) and place them flat on your bed, one on top of another. Then carefully fold the entire stack to fit it in your suitcase. Once you get to your hotel, hang everything up as soon as you can. You'll never unpack a suitcase of wrinkled clothes again.

— Claudette Christman
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When I'm on the road, I often have to use the hotel iron before heading out to business meetings. But getting water into the iron can be a hassle--most irons won't fit under the sink faucet, and using a glass to pour water into the tiny hole is nearly impossible without spilling everywhere. There's an easy solution: Use the carafe from the coffee maker. Just be sure the carafe is clean, or you could end up with coffee stains on your clothes.

— Paul Schnebelen
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Accidentally reformat your camera's memory card? As long as you don't overwrite the disk by shooting more photos, those original pictures are still there. Buy another card to use in the meantime, and then, when you get home, either purchase a file-recovery software program (about $35) or take the card to a camera shop and see if someone there can help.

— Julie Mancini
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There's nothing worse than trying to fall asleep under a mosquito net and then realizing that the bugs are finding a way inside. So next time you're heading someplace tropical--where you know you'll be sleeping under mosquito netting--remember to toss a roll of Scotch tape into your suitcase. It's perfect for quick repairs.

— Christopher Swain
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Don't put your magnetic sunglass clip-ons in the same pocket as your mass transit fare cards or hotel key cards. I managed to erase both my subway pass and my hotel key on a recent trip.

— Jim Tichenor
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Create an ID page for each of your children before you leave on a trip. In addition to vacation contact information (hotel name and phone number), include the child's name, a current photo, home address, phone, date of birth, Social Security number, passport number, hair color, eye color, height, any identifying marks, blood type, allergies, medications, doctor and insurance phone numbers and ID numbers, immunization schedule, and fingerprints (these don't change, so investing the time to have a set made is worth it). If the unspeakable happens, the ability to hand over instant, concise information to authorities may prove invaluable. Update it before every trip.

— Robin Flannery
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When my husband and I would stay in a hotel with our two-year-old, a full night's sleep was out of the question. The minute our son opened his eyes (at 2,3,or 4 a.m.), he woke us, thinking it was time to play. We now pack a pop-up tent and set it up in a corner of the hotel room with books, a blanket, and a few small stuffed animals. The tent folds down to a 14-inch circle and weighs about a pound. It works great! My son has his own "room" to sleep in when we vacation, and we all get to sleep through the night!

— Geri Kronyak
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I bought several items while in London and noticed when I returned home that my credit card number was printed in full on each sales slip. (In the United States, usually only the last four digits of the number are visible.) Travelers should be careful when using their credit cards overseas--don't leave the sales slips lying around.

— Jackie MacNeil
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Packing
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When you travel to a beach destination, bring your own snorkel gear. We bought snorkels, masks, and fins at home for half-off (at an end-of-summer sale) before a trip to Hawaii. They didn't take up much room in our luggage, and we would have spent as much or more renting the equipment.

— Keely McNerney

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