Cape Town: The Top 25

How do we love the South African center of surf, sand, and style? Josh Dean counts the ways, in no particular order

A flower seller on Long Street

(Dook)

1. Keys to a mansion

In Tamboerskloof, a warren of streets winding up Signal Hill, dozens of 19th-century mansions have been converted into guesthouses. An African Villa, co-owned by Jimmy van Tonder and Louis Nel, is decorated in a Modern African style; a lamp in the lobby (pictured) is shaped like the head of an oryx, a type of antelope (19 Carstens St., 011-27/21-423-2164, capetowncity.co.za/villa, from $135). Further uphill, 1 on Queens imports Tuscan style with a terra-cotta patio and simple rooms (1 Queens Rd., 011-27/21-422-0004, 1onqueens.co.za, from $80).

2. Regal flora

Cape Town is part of what's called a Floral Kingdom, a region with thousands of plant species that aren't found anywhere else. This kingdom is by far the smallest of the world's six, with more than 5,800 endemic species in a 35,000-square-mile area. The crown jewel is the king protea, an armored tulip that looks like it's been around since the dinosaurs. Most of the foliage, including the protea, comes to life in spring and summer (September through March), though at least one plant from every variety is always on display at Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, on the side of Table Mountain. Rhodes Dr., Newlands, 011-27/21-799-8783, nbi.ac.za/frames/kirstfram.htm, $3.50.

3. When the "tablecloth" suddenly lifts

In a region of fickle weather, there's one thing you can almost always count on: a thick pillow of clouds atop 3,560-foot-tall Table Mountain. The "tablecloth," as locals call it, often lasts for days and then disappears overnight. Keep one eye on the mountain, so you can head up the moment the cloud cover clears. The mountain's website has a ticker with up-to-the-minute visibility news. Tablemountain.net.

4. Cosmic sunsets

In 1997, the cableway that takes visitors up Table Mountain added a twist, literally: The tram slowly revolves as it rises. Hiking trails also wind up through the mountain's crevasses; the Platteklip Gorge path, from Tafelberg Road, was the first known ascent (in 1503), and the two-hour hike is still the easiest way up on foot. The top is cosmic--the gray sandstone plateau looks like the surface of another planet. Expect to reach the summit by sunset, and bring a bottle of wine. (The only restaurant at the top, Dizzie Dazzie, closes before the sunset is over.) Note: Resist the urge to linger. The last tram down follows the final sliver of sun, between 6 p.m. and 10 p.m. depending on the season. 011-27/21-424-8181, tablemountain.net, round trip $17.

5.  The big bang, daily

At noon, a gun goes off on Signal Hill--the blast can be heard all around the city. It was originally intended to herald the arrival of ships into port. Today, it heralds brunch.

6. Snacks with wanderlust

Sold from carts in most neighborhoods and at many 7-Elevens, Cape Town's street food reflects the city's diversity. Try bobotie, a curried mince pie originally made by the Cape Malay people; biltong, a thick South African jerky cured from beef, kudu, or ostrich; and Indian samosas, deep-fried pastry pockets of spicy meats.

7. March of many penguins

A sign on the walk approaching Boulders Beach reads: the easiest place in the world to make the acquaintance of penguins. It's no joke. There's a real colony of more than 4,000 African penguins, waddling around and fishing and paying absolutely no attention to the many pasty sunbathers competing for the sand. 1 Kleintuin Rd., Simon's Town, 011-27/21-786-2329, $2.25.

8. Backseat drivers

Hundreds of minibus taxis hurtle around town, stopping at random to pick up anyone ready for a little risk and a tight squeeze. Flag one almost anywhere (though for safety's sake it's best to stay in well-populated areas), and grab a seat with the other passengers. A guy in the back serves as a sort of carnival barker, shouting out the next stop from an open window. You can figure that most destinations in the city cost under a few bucks. A less alarming way to get oriented is a topless double-decker bus. The bright red Cape Town Explorer buses stop at 15 major attractions--from the city center to the Atlantic beach communities--and allow riders to get on and off at their leisure (011-27/21-511-1784, hyltonross.co.za, full day $14).

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Dining
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Going to a place where you don't speak the language? Take along a picture booklet filled with examples of common food items (chicken, cow, rice, bottled water, coffee, wine, etc.) and use it to find dishes you like—you only have to point to the picture of what you want. We did this during a recent trip to Asia and always had wonderful meals.

