TRIP COACH

Europe

Two friends fought forest fires in order to fund a month of backpacking around the U.K., Ireland, and possibly Italy

Sara Murdock, near her home in Idaho. Her friend Beth Hicken didn't make the photo shoot because she was fighting a wildfire (Angela Smith)

The two 24-year-olds, who live in a small town in Idaho that's actually called Small, planned on traveling in the fall. "My only experience out of the States was four hours in Niagara Falls," said Beth, "which I don't think really counts." Sara's lone venture overseas was a three-week trip last year to London and Paris. "I just want to go back," said Sara. "And I want Beth to go because it's so exciting and so different." They had their minds set on England, but hoped to see Scotland and Ireland, perhaps Italy. "We'll have to face the real world when we return," said Beth, who wants to be a social worker, while Sara plans on a career as a fire ecologist.

Money was their biggest concern. "The funds are looking slim," said Beth. They had a budget of $2,000 per person, not including airfare. "We'll stay in hostels and are willing to camp--anything to save a few bucks if that means we can travel more. We're trying to go for at least four weeks, but we're not coming back until the money runs out."

Beth and Sara are flying into London, and we recommended two hostels in the city: the HI City of London hostel, near St. Paul's Cathedral, and The Generator, an 800-bed independent hostel near the British Museum. Hostels aren't the only option, however. Bed-and-breakfasts are everywhere in Europe, including big cities such as London, where a double can cost as little as $50. Hundreds of B&Bs can be found on official tourism sites, such as visitbritain.com and ireland.ie, as well as independent sources such as bedbreak.com and (for Italy) bbitalia.it. Rooms in private flats or homes are sometimes even more affordable. (Local tourist offices usually keep lists.) Another possibility is couchsurfing.com, a network of travelers looking to crash for free on strangers' sofas. "I think we'd be willing to give that a try," said Beth.

"I'd love to see a play in London," said Beth. "How far ahead do you have to get the tickets?" Penny-pinchers buy seats at the very last minute, when they're discounted up to 50 percent at the TKTS booth in Leicester Square. There's no telling what'll be sold out, but on the day we checked, the hits A Few Good Men ($41), Twelfth Night ($27), and Phantom of the Opera ($70) were available.

London is perhaps the best city in the world for free museums and sights. A section of visitlondon.com lists all the spots offering free admission, including the British Museum and the National Gallery. Plenty of activities are free, too: attending sessions of Parliament in Westminster; hearing classical concerts at the church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields; hanging around Hyde Park's Speaker's Corner on a Sunday to listen to anyone with a gripe, anecdote, or political point harangue the crowds.

"I loved shopping in London," said Sara. "There's nothing like it--especially not in Idaho!" Beth and Sara will go on the hunt for souvenirs at the city's markets, including Petticoat Lane (daily except Saturday), and the half-dozen loosely connected flea markets known as Camden Markets (daily).

After London, Sara and Beth will use rail passes to explore England and Scotland (see Surprise! on p. 20). On long-haul journeys within Europe, flying is the least expensive option, thanks to no-frills airlines such as Ryanair and EasyJet. "I've heard that they say the fare is $40," said Beth, "but then charge $100 in taxes. Is that what it's really like?" Taxes and airport fees usually add on a reasonable $10 to $30 each way. None of the Ryanair flights we suggested will bust the girls' budgets: Edinburgh to Dublin for $28, Dublin to Rome for $48, and Pisa back to London for $28. The only complication is that low-cost carriers have strict baggage limits and charge steep rates for excess luggage, so we warned the women to read the fine print and pack light.

Using BritRail passes, Sara and Beth will head to Bath, where they can indulge in their shared obsession. "We're both big Jane Austen fans," admits Beth. "It's sappy, but true." Austen lived in Bath for several years, and on Saturdays and Sundays the Jane Austen Centre runs walking tours past the settings in Persuasion and Northanger Abbey.

Rather than focusing on the cities as on her last trip, Sara was intent on "getting out into the countryside to see what the locals are like, and see landscapes." Beth wholeheartedly agreed. "We're bringing our hiking boots," she said. We knew just where they should point those boots: the Lake District of northern England. It's one of Britain's premier walking destinations, mixing beautiful hills with the occasional ancient Celtic site or medieval castle. And the next country inn or village pub is never more than a couple of hours' hike away.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Safety
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Paramedics now look for emergency contact information in victims' mobile phones. Store the word "ICE" (In Case of Emergency) in your address book, along with the name and number of the person you'd like emergency personnel to call on your behalf. (For more than one entry, use ICE1, ICE2, etc.) Tell your friends or family members that you've chosen them as your contacts and make sure they're aware of any medical conditions or allergies that could affect your treatment.

