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The Trouble with Gascony

In the southwest corner of France, there's nothing to do but take a leisurely drive--maybe you'll find an old chateau. The food is too rich, a lot of foie gras and duck confit. No one speaks English, aside from a few Brits buying real estate. In other words, it's perfect. Margie Rynn spotlights five favorite towns.
October 2005 issue |

Dousud, a farmhouse converted into an idyllic B&B, is home to a diminutive but beautiful pool, a fishing pond, and 23 acres of rolling countryside. Borrow a bike, rent a horse, or just put on your walking shoes and explore. Each of the five cheerful rooms has a private entrance and a terrace; cook your own meals in the communal kitchenette, or join other lodgers for the table d'hôte--a scrumptious dinner cooked by the hosts ($19 extra). A more high-end option on the outskirts is the Domaine de Fompeyre, with lush grounds, two swimming pools, a spa, and a tennis court.

Bazas is a convenient base for visiting three castles, each less than a 15-minute drive away. Villandraut, home of the first French pope, is a moody medieval ruin, while Cazeneuve, onetime residence of randy King Henry IV and his rebellious wife, Queen Margot, is a splendid Renaissance château. Most intriguing is Roquetaillade, a 14th- century fortified castle with crenellated towers and a drawbridge.



SLIDESHOW
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Lodging

  • Dousud Bernos-Beaulac, 011-33/5-56-25-43-23, dousud.fr, $74

  • Domaine de Fompeyre 011-33/5-56-25-98-00, domainedefompeyre.fr, $87

    • Food

  • Le Bistro St-Jean 42 place de la Cathédrale, 011-33/5-56-25-18-53, prix fixe from $12

  • Café Indigo 25 rue Fondespan, 011-33/5-56-25-25-52, prix fixe lunch $14, dinner $32

  • Houn-Barrade Route D932, Cudos, 011-33/5-56-25-44-55, prix fixe from $17

  • Auberge de Cazalis 6 le Bourg, Cazalis, 011-33/5-56-65-33-96

    • Shopping

  • Le Diable Boiteux 43 place de la Cathédrale, 011-33/5-56-65-12-03

    • Note: This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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