13. King Kong

Browse for minimalist, Asian-style housewares at Kong Lung Co., which describes itself as a "Pacific Rim emporium" (Lighthouse Rd., Kilauea, 808/828-1822). The adjoining boutique, Cake, might be the only place in Kauai where fashionistas can feel truly comfortable (808/828-6412). Just down the road in Hanalei, the Yellowfish Trading Co. sells a mix of vintage beach-inspired furnishings, kitschy exotica, and aloha shirts (Hanalei Center, 808/826-1227).

Hanalei's is an especially sweet farmer's market (Amanda Friedman) [enlarge photo] NOVEMBER 2005 ISSUE • Ghosts of the Sierra Madre • Kauai: The Top 25 • When Everybody's an Expert, Who Can You Trust? • Rome Sweet Rome • Chains Giving Away Wi-Fi • The Sea Islands • Turkish Hostels Are Going to New Heights MORE ON HAWAII • The Real Hawaii • The Big Island's Big Budget Road Trip • Hawaii • 'I'm Finally Going to Hawaii. What Should I Do There?' • Kauai: The Top 25 • Family Hawaii • Hawaiian Fun, Hold the Beach

14. Condomania

The south side of the island has plenty of giant resorts and chain hotels, but 65 percent of repeat visitors gravitate toward cottage or condo rentals. A condo is almost a necessity on the North Shore, where it can be difficult to nail down a hotel room for under $200. Regency Pacific Realty is a good place to begin looking; it represents lots of North Shore properties, including condos beginning at $99, and most important, it has a website with up-to-date photos and virtual tours of every rental. 800/826-7782, regencypacificrealty.com.

15. Hello, Mrs. Chips

In a dilapidated Hanapepe house, Shizuko Nagamine and her son, Dale, hand-fry taro, sweet-potato, and potato chips to a perfect crisp. Bet you can't eat just one (bag, that is). Taro Ko Chips factory, 3940 Hanapepe Rd., 808/335-5586, $2.50.

16. Summer school

Plenty of tourists attempt to live out their Endless Summer fantasies by taking two-hour lessons at easy-going Poipu Beach (Kauai Surf School, 808/651-6032, kauaisurfschool.com; $75, includes surfboard rental). Those who'd rather try windsurfing can opt for three hours with Celeste Harvel, who has 25 years of teaching experience and the tan to prove it. "The most important thing is that you won't embarrass yourself," she says at the beginning of the lesson at the North Shore's Anini Beach, which has a shallow, sandy bottom and a steady wind. Two hours later, the entire class is smoothly skipping across the bay, while Harvel scoots around giving pointers with her dog, Kahili, riding shotgun on her board (Windsurf Kauai, 808/828-6838, $85, includes equipment rental).

17. The bright side

You don't get a nickname like the Garden Island without plenty of rain. Even in the drier summer months an afternoon shower is common, but don't let it bum you out--the drops won't come down for more than 30 minutes. Stronger storms do occur in the winter, but even then, an hour's drive to the opposite shore will usually find sunny, clear skies.

18. Poke dokey

The raw-fish dish poke--pronounced po-keh--is a revelation to anyone who thinks Hawaiian food begins with sour poi (fermented mashed taro) and ends with dry, salty kalua pig. Meaning "to slice" or "cut" in Hawaiian, poke is similar to seviche, consisting of raw fish mixed with marinade and spices. The typical version features tuna cubes with soy sauce, chili pepper, seaweed, roasted kukui nuts, and green onions, but even supermarket deli counters have new-school versions throwing in everything from octopus to kimchi to oysters. Then there are the ahi nachos at Hukilau Lanai, which slickly represent Hawaii's cross-cultural Asian-Californian fusion: Ahi poke is layered with crunchy wonton chips, avocado, and wasabi dressing. Kauai Coast Resort, 4-484 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa, 808/822-0600, $11.