Paris: Sleep

THE LOUVRE AND WESTERN PARIS

Hôtel du Champ de Mars
7 rue du Champ de Mars, 01/45-51-52-30, hotel-du-champ-de-mars.com
Expect a quaint, vaguely 1970s vibe and midsize rooms at this underpriced charmer in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. The hotel is around the corner from rue Cler, a colorful, bustling street crammed with little shops-a plus in a district with a less-than-vibrant street life. Doubles from E79.

THE LOUVRE AND WESTERN PARIS

Hôtel Étoile Péreire
146 boulevard Péreire, 01/42-67-60-00, etoilepereire.com
Discreetly swank, and a 15-minute stroll from the Arc de Triomphe. All 26 rooms are individually decorated to evoke a certain design era (art deco, Rm. 409) or place (India, Rm. 306). Quiet is assured: Rooms with upholstered walls open to an airy courtyard, with the exception of Rm. 101, which is soundproof but doesn't open to the outdoors. Doubles from E119.

MONTMARTRE

Hôtel du Commerce
34 rue des Trois-Frères, 01/42-64-81-69
Comfortable, sunny rooms with crisp white linens for prices that haven't kept up with the times. A nearby staircase leads up to Sacré-Coeur. Doubles from E20.

MONTMARTRE

L'Ermitage Hôtel
24 rue Lamarck, 01/42-64-79-22, ermitagesacrecoeur.fr
This compact and alluring mansion-with flowery, dollhouse-style furniture-has a low-tech credo: no TV, Internet, or credit cards. Top-floor rooms in back have city views; ground-floor rooms open onto a small garden terrace. Doubles from E88.

MONTMARTRE

Le Village Hostel
20 rue d'Orsel, 01/42-64-22-02, villagehostel.fr
The best bargain in town, and justifiably popular with the international backpacker set, who also come here for the convivial atmosphere. The colorful frescoed lobby has Internet access and serves as a meeting place for parties and a spot to plan outings. Its terrace offers views of Sacré-Coeur. Note: All bathrooms are communal. Rates include continental breakfasts. Doubles from E23 per person in low season, E27 in high. Dorm-room rates (four-six beds) start at E20.

MONTPARNASSE

Hôtel Ferrandi
92 rue du Cherche-Midi, 01/42-22-97-40
A Left Bank jewel, just minutes by foot to the understated elegance of the St-Germain shopping district. Each room offers a different fin-de-siècle decor (canopy beds, chandeliers, and colorful, patterned wallpaper). Doubles from E130.

MONTPARNASSE

Hôtel Mayet
3 rue Mayet, 01/47-83-21-35, mayet.com
Between rue du Cherche-Midi, a quiet street lined with antiques shops, and rue des Sèvres, the site of the famous Le Bon Marché department store. Cheery accents in the 23 ultramodern rooms include paintings and broad stripes on the walls. Aim high: Rooms on the top floor have inwardly sloping walls. Doubles from E110.

NOTRE-DAME

Hôtel Esmeralda
4 rue St-Julien-le-Pauvre, 01/43-54-19-20
A honeycomb of rooms with sloping eaves and charmingly uneven floors. There are no TVs or Internet connections, but modern conveniences would clash with the appealing rough-hewn stone walls and wood beams. Views of Notre-Dame (from the most expensive rooms only). Doubles from E65.

NOTRE-DAME

Shakespeare and Company
37 rue de la Bûcherie, 01/43-25-40-93, shakespeareco.org
This jumbled, nook-and-cranny American bookshop calls itself a "tumbleweed hotel" for literary travelers. To get a free rumpled bed or bench among the stacks, tell Sylvia Whitman, or her 91-year-old, cantankerous, living-legend father George Whitman, about the book you're reading or writing. The weekly pancake breakfasts and tea parties are free, too.

SPLURGE

Relais-Hôtel du Vieux Paris
9 rue Gît-le-Coeur, 01/44-32-15-90, vieuxparis.com
Beatniks like Allen Ginsberg, Gregory Corso, and William Burroughs slept under this St-Michel roof in the 1950s. (Ask to see the sublime photographs in the hotel's treasured copy of Harold Chapman's out-of-print book The Beat Hotel.) Rooms are small with ornate wall fabrics and exposed original beams. Doubles from E200.

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL

The short-term apartment rental agencies that clutter the Internet charge upwards of E100 a night (in the Marais or St-Germain, for example) and can be a good alternative to staying in a hotel. Here are three agencies that are user-friendly: parisapartmenttours.com, parisrentaparts.com, locaflat.com. You could also consider living with a Parisian for a few days. Most plan to rent a room for a few months or more, but many are happy to let their room for a few days while waiting to find the right longer-term flatmate. E20-E30 per night. Find listings at coloc.fr, expatriates.com, fusac.fr, and paris.craigslist.com.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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Family Travel
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Give your children a coach's whistle in case they get lost; put it on a ribbon so they can wear it around their neck. The piercing sound may be annoying, but you'll definitely find them quicker!

— Chandra Huang
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Air Travel
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Don't settle for the first answer to your travel question. If you need flight information, it's a good idea to phone the airline more than once and ask the same question. Recently, I wanted to see if I could fly standby on an earlier flight the same day. The first time I called, I was told that the earlier flight was booked. The second time, however, an agent said there were in fact seats available, and I could certainly fly standby. In the end, not only was I able to get on the flight, but I was upgraded to first class.

— Lynn Babcock
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Hotels
425354

If you're traveling solo and your room has a double bed, sleep on the side farthest from the phone. It's slept on less frequently and is therefore more comfortable.

— Ruth Schnur
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Planning
364249

Don't be too quick to grab one of those GST tax-rebate envelopes that are everywhere in Canadian airports. The envelopes look official, but they're really from companies that process the request for you and often pocket 15 percent or more. Instead, go to the Canada Revenue Agency Web site (cra-arc.gc.ca), download the Application for Visitor Tax Refund, and then file the request yourself. Your check will arrive in a few weeks. Just remember to get your receipt stamped by the Canada Border Services Agency at the airport.

— Tony Reynolds
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Cruises
376303

Make your cabin homier by packing a small collapsible vase and a bouquet of flowers.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Planning
357270

If you arrive in a foreign city after banking hours (and you can't use an ATM), convert only the money you'll need for the night. Some exchange booths offer a less favorable rate after banks close and then switch back to competitive rates when banks reopen.

— Jim Citron
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Technology
420282

I used a well-known travel site to price tickets for a trip to Las Vegas. The flight I wanted was available, but I decided to wait to see if prices would come down. That flight stopped being listed after a week, and the next best flight kept getting more expensive. About five weeks later, I checked prices from a different PC. Whaddya know? The original flight was available, for $50 less than that next-best flight. That same evening I checked again from my PC. The flight I wanted was not available,so I deleted the cookies for the site and tried again. Voilà! The flight I wanted at the price I wanted. Moral of the story: Clean up your cookies—it could save you money!

— Kelly Malasics
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Cruises
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If your tablecloth is wet at dinner, you should prepare for rough seas. Restaurant staffers have been known to slightly dampen the tablecloth to keep plates and glasses from sliding.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Car Rentals
358263

Don't rush off the car-rental lot. Before driving away--especially in foreign countries where the controls might be unfamiliar-test the headlights and brakes, and look for the extra tire and changing tools. I once had a rental with malfunctioning brakes in Mexico and caused a minor accident--one that could certainly have been avoided had I checked them properly before leaving the lot.

— Doreen Stelton
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Technology
409274

Download the most up-to-date airline schedules from the individual airline Web sites to your PDA before you leave home. Should you encounter a delay or cancellation at the airport, you'll have all the information needed to find another flight quickly.

— Neal Green
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Hotels
446336

If you visit a country where you don't speak the language, pick up a book of your hotel's matches or one of its business cards; they usually have the hotel's name and address printed on them. Then when you're out sightseeing and want to return to your hotel, show the matchbook or card to the cabdriver if he doesn't speak English.

— Verne F. Noyes
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Planning
366293

You can suspend more than your newspaper when you're away. On several occasions, DirecTV has agreed to put my account on hold while I was traveling--without penalties, additional fees, reconnection charges, or the like. So, instead of a monthly bill of $65, mine gets prorated.

— Ed Clancy
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Technology
402281

Tell me I'm not alone: Almost every time I park my car at the airport, I have trouble finding it when I return. (I even reported my car stolen once after searching for hours, only to discover I was in the wrong lot!) I now use my cell phone to leave myself a message as to where I've parked my car.

— Perry Babel
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Packing
372258

For overnight flights, pack a few Oral B Brush-Ups in your carry-on. Before the plane lands, you can "brush" your teeth, leaving you refreshed and ready for the day!

— Janice Pruitt Winfrey
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Technology
387295

When overseas, I carry a "cheat sheet" that includes exchange rates and metric conversions. Currency conversions are available at oanda.com.

— Carol Vela
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Hotels
447353

Instead of dropping my laundry off at the front desk, I take a walk around the block and look for the nearest dry cleaner--probably the same one the hotel would've taken it to. By cutting out the middle man, I pay a quarter of what they charge at the hotel!

— Amy Paks
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Shopping
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It helps to have a calculator if you plan to do a lot of shopping in foreign markets. When you find something you like, hand the seller the calculator and ask him to enter his best price. It's easy to convert the response into dollars so you know what you're spending. If necessary, the calculator can be used to haggle, especially if you don't speak the language.

— Becky Sapp
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Safety
442302

A simple but effective anti-pickpocketing measure is to fasten a safety pin across the opening of the pants pocket on the inside. Leave enough room to pull your wallet out with some effort, but not enough for a quick hand to lift it in a second or two.

— Rusty Cartmill
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Planning
343247

Certified scuba divers who take prescription medications should keep a doctor's permission-to-dive statement with their certification cards. On a recent trip to Jamaica, I truthfully completed a lengthy questionnaire about my health, revealing that I have medically controlled high blood pressure and cholesterol. I was told I could not dive without a doctor's OK, even though I exercise regularly, am very fit, and have no other health issues. I now carry a letter from my doctor attesting to my fitness for scuba diving.

— Ginny Ganthner
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Dining
378274

Using restaurant.com, you can buy gift certificates good at eateries in your destination city, regularly snagging (in my experience) $25 certificates for as little as $5 to $8.The site is awesome, and it works as well for restaurant certificates in your own city and for obtaining gifts for friends.

— Derrick Tennant
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Planning
366274

Before exchanging foreign currency at the airport, find out if there's a departure tax. At the Bangkok airport, we were very upset- as were travelers around us- to find we had to pay a fee before continuing to our gate. Unfortunately, by that point everyone had cashed in their baht, so the options were a conveniently located ATM, a credit card, or an exchange booth with notably poor rates. When we described this incident to friends, they told us of a similar experience when trying to leave the Dominican Republic.

— Parisa Montazeri
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Technology
388301

For the most comprehensive information regarding travel by train or by ship, check out seat61.com. I've found that the site has all sorts of helpful advice for Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Middle East.

— Kay Bozich Owens
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Packing
384274

Ziploc now makes extra-large bags with handles. They're nearly two feet by two feet, and although Ziploc advertises them as being good for storage, they're also useful for traveling. Bring one on long shopping excursions and then use it as an extra carry-on for souvenirs on the way home.

— Meredith McCulloch
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Technology
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I'm a gadget freak, and I don't like to travel without things like my digital camera and iPod. On one trip, though, I put my camera down in a crowded restaurant and then forgot to put it back in my bag. By the time I remembered it, the camera was long gone. Now, I attach those kinds of items to my daypack with a lanyard. They're still easy to pull out and use, and they never get left behind.

— France Freeman
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Packing
340276

Pack a power strip and extension cord for your next cruise. Many cruise-ship cabins have only one out- let, but you'll definitely need more if you want to power up your laptop, iPod, cell phone, electric razor, hairdryer, or any other gadgets you bring on board.

— Jay Van Vechten
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Car Rentals
360265

I've saved lots of money using AAA. In addition to providing excellent roadside services (help with stalled cars, lost keys, etc.), most AAA chapters offer discounted tickets to Disney World and a preferred parking pass that enables you to grab specially designated spots near the entrances. It's a dollar saver, and you don't have to walk far or take the trolley in the parks!

— Judy Small
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Safety
447319

We all know to avoid drinking tap water in certain countries, but remember to forgo ice cubes, too. I've started bringing along two ice trays, which I fill with bottled water and freeze in my hotel room's mini-fridge.

— Christa Babel
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Family Travel
367271

Create an ID page for each of your children before you leave on a trip. In addition to vacation contact information (hotel name and phone number), include the child's name, a current photo, home address, phone, date of birth, Social Security number, passport number, hair color, eye color, height, any identifying marks, blood type, allergies, medications, doctor and insurance phone numbers and ID numbers, immunization schedule, and fingerprints (these don't change, so investing the time to have a set made is worth it). If the unspeakable happens, the ability to hand over instant, concise information to authorities may prove invaluable. Update it before every trip.

— Robin Flannery
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Loyalty Programs
368256

Sign up for guest programs at every hotel chain that offers one, even if you haven't stayed at that hotel before or think you may not travel enough to reap benefits from multiple stays. Some programs send coupons for discounted rooms or complimentary room upgrades just for being a member. After signing up for the Omni Hotels Select Guest program, I received a coupon that I was able to redeem for a room in Chicago for $80 per night.

— Allison Meyer
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Planning
386238

Before setting off on one of my many backpacking excursions, I head to Kinko's to rebind my guidebook. I replace the cover with a plain black or navy one. It costs about $6 and allows me to blend in much better while traveling. People see my new book as a journal, not a travel guide that labels me a tourist.

— Michelle Johnson

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