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The Trouble with Gascony

In the southwest corner of France, there's nothing to do but take a leisurely drive--maybe you'll find an old chateau. The food is too rich, a lot of foie gras and duck confit. No one speaks English, aside from a few Brits buying real estate. In other words, it's perfect. Margie Rynn spotlights five favorite towns.
October 2005 issue |

Activities

  • Château de Duras 011-33/5-53-83-77-32, chateau-de-duras.com, $6



    • SLIDESHOW
    A web-exclusive slideshow of five perfect towns
    • Launch the slideshow

  • Musée-Conservatoire du Parchemin 011-33/5-53-20-75-55, museeduparchemin.com, $7.25

  • Domaine de Durand St. Jean de Duras, 011-33/5-53-89-02-23, domainededurand.com

    • Shopping

  • Saveurs du Terroir 1 place Jean Bousquet, 011-33/5-53-83-72-84

    • Resources

  • Office de Tourisme 14 blvd. Jean-Brisseau, 011-33/5-53-93-71-18, paysdeduras.com

    • Bazas

    Known primarily for its superior breed of cow, Bazas doesn't draw guidebook raves or tour buses. Their loss. The town's cobbled streets and airy public spaces encourage aimless wandering, while shops and monuments provide plenty to do. Historic buildings abound, quiet gardens beckon--and when you're tired of visiting, you can always eat. Bazas offers several delectable restaurants, as well as shops with local products like foie gras, duck confit, Sauternes wine, and of course, marvelous cuts of boeuf de Bazas.

    The town is clustered around a large central square, edged with elegant 16th- and 17th-century town houses under which runs an arcade. Two of the loveliest buildings are the Dutch-style Maison de l'Astronome and the Hôtel d'Andraut, the latter constructed during the reign of Louis XIV. But most impressive is the cathedral, a glorious jumble of Gothic, Renaissance, and neoclassical styles that presides over the main square. A lively farmers' market gathers outside every Saturday morning, where you can pick up delicious saucisson (dried sausage) and crispy apple tarts called croustades--ask the vendor to sprinkle yours with Armagnac, a close cousin of Cognac. Say bonjour to Jé Jé, an apple-cheeked vendor of fresh flowers and produce who sets up his stall just in front of the cathedral, and to the fishmonger, known for his jokes.

    After noodling around the arcade shops--Le Diable Boiteux sells bric-a-brac and used books--take a break at the main café, Le Bistro St-Jean, or around the corner at Café Indigo. The latter is the better lunch option, with contemporary decor and food (sautéed foie gras with mango is a standout). Houn-Barrade, a couple miles away, is run by local farmers who serve hearty regional specialties like blanquette de chevrette (venison). If you're up for a 15-minute drive in the country, the Auberge de Cazalis has an excellent three-course prix fixe for $13, available at both lunch and dinner.

    Note: This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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