The Trouble with Gascony

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Nérac

Henry IV knew how to live. When things got hot in Paris for the future Protestant king, he fled to the family castle in Nérac and created a court-in-exile as flamboyant as the one back at the Louvre. Some of the most famous thinkers and writers of the French Renaissance hung out here, and the castle was abuzz with diplomats and courtesans. If you're going into exile, why not choose an exquisite town in a superb region with some of the country's best food and wine?

The walking tour on the free tourist-office map makes for a handy overview of the town's delights: narrow streets lined with half-timbered houses, open-air cafés on the banks of the pea-green Baïse (bay-EEZ) River, views from the heights of the Petit Nérac quarter, and of course, the elegant archways of the 16th-century château. There's only one wing left of Henry's castle--the French Revolution was rough on anything sporting a coat of arms--but it's impressive. Twisted columns ending in ornately carved capitals extend the length of the upper exterior gallery; downstairs, a series of terraces descends to the river's edge. Inside is a museum dedicated primarily to Henry and his illustrious family, the Albrets, with some added archaeological displays.

For such a small town, there are a lot of restaurants. The two cutest are on the riverbank: Auberge du Pont Vieux and Les Terrasses du Petit Nérac; both also rent rooms. The Auberge, managed by a young English and Dutch couple, Michael and Caroline Hubbard, has three pretty rooms with balconies facing the river. The four rooms at Les Terrasses are less inspired, and only two have river views. Back on the other side of the castle, La Cheminée serves good regional cuisine, including a $12 prix fixe for dinner or lunch.

Or consider renting a houseboat upriver, from Aquitaine Navigation in the town of Buzet, and then drifting your way to Nérac and beyond. Another option is to join an hour-long guided cruise on Le Prince Henry (which also rents boats). At the very least, leave some time for a stroll along the willow-covered banks of the Baïse in the Parc de la Garenne, created for Queen Margot. Fountains babble, sunlight filters through the trees, and you half expect to see a nymph skittering through the underbrush. 

Lodging

Food