Paris: Montmartre

SEE Bouche de Métro Abbesses
The National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C., displays one of Hector Guimard's art nouveau Métro entrances, but the structures look better in their natural habitat-there are 22 still in existence. The entrance to the Abbesses Métro stop is one of the originals, identified by its glass "dragonfly" awning.

SEE Moulin Radet
83 rue Lepic, 01/46-06-84-77
The oft-painted and now-restored wooden Moulin Radet windmill doesn't twirl for tourists, but the famous facade still cuts a mean silhouette above the restaurant Au Moulin de la Galette. Seats in the brasserie's garden provide the best view.

EAT Chez Aïda
48 rue Polonceau, 01/42-52-06-92
A Senegalese institution in Paris's Goutte d'Or African quarter that serves yassa (grilled marinated chicken in a spicy onion sauce) and hard-to-find treats-including the heavenly jus de bouye, a juice extracted from the crushed fruit of baobab trees (known as monkey bread).

EAT La Chope du Château Rouge
40 rue de Clignancourt, 01/46-06-20-10
"The Red Castle Tankard" sports gilded friezes, ceiling moldings, and pretzeled neon tubes in a multitude of colors that cover much of the walls. The real draws at this bar are the satisfying portions of couscous mixed with beef, lamb, or vegetables-served free on Fridays and Saturdays from 8 p.m.

EAT L'Afghani
16 rue Paul-Albert, 01/42-51-08-72
The most economical and authentic Afghan restaurant in Paris, where you can eat such favorites as ashak (pockets of pasta stuffed with leeks and served with beans, ground beef, and garlic yogurt) and halwa (grilled patties of flour, almonds, raisins, and honey).

SPLURGE La Famille
41 rue des Trois-Frères, 01/42-52-11-12
Upscale dining amid sleek, minimalist decor and retro touches, such as a dented 1930s zinc bar and the late-1970s video game Vectrex, which you can play for free. A frequently changing menu can include adventuresome fare such as crème de foie gras infused with popcorn, and herbaceous chocolate cake flavored with basil.

DRINK Chez Camille
8 rue Ravignan, 01/46-06-05-78
A cozy, wood-fitted bar awash in yellow paint. Come early to snag one of the few tables on the terrace that have sweeping vistas of Paris rooftops. On the last Wednesday of the month, a DJ spins ambient tunes.

SHOP Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen
Métro Porte-de-Clignancourt, les-puces.com
With some 2,000 stands, this antiques flea market is reputed to be the world's largest-tables covered with everything from 19th-century microscopes and spectacles to 1950s film memorabilia sprawl across the leafy suburb. Avoid the gambling games set up on cardboard boxes; the man that keeps winning is an accomplice of the swindler. Closed Sun.

PLAY Cercle Clichy Montmartre
84 rue de Clichy, 01/48-78-32-85, academie-billard.com
Sixteen pool and billiards tables pack the front room at this stable-turned-game-hall. For a real underground feel, push the unmarked door in the back to enter a miniature, windowless casino and try your hand at card games. You can shoot, gamble, and drink until 6 a.m. Note: While the casino may feel secret, it's not seedy, and women are welcome. Be sure to bring ID as the casino is 18+ only.

PLAY Ciné 13 Théâtre
1 avenue Junot, 01/42-51-13-79, cine13.com
This anti-multiplex is fitted with coffee tables, couches, and a bar. No previews or commercials play before current indie and art house movie screenings. All films are shown in their original language, and many are in English. Ciné 13 also puts on plays and performances. Films from E9, plays from E19.

PLAY Le Divan du Monde
75 rue des Martyrs, 01/40-05-06-99, divandumonde.com
A bar/performance space that was once the haunt of Toulouse-Lautrec and Baudelaire. A 50-foot-long wall of flashing screens lights up the mezzanine bar, and the hall downstairs hosts a motley program of theater, dance, movies, and poetry readings. Cover includes all performances, but no drinks. From E10.

TIP

Free admission to museums If you happen to be in Paris on the first Sunday of the month, most national museums and monuments have free admission-you could save E13 at the Louvre and E9 at the Musée d'Orsay.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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Air Travel
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When looking for the lowest airfare, I've found that in some cases the best rates pop up when searching for one traveler instead of two. Recently, I wanted to buy one-way tickets from New York to Orlando for two people and came up with $87 per person. But when I selected one traveler, the fare dropped to $72.

— Yoshi Matsuda
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Hotels
426359

Finding the bathroom in the middle of the night in a strange hotel room or cruise-ship cabin can be a challenge. Leaving the bathroom light on seems wasteful and makes the room too bright for sleeping. My husband and I used to travel with a night-light, but we couldn't always find a convenient place to plug it in. We've recently discovered a better solution: plastic light sticks. They come in several glow-in-the- dark colors and are activated by bending the tube into a circle and connecting the ends. Each evening, we hook one of the loops over the bathroom-door handle, where it provides a gentle glow through the night.

— Carol Attar
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Planning
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Some people think that traveler's checks aren't necessary anymore, but they really can be useful in a variety of situations. My ATM card wouldn't work on Easter Island, where most restaurants did not accept credit cards and wanted to be paid in pesos. Luckily, our hotel cashed my traveler's checks and gave me the pesos I needed. On Dominica, my purse was stolen. But because I had traveler's checks stashed away in my luggage, the vacation wasn't ruined. I always travel with what I call the "trusty four": American dollars (lots of ones and fives divided up and hidden in several locations), traveler's checks, an ATM card, and a credit card.

— Jeanette Cantwell
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Packing
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If you plan to travel to a less-developed country, pack an extra suitcase with hand-me-downs of all sizes. Housekeepers and other resort workers make so little money that the clothes are greatly appreciated. On your way home, you can use that empty suitcase for souvenirs.

— Rebecca Oberg
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Packing
356298

I used to lug around a clothes steamer and adapter to stay wrinkle-free while on the road, but I've since opted for something more low-tech. I now travel with a Platypus collapsible bottle and a spray bottle head. After checking into my hotel, I immediately hang my clothes and give them a spritz with water from the spray bottle. After several hours, the wrinkles fall out, and the clothing is dry and ready to wear.

— Dr. Cornelia Cho
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Dining
347250

While traveling abroad, I've frequently encountered some appallingly bad (and often very funny) English translations of menus. In those cases, I simply offered to clean up the translations in exchange for a meal. This has worked quite a few times.

— William Boyle
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Packing
385289

No longer do the many key chains I get as advertising languish in bureau drawers. I attach one or two at the ends of my luggage zippers. They make it easier to work the zippers and help me identify my luggage on airport carousels.

— Marie J. Kilker
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Dining
359275

By the time I got home from my first trip to Europe in 1963, I'd collected menus from several restaurants I liked. I threw them into a box. In 1988, I returned to Europe and went to the Middle East. Once again, I picked up a few menus. This time I had them all framed and they now hang in my kitchen. Since then, I've added to the collection. It's fun looking at the prices and remembering the good times—plus they make great conversation pieces when I have a party.

— Jerri Moore
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Packing
383242

I reverse the batteries in my portable CD player before packing it in my suitcase or backpack, in case it's accidentally turned on when my bag is jostled. I came up with the idea after arriving at my destination to find that the brand-new batteries I'd put into my Walkman were dead.

— Chris Giaimo
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Air Travel
380276

When you change your clocks back or forward, be sure to check the expiration date on all your frequent-flier miles. This way they're checked twice a year. We overlooked one of the many accounts in our household and lost a free ticket when the miles expired.

— Lynda Self
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Packing
391284

Save the flip-flops you're given at the nail salon after a pedicure. They make great shower shoes. They're lightweight and dry quickly, and you can throw them away at the end of your trip.

— Carmen Shirkey
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Packing
351259

Frequent fliers should consider noise-cancellation headphones. They have a built-in device that "hears" low-frequency sound just before you do and generates a sound wave that cancels it out. Several manufacturers make them, ranging in price from $40 to $300 or so.

— Ed Wilhite
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Hotels
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If you're traveling solo and your room has a double bed, sleep on the side farthest from the phone. It's slept on less frequently and is therefore more comfortable.

— Ruth Schnur
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Technology
377292

Priceline was a total pig in a poke for me, so I never used the web site, until I found out about biddingfortravel.com. This helpful Web site gives potential bidders an idea of prices that are being accepted (and declined) on priceline.com for particular dates and properties (or airfares or car rentals). I got the Hyatt Regency Miami for $35 per night because of this!

— C. Sue Mecham
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Air Travel
376254

On a Northwest flight from Wichita to Cleveland, a piece of my luggage was delivered more than a day after I arrived. In the meantime, I had to buy some replacement items. Save your receipts! I turned in the receipts when I checked in for the return flight, and the ticket agent issued me a $50 check.(Northwest allows up to $50 in interim expenses for the first 24 hours, and $25 for each day afterward, with a maximum reimbursement of $150.)

— Phil Richard
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Family Travel
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When traveling with my kids, I bring a Ziploc bag that includes four things: Benadryl, children's ibuprofen, one of those little medicine cups, and a thermometer. This all-purpose kit will help with minor ailments, or treat a more serious flu until you can get to a doctor. Best of all, it saves Dad from driving around at 2 a.m. looking for an all-night pharmacy.

— Heather Crow
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Air Travel
365259

I was booking tickets online for an upcoming flight to Europe from the East Coast. One particularly attractive fare was offered on a U.S. airline as well as on its foreign "partner airline." Same plane, same flight, same base price. But it was more than $100 cheaper per ticket to book with the foreign airline versus the U.S.one. We saved more than $400 for four tickets, but we'll be on the same plane!

— Lori Uhl
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Family Travel
380283

Ever since my children were small, I've carried recent, wallet-size pictures of them when we all go on vacation, in case we get separated. Now that they are teenagers and traveling with friends' families, too, I send pictures for the other family to bring along with them. I also write my telephone numbers on the back of the pictures so they know where to reach me in an emergency.

— Ruth Ann Newsum
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Air Travel
384272

Check fares periodically after booking your airfare. The airline may have a sale, and buying new tickets could save you money, even after you pay the change penalty. My wife and I used Travelocity's Fare Finder to pocket $187 each on a recent trip from Seattle to New York City, simply by re-ticketing.

— Doug Rittenhouse
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Packing
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If you know you'll be cooking while on vacation, bring along small amounts of the spices you need for your favorite recipes. You'll save by not buying large containers of spices.

— Joan Phillips
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Packing
381278

Dry-cleaning bags stop clothes from wrinkling. Slide each garment into its own bag (leave the hanger at home) and place them flat on your bed, one on top of another. Then carefully fold the entire stack to fit it in your suitcase. Once you get to your hotel, hang everything up as soon as you can. You'll never unpack a suitcase of wrinkled clothes again.

— Claudette Christman
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Planning
368293

You can suspend more than your newspaper when you're away. On several occasions, DirecTV has agreed to put my account on hold while I was traveling--without penalties, additional fees, reconnection charges, or the like. So, instead of a monthly bill of $65, mine gets prorated.

— Ed Clancy
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Planning
368243

Know your PINs! My husband and I left home with very little cash on us, and instead of stopping to get money at the airport, my husband--ever the procrastinator--decided to wait until we got to Cancún to use his ATM card. Guess what? It didn't work in any of the machines. And although he had several credit cards for cash advances, he didn't know the PINs off the top of his head. We charged everything we could during our stay, but most of the markets don't take credit cards. Needless to say, I didn't come home with a lot of souvenirs.

— CaSandra Knight
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Planning
361275

I live in coastal Florida, where the electricity sometimes goes out during violent storms. Before a trip, I place a few ice cubes in a plastic bag and put the bag in the freezer. If the ice has melted and refrozen by the time I get home, I'll know we've had a power outage and that any food left in the refrigerator may be unsafe to consume.

— Brigitte Emick
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Packing
372244

The best carry-on bag that I've found is a gardener's tote. It has lots of pockets on the outside and room inside for a medium-size purse, yet it's small enough to sit comfortably at my feet on a bus or plane.

— Sheila Monk
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Family Travel
369271

Create an ID page for each of your children before you leave on a trip. In addition to vacation contact information (hotel name and phone number), include the child's name, a current photo, home address, phone, date of birth, Social Security number, passport number, hair color, eye color, height, any identifying marks, blood type, allergies, medications, doctor and insurance phone numbers and ID numbers, immunization schedule, and fingerprints (these don't change, so investing the time to have a set made is worth it). If the unspeakable happens, the ability to hand over instant, concise information to authorities may prove invaluable. Update it before every trip.

— Robin Flannery
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Shopping
380260

Therm-a-Rest's Compressible Pillow is perfect for the plane. It comes in three sizes, packs smaller and expands bigger than any other pillow, and is machine washable. Whenever I pull mine out of my carry-on, I get jealous stares: People always ask where they can get one. REI sells the pillows for $18 to $25, depending on the size (rei.com).

— Sheila Lauber
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Cruises
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If you even manage to get a cell signal while at sea, your roaming charges will be outrageous. To communicate with your cabinmates, leave Post-it Notes on your door detailing where you'll be throughout the day.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Packing
351291

When I go on a trip that requires me to accessorize a number of outfits, I buy little Ziploc bags and place the appropriate jewelry/panty hose/scarf inside. Then I punch a hole just big enough to slide the bag over the outfit's hanger. This way, my panty hose stay snag-free and my jewelry never gets misplaced.

— Gina Beyer
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Safety
443315

Traveling to non-English-speaking countries can be daunting for people with food allergies. Find someone fluent in the local language to write out what you are allergic to, the seriousness of the allergy (we had a friend include the phrase "this could kill me"), and what to do if you fall ill.

— M. Thompson and K.A. Fares Bannon

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