Kauai: The Top 25

How do we love Hawaii's greenest slice of paradise? Michael Endelman counts the top 25 ways, in no particular order

Hanalei's is an especially sweet farmer's market

(Amanda Friedman)

1. Fruit loopy

Every day of the week--except on Sundays--there's a farmer's market happening somewhere on the island (for a schedule, see realkauai.com/FarmersMarkets). Hanalei's (pictured) is especially sweet, with dreadlocked, barefoot moms buying lychees, mountain apples, and eggfruits in a pretty jungle clearing. Kuhio Hwy., Tuesdays at 2 p.m.

2. Nature's alarm clock

Legend has it that 1992's Hurricane Iniki freed hundreds of roosters and chickens from their coops. They scattered all over Kauai and started breeding with impunity. Because they don't have any natural predators (Kauai is the only Hawaiian island without mongooses), roosters now roam everywhere, even on the fanciest of golf courses. Regardless of how they managed to get the run of the place, your wake-up call will likely be a feathered friend crowing as soon as the sun rises.

3. Fifty miles of sand

Kauai claims more than 40 white-sand beaches, so you never need to fight for a spot. Many of the established beaches (Poipu, Kee, Lydgate) have changing rooms, bathrooms, and freshwater showers; remote, secluded bays offer a more rustic experience. Just look for a cluster of cars pulled over on the highway--a beach is probably nearby. For descriptions, directions, and safety information, buy a copy of the Kauai Underground Guide (explorekauai.com, $13).

4. Friday night lights

Hanapepe is an oasis of sorts: It's the unofficial art capital of the island and, as a highway sign touts, KAUAI'S BIGGEST LITTLE TOWN. It's no metropolis, but an actual main drag is lined with small shops and art galleries in plantation-era wooden storefronts, and they all stay open until 9 p.m. for a Friday Night Art Walk. That's considered very late in these parts. And, notable for the west side of Kauai, there's some excellent vegetarian food at the Hanapepe Café (3830 Hanapepe Rd., 808/335-5011; reservations essential for dinner Fridays, entrées from $16), best followed by ice-cream at the original location of local favorite Lappert's (1-3555 Kaumualii Hwy., 808/ 335-6121, $3.35 for one scoop).

5. Cottage living

In 1983, the Waimea Sugar Mill Company plantation--on the sleepy west side of Kauai--was turned into a resort. Waimea Plantation Cottages, as it's now known, features 54 spacious, tastefully renovated 1930s-era cottages (each with kitchens, grills, and lanais), as well as five hotel-style rooms and two studios. After a morning of scrambling through Waimea Canyon or hiking the nearby Na Pali Coast, the resort's shaded hammocks are the best possible reward. Note: The surf at the hotel's black-sand beach is too rough for swimming. 9400 Kaumualii Hwy., 808/338-1625, waimea-plantation.com, from $140.

6. All the island's a stage

With scenery like this, it's no wonder that directors favor Kauai when they need a stand-in for an exotic Asian destination or a spooky jungle lair. So many films have been shot here that there's a five-hour minibus tour that points out locations used in South Pacific, Jurassic Park, Honeymoon in Vegas, Blue Hawaii, and other motion pictures. 808/822-1192, hawaiimovietour.com, $101, includes hotel pickup/drop-off and lunch.

7. Five-star sundowners

Don't blow your nest egg on a $500 room: The Princeville Resort's famous view of crescent-shaped Hanalei Bay (with the emerald Bali Hai coast rising above it) is available for $9--the price of a mai tai at the Living Room, Princeville's indoor/outdoor lobby bar. Brilliant purple-orange sunsets bring out the shutterbugs, so get there early for a seat. Live music starts nightly at 7 p.m. 808/826-9644, princeville.com.

8. Hawaii untamed

Kauai's premier attraction is the 15-mile Na Pali Coast, a dramatic stretch in the island's wild northwest corner. Waimea-based Na Pali Explorer leads a five-hour tour on a 48-foot, hard-bottomed Zodiac that's small enough to maneuver into sea caves and isolated snorkeling spots. Upon reaching Na Pali's westernmost point, you'll be dazzled by cliffs, waterfalls, beaches, and emerald valleys. When the captain declares, "Welcome to my office," you'll cry with envy. 808/338-9999, napali-explorer.com, $125.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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My husband packs Q-tips in a plastic cassette case. It's small and snaps shut, keeping the cotton swabs clean and dry.

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I always have problems locating my rental car in a large parking lot. Now I bring along a brightly colored bandanna and tie it to the antenna.

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My husband and I always travel around Europe by train. When we arrive in any city, we first stop at a ticket window and get all the information we'll need for the next leg of our journey. This gives us plenty of time to find an English-speaking ticket agent who'll print out departure times and platform numbers for us. Before leaving the station, we can note the location of the platform we'll be looking for that morning. One wrong move when you're rushing for a train and you could end up in the wrong city!

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I've saved lots of money using AAA. In addition to providing excellent roadside services (help with stalled cars, lost keys, etc.), most AAA chapters offer discounted tickets to Disney World and a preferred parking pass that enables you to grab specially designated spots near the entrances. It's a dollar saver, and you don't have to walk far or take the trolley in the parks!

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Just before a trip to Spain, I emailed myself a list of addresses of the friends and family I might want to email while away. At a cybercafe, I was able to simply cut and paste the list into the address line of a new message.

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Planning
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I teach a Tulane University seminar on independent European travel for first-timers. Until recently, I advocated Europe's great rail networks as the way to go. Now, with the plethora of budget airlines, I recommend a combination of the two. But it makes the planning stage—which I find almost as much fun as actually taking the trip—more involved. Thank goodness for whichbudget.com, a Web site that lists, by city, which budget airlines serve which cities. Then, to find links to all of Europe's state railway Web sites, visit railfaneurope.net. Each site generally features a travel planner and, almost invariably, an English-language option.