— Mario Gonzalez
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Photography
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I enjoy off-peak travel best--rates are cheaper, lines are shorter--but the weather can be iffy. To combat Mother Nature's unpredictability, I always pack a roll or two of black-and-white film. While dreary-day color photos bring only consoling remarks from friends, black-and-white film tends to lend a mystique to gray landscapes and creates some very dramatic Ansel Adams--esque shots.

— Ed Danyo
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Hotels
430316

I was heading to the hotel ice machine when I noticed that our ice bucket was looking very tired and missing its disposable plastic liner. My solution: the shower cap that we never use anyway. In fact, it actually worked better than the liner bag because the elastic band held it in place around the top of the bucket.

— Susan Swickard
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Planning
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Play Let's Make a Deal when you're shopping for vacations at travel shows or expos. Go armed with your own research and a credit card.(You're likely to get a better price if you know what the vacation is worth, and if you're willing to buy it on the spot.) I picked two Caribbean cruises and headed to the New York Times Travel Show. After haggling with the competing cruise lines, I was offered the first cruise for $50 less than the best price I'd found online, and they threw in free trip insurance. In the end, I chose the second—$30 off with a free upgrade to a balcony stateroom—and truly got a bargain.

— Michael Marcarello
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Packing
347245

Shout Wipes take up very little space in your purse or backpack and are invaluable for treating stains. While traveling on an airplane, I gave one to a most grateful Italian after he spilled wine on his tie. Our friendship extended through customs, and we're now e-mail pals. Great stuff!

— Marilyn Rogers
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Packing
386270

Bring your own linens. They're useful in a million different ways. Obviously a soft cotton pillowcase makes those scratchy airplane pillows bearable, but it can also be used to gather loose items when deplaning. A nice sheet will cover up an ugly bedspread or sofa, and makes a great tablecloth or picnic blanket.

— Dori Egan
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Cruises
372300

Make your cabin homier by packing a small collapsible vase and a bouquet of flowers.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Museums
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If your travels take you to U.S. cities large enough to have museums, zoos, and/or botanical gardens, consider buying a membership in your home city's counterpart. Many have reciprocal privileges with institutions elsewhere. A membership at Chicago's Lincoln Park Zoo, for example, lets you see the National Zoo in Washington, D.C., and zoos in Los Angeles, Des Moines, and Jackson, Mississippi, at no charge.

— Alice M. Solovy
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Packing
482607

Every year, I get address labels from numerous charitable organizations. I keep them with me when traveling because it's the quickest way to provide my address to new friends, enter prize drawings at shops, sign guest books, etc. It's not only efficient; it can also help spread the word about worthwhile charities.

— Carole Wilk
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Packing
354252

Pack a travel-size shampoo container refilled with detergent and a one-gallon Ziploc bag for when you need to wash hosiery, bras, and other delicate undergarments. Put a few drops of detergent into the bag and fill it part way with water. Place the garment in the bag, close it up, and shake it around for a few minutes. Instant washing machine! For larger pieces of clothing, I've used the plastic laundry bags supplied at most hotels. Just hold on to the open end tightly.

— Erika Kumada
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Solo Travel
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In areas where the majority of people don't speak English, head to an Internet café. In our experience, they're full of friendly young people anxious to practice their English.

— Christine and Duncan Orr
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Planning
366267

If you book a package over the Internet, print out all the details of what's included and take it with you. When a hotel desk clerk in Paris said that the breakfast buffet we had enjoyed for the previous seven mornings was not included in our package, I was able to show him the printouts and prove him wrong. He apologized profusely and wiped the breakfast charges from our bill.

— John Lavelle
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Planning
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I live in coastal Florida, where the electricity sometimes goes out during violent storms. Before a trip, I place a few ice cubes in a plastic bag and put the bag in the freezer. If the ice has melted and refrozen by the time I get home, I'll know we've had a power outage and that any food left in the refrigerator may be unsafe to consume.

— Brigitte Emick
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Safety
450302

I bought several items while in London and noticed when I returned home that my credit card number was printed in full on each sales slip. (In the United States, usually only the last four digits of the number are visible.) Travelers should be careful when using their credit cards overseas--don't leave the sales slips lying around.

— Jackie MacNeil
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Packing
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If you know you'll be cooking while on vacation, bring along small amounts of the spices you need for your favorite recipes. You'll save by not buying large containers of spices.

— Joan Phillips
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If you plan to visit a theme park, always bring a few sandwich-size Ziploc bags. They'll protect your cell phone and wallet when you're riding on flumes and other water attractions.

— Jack Bell
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Packing
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Recycle the long plastic bags in which you receive your home-delivered newspapers. Slip your shoes into the bags before packing them in your suitcase.

— Robert E. Jones
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Planning
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My friends and I contribute to a kitty and use that money to pay for group expenses such as taxis and meals. It saves us from having to figure out each person's share at every stop. At the end of the trip, we split what remains.

— Carol Moran
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Packing
358282

Bungee cords make versatile travel accessories. They come in handy at the airport for lashing a duffel bag to a wheeled suitcase. They can be hooked together and used as a clothesline for swimsuits, towels, etc. On skiing trips, hook them onto ski boots to create carrying handles. While camping, use them to secure tarps, to suspend a lantern from a nearby tree limb, or to secure items in a canoe. They even hold your pants up if you misplace your belt.

— Keith Saul
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Packing
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Pack a couple of mountaineering carabiners. Clip one through the handle or strap of your bag and secure it to something solid wherever you may be (to a bench in the park or in a train station, to the railing of an overhead compartment on a bus, etc.).The carabiner adds a bit of security, especially if you're snoozing.

— R. Bryan Simon
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Dining
361257

In North American cities with large Chinese communities, choose a family-run Chinese restaurant and ask for the set family meals, usually written in Chinese. They are more authentic than those typically offered to tourists and people who are not Chinese—not to mention a better value. In San Francisco, for example, you can enjoy a five-course meal, which easily feeds a family of four, for less than $20.

— Winston Wong
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Photography
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Create your own postcards by writing on the back of photographs that you've taken and developed while still on your trip.

— Connie Van Brocklin
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Hotels
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The magnets you use on a refrigerator will also stick well to most hotel and motel room doors, turning them into makeshift bulletin boards. Post theater tickets, itineraries, reminder notes, and any other useful information, then grab what you need before you leave the room for the day.

— Karen Hartz
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Car Rentals
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I've saved lots of money using AAA. In addition to providing excellent roadside services (help with stalled cars, lost keys, etc.), most AAA chapters offer discounted tickets to Disney World and a preferred parking pass that enables you to grab specially designated spots near the entrances. It's a dollar saver, and you don't have to walk far or take the trolley in the parks!

— Judy Small
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Hotels
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Cold-weather traveling means turning up the thermostat in your hotel room, and along with the artificially warmed air come dry skin and static electricity. Instead of turning on the heat, fill the bathtub with very hot water and leave the bathroom door open. In about an hour, your entire room will be warm and humidified.

— Susan Mutty
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Packing
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I try to avoid checking any luggage, but the airlines are getting stricter every day about the size and weight of carry-ons. So when I pack, I put any important stuff in a plastic bag and place it in a front pocket. If I'm told to check my carry-on when I get to the gate, I can just pull out the smaller bag and board.

— Alena Kerins
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Photography
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I travel with two cameras: a digital SLR for the majority of my shots, and a small disposable camera for when I ask strangers to take pictures of me. As much as I tend to trust other people, I'm not ready to hand over my $1,000 camera to someone I don't know at all.

— Sam Antonio
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Transportation
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Before traveling by taxi in foreign (or even domestic) locations, ask a local (perhaps stopping in shops to question the sales staff) what the approximate taxi fare would be to a particular location. They've always been pleased to help me. In this manner, I can avoid paying the inflated tourist rates!

— Carol P. McCrea
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Packing
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Dry-cleaning bags stop clothes from wrinkling. Slide each garment into its own bag (leave the hanger at home) and place them flat on your bed, one on top of another. Then carefully fold the entire stack to fit it in your suitcase. Once you get to your hotel, hang everything up as soon as you can. You'll never unpack a suitcase of wrinkled clothes again.

— Claudette Christman
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Technology
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Destinationcoupons.com supplies free discount coupons for cities all over the United States and the world. Print them out on your home computer and save on hotels, shows, rental cars, restaurants, and many other activities.

— Donald Bertolet

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