Eat Like a Local: Tel Aviv

From matzo balls and kreplach to lemongrass-infused bouillabaisse, Tel Aviv is enthusiastic about all food, downhome and upscale. How enthusiastic? We can sum it up in a detail: locals call the @ sign a 'strudel'

Manta Ray, on Alma Beach. Right: Drum fish sashimi with eggplant salad at Mika (Q. Sakamaki / Redux)

Tel Avivians are eternal optimists. Give us the sun, a good cup of coffee, and the company of friends, and we're happy. Give us a plate of food, and we're transcendent.

Maybe it's all the caffeine. Café culture is an integral part of life here, and the city is brimming with local chains, such as Espresso Bar. The most popular order is a café hafuch ("upside-down coffee"), another name for cappuccino. Locals linger for hours, talking to friends at their table or on the other end of the cell phone--often both at the same time. At Espresso Bar's newest branch on Dizengoff Street, one of the city's main thoroughfares, you'll be hard-pressed to find a free table on Fridays, especially between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m., peak time to schmooze before Shabbat dinner.

Open 24 hours, Brasserie M&R is popular for late-night cocktails. Its best bargain, however, is Friday or Saturday brunch, when $10-$13 gets you a cocktail; a basket of hot-from-the-oven rolls and muffins; your favorite coffee drink; and eggs Benedict, gravlax blini, pancakes, or porridge.

There are countless hummus joints where the service is fast, the food is cheap, and the process of eating is part of the fun. Ali Karavan, also known as Abu Hassan, is a classic hole-in-the-wall three miles down the coast in Jaffa, technically part of Tel Aviv. The entire menu consists of masabacha (chickpeas in warm hummus-tahini sauce), labaneh (a soft cheese made out of yogurt), and hummus with or without ful (slow-cooked fava beans). Each item costs $2.50, and all orders come with pita bread, raw onions, and a piquant lemon-garlic sauce on the side. To eat, tear off a piece of pita and wipe up hummus from the outside in; alternate with bites of onion, and never use a fork. Ali Karavan is open every day except Saturday (Shabbat), from 8 a.m. until the day's hummus runs out, usually mid-afternoon.

The deck at Manta Ray has a prime view of the Mediterranean coastline and the minarets in Jaffa. The food is equally awesome. Grilled fillet of drum fish--a type of Mediterranean fish similar to bass--is accompanied by mango chutney, Dijon mustard, and pesto ($19). You could make a whole meal of Manta Ray's small plates; they vary by season, and may include bulgur; chopped mango; fresh spinach and shrimp; or figs baked with feta. They're usually about $3 each.

Eight years ago, chef Mika Sharon, a graduate of the French Culinary Institute in New York City, opened the trendy restaurant Mika. Her cooking is a fusion of French, Italian, and Asian. Take Bouillabaisse Mika--a seasonal lemongrass-and-ginger-infused soup of calamari, blue crab, shrimp, and fresh-caught Mediterranean fish such as grouper, sea bream, or red snapper ($20). "Business lunches" are always a better deal than ordering à la carte--some are available as late as 6 p.m., and you don't need a briefcase to qualify. At Mika, the business lunch includes a choice of first course, second course, and soda for $18. Mika's secondary draw is its location, a few blocks from Rothschild Boulevard, which has some fine examples of 1930s Bauhaus architecture.

Fusion, schmusion--on weekends, Tel Avivians miss their mothers. At Batia, locals get their fix of Ashkenazi comfort food, one of the many ethnic cuisines in and around the city. Batia excels at Ashkenazi signatures like creamy chopped liver; chicken soup with kneidalach (matzo balls) or kreplach (Jewish ravioli); sweet-and-sour stuffed cabbage; and Polish-style, slightly sweet gefilte fish (each dish is around $3). Crispy schnitzel--deep-fried, breaded chicken cutlets--are every Israeli child's idea of paradise ($10). On Friday and Saturday, the restaurant also serves cholent, a traditional, slow-cooked, bean-and-barley dish with meat and potatoes that sticks to your ribs from the beginning of Shabbat until Sunday. Prices range from $5 to $10.50, depending on whether you want it plain, with extra meat, or with kishke--you don't want to know what that is, just eat it, it's good.

For another example of comfort food, Gueta, a family restaurant in Jaffa, has consistently delicious regional cooking from Libya. Start with an assortment of dishes like cherchi (a spicy condiment of pureed pumpkin), pickled vegetables, preserved lemons, olives, and filfelchuma (garlic-hot pepper sauce), which cost $1.30 per person for a combination of three to four plates. Gueta is helmed by Leah Gueta, the matriarch, who makes couscous daily. Her couscous complet ($10) comes with three different sauces that have simmered for hours over a low flame: tibeha bil'salk (spinach, white beans, and beef); tibeha bil camun (kidney beans and beef in cumin-spiced tomato sauce); and brudu (vegetable soup).

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Carry a twist tie in your wallet. Among other ingenious uses, a twist tie can temporarily replace a lost screw on a pair of glasses. Just peel the paper or plastic off the tie so you have bare wire, insert it where the screw once was, and twist to tighten. Unlike Scotch tape or a safety pin, a twist tie is small enough to remain hidden and strong enough to hold until you're able to replace the screw.

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When planning a vacation, we send away for brochures from major tour operators. They provide hotel and restaurant recommendations and sightseeing itineraries, which we then duplicate on our own. Use this trick to mimic the vacation packages of high-end tour operators for what can turn out to be a fraction of the cost.

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When I travel with friends, we decide ahead of time who's going to bring what. If we're sharing a suite or have adjoining rooms, we don't need multiple hair dryers and umpteen bottles of shampoo. With the weight limits on baggage, we'll need the extra space in our suitcases for souvenirs!

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I always have problems locating my rental car in a large parking lot. Now I bring along a brightly colored bandanna and tie it to the antenna.

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I never leave home without dental floss. I've used it as a clothesline between tents in Botswana's Okavango Delta and to replace a lost screw for my sunglasses in Malaysia. I even cut off a piece of floss the size of my waist and headed to the night markets in Bangkok. My "tape measure" assured a perfect fit!

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When you go to a convention or trade show, don't assume that the official prices at recommended hotels are the best you can do. Go to the hotel Web site. I recently got an AARP rate at a major hotel that was 30 percent below the special price offered through the tradeshow sponsors. AAA discounts often work, too.

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Whenever I know I'll be renting a car, I pack a couple of folded paper towels and two small spray bottles--one filled with window cleaner and the other with Rain-X, a product that repels raindrops. It's hard enough driving an unfamiliar car in an unfamiliar location. At least with a clean windshield I'm able to see properly, no matter the weather.

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