— Cindy Nguyen
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Planning
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Before traveling overseas, look at your health insurance card. If it only shows an 800 or 888 number for precertification of hospital admissions, call that number and obtain the local number with an area code. Many 800 numbers can't be dialed from foreign countries. I learned this the hard way during an emergency hospital admission in Switzerland. The delay in reaching my carrier could have been avoided.

— Chris Carveth
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Air Travel
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Don't settle for the first answer to your travel question. If you need flight information, it's a good idea to phone the airline more than once and ask the same question. Recently, I wanted to see if I could fly standby on an earlier flight the same day. The first time I called, I was told that the earlier flight was booked. The second time, however, an agent said there were in fact seats available, and I could certainly fly standby. In the end, not only was I able to get on the flight, but I was upgraded to first class.

— Lynn Babcock
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Packing
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My husband packs Q-tips in a plastic cassette case. It's small and snaps shut, keeping the cotton swabs clean and dry.

— Nancy Bastian
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Air Travel
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On international flights, I used to fumble through my belongings--often having to retrieve them from the overhead bin--after a flight attendant appeared with customs and immigration forms. (I don't know of many people who have their passport's number and date of issue memorized.) Now I write all that info on the bookmark of whatever I plan to read on the long flight so I don't have to dig out my passport. I can fill out the card quickly--giving me more time to loan my pen to all the people who never seem to carry one.

— Bill Serues
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Planning
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Before leaving on a trip, I print the names and addresses of my friends and family onto clear mailing labels. (All standard word-processing programs have preset templates for creating address labels.) Then, I take the address-label sheets with me on vacation. Since the addresses are already saved in my computer and the mailing labels are adhesive, addressing postcards has become really easy.

— Lisa Higgins
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Planning
374275

You can enjoy free airport-area parking by staying the night before departure at an airport hotel or motel that offers park-and-fly rates. The cost of that overnight (which usually entitles you to two weeks of parking) is much less than what you'd otherwise pay at an airport parking lot.

— Mike Saloudek
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Planning
366274

Before exchanging foreign currency at the airport, find out if there's a departure tax. At the Bangkok airport, we were very upset- as were travelers around us- to find we had to pay a fee before continuing to our gate. Unfortunately, by that point everyone had cashed in their baht, so the options were a conveniently located ATM, a credit card, or an exchange booth with notably poor rates. When we described this incident to friends, they told us of a similar experience when trying to leave the Dominican Republic.

— Parisa Montazeri
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Technology
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When overseas, I carry a "cheat sheet" that includes exchange rates and metric conversions. Currency conversions are available at oanda.com.

— Carol Vela
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Air Travel
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If you've accumulated more souvenirs on your trip than you can carry, drive your rental car up to curbside check-in, then return the vehicle and come back on the shuttle bus with only your carry-on. This only works if there's no check-in line, but can save dragging your luggage onto the shuttle bus, across parking lots, etc.

— Robyn Volkening
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Photography
369271

Put an address label on your one-time-use camera. At a Final Four game in Indianapolis, we exchanged identical Kodak Fun Savers with another traveler so that we could take souvenir photos of each other with our respective cameras. But afterward, we couldn't tell whose camera was whose. Luckily, I remembered how many exposures remained on mine, so we got ours back. Next time, I'll just label it.

— Matthew Richard
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Air Travel
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It's often cheaper to buy a ticket to London and then fly onward within Europe via a regional low cost airline. Last summer, my husband and I bought consolidator tickets to London for $397. From there, we flew EasyJet to Nice for $72. The total cost was $469—much less than flying directly to Nice, plus we enjoyed a stopover in London.

— Jasmine Tata
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Air Travel
374258

Pack light, or that great deal you found on airfare won't seem that great. On a Ryanair flight between Glasgow and Dublin, my husband and I were charged over $100 for excess baggage weight (the airline tickets themselves cost less than half that). Be sure to check the weight limits—especially on low-fare airlines—before you leave home.

— Lynne Heath
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Hotels
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I was heading to the hotel ice machine when I noticed that our ice bucket was looking very tired and missing its disposable plastic liner. My solution: the shower cap that we never use anyway. In fact, it actually worked better than the liner bag because the elastic band held it in place around the top of the bucket.