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I travel with a mailing tube in my suitcase because I often buy paintings, drawings, and maps. My souvenirs always arrive home safe and sound. I just leave the mailing tube in my suitcase until the next trip.

— Abbie-Stuart Fox
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Photography
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Carry a Polaroid camera when traveling to developing countries. In Cambodia, several village children gathered around us, posed enthusiastically for pictures, and were fascinated by their images in our digital camera. We wanted to send them the pictures, but they were unable to tell us their address. Polaroids would have solved the problem!

— Cynda Perun
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Hotels
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If you can't sleep due to the heat in your non-air-conditioned hotel room, take a cold bottle of water and place it on your pillow, in the crook of your neck. It will cool your whole body down.

— Tony van Hasselt
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Before exchanging foreign currency at the airport, find out if there's a departure tax. At the Bangkok airport, we were very upset- as were travelers around us- to find we had to pay a fee before continuing to our gate. Unfortunately, by that point everyone had cashed in their baht, so the options were a conveniently located ATM, a credit card, or an exchange booth with notably poor rates. When we described this incident to friends, they told us of a similar experience when trying to leave the Dominican Republic.

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Before booking your next ski trip or reserving a table for dinner, find out what your credit card company has to offer. American Express sometimes has discounts on lift tickets; MasterCard has offered buy-one-get-one-free at local restaurants; and Discover Card has access to deals to Universal Studios. Check out americanexpress.com/offerzone, mastercard.com (be sure to click on Promotions), and discovercard.com.

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Be certain to have enough blank pages in your passport. Someone I know had a terrible time getting per- mission to board a flight from Zambia to South Africa because she didn't have the two blank passport pages required to enter South Africa. Thank goodness my husband had read about the requirement. Before the trip, we sent our passports to the center in Charleston and had extra pages added at no charge.

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— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Once we know where we're going, my girlfriends and I divide up the list of things we'd like to do on our trip and put someone in charge of each item on the list. Then that person does the legwork by finding directions and prices, making reservations (if necessary), and researching nearby places to stop for a snack or a meal. Our method means that no one person is doing all the planning.

— Carol J. Leisch
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If you book a package over the Internet, print out all the details of what's included and take it with you. When a hotel desk clerk in Paris said that the breakfast buffet we had enjoyed for the previous seven mornings was not included in our package, I was able to show him the printouts and prove him wrong. He apologized profusely and wiped the breakfast charges from our bill.

— John Lavelle
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On international flights, I used to fumble through my belongings--often having to retrieve them from the overhead bin--after a flight attendant appeared with customs and immigration forms. (I don't know of many people who have their passport's number and date of issue memorized.) Now I write all that info on the bookmark of whatever I plan to read on the long flight so I don't have to dig out my passport. I can fill out the card quickly--giving me more time to loan my pen to all the people who never seem to carry one.

— Bill Serues
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Tired of catching colds while traveling? Take along a travel-size package of Clorox wipes. Disinfect the tray table and armrests on the airplane, and the telephone and TV remote in your hotel room.

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If you're traveling overseas, be sure to check the fine print concerning passports (go online or call the country's embassy). I had three months before my passport expired and found out at the last minute that I needed six months' leeway to enter Tahiti. Luckily, I was able to get a new passport just in time for my vacation.

— Jean Schwinn
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Whenever I know I'll be renting a car, I pack a couple of folded paper towels and two small spray bottles--one filled with window cleaner and the other with Rain-X, a product that repels raindrops. It's hard enough driving an unfamiliar car in an unfamiliar location. At least with a clean windshield I'm able to see properly, no matter the weather.

— Ed Rainer
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— Brian Berg
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When I called to book a hotel room in Budapest, I was offered a rate of $75 per night. After I told the concierge that I was looking for a room in the $35 range, he agreed to the lower price without much fuss. It sometimes pays to barter.

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— Melissa Coplak
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— Christine Size
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Use the shoeshine mitt often found in hotel bath- rooms to store your sunglasses. They fit nicely inside the pouch, and when you take them out, you have a soft material to clean them with. For extra protection while traveling, I store my sunglasses inside the shoe-shine mitt, fold the end closed, and then place it in my glasses case.

— Dan Coviello
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If you get lost on a ship, remember that most share a common layout. The lido-deck buffet restaurant, for example, will almost always be in the back to accommodate comfortable outdoor seating in the least windy part of the ship, while the lounge/theater will be in the front because wind is not a factor (there are no windows).

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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A simple but effective anti-pickpocketing measure is to fasten a safety pin across the opening of the pants pocket on the inside. Leave enough room to pull your wallet out with some effort, but not enough for a quick hand to lift it in a second or two.

— Rusty Cartmill
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Don't put your magnetic sunglass clip-ons in the same pocket as your mass transit fare cards or hotel key cards. I managed to erase both my subway pass and my hotel key on a recent trip.

— Jim Tichenor
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Before you leave the United States, photocopy receipts for any expensive items you're taking with you. This way, you won't have to argue with customs on the way home about declaring items you didn't buy abroad. (I'm a photographer, and I always bring expensive cameras on vacations.)

— Derrick Du
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Though they're often the best deals around, don't assume that packaged vacations always offer the biggest bang for your buck. My wife and I were ready to book an air/hotel package to Maui when we noticed a sale on Aloha Airlines ($280 round trip from Oakland). I added up the total cost of the trip if purchased separately and saved $400 over comparable packages from various tour operators. We used the extra money to stay in a nicer hotel and to rent a convertible!

— Kleem Chaudhary

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