— Susan Swickard
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Packing
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If you have to save receipts while traveling, purchase a plastic coupon holder to help you keep track of them (it'll also protect them). Label each section of the coupon holder by category (hotel, rental car, gas, food, etc.) or by day of the week. The coupon holders are compact and easily fit into a laptop case, purse, or travel bag.

— Ursalene Davis
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Cruises
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Cruise lines offer packaged side trips at their ports of call. If you go online and look for these expeditions ahead of time, you can book directly with the tour companies and save money.

— Cindy Rucker
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Packing
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A small compass is a great travel aid. Aside from the obvious benefits during country drives or hikes, it's extremely helpful in navigating winding city streets and orienting yourself once you exit a subway station.

— William Schaeffer
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Solo Travel
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When I travel to a new city, I check with the local running club to see if there are any events planned during my stay. The entry fee is usually donated to a charity, and I get great exercise, meet locals, and tour a part of the city I may not have known about.

— Kelly Christensen
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Packing
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If the zipper on your luggage or your clothing is giving you any trouble, rubbing some lip balm or candle wax onto the teeth should loosen it.

— Marko Anderson
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Technology
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Just before a trip to Spain, I emailed myself a list of addresses of the friends and family I might want to email while away. At a cybercafe, I was able to simply cut and paste the list into the address line of a new message.

— Rita Young
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Technology
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Before traveling to any city, do a search on the Internet of the city name and the word "coupon" ("New Orleans coupon"). You will find many sites offering two-for-one, percentage-off, and dollar-off discounts. On a recent trip to St.Louis, we saved $100 at restaurants and attractions.

— Carolyn J. Kubacki
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Cruises
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If you even manage to get a cell signal while at sea, your roaming charges will be outrageous. To communicate with your cabinmates, leave Post-it Notes on your door detailing where you'll be throughout the day.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Planning
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We're active travelers but find guided bike tours from companies like Backroads too expensive. Our advice: After rolling into town, ask at a bike shop for the best routes. Better yet, call or e-mail before you leave home (search the Web). We've found group rides and races this way, and have made a lot of friends. We're instant locals!

— Glenn and Michelle Schultes
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Planning
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Before you head to the airport, stop by the front desk of your hotel or cruise ship and ask if they'll print your boarding pass for you. It'll save Internet browsing fees and time at check-in. It's worked for me at several Marriott hotels and on a Celebrity cruise.

— Rose Jakubaszek
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Road Trips
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I take each of my grandchildren on a road trip the summer each turns twelve. The trips range in length from two weeks to a month and require careful packing. I've learned to put our clothes and any snack items we'll need in large plastic bins that fit in the back of my minivan. We each bring a small bag and pack it every evening with items we'll need for that night and the next day: no lugging heavy suitcases in and out of motels or hotels.

— Patsy Maddox
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Photography
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Carry a Polaroid camera when traveling to developing countries. In Cambodia, several village children gathered around us, posed enthusiastically for pictures, and were fascinated by their images in our digital camera. We wanted to send them the pictures, but they were unable to tell us their address. Polaroids would have solved the problem!

— Cynda Perun
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Planning
360270

I've created files--some general (Southeast Asia), some specific (Hawaii)--for articles and clippings about places I'd like to visit in the future. I don't want all the good tips, restaurant recommendations, and out-of-the-ordinary itineraries to go to waste just because I'm not planning an immediate trip. The files don't have to be super organized--just throw in the clippings, and you can weed through them later. You'll be glad you have the information when you do get a chance to go away.

— Christine Size
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Planning
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Love researching your destination online, but don't know how to organize all those printouts, maps, guidebooks, and tips? I get a 5 x 7" spiral notebook (Mead makes one with a sturdy cover and a pocket insert), a set of index tabs, and some glue. Divide the notebook into sections with the tabs (sights, maps, currency converter, restaurants, etc.). Photocopy—in reduction mode—all the info you want to bring, and glue it into the appropriate section. I leave plenty of pages for my journals. This creates an all-in-one personal guide that you can read again years after your trip!

— Michele Graves
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Family Travel
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When traveling with your kids, give each child his or her own small carry-on bag. Fill it with new, surprise treats to occupy the downtime--layovers, long flights, time in hotels--as well as a few familiar items from home. Include a notebook and encourage your child to keep a travel diary.

— Joan White
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Planning
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When we visit places we think we might return to, we collect copies of free tourist magazines. At home, we write the address of each magazine on a postcard. Six to eight weeks before our return visit, we send out the cards asking for a current copy. The magazines are full of useful information.

— F. Richard Leininger